New plugs
I used a 10mm and 14mm deep socket, possibly a socket extension and a standard/flat screwdriver.
Remove fancy engine cover, pull hard. Held on by rubber grommets.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ignition coil in place, pull the coil free of the spark plug. Then, with the screwdriver, pry the wire harness free of the coil, remove coil from hole.
with the 14mm socket and extension, remove the spark plug. It could be very tight to the cylinder head; it will give way with enough pressure/force. I do not have a 14mm spark plug socket. To keep the spark plug in the socket, I placed a piece of electrical tape wrapped over the edge of the socket to hold the spark plug, worked for me.
When all 4 are replaced in the reverse order, place engine cover back in place, confirm the engine starts.
Remove fancy engine cover, pull hard. Held on by rubber grommets.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ignition coil in place, pull the coil free of the spark plug. Then, with the screwdriver, pry the wire harness free of the coil, remove coil from hole.
with the 14mm socket and extension, remove the spark plug. It could be very tight to the cylinder head; it will give way with enough pressure/force. I do not have a 14mm spark plug socket. To keep the spark plug in the socket, I placed a piece of electrical tape wrapped over the edge of the socket to hold the spark plug, worked for me.
When all 4 are replaced in the reverse order, place engine cover back in place, confirm the engine starts.
I used a 10mm and 14mm deep socket, possibly a socket extension and a standard/flat screwdriver.
Remove fancy engine cover, pull hard. Held on by rubber grommets.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ignition coil in place, pull the coil free of the spark plug. Then, with the screwdriver, pry the wire harness free of the coil, remove coil from hole.
with the 14mm socket and extension, remove the spark plug. It could be very tight to the cylinder head; it will give way with enough pressure/force. I do not have a 14mm spark plug socket. To keep the spark plug in the socket, I placed a piece of electrical tape wrapped over the edge of the socket to hold the spark plug, worked for me.
When all 4 are replaced in the reverse order, place engine cover back in place, confirm the engine starts.
Remove fancy engine cover, pull hard. Held on by rubber grommets.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the ignition coil in place, pull the coil free of the spark plug. Then, with the screwdriver, pry the wire harness free of the coil, remove coil from hole.
with the 14mm socket and extension, remove the spark plug. It could be very tight to the cylinder head; it will give way with enough pressure/force. I do not have a 14mm spark plug socket. To keep the spark plug in the socket, I placed a piece of electrical tape wrapped over the edge of the socket to hold the spark plug, worked for me.
When all 4 are replaced in the reverse order, place engine cover back in place, confirm the engine starts.
Trending Topics
Check the thread at Important torque specs. You might also want to check the webpage for the actual plug manufacturer. They often have a spec slightly higher and often provide two values depending on material (cast iron or aluminum).
Last edited by John from PA; Oct 11, 2024 at 02:38 PM.
Instead of a regular 14mm deep socket, you can also get a 14mm spark plug socket. Basically the same thing, but it has a rubber o-ring that creates some suction so you don't risk losing the plug when you pull the socket out.
NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
Source can be found at 5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs
I have personally never used anti seize or anything else to plugs, and never had any issue with removing them post-install. The last thing you want is a spark plug backing out while the engine is running. Just be extra careful when installing them to make sure you don't cross threads, and use a torque wrench to ensure they're tightened to the proper spec.
Never put anything on threads, you don’t need to. Maybe just some dielectric grease on boots.
ive never ever torqued a spark plug, a little passed hand tight is all you need.
i recently put plugs in the Rdx because it was close to 100k and used NGK 95660
those are similar if not the same as the OEM plug and at $60 are a fraction of the cost of the Honda/Acura branded OEM NgK
ive never ever torqued a spark plug, a little passed hand tight is all you need.
i recently put plugs in the Rdx because it was close to 100k and used NGK 95660
those are similar if not the same as the OEM plug and at $60 are a fraction of the cost of the Honda/Acura branded OEM NgK
0.031 gap for the 92411 vs 0.030 gap for the 95660.
The 92411 is "projection." The 95660 is "extended projection" so it sticks a bit further beyond the threads.
The 92411 has a fine wire ground electrode, whereas the 95660 has a "standard" ground electrode.
92411 costs $16.31 per plug directly from NGK, vs. $13.28 for the 95660, but for some reason only the 92411 gets the free shipping by NGK, so cost works out about the same.
Both types are rated for 100k miles.
I would just go with the orignals (NGK 92411 DILKAR8P8SY), but I expect that other one to work the same. I do wonder about that "extended projection," and whether they have the same reach (number of threads).
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-92411-dilkar...ium-spark-plug
That plug is used in the 1.5 and 2.0 motors and looking at them side by side with the old OEM plug, they were essentially the same.
I meant savings over purchasing the Honda branded NGK plug which is like $45 or something outrageous.
I meant savings over purchasing the Honda branded NGK plug which is like $45 or something outrageous.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bbsitum
2G TL (1999-2003)
5
Apr 2, 2020 05:48 PM
Jamesmoore
2G TL (1999-2003)
3
Oct 3, 2005 05:05 PM










