I got a quick question for all members that participated in the rotor group buy...I recently recieved the EBC front brake rotors cross drilled/slotted and SS lines. I knew there would be a pulsation at first but I've had them on for about 2 weeks now. I have put on about 400 miles on the car and there still is a highly noticable pulsation. WTF??????? How long did it take for your rotors to stop pulsating and brake normal???

 

mine were fine after about 20 miles. are you sure they were installed properly? and broken in properly?

if you dont follow break in procedure its pretty easy to warp them

 

The slots have to be like this \ on the right wheel and like this / on the left wheel right? I know about the break-in period. Anyone else???

 

Did u bed them properly? Also you should take an easy on breaking them in...500 miles atleast. They should warp unless you broke them in wrong or you were hard on breaking.

 

Also did u upgrade your brake pads?

 

I would have expected the slots to be / on both sides, the outside (top) of the slot towards the rear?

 

Yes...the outside top of the slot is towards the rear...I really didn't break hard at all...been light-footing it alot. The guy at the store said it would be fine to use my stock break pad cause they were brand new and he said that he recommends to everyone to use their stock break pads. How long did it take your rotors to stop pulsating???

 

Hummmm???

Brand new rotors warped and need a break-in period??? Sounds like shoty workmanship to me. In all the years I've had new rotors installed for replacements, never experienced this wrap/break-in issue.

Just a thought...

 

They only need a break in period cause they have a zinc coating to prevent rusting and you must break a certain way to cleanly wipe out the zinc coating on the surface of the rotor where it meets the pad.

 

How new where your brake pads?... we talking 1000 miles or 50?

Smitty

 

Wait a minute!!!!!!! Weren't you the same cluck who was defending the stock brakes a month ago or so?????????
Blaming warping on your cars accelerating too fast??????

 

dude... NEVER USE USED PADS WITH NEW ROTORS

new rotors should always be accompanied by new pads.

 

Thats what i was getting at.... Anthony, you should know better, you work on these cars for a living.... you smuck..:P

Smitty

 

OMG...there is the problem. The stock brake pads are basically crap. They will destroy the new rotors. So far me and my friend have no problem and I am about out of my break in period and these rotors and new pads feel great!

 

why you starting with me again. the break pad that I re-used were only on the car about a week. They were almost metal to metal and I couldn't wait any longer for the stotted/c/d to get off back order. As for tuleman...listen buddy...All I said was don't blame your pulsation on Acura b/c your rotors are warped because of the way you drive. I then said if you drive hard to buy slotted. How fucking hard is that to understand. All I wanted to know is how long the pulsation lasted with the group buy rotors. Then you dicks come in here like you know what the fuck your talking about and starting shit again. I didn't ask for your opinion so do me a favor and leave me the fuck alone. Can anyone answer the question that I originally asked???

 

If the guy recommended to me to use my stock pads...he should take them back right???The rotors I mean...

 

Listen here you stupid POS... Go back and read your own posts maybe follow your own stupid ass advise.
Don't blame YOUR brake pulsation on anyone but your dumbass self for not following instructions and BASIC (like high school shop class) rules of installing new brakes.
I guess that foot stuck in your mouth doesn't taste very good....
This couldn't have happened to a better odiot.

 

What fucking instructions . If you knew anything at all, then you would know that there is no fucking instructions. Just a break-in period. There was NOTHING that was sent w/ the rotors shithead. I don't know anything about zinc coated rotors dickhead so when I asked him if I could use the stock pads...he said YES!!!!!!! How fucking hard is it for you to understand. How's the foot in your mouth taste shithead...

 

ant and tule calm down aight?

 

I was calm when I asked this question...however everytime I make a post these two have something to say about it. I don't get shit from anyone else here on this site except them. They have to be Mr. tough guys on the computer.

 

Has anyone else experienced such a long pulssation period...I think I'm gonna call up Woddy tommorow!

 

What 2?... I guess you mean me and Tule???I am not insulting you Anthony... I was joking with you, that is why there was all those smilie faces after my post... Don't take my posts the wrong way.. i have no beef with you, you retard, I just like bustin your nutz because it is sooooo much fun, you smuck!!..

Go lay an egg Mr. Mechanic.. Your so smart and 4 ASE certified and you can't even figure out why your brakes are screwed up.... Duhhhh..:P :P Your still a smuck you Tornado wind tunnel loving jackoff.. Go seek some anger management classes...Smuck


:P
Smitty

 

 

smitty, you're an ASS!

 

to go back to the main subject.

I thought you are suppose to use new pads w/ new rotors

 

Yes you are suppose to use new, when I spoke with the EMC man (ya know) I told him I have 6K on my brakes and rotors and he told me not to worry about new pads, just to take some sandpaper and smooth any high spots.... I was thinking--- WTF???, that is when I decided to pull the whole order out and not take shipment...


Smitty

 

ummm...i've had my stock pads on my cross drilled rotors for about 18k miles now and still not a problem....you probably broke too hard by accident and warped them. I get a little bit of brake shimmy if i brake from 90+ but nothing major the car still stops

 

and i though it was shmuck?

