Have not posted in a while.... so some updates

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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 06:54 PM
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Have not posted in a while.... so some updates

I've been around the board quite sparingly as of late - my inlaws are visiting and I plan on selling my house as well.

Anyways, the car is running quite well. I drive it quite calmly most of the time. No problems encountered so far. I do run synthetic oil 5W-20 and don't experience any oil-loss over 3K miles intervals (there HAS to be some oil-loss, but I can't seem to notice anything even in the 1/4-quart range). I have done about 7K miles on this turbo kit ranging from very hard driving to highway-only driving and the car loves both. No leaks, have not had to re-tighten anything. Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.

I did not have success with the adjustable boost regulator, so I will be putting on a 7.25psi spring shortly. Have not tuned the E-manage since my last dyno and I see AFR's in the 10.8 to 12.0 range under WOT (it varies based on outside temp, ECT, altitude etc.). I should check my plugs soon and will do so before increasing the boost.

Brakes have gone from bad to worse so I think a set of cross-drilled rotors and some good brake pads are needed - shall do so when I get the time.

We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.

Oh yes, I am just about to purchase a J32A2 engine block and hence will begin building a hefty botton-end capable of 1000hp. I should have everything done by the end of 2005... so expect a 700-800whp dyno at that time I think 6x 440cc injectors and 2 x 750cc secondary injectors should be enough for fuel at 70psi.

Other than that... the car loves the cold temps out here right now and the next item on the list is trying the 7.25psi and getting a dyno done - it will also give me an indication of how the motor is doing.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 06:57 PM
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how about you work a trip to the drag strip into your busy schedule.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mattg
how about you work a trip to the drag strip into your busy schedule.
No tires, no point!!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:01 PM
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Oh yeah, if anyone wants to buy a very nice home in a prime woodland hills location, pm me...
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
No tires, no point!!
if steve or matt breaks your 12.9 you'll be there in a hurry

glad to hear everything is going ok, better work on a rwd conversion 700-800 whp to the front wheels would almost be pointless power
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.

you dont need a test car for extended periods of time do you? my car has sat in my garage for the past 3 months, so there is no demand for use...you can keep it for a loooooong time
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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did you say.....auto?
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:16 PM
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Thats pretty cool, gladto see its running reliably. 400hp is nothing to sneeze at, especially in an engine orginally making almost half that.

And I'd borrow you my dr's, but you really need some MT's to harness your amount of powah.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by jtkz13
Thats pretty cool, gladto see its running reliably. 400hp is nothing to sneeze at, especially in an engine orginally making almost half that.

And I'd borrow you my dr's, but you really need some MT's to harness your amount of powah.
It's actually closer to 500hp
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:25 PM
  #10  
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What did you dyno on pump gas & street level boost? I thought it was under 400whp, but I cant remember for sure.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jtkz13
What did you dyno on pump gas & street level boost? I thought it was under 400whp, but I cant remember for sure.
419 whp
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:37 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
It's actually closer to 500hp
I meant crank hp
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
I've been around the board quite sparingly as of late - my inlaws are visiting and I plan on selling my house as well.

Anyways, the car is running quite well. I drive it quite calmly most of the time. No problems encountered so far. I do run synthetic oil 5W-20 and don't experience any oil-loss over 3K miles intervals (there HAS to be some oil-loss, but I can't seem to notice anything even in the 1/4-quart range). I have done about 7K miles on this turbo kit ranging from very hard driving to highway-only driving and the car loves both. No leaks, have not had to re-tighten anything. Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.

I did not have success with the adjustable boost regulator, so I will be putting on a 7.25psi spring shortly. Have not tuned the E-manage since my last dyno and I see AFR's in the 10.8 to 12.0 range under WOT (it varies based on outside temp, ECT, altitude etc.). I should check my plugs soon and will do so before increasing the boost.

Brakes have gone from bad to worse so I think a set of cross-drilled rotors and some good brake pads are needed - shall do so when I get the time.

We (BlueCLS6 and I) are piecing together a nearly identical kit for the auto-CLS... we have most of the components - given our general schedule, it is taking longer than expected.

Oh yes, I am just about to purchase a J32A2 engine block and hence will begin building a hefty botton-end capable of 1000hp. I should have everything done by the end of 2005... so expect a 700-800whp dyno at that time I think 6x 440cc injectors and 2 x 750cc secondary injectors should be enough for fuel at 70psi.

