Have not posted in a while.... so some updates
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Have not posted in a while.... so some updates
I've been around the board quite sparingly as of late - my inlaws are visiting and I plan on selling my house as well.
Anyways, the car is running quite well. I drive it quite calmly most of the time. No problems encountered so far. I do run synthetic oil 5W-20 and don't experience any oil-loss over 3K miles intervals (there HAS to be some oil-loss, but I can't seem to notice anything even in the 1/4-quart range). I have done about 7K miles on this turbo kit ranging from very hard driving to highway-only driving and the car loves both. No leaks, have not had to re-tighten anything. Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.
I did not have success with the adjustable boost regulator, so I will be putting on a 7.25psi spring shortly. Have not tuned the E-manage since my last dyno and I see AFR's in the 10.8 to 12.0 range under WOT (it varies based on outside temp, ECT, altitude etc.). I should check my plugs soon and will do so before increasing the boost.
Brakes have gone from bad to worse so I think a set of cross-drilled rotors and some good brake pads are needed - shall do so when I get the time.
We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.
Oh yes, I am just about to purchase a J32A2 engine block and hence will begin building a hefty botton-end capable of 1000hp. I should have everything done by the end of 2005... so expect a 700-800whp dyno at that time I think 6x 440cc injectors and 2 x 750cc secondary injectors should be enough for fuel at 70psi.
Other than that... the car loves the cold temps out here right now and the next item on the list is trying the 7.25psi and getting a dyno done - it will also give me an indication of how the motor is doing.
Anyways, the car is running quite well. I drive it quite calmly most of the time. No problems encountered so far. I do run synthetic oil 5W-20 and don't experience any oil-loss over 3K miles intervals (there HAS to be some oil-loss, but I can't seem to notice anything even in the 1/4-quart range). I have done about 7K miles on this turbo kit ranging from very hard driving to highway-only driving and the car loves both. No leaks, have not had to re-tighten anything. Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.
I did not have success with the adjustable boost regulator, so I will be putting on a 7.25psi spring shortly. Have not tuned the E-manage since my last dyno and I see AFR's in the 10.8 to 12.0 range under WOT (it varies based on outside temp, ECT, altitude etc.). I should check my plugs soon and will do so before increasing the boost.
Brakes have gone from bad to worse so I think a set of cross-drilled rotors and some good brake pads are needed - shall do so when I get the time.
We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.
Oh yes, I am just about to purchase a J32A2 engine block and hence will begin building a hefty botton-end capable of 1000hp. I should have everything done by the end of 2005... so expect a 700-800whp dyno at that time I think 6x 440cc injectors and 2 x 750cc secondary injectors should be enough for fuel at 70psi.
Other than that... the car loves the cold temps out here right now and the next item on the list is trying the 7.25psi and getting a dyno done - it will also give me an indication of how the motor is doing.
#2
Senior Moderator
how about you work a trip to the drag strip into your busy schedule.
#5
///M POWER
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
No tires, no point!!
glad to hear everything is going ok, better work on a rwd conversion 700-800 whp to the front wheels would almost be pointless power
#6
?!?
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.
you dont need a test car for extended periods of time do you? my car has sat in my garage for the past 3 months, so there is no demand for use...you can keep it for a loooooong time
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#8
TQ > MPG
Thats pretty cool, gladto see its running reliably. 400hp is nothing to sneeze at, especially in an engine orginally making almost half that.
And I'd borrow you my dr's, but you really need some MT's to harness your amount of powah.
And I'd borrow you my dr's, but you really need some MT's to harness your amount of powah.
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jtkz13
Thats pretty cool, gladto see its running reliably. 400hp is nothing to sneeze at, especially in an engine orginally making almost half that.
And I'd borrow you my dr's, but you really need some MT's to harness your amount of powah.
And I'd borrow you my dr's, but you really need some MT's to harness your amount of powah.
#13
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
I've been around the board quite sparingly as of late - my inlaws are visiting and I plan on selling my house as well.
Anyways, the car is running quite well. I drive it quite calmly most of the time. No problems encountered so far. I do run synthetic oil 5W-20 and don't experience any oil-loss over 3K miles intervals (there HAS to be some oil-loss, but I can't seem to notice anything even in the 1/4-quart range). I have done about 7K miles on this turbo kit ranging from very hard driving to highway-only driving and the car loves both. No leaks, have not had to re-tighten anything. Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.
I did not have success with the adjustable boost regulator, so I will be putting on a 7.25psi spring shortly. Have not tuned the E-manage since my last dyno and I see AFR's in the 10.8 to 12.0 range under WOT (it varies based on outside temp, ECT, altitude etc.). I should check my plugs soon and will do so before increasing the boost.
