check it out - it was my friends system before me but he only went through about 1 tank on it and the price was right.........FREE. Now, it is a dry kit so it sprays into the air meter and lets the computer decide how much fuel to add.... Actually, the computer always goes full rich on this condition and thats a good thing. Now, we are not speed density right? Also, how big of a shot should i do?

AdamR

 

 

OMG that's the ultimate compliment to people who say "you put that stereo system in now your car is slower"

...............

NOW IT'S NOT

 

pimp... so freakin' pimp... I'mma get my NX kit soon... can't wait!

 

Did I mention that I also have a v1.... HEHEHE

So anyways, is the dry kit safe enough for our cars?

AdamR

 

my personal choice nx is highly overpriced and overated...i would reccomend zex to anyone looking to purchase a kit plus no switches and can be installed in about 2 hrs !!!! it never runs too rich or too lean so no worries there ....and yes i think the dry is a lot safer on the tranny than the wet!!! i wouldnt go any bigger than a 75 shot!!!

 

There is no circumstance where a dry system is safer. A wet system is definetly safer on your engine... no chance of underfueling with a good wet setup.

NEITHER is "safer" on your transmission.

Zex is still capable of malfunctioning. It has no idea how much fuel is being delivered. It only knows bottle pressure and input from a vacuum line on your fuel regulator.

NOS is highly overpriced and overrated?!?!?
I suggest you look at how much comptech headers add to your tires on our cars...

NOS *IS* the best bang for your buck for HP.

ya, I wouldn't even run a 75 unless I was racing, 55 would be much safer for regular use. Especially without a tranny cooler.

 

and no one is scared of blowing their tranny???
Even if you blew your tranny, took out the NO2 kit, and brought it in to the dealer...they could check for the NO2's residue....if they find it your beat....congrats, but be careful...

 

Bad rumors... or too much NOS on a chitty engine.

Residue? Nitrous is just compressed air man, denser and a higher oxygen content that whats in the air around you... 2 parts nitrogen, 1 part oxygen... Your cramming more air in, thats it!

Mabye if it was running underfueled it would be greyish on the plugs/pistons/valves. But certainly no deposits or residue. Less if any, because underfueled means your running hot. Most likely burning off any deposits. As gasoline plays two parts to your engine, it's a fuel, and a coolant to the pistons. Why not all of the gas is used (burned) during the combustion stroke.

I think you mean, cars that have cheap valves, and cheap rings & pistons can be detected from the extra heat/detonation.

They are not going to pull the heads off of your car if you bring your car in for new tranny

? pull a spark plug and use a fiber optic camera? heh
but they'll be nothing to look at... Now if whomever puts some crazxy 100+ wet system in their car and burns/blows a hole in a piston... that's different.

www.n2o.org has some good reading, and some nice links.

 

Siggy's got the right idea, just don't run too heavy with the shots, and you "should" be fine, no guarantees, but you would need a large shot to do the damage we all worry about (>75). And about the tranny blowin and the dealer finding residue? Don't make me laugh, acura service isn't exactly that anal about the work they do.

 

Personally i wouldnt touch the sh!t or even consider using it on my car i really do love my car and dont want to take the chance on messin with the tranny and siggy NOS is an namebrand not the actual stuff i was talking about nitrous xpress not NOS well out of 28 members in our car club and 13 using nitrous 6 using wet the other using dry the ones using the dry have experienced less probems with their cars overall i was just stating was i have observed and that goes for mustangs s200's preludes integras and just bout any other cars i have seen and sorty all nitrous is, is what siggy said plus its colder air the colder the air the faster it burns through your engine which in return =hp.......plus any system is able to malfunction thats one of the risks...zex in my personal experience is easier to install and their is no freakins buttons to push just open the bottle and WOT and instant power its just my .02

 

Not totally right, you can definetley tell that nitrous has been used on an engine epecially because of the effect of pinking the spark plugs.

AdamR

 

You can make any kit a WOT activated one....

AdamR

 

I'm a bit concernced now... Yor are installing this type of equipment and do not know what type of load calculating system we have??

YES, we use a speed density system, MAP + IAT + Volume = Load, etc... There is no air meter in these cars and to assume so lends credit that this is BS or ignorance (in a respectfull manner)...

Please do some research before spraying...

 

I actually I did say that in my post, but they would be more light greyish. Same as when you have detonation or over temp. More than likely cracked & light colored. But this is a sign of the wrong plugs being used with NOS. As high temp plugs are required, especially with a larger shot. Bigger the shot, higher the temp on combustion.

"Definetly", no. I have taken apart engines with a 200 shot on them used for 20k (obviously not all of the 20k ). You can't really tell if it's setup properly...

 

Adam,

Welcome to the N2O Club!

