Got my 01 CL S yesterday
#321
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
One step forward.....2 steps back
#323
The General Manager will not waive the 50.00, the Production Manager has not responded to the "request" to expedite the dismantling of the vehicle the motor I need is in & I am feeling a need to call corporate in Chicago.
And people wonder why businesses in America fail.
And people wonder why businesses in America fail.
#324
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
and good luck.
#325
WHO HOO!
The guy from LKQ just called, they got the motor out yesterday, QC'd it & it will be in my mechanic's possession between 12 & 3pm TODAY!
They are not charging the 50.00!
I will drop the car off Monday at 9am and should have it back by Wednesday!
I was really beginning to think they were blowing me off.
This reaffirms my faith in businesses, I was thinking they just don't care.
The guy from LKQ just called, they got the motor out yesterday, QC'd it & it will be in my mechanic's possession between 12 & 3pm TODAY!
They are not charging the 50.00!
I will drop the car off Monday at 9am and should have it back by Wednesday!
I was really beginning to think they were blowing me off.
This reaffirms my faith in businesses, I was thinking they just don't care.
#326
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Nice!
Did you get an AFR gauge yet?
Did you get an AFR gauge yet?
#331
Just the Castings for the motor mounts need to be taken from my motor & attached. (Per NVA-AV6 & I believe him!)
He says I should see significant increases at the wheels in HP & Torque. My motor runs great but has 181k, it's nearing the TB service so I figured why not get a fresh motor?
The old motor will goon a stand & I'll tear it down & see if it is ok to build. I am sure it is since the car was pretty quick. Then I'll slowly build it.
He says I should see significant increases at the wheels in HP & Torque. My motor runs great but has 181k, it's nearing the TB service so I figured why not get a fresh motor?
The old motor will goon a stand & I'll tear it down & see if it is ok to build. I am sure it is since the car was pretty quick. Then I'll slowly build it.
#334
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
yeah for being totaled recently, i would proably believe that especially depending on the yard, most seem to pull the motor right away, so it can be sold easily (faster since it is already removed so don't have to wait for it to be removed)
only thing it that it might have taken a couple of weeks though for the insurance and such to process it, and buy it then sell it, but ethier way it proably has only been sitting for a little while compared to some motors
only thing it that it might have taken a couple of weeks though for the insurance and such to process it, and buy it then sell it, but ethier way it proably has only been sitting for a little while compared to some motors
#335
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
also at a bare minimum make sure the prefill the oil filter before they start it up, so it can get pressure as soon as possible, since every thing has basically drained away from sitting for weeks (even better would be to actually put pressurized oil through the oil sender port, and preoil the motor, but not many can actually do that though
#336
I'm excited just reading this can't imagine how you're feeling lol. I think I'm gonna follow suit and go through with those KONI yellows. Keep the pics/updates coming!
#337
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
are the heads and intake manifold exactly the same as the J32?
This is a good option for getting a 3.5. Much less work involved. So for the guys who open up the engine and put in different rods and pistons...they are just adding a bit more stroke right...so a little bit more power?
This is a good option for getting a 3.5. Much less work involved. So for the guys who open up the engine and put in different rods and pistons...they are just adding a bit more stroke right...so a little bit more power?
#342
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
will you dyno? I'd love to see some #'s. This seems like such a simpler way of doing a 3.5. Might not get you quite the same power if you added RL pistons, but still a very nice power increase. Good job!
#344
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The Odyssey motor does not use the same intake manifold.
#347
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Edit: The correct valve dimensions now stand as follows: incl. J30A4/J32A4
J30A1 '98-02 AV6: 34mm/29mm (intake/exhaust)
J30A4 '03+ AV6: 35mm/30mm
J32A1 '01-03' TL/CL: 34mm/30mm
J32A2 '01-03 TL-S/CL-S: 36mm/30mm
J32A4 '04+ TL: 35mm/30mm
J35A1 '99-01 Odyssey: 34mm/29mm
J35A4 '02-04 Odyssey: 35mm/30mm
can't seem to find that thread, but found it qouted in another thread though
indeed different sized valves, so different heads (but they do more then likely come from the same casting though, just that the final machineing is different)
#350
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...s_engines.html
Honda's J-Series: Just The Facts
The J-series is the successor to Honda's ubiquitous V-6, the C-series. First put into the '97 CL and '98 Accord, it's since unofficially became Honda's workhorse. Much like Nissan's VQ, you'll find the J in just about everything. The big difference between the Js and Cs is their angles. The C-series, which includes early Accords, the Legend, and the NSX, features 90-degree-opposed cylinder banks. The J-series measures in at a more compact 60 degrees, which means the heads are closer together and the overall package is smaller. Although there are rare homologations like the J25, the U.S. has only seen variations that range from 3.0 to 3.7 liters. In short, the J-series is excellent. They're all four-valve-per-cylinder, SOHC, configurations with VTEC on their intake sides. They have open-deck blocks with cast pistons and forged crankshafts; some even have forged rods. Prior to the latest 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD engine, they all had 89mm bores with the displacement discrepancies coming from stroke. The Type S engines have the best cams, but the secret is that the J35s feature the same heads and cams as the J32A2 Type S and swapping them over to a non-Type S J-series is entirely doable.