Brakes have gone from bad to worse so I think a set of cross-drilled rotors and some good brake pads are needed - shall do so when I get the time.
We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.
Oh yes, I am just about to purchase a J32A2 engine block and hence will begin building a hefty botton-end capable of 1000hp. I should have everything done by the end of 2005... so expect a 700-800whp dyno at that time I think 6x 440cc injectors and 2 x 750cc secondary injectors should be enough for fuel at 70psi.
Other than that... the car loves the cold temps out here right now and the next item on the list is trying the 7.25psi and getting a dyno done - it will also give me an indication of how the motor is doing.
Anyways, the car is running quite well. I drive it quite calmly most of the time. No problems encountered so far. I do run synthetic oil 5W-20 and don't experience any oil-loss over 3K miles intervals (there HAS to be some oil-loss, but I can't seem to notice anything even in the 1/4-quart range). I have done about 7K miles on this turbo kit ranging from very hard driving to highway-only driving and the car loves both. No leaks, have not had to re-tighten anything. Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.
I did not have success with the adjustable boost regulator, so I will be putting on a 7.25psi spring shortly. Have not tuned the E-manage since my last dyno and I see AFR's in the 10.8 to 12.0 range under WOT (it varies based on outside temp, ECT, altitude etc.). I should check my plugs soon and will do so before increasing the boost.
Brakes have gone from bad to worse so I think a set of cross-drilled rotors and some good brake pads are needed - shall do so when I get the time.
We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.
Oh yes, I am just about to purchase a J32A2 engine block and hence will begin building a hefty botton-end capable of 1000hp. I should have everything done by the end of 2005... so expect a 700-800whp dyno at that time I think 6x 440cc injectors and 2 x 750cc secondary injectors should be enough for fuel at 70psi.
Other than that... the car loves the cold temps out here right now and the next item on the list is trying the 7.25psi and getting a dyno done - it will also give me an indication of how the motor is doing.
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The block will be sleeved (Benson probably) and I most likeley will not go 3.5L - I think the motor will be weaker under boost than a 3.2L given the same strength internals
#15
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
The block will be sleeved (Benson probably) and I most likeley will not go 3.5L - I think the motor will be weaker under boost than a 3.2L given the same strength internals
why do yo think the 3.5 would be weaker? essentially the same block between the j32 to j35, the only difference i have seen is a kidney shaped oil return on the 03-04 RDJ blocks, where as the 01-02 PGE blocks are identical to the j32. I will say that the RDJ block comes with a much stouter crank than the PGE and for some reason some RDJ blocks come with forged rods. who do you think will make you aftermarket rods?
Never heard of Benson. are they in cali?
#17
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yup, Benson is in So Cal - they have been working on Honda motors for a long while now. There are probably equivalent places out there... much more of a choice now; I need to do some research.
I need to clarify: A J35 conversion is weaker at high RPMs due to the rod ratio - doesn't matter how strong your rods are... if you are at 7-8K RPMs you had better have a short(er) stroke! I don't want to do a fully custom crank/rod/piston combination, in which case I could probably get 3.5-3.7 liters and a good combination to make power all over the band. In any case, I need to do more research first - shouldn't make any conclusions now.
Crower can make rods for me, JE/Arias can make pistons. Maintaining the same internal geometries is important to me because I don't want to experiment too much. I could probably bore it out to a 3.3 or 3.4 liter quite easily.
Thanks for your insight... I'll probably ping you when I am deciding!
I need to clarify: A J35 conversion is weaker at high RPMs due to the rod ratio - doesn't matter how strong your rods are... if you are at 7-8K RPMs you had better have a short(er) stroke! I don't want to do a fully custom crank/rod/piston combination, in which case I could probably get 3.5-3.7 liters and a good combination to make power all over the band. In any case, I need to do more research first - shouldn't make any conclusions now.
Crower can make rods for me, JE/Arias can make pistons. Maintaining the same internal geometries is important to me because I don't want to experiment too much. I could probably bore it out to a 3.3 or 3.4 liter quite easily.
Thanks for your insight... I'll probably ping you when I am deciding!
#18
still a Masshole
damn allmotor! Glad to hear things are going well with the car! Good Luck selling the house and keep us posted on all your projects. Oh and I need a kill story soon so go get on it!
#20
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.
#22
ex 6 Speed owner :(
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FYI, the GT35R will only be able to support up to about 600hp (crank). You may have to step up to the next size (GT42R ---> 1000hp) I am leaving for France tomorrow... didn't have time to send you the 7.25psi spring yet, sorry. I'll get it to you when I'm back on the 21st...