I'll race 'ya!

 

Ok this is what I learned in the past, and prevented me from getting nitrous sprayed into my car. Automotive nitrous adds trace amounts of sulfur to their mixture to prevent us (u + ME) from huffin it. Now those trace elements of sulfur have a tendency to yellow the cylinder walls. And with that I spent a whole week looking for a medical nitrous distributor outside of the US that would inport to the trunk of my car. BUT after talking to some people at the track today (Wen.) they told me that they ran nitrous in their cars (20+ bottles, 100+ shot) and blew a couple of engines. During the rebuild process they said that there was NO sign of nitrous use at all. Now with all this new info it contradicts what I was told and learned in the past. About the spark plugs u can't go to the dealer for a repair under warranty with the nitrous plugs installed. 1) its a dead givaway for a tech to see nitrous plugs in the engine; 2) the spark plugs are discolored (yellow from the sulfur). The other down-side I found with using a nitrous setup is the fact that I would have to run with the nitrous plugs all the time; translation = pOOr MGP.

But after going to the track today and seeing the times that people were pulling I'm rethinking about nitrous.

What I would like to run is CAI + headers + exhaust (no cat) + 75hp shot nitrous. I know that my tranny would ovbiously go after the 1st month. But what I'm mostly conserned about is the engine would my stock fuel/ignition system be able to support these kind of power gains?

Tnx

Juker008

 

with all the tranny problems these cars have they are not going to check for nitrous residue for a bad tranny

 

SiGGy:
Not exactly correct on two counts...first it's not NOS Nos is a Holley brand...N2O or Nitrous is the actual component...

Second and more importantly...
"Residue? Nitrous is just compressed air man, denser and a higher oxygen content that whats in the air around you... 2 parts nitrogen, 1 part oxygen... Your cramming more air in, thats it! "

Sort of. First it's not compressed air, it's a gas that's got a higher molar value of. Air would denote having things like CO2 etc in it. Also...it WILL leave a residue. It is not the nitrous oxide itself that leaves the residue...but since it's a substance you can get high off of, they denature it just as they do with some types of alcohol, so that they're not selling you a drug. The denaturing agent if I remember is sulfur, and will color your engine over time.

*edit*: which now, I see, is exactly what Juker008 wrote...

Now, if you were smart you'd get the bottle filler and find a place that sold Nitrous Oxide to hospitals or med. facilities and buy the pure stuff so you'd have no evidence...


Austin519

 

 

Also what about the timing? I believe that the timming would have t be retarded 1 degree for every 50 shot. So if we were to shoot a usual shot of 75 we would have to retard our timings by 1.5 degrees. So how would we do this?

Tnx

Juker008

 

Juker008:
Heh I sense sarcasm in that other remark. It's really not difficult to get pure N2O...I can get it from my college relatively easily. You can also get a license and order it from chemistry catalogs...which is what two friends of mine did. You just have to show them you're not getting high off the stuff etc.

No idea about the timing...I'm sure you chip it somehow right?

Austin519

 

"There is no circumstance where a dry system is safer. A wet system is definetly safer on your engine... no chance of underfueling with a good wet setup. "

How can you say Wet is safer then a dry set up? with dry setup ur only injecting NOS throught the throttle body. With wet, ur injecting NOS and FUEL. Ever heard of backfire...sometimes the fuel will puddle up in the intake manifold and BOOM!!

There is a difference between Medi. Grade NO2 and the one we Boost with...i think *pretty sure* that the NO2 that we use in cars add sulfer dioxide...it will burn ur lungs if u try to inhale it.

About timming, most people will tell u to adjust it, but looking on the manufactors website, they said just to leave it alone.

I'm looking to get NOS with this month...many people have the ZEX kit, but i think there are draw backs with there system. It run off the bottle pressure. Looking to get NOS or NX, there are basically the same *component wise*, i haven't heard a whole lot about Venom. To be safe, gonna buy a auto meter air/fuel gauge, so if the fuel injectors do fail and i go lean i know to disengage the NOS or WOT.

 

Alright I need to answer a bunch of questions and statements but this one I need to answer the most. A dry system is NOT THE SAFEST. A dry system relies on spraying nitrous into the stock air meter and allowing it to regulate the amount of fuel that is necessary like it was normal air. BUT, the difference is the nitrous is whizzing by at a much faster rate than normal air which tells your fuel system to go FULL RICH which is dumping pretty much as much fuel in as possible. Now, a dry system is the EASIEST way to go but not by far the safest. I have been around nitrous (in the automotive context) for quite a while now and you can ask just about anyone who knows their shit and they will say the same thing.