Honda's J-Series: Just The Facts
The J-series is the successor to Honda's ubiquitous V-6, the C-series. First put into the '97 CL and '98 Accord, it's since unofficially became Honda's workhorse. Much like Nissan's VQ, you'll find the J in just about everything. The big difference between the Js and Cs is their angles. The C-series, which includes early Accords, the Legend, and the NSX, features 90-degree-opposed cylinder banks. The J-series measures in at a more compact 60 degrees, which means the heads are closer together and the overall package is smaller. Although there are rare homologations like the J25, the U.S. has only seen variations that range from 3.0 to 3.7 liters. In short, the J-series is excellent. They're all four-valve-per-cylinder, SOHC, configurations with VTEC on their intake sides. They have open-deck blocks with cast pistons and forged crankshafts; some even have forged rods. Prior to the latest 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD engine, they all had 89mm bores with the displacement discrepancies coming from stroke. The Type S engines have the best cams, but the secret is that the J35s feature the same heads and cams as the J32A2 Type S and swapping them over to a non-Type S J-series is entirely doable.
#351
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...s_engines.html
Honda's J-Series: Just The Facts
The J-series is the successor to Honda's ubiquitous V-6, the C-series. First put into the '97 CL and '98 Accord, it's since unofficially became Honda's workhorse. Much like Nissan's VQ, you'll find the J in just about everything. The big difference between the Js and Cs is their angles. The C-series, which includes early Accords, the Legend, and the NSX, features 90-degree-opposed cylinder banks. The J-series measures in at a more compact 60 degrees, which means the heads are closer together and the overall package is smaller. Although there are rare homologations like the J25, the U.S. has only seen variations that range from 3.0 to 3.7 liters. In short, the J-series is excellent. They're all four-valve-per-cylinder, SOHC, configurations with VTEC on their intake sides. They have open-deck blocks with cast pistons and forged crankshafts; some even have forged rods. Prior to the latest 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD engine, they all had 89mm bores with the displacement discrepancies coming from stroke. The Type S engines have the best cams, but the secret is that the J35s feature the same heads and cams as the J32A2 Type S and swapping them over to a non-Type S J-series is entirely doable.
Honda's J-Series: Just The Facts
The J-series is the successor to Honda's ubiquitous V-6, the C-series. First put into the '97 CL and '98 Accord, it's since unofficially became Honda's workhorse. Much like Nissan's VQ, you'll find the J in just about everything. The big difference between the Js and Cs is their angles. The C-series, which includes early Accords, the Legend, and the NSX, features 90-degree-opposed cylinder banks. The J-series measures in at a more compact 60 degrees, which means the heads are closer together and the overall package is smaller. Although there are rare homologations like the J25, the U.S. has only seen variations that range from 3.0 to 3.7 liters. In short, the J-series is excellent. They're all four-valve-per-cylinder, SOHC, configurations with VTEC on their intake sides. They have open-deck blocks with cast pistons and forged crankshafts; some even have forged rods. Prior to the latest 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD engine, they all had 89mm bores with the displacement discrepancies coming from stroke. The Type S engines have the best cams, but the secret is that the J35s feature the same heads and cams as the J32A2 Type S and swapping them over to a non-Type S J-series is entirely doable.
and yes cams are the same between the A2 and the A4, same part number
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-12-2010 at 09:44 PM.
#354
I reject any reality that might detract from my current euphoria and replace it with sunshine, puppies & rainbows of my design, IE bigger HP & TQ from my soon to be installed J35A4.
Worst case I swap the heads after I have the S heads ported polished & rebuilt.
Worst case I swap the heads after I have the S heads ported polished & rebuilt.
Last edited by e30cabrio; 02-12-2010 at 09:54 PM.
#355
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
btw if you happen to be looking at part numbers, it looks to be the same cylinder heads (and cams) as the A1 in the preminuim model and NOT the type-S
try http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com cause they have part numbers for both honda and acura
edit, can't tell the heads, same part # comes up for both the J32A1 and A2, so more then likely same casting, just different machineing
try http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com cause they have part numbers for both honda and acura
edit, can't tell the heads, same part # comes up for both the J32A1 and A2, so more then likely same casting, just different machineing
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-12-2010 at 09:57 PM.
#358
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
From what I have found around the net is the intake valves are indeed different. If you want to run the Type S heads on the J35A4 block you need RL pistons otherwise you will bend valves.
Other differences:
-bore and stoke (89x86 for the J32A2 vs 89x93 for the J35A4)
-compression ratio (10.5:1 for the A2 vs 10:1 for the A4)
Anyone know if the rods and crank in the A4 are forged?
Other differences:
-bore and stoke (89x86 for the J32A2 vs 89x93 for the J35A4)
-compression ratio (10.5:1 for the A2 vs 10:1 for the A4)
Anyone know if the rods and crank in the A4 are forged?
#359
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
From what I have found around the net is the intake valves are indeed different. If you want to run the Type S heads on the J35A4 block you need RL pistons otherwise you will bend valves.
Other differences:
-bore and stoke (89x86 for the J32A2 vs 89x93 for the J35A4)
-compression ratio (10.5:1 for the A2 vs 10:1 for the A4)
Anyone know if the rods and crank in the A4 are forged?
Other differences:
-bore and stoke (89x86 for the J32A2 vs 89x93 for the J35A4)
-compression ratio (10.5:1 for the A2 vs 10:1 for the A4)
Anyone know if the rods and crank in the A4 are forged?
#360
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Pffft, you're useless