#26
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
No tires, no point!!
#27
Safety Car
Thread Starter
It will definateley have more loss than a 6spd kit for two reasons:
(i) Inherent losses in the auto tranny are greater
(ii) The exhaust plumbing won't be as big as the 6spd due to space constraints
I'd venture to say 360-370whp at 6'ish psi, but this car will be pushing 7.5psi, so I'd say 400+whp (the tranny has been upgraded)
(i) Inherent losses in the auto tranny are greater
(ii) The exhaust plumbing won't be as big as the 6spd due to space constraints
I'd venture to say 360-370whp at 6'ish psi, but this car will be pushing 7.5psi, so I'd say 400+whp (the tranny has been upgraded)
#28
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Yup, Benson is in So Cal - they have been working on Honda motors for a long while now. There are probably equivalent places out there... much more of a choice now; I need to do some research.
I need to clarify: A J35 conversion is weaker at high RPMs due to the rod ratio - doesn't matter how strong your rods are... if you are at 7-8K RPMs you had better have a short(er) stroke! I don't want to do a fully custom crank/rod/piston combination, in which case I could probably get 3.5-3.7 liters and a good combination to make power all over the band. In any case, I need to do more research first - shouldn't make any conclusions now.
Crower can make rods for me, JE/Arias can make pistons. Maintaining the same internal geometries is important to me because I don't want to experiment too much. I could probably bore it out to a 3.3 or 3.4 liter quite easily.
Thanks for your insight... I'll probably ping you when I am deciding!
I need to clarify: A J35 conversion is weaker at high RPMs due to the rod ratio - doesn't matter how strong your rods are... if you are at 7-8K RPMs you had better have a short(er) stroke! I don't want to do a fully custom crank/rod/piston combination, in which case I could probably get 3.5-3.7 liters and a good combination to make power all over the band. In any case, I need to do more research first - shouldn't make any conclusions now.
Crower can make rods for me, JE/Arias can make pistons. Maintaining the same internal geometries is important to me because I don't want to experiment too much. I could probably bore it out to a 3.3 or 3.4 liter quite easily.
Thanks for your insight... I'll probably ping you when I am deciding!
as to rods, look to Pauter, I received a set from them last week in the chrome moly materiel. they are awesome looking and will do the trick. cost 1060.00.
JE will make my pistons, in the works now.
head gasket situation sucks. I spoke with a rep at Cometic, sent him some specs, they sit down every monday and review requests for custom gaskets, and he told me that they have to make a production run of 150 head gaskets at around 80.00 a peice. do the math, it's not pretty. after trying to negotiate him down on that number without sucess, i told him to pack sand, but in a nicer way. perhaps you and several people on this board if they are serious about this motor, make inquiries into headgaskets from Cometic, it may help push our cause with them to make them. I will even provide them a block and head for fitmit.
everything that i am doing to this motor is top notch, and the only weak link in my opinion is the headgasket. do a search on Sand Buggies. there is one or two guys in the sand rail business that use the j32/35, with turbo, its really cool too, and he uses the stock head gasket. I was told by him that one guy that he built a motor for has pushed his boost to 27 psi, but doesn't recommend it, apparently that motor routinley see's in the mid 20's often.
I have no choice but to go with the stock headgasket with copper o ring on the deck. Stud everything, I have specs on those when you need them.
as for boring it out, don't bother, you can get some but the spacing between the cylnders is very tight.
Pictures will be posted when i get the block for alll you nay-sayers.
#30
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Nice! I know Ben from AEBS (from the Group 5 days in San Diego). I have read about their sleeve design - PM me what you paid for it and I'll ping them. Did you order the rods/pistons via them or directly from the manufacturer?
#31
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Nice! I know Ben from AEBS (from the Group 5 days in San Diego). I have read about their sleeve design - PM me what you paid for it and I'll ping them. Did you order the rods/pistons via them or directly from the manufacturer?
as for the pistons, i'm waiting for the block before i order them. I want to check the bore size and have the pistons made to fit for any descripancies that is probabley inherent with new sleeves.
PM sent.
#35
Safety Car
Thread Starter
We already have one (hence the reason the project started)... beyond that I am not sure. It will be based on how difficult it ends up being - manifold fabrication is very difficult given the space constraints of the auto tranny.
#36
I'm getting so GIDDY right now and I don't even own a CL/TL! Good luck guys! By the way, I heard some good things about Pauter Rods and as far as pistons go CP's are pretty damn good as well! Oh man can't WAIT!! All we need now is a standalone! Just imagine the possibilities!
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