As far as your setup, fuck the A/F meter. Its a waste of money unless you are tuning the money. Its like a laser detection on a radar detector - pretty much will just tell you that you got a ticket when it goes off. An A/F meter would be the same. If you really want a gauge get a electronic FP gauge. Last time I checked, the new ones from autometer were sub 200 for the new model. Anyways, the safest approach is a hobbs switch. This switch will only allow nitrous to keep spraying as long as fuel pressure is maintained. Cheap insurance if you ask me and its already saved me with my other cars.

Scalbert, I am a little put off by the assuming nature of this statement. I have had nitrous in my cars before. I know the systems up and down and feel very compfortable with them. Please do not assume that just because I am asking for some info that I am totally ignorant.

Ill look for ya buddy!!!

AdamR

 

Hrmmm, I smell a burnt motor coming up.

WE DO NOT HAVE AN 'AIR METER', or what most would refer to it as a MAF (Mass Airflow sensor).

Most Dry systems use the nitrous pressure to raise the fuel pressure in order to get the needed fuel into the mix. So the stock injectors are used just at an elevated pressure.

 

SONOFABITCH READ THE FUCKING POST ..... A DRY SYSTEM DOES USE THE FUCKING AIR METER. I UNDERSTAND THAT WE DONT HAVE AN AIR SENSOR BUT THAT DOES NOT NEGATE THE FACT THAT A DRY SYSTEM RELIES ON THE COMPUTER TO REGULATE FUEL ..... SHIIIIIT

 

Hrmmm, a little testy??

All dry systems do not use the ECU to add more fuel. Most do rely on raising the fuel pressure, aka, a mechanical means to add more fuel.

No need to get upset, but you are incorrect.

 

Alright, what I am trying to say is that a dry system uses the stock fuel system..... well not always stock but the one that is already in place. Yes it is possible to wire some sort of a relay to change the fuel flow but I would have to say that the good majority allow the ECU to do this via the the air sensor.

Testy? Perhaps.... I am having a horrible day ... damn layoffs.....

AdamR

 

The ZEX system runs a line from the fuel pressure regulator to the ZEX box, then into the manifold. It boosts the fuel pressure when the nitrous solenoid has been activated. That's in my 2.3.

Not sure about the NX setup. I thought most of them were wet setups..

 

True, I should have revised my statements as some do try to trick the ECU into thinking there is more air flow (hard to do with our speed density system as our MAP sees nearly atmospheric pressure at WOT. Any more and a DTC could be set).

But historically the fuel is added by mechanical means, but there are always exceptions.

 

Agreed .... wheres my gavel

AdamR

 

Just as an addition, from the Holley/NOS site:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSer.../NOSTech1.html

"We accomplish this by two methods. First, is to increase the pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated. This causes an increase in fuel flow just like turning up the pressure on your garden hose from 1/2 to full. The second way we can add the required fuel is to increase the time the fuel injector stays on. This is accomplished by changing what the computer sees, basically tricking the computer into adding the required fuel. In either case, once the fuel has been added, the nitrous can be introduced to burn the supplemental fuel and generate additional power"

 

Actually,

NOS means

Nitrous Oxide System

Which can be used as a universal TERM. Granted there is a company called NOS which sells N2O products. I know I have been working with their stuff for 7 years now. Thanks for the up date

Have you PERSONALLY taken apart an engine that has been spraying a wet shot for a lot of miles?


And umm YES, your WRONG it's comrpessed air. ITS CALLED FORCED INDUCTION!!! DUH...

Your forcing oxygen into the engine...

There is a *VERY* small ammount of sulfer added, and it is done so you can smell the gas if it leaks. Kinda like the gas on your stove at your house (mercaptan).

And do you get sick from stuff you cook in your oven? and or do oyur pans turn yellow?

http://www.columbiagaspamd.com/commu.../mercaptan.htm

(i think you'll find it contains sulfer too)

 

I think it has just been associated as a bad word. As long as you dont say it nosssssssss. But seriously, NOS is like the Xerox of nitrous ....

 

Yup....

If you look at other N2O products they usually say "NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEM" in them, hence NOS.

 

Sorry man, wet is ton safer than dry... If your dumping too much gas into your intake, it's setup incorrectly. And that would be a OE, operator error. NOT a problem with the NOS.

There is a very small ammount of sulfer dioxide. So you can smell the N2O.

MAN, everyones an expert on NOS, and they've never even used it. Or built/taken apart an engine with it.

 

Ok ok ok. If there is barly any sulfur in the automotive grade, then what about the plugs changing shades of different colors?

Tnx

Juker008

 

Hey Austin,

Hit me up with ur EM address, just EM it to me I got alot of shit to shoot with u.

Tnx

Juker008

 

Bad fuel/air mixture.

 

So we can say that the only downside to using nitrous is loss of engine life, correct?

Juker008