...so far I've noticed two point drop in the temp gauge next i intend on getting a lower temp thermostat...doing this could result in furthure advanced spark timing and increased torque...especially when very hot...more to come...BTW i bought a 1.38 kgf/cm2 19.6 p.s.i over the stock 1.1/ 15.2 p.s.i.

 

so how does this work. do you just flush the radiator then put water in then redline water wetter and get a Highpressure radiator cap?

I do know water transfers heat better than the radiator fluid. so does the water wetter basically keep it from freezing?

 

no,acctually water wetter doesnt effect the frezzing point of water,so you do want to maintain atleast 20% water/antifreeze...add one 13.99 jar of redline water wetter increases the -oiling point of the coolant ,has less slipperyness see the www.redlineoil.com on this, it's detailed... also the cap furthure increases the -oiling point ... head temps can -e dropped as much as 45*... decreasing the likelyhood that the ecu reduces spark timing to compensate for any pre detonation that can result from high head temps....

 

If an additive to a cars coolant actually brings the operating temperature down, no matter how the additive works, this would indicate that the cooling system is not capable of cooling the engine properly to begin with. The thermostat is going to attempt to keep the coolant at a specific temperature, no matter what the coolant consists of. So, forgoing the possibility that Acura installed inadequate cooling systems in our cars, how exactly does this additive reduce the tempaerture at which your engine operates? It should not. Where this stuff may come in handy is for situations where the engine needs to shed heat quickly as in quick acceleration, but again -under normal operating conditions the temperature of the coolant should not change just because you alter the consistency of the coolant.

What this stuff does is essentially reduces the amount of surface tension between the coolant and the heat transferring surfaces inside the engine, thus allowing heat to pass more efficiently from the hot surface to the collant. This would be beneficial in the case of an aftermarket super-charger, where the engine would be generating much more heat, and much quicker than had been taken into consideration in the design process. It does not alter the operation of the thermostat however, so the temperature of the coolant should not be affected.

Also, why would it seem like a good idea to do this? Our engines are designed by very knowledgable people to operate at a specific temperature for efficienty, longevity, and performance reasons. Why is it that you would think lowering the operating temperature of your engine is a good idea no matter what you read on www.redlineoil.com ? Lowering the operating temperature of an engine is not a new idea, nor is it a good one.

Further, how is it that you plan on advancing the spark? I haven't heard of this yet as a mod. Or will the ECU do this automatically? And how far will the ECU allow the spark to be advanced -despite the temperature of the engine?

I have used Water-Wetter in my previous car, and noticed no difference. I do however have a friend who drags a '00 SS and swears by the stuff, though he uses an all-water cooling system and specialized radiator.

In my opinion, without modifications as substantial as a super-charger, I think this stuff is the auto equivalent to snake oil.

my .02

 

one ,why didnt these genious engineers add headers and get and extra 30 hp, honda does not attempte to maximize our car they attempt to achieve a happy medium...as far as spark advance first yes AEM has a device all be it an exspensive one to do this ,BUT, i was speaking of our ECU it will retard timing to avoid detonation...reduced head temps will result in furthuring spark advance ...in addition i have added a high pressure cap and intend on getting a lower temp thermo...our car is a pretty worked engine from the factory...and as you see by certain failures like the tranny i dont think every area has been maximized 6.9k redline and 10:5 compression i dont know ,you do the math...heat kills

 

Aeon,

IMHO, your logic is flawed.

Thermostats are either on or off at or above a given temperature. It's purely a mechanical device to my knowledge. So, if the thermostat is set to 240 degrees, and the engine stays at 239 degrees for whatever reason, the thermostat will not open. Now, I don't necessarily see the benefit to not using the cooling system of the car, but to each their own - maybe less mechanical wear on the water pump?

If the cooling system is more efficient, it stands to reason that it should last longer due to not having to work as hard.

Also, in FL and TX and other southern states (latitude-wise), I can see where additional efficiency is a good thing.

Also remember your laws of thermodynamics. Specific heat is the measure of a fluid to contain a number of joules per unit of volume. So, all you're doing is increase the heat-carrying potential of the coolant.

 

...not sure what you mean by this???but if you're referring to the lower temp thermo...it's just the oppisite i intend to use it more by making it engae at a lower temp....also AEON the cooling system my attempt to maintain a certain temprature but there can still be hot spots where spot boiling can occur...

 

I have read that the water wetter does work to reduce temps. Race cars use this, & it's the only one of those kinds of additives that have been proven to work. The use of a lower thermostat has always been a way to increase HP a little. I did it in my old ford truck. Howerver nowdays, the computers, & sensors adjust those things even further. On my 2000 Chrysler I had, It came with a 180 degree one. I swapped it out to a 170 degree one, & didn't see any difference. I'm not sure off hand what temp the factory one is. I really don't think changing it would have any effect.

 

Water has the highest heat capacity/heat transfer ability of fluids (at least that’s the info I have). When you talk about improved efficiency of the cooling system, I could see how there would be a possibility of the electric fans not turning on as often (lower duty cycle), but the parasitic drag from the water pump should remain reasonably constant. The water just avoids being pumped through the cooling coils of the radiator and is bypassed.

The idea of the water wetter is 2-fold:

1. Insure a lower thermal resistance between the cylinder walls and the heat transport fluid (water, water + water wetter, water + coolant, or water + coolant + water wetter). If the water wetter is added, there is a possibility of reducing the cylinder wall temperatures even though the thermostat will maintain a fixed temperature.

2. The heat capacity issues are related to reducing the percentage of "protective" coolant. The heat capacity is maximal with pure water, but there is no anti-freeze protection, wear protection, corrosion protection, lubrication, and other benefits from a proper factory recommended coolant or water/coolant mix.

So, in one case, if someone adds the water wetter with only a minimal change in water-to-coolant ratio (meaning the original thermal capacity is maintained) then some additional protection may be possible (who knows for a fact) and there is a good chance that "better" cylinder wall temperatures can be maintained.

If the water/coolant mix IS changed to incorporate MORE water, then the heat-capacity is increased and the Redline people make a claim that their product is a substitute for the above mentioned "protective" and anti-freeze properties of the factory (or other) coolant.

Finally, a over-cool cylinder wall CAN increase pollution by causing the walls of the combustion front to "connect" with cylinder walls that are too cool and cause a quenching action!

 

just to clarify the redline doesnt not change the freezing point ...it is not an anti freeze substitute

 

basically water wetter works very well and running at a lower temp is be beneficial for any ride. feels like dejavu for some reason.

 

Yes, you are quite correct, the line (in my posting) "anti-freeze properties of the factory..." should be changed to "anti-corrosion properties of the factory..."

 

I have used it with the notoriously hot running BMW motors and had good luck.

For whatever reason, the Nissans, Acuras, and Toyotas in the family have seemed to be better designed to resist overheating in very hot weather in slow traffic (It is not as if we tried every model, but the Bimmer's I worked on or had have needed their cooling systems in "perfect" shape and anytime I would need a new radiator, I would be putting in higher density versions with all of the trimings.)


I'm not sure about YOUR mix, but I am going to remove just enough coolant to put in a single bottle of Water Wetter in my CLS. (Just my opinion -- no more)