Other than that... the car loves the cold temps out here right now and the next item on the list is trying the 7.25psi and getting a dyno done - it will also give me an indication of how the motor is doing.
better work on the sleeves! Oh , and if you are looking for a set of forged rods that fit the 3.5L, let me know, that is if your going to stroke the motor. i have a set that are brand new. not the powder rods either. they are stock and have never been used. keep us posted.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:51 PM
  #14  
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The block will be sleeved (Benson probably) and I most likeley will not go 3.5L - I think the motor will be weaker under boost than a 3.2L given the same strength internals
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 08:02 PM
  #15  
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From: 3rd rock
Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
The block will be sleeved (Benson probably) and I most likeley will not go 3.5L - I think the motor will be weaker under boost than a 3.2L given the same strength internals
is the benson sleeve a t-sleeve type design? "o" ringed or pressed sleeve?

why do yo think the 3.5 would be weaker? essentially the same block between the j32 to j35, the only difference i have seen is a kidney shaped oil return on the 03-04 RDJ blocks, where as the 01-02 PGE blocks are identical to the j32. I will say that the RDJ block comes with a much stouter crank than the PGE and for some reason some RDJ blocks come with forged rods. who do you think will make you aftermarket rods?

Never heard of Benson. are they in cali?
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 08:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Loseit
did you say.....auto?
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:01 PM
  #17  
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Yup, Benson is in So Cal - they have been working on Honda motors for a long while now. There are probably equivalent places out there... much more of a choice now; I need to do some research.

I need to clarify: A J35 conversion is weaker at high RPMs due to the rod ratio - doesn't matter how strong your rods are... if you are at 7-8K RPMs you had better have a short(er) stroke! I don't want to do a fully custom crank/rod/piston combination, in which case I could probably get 3.5-3.7 liters and a good combination to make power all over the band. In any case, I need to do more research first - shouldn't make any conclusions now.

Crower can make rods for me, JE/Arias can make pistons. Maintaining the same internal geometries is important to me because I don't want to experiment too much. I could probably bore it out to a 3.3 or 3.4 liter quite easily.

Thanks for your insight... I'll probably ping you when I am deciding!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:03 PM
  #18  
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damn allmotor! Glad to hear things are going well with the car! Good Luck selling the house and keep us posted on all your projects. Oh and I need a kill story soon so go get on it!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:06 PM
  #19  
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I dont think the trannies on the auto would be able to handle the turbo...do you?!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:10 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Oh yes, my QTEC exhaust cutout broke and I had to replace the motor - so far so good with the new one.
How ironic Ram! Mine broke too! Steve is getting a new one for me hopefully. Until then, I have the cover to work with.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by darrinb
if steve or matt breaks your 12.9 you'll be there in a hurry

He has until mid-Dec. cause that's when i'll be at the track with more boost
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:28 PM
  #22  
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FYI, the GT35R will only be able to support up to about 600hp (crank). You may have to step up to the next size (GT42R ---> 1000hp) I am leaving for France tomorrow... didn't have time to send you the 7.25psi spring yet, sorry. I'll get it to you when I'm back on the 21st...
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:31 PM
  #23  
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Allright... have fun Steve!!! Did you read The Da Vinci Code before going - read it on the plane at least!!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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what would you expect the auto turbo kit to dyno at??
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by darrinb
what would you expect the auto turbo kit to dyno at??

~ 375
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 10:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
No tires, no point!!
get some tires.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #27  
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It will definateley have more loss than a 6spd kit for two reasons:

(i) Inherent losses in the auto tranny are greater
(ii) The exhaust plumbing won't be as big as the 6spd due to space constraints

I'd venture to say 360-370whp at 6'ish psi, but this car will be pushing 7.5psi, so I'd say 400+whp (the tranny has been upgraded)
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 07:46 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Yup, Benson is in So Cal - they have been working on Honda motors for a long while now. There are probably equivalent places out there... much more of a choice now; I need to do some research.

I need to clarify: A J35 conversion is weaker at high RPMs due to the rod ratio - doesn't matter how strong your rods are... if you are at 7-8K RPMs you had better have a short(er) stroke! I don't want to do a fully custom crank/rod/piston combination, in which case I could probably get 3.5-3.7 liters and a good combination to make power all over the band. In any case, I need to do more research first - shouldn't make any conclusions now.