 

I wasn't talking about paper instructions moron.. although you obviously needed them. I was talking about BASIC KNOWLEDGE INSTRUCTION when it comes to brakes and cars.
You were so full of know it all advise before, what happened.
You tell me not to blame Acura for warped brakes, yet when your AFTERMARKET brakes warp you come crying asking who you blame it on. I think it is funny as shit. As per your own advise you either
1. accelerated too fast.... there is never a need to push the pedal all the way down and use the power the car came with.
2. Braked too hard... because life is perfect and there is never a need to brake harder than one wishes or use the anti-lock brakes the car came with why should traffic in front you dictate the way you stop?

 

Always new pads with new rotors. Think about it. If the pads are worn slightly uneven they will distribute force to a reduced area on a new, flat rotor. This will cause more heat in a concentrated area and possible warpage.

For the time and money to replace rotors, always get pads.

 

there is never a need for anything? there is never a need to drive your car slow and grandpa and there is never a need to drive your car normal? Maybe there is a need to have the car floored, the need is personal enjoyment. Dont make this a need issue, stick to the issue at hand

 

Basic break in instructions for ALL CARS and ALL BRAKES stock or aftermarket. Any time you replace pads, rotors, or both you need to drive very carefully for the first 500 miles. BTW "warped" rotors aren't really warped. You just affixed a thin layer of your pad to the rotor in one place, thus creating a high spot. Lightly sand down the breaking surface of the rotor and then follow these instructions.

Bedding the pad to the rotor:

10-15x : Slow from 30-5 mph...do not come to a complete stop. Let the brakes cool by not applying pedal pressure for 30 seconds or more. Use very even pressure on these stops, very light even pressure.

10-15x : Slow from 50-20 mph... Let the brakes cool by not applying pedal pressure for 30 seconds or more. Use very even pressure on these stops, very light even pressure.

Alternate between these two methods.

If you have to come to a complete stop put the car in nutral and never allow the pads to "sit" on the rotors when they are hot. If you do this for the first 500 miles or so you will have successfully bedded the pads to the rotors. Good Luck.

 

Are you guys talking about the rotors from raceconcepts? I did not participate in your group buy, but I bought my rotors from those guys (dimple and slotted) and had braking shaking from day one of the install with endless brake pads.
I tried replacing with new acura factory pads and it was slightly better but still noticeable. I replace the rotors with the old original after turning them with new pads and I don't get the same brake shaking.
It was obvious that the rotors were the problem, but whether the rotors are shitty or I broke them in wrong is not the issue of this post. Just replace your rotor with the orginal after getting them turned at some brake shop and see what happens.

 

Why is there so much hostility on this board lately. The guy asked for a simple question of anyone else has a similar experience. First of all, you should only answer if you had also ordered the rotors. Second, if you have/ don't have similar experience, tell him so. Why are some of you guys jumped all over him There are some members don't have anything better to do in life and want to get involved in everything and are not helping other members If you can't help the guy, don't post so you don't have to repond to counter attacks, unless you enjoyed this kind verbal abuse then you really need to get a life

 

This board has been very negative these last few weeks. It seems like alot of people have grudges against each other. I like to come here to have a good laugh and get some info but latley its been real shitty here.

 

I tried calling Woody today when I got home...no answer...no machine. Does anyone know what his hours are cause when I ordered them I had called much later in the day and he picked right up. Anyways...the pads I used were only a week old b/c the old ones were metal to metal and I couldn't wait for the back-ordered rotors to arrive. Also I install them at work so the break-in period is pretty much the drive home and I did as best as possible w/o causing an accident.

 

Ant I really doubt your rotors are warped with only 400 miles on em unless they were really over torqued. I think Legend C is right and that you have uneven deposits of brake pad on the rotors leading to highpoints, and vibration. Id follow his advice and see what happens

Also I did alot of research when buying my Porterfields and rotors for all 4 corners, and saying you MUST use new rotors and new pads is FALSE. In fact I found the opposite was true and its considered ideal to use old pads with new rotors and old rotors with new pads. New on new is actually whats least desireable, but most time efficient. Here it is from sources that know their brakes.

Wilwood
http://www.wilwood.com/products/brake_pads/techtip.asp

"Best performance and overall results will come from bedding new pads on an already bedded, or “seasoned” rotor. Used rotors must be flat and smooth. New pads can be effectively bedded to new rotors, if some care is taken at first break-in."

Baer
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5

and a whole bunch of other all saying the same thing.

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=27
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/rot_bed.shtml
http://www.bira.org/bedding.html

There are tons more, just search online

I can understand why everyone doesnt understand why you didnt change the stock pads; if its cosmetcis, the zinc coating isnt going to last, and for performance, the stock pads stink.

You did lines, and rotors, next should be pads. I put Porterfields on all 4 corners, and it made a BIG difference in braking, although during bedding, I had no brakes at all, so be careful. The pads made such a diff with my rotors that a budwho traded his TL-S in on a 330 mentioned it when we went for a ride in my car during some "spirited" driving, so when you get the chance, I really recommend upgrading the pads also.

For now, follow LegendC's post above, and see what happens.
G-Luck

 

Oh yeah forgot about this post. On these rotors it doesnt really matter which way you mount them because the center vanes are not directional. In many slotted/drilled rotors with directional vanes, if you want to imagine the slots/holes as waves crashing towards shore, then many times, the waves would fall forward towards the front of the car.

 

he's on the westcoast so try pst 9am~5pm mon~fri

 

when i got my rotors put on, i experienced major shaking, i was about to freak out, but slowly they got better and about 75 miles later they stopped vibrating comletely............

oh yeah, i put them on 3 days ago.