Crower can make rods for me, JE/Arias can make pistons. Maintaining the same internal geometries is important to me because I don't want to experiment too much. I could probably bore it out to a 3.3 or 3.4 liter quite easily.

Thanks for your insight... I'll probably ping you when I am deciding!
The race is on between us for for a 700+ hp motor. I have a 3.5 block at AEBS which is suppose to be at my doorstep in 2 weeks. they have had that block now for nearly 2 months. they use the t-sleeve design. after considerable research, i decided to use AEBS over other popular sleeve designs. I didn't like the Darton style, use of O ring type liners, the AEBS would be the way to go IMO. Interference fit is much better that the darton method. This is something you might consider as well, and this is a gift to you if your serious, I paid big bucks to have this block sleeved because it was the first one they have done in this series of engines. So, the tooling is there now and should be considerably cheaper the second time around. If you should go this route, PM me because they might try to charge you like they charged me, and besides, I would like to get the referral credits.

as to rods, look to Pauter, I received a set from them last week in the chrome moly materiel. they are awesome looking and will do the trick. cost 1060.00.

JE will make my pistons, in the works now.

head gasket situation sucks. I spoke with a rep at Cometic, sent him some specs, they sit down every monday and review requests for custom gaskets, and he told me that they have to make a production run of 150 head gaskets at around 80.00 a peice. do the math, it's not pretty. after trying to negotiate him down on that number without sucess, i told him to pack sand, but in a nicer way. perhaps you and several people on this board if they are serious about this motor, make inquiries into headgaskets from Cometic, it may help push our cause with them to make them. I will even provide them a block and head for fitmit.

everything that i am doing to this motor is top notch, and the only weak link in my opinion is the headgasket. do a search on Sand Buggies. there is one or two guys in the sand rail business that use the j32/35, with turbo, its really cool too, and he uses the stock head gasket. I was told by him that one guy that he built a motor for has pushed his boost to 27 psi, but doesn't recommend it, apparently that motor routinley see's in the mid 20's often.

I have no choice but to go with the stock headgasket with copper o ring on the deck. Stud everything, I have specs on those when you need them.

as for boring it out, don't bother, you can get some but the spacing between the cylnders is very tight.

Pictures will be posted when i get the block for alll you nay-sayers.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 08:27 AM
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 10:32 AM
  #30  
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Nice! I know Ben from AEBS (from the Group 5 days in San Diego). I have read about their sleeve design - PM me what you paid for it and I'll ping them. Did you order the rods/pistons via them or directly from the manufacturer?
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 12:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Nice! I know Ben from AEBS (from the Group 5 days in San Diego). I have read about their sleeve design - PM me what you paid for it and I'll ping them. Did you order the rods/pistons via them or directly from the manufacturer?
the rods were ordered directly from pauter, it's hard to believe but there is someone more whacked than us and had several sets made for this engine prior to me ordering them. it only took about 2 - 3 wks from the time the order was made to reach my doorstep. from the info that i have been able to gather, the first several sets went to the sand rail guys. as a side note, I went with .866 on the small end.

as for the pistons, i'm waiting for the block before i order them. I want to check the bore size and have the pistons made to fit for any descripancies that is probabley inherent with new sleeves.

PM sent.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 12:54 PM
  #32  
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Now this is what I really like to see.

BTW, no harness yet but I do expect to get it completed next week.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 03:55 PM
  #33  
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Sounds good Steve... the second plug/harness should reach you today or tomorrow - let me know about the $$ as well.
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 10:47 AM
  #34  
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Who's gonna be the first to order the Auto kit?
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 12:37 PM
  #35  
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We already have one (hence the reason the project started)... beyond that I am not sure. It will be based on how difficult it ends up being - manifold fabrication is very difficult given the space constraints of the auto tranny.
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 12:37 PM
  #36  
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I'm getting so GIDDY right now and I don't even own a CL/TL! Good luck guys! By the way, I heard some good things about Pauter Rods and as far as pistons go CP's are pretty damn good as well! Oh man can't WAIT!! All we need now is a standalone! Just imagine the possibilities!
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