mefromuic

Ok, so i'm changing my oil. I can not for the life of me get the damn oil drain bolt off. Part of the bolt is already stripped. Why the fuck is it so tight? It is counter clock wise to remove the bolt right?

VeeralS05

Get an oil extractor thats what I use. It works really easy and you dont have to mess w/ the oil drain bolt. Just pump out the oil, change the filter, and pour in the new oil.

mefromuic

I heard about the oil boy. I'm actually going to do an engine flush as well so there would be chunks that might not come out through the oil boy.

THis is really gay, I just brought the car a month ago. The dealer that sold it to me much have over tightened the bolt. If the threads on the oil pan are stripped, Im going to make them pay to replace it.

Lord Helmet

Mine's always tight as hell to. I let the dealer do it now. Actually, last time I took it in for an oil change, I decided to go to the Honda dealer instead. I was treated WAY better there than I've ever been treated by Acura's service nimrods.

mefromuic

Ok, the gayness continues. The bolt is pretty much rounded now. I went to Sears to buy a set of Craftsman Bolt-Out.

http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_To..._Out_Set_52162

The sears link aint working so this will have to do. Also got a replacement oil plug bolt and washer ready and waiting. Acura wanted to charge me $15 for it, i got it from Pep Boys for $3: Oil Tite M14-1.50

Hopefully this will work or else its time to drill the sucker or take it to the dealer and admit defeat.

On another note, i brought some goodies:

Water Wetter
Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner
Pro Blend Engine Cool (suppose to cool engine up to 57 degrees)
Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant
Gunk Motor Flush

If any of you have tried these or have an opinion about them, tell me about it. I saw some transmission additives too.

Dave

Yep, counterclockwise - I am sure the oil filter is overtightened as well!

Try a pair of vice grips on the oil plug bolt (a prayer sometimes helps too) and an oil filter wrench for the filter.

I can't offer an opinion on the other items. I only use Chevron Techron every 7.500 miles or so as my only additive.

Good luck!

CL'er 1st & 2nd Gen's

mefromuic - I wonder if the drain bolt may have been cross-threaded by the last place to change your oil.

Where I live, the Honda & Acura places are right next to each other and both owned by Vandergriff. I pulled up to the Honda place once and asked for an oil change. Here's what happened.

HONDA: "We can't do it".
ME: "You gotta be joking. Look under the hood and everything says Honda on it".
HONDA: "We can't touch it. You have to go to Acura".

I guess Vandergriff wants to charge the Acura price.

mefromuic

Woohoo, the Craftsman Boltout worked! It worked really well, at first i thought the boltout was stripping the bolt more but no, it was the bolt coming loose. Thanks for all those who put up with my bitching.

Finally seeing the warm oil come out was like an orgasm. And Dave, you were right, the oil filter was tight as hell too but not nearly like the bolt. I hate this dealer, they also put too much oil too. It was half a quart over the max line. I've heard thats as bad as have too little oil.

So i drained about a quart and a half of oil then plugged it back up with a new plug and washer then a 32 oz bottle of Gunk Motor Flush. Rain idle for 5 mins and drained and replaced oil filter with a cheap $2 Super Tech (walmart brand) filter. Then i filled it with regular Castrol 5W20 and drove for about 15 miles to 'rinse' the engine.

Then i drained, replaced with a $11 Mobil 1 oil filter, filled it with Castrol Syntec (fully synthetic) 5W20. I would rather have Mobil 1, but Mobil 1 5W20 doesnt come in those 5 quart jugs that sells for like $22. Oh I also put a bottle of Pro-Blend engine cool in there. Suppose to lower the engine temp by up to 57 degrees. Havent seen a change yet though in the temp gauge.

I felt a difference durning the 'rinse' but for some reason i think it wasnt as smooth after the final oil, oil filter, and Pro-Blend.

I'm led to think that its becuase of the oil filter. The cheap walmart 'Super Tech' is actually larger (length wise ofcourse) than the Mobil 1. So maybe, the car is getting better oil flow.

Anyways, I'm expecting to see a improved mpg from all this. BTW, i filled the oil like right to the max hole with maybe a little over Dammnit, i might have to drain a little. Anyone got an Oil Boy near chicago that can let me borrow?

MarbleGT

go to a different Honda dealer.........Im thinking its that way because they are right next to each other. Vandergriff isnt that bad.....

Zippee

Don't worry about being a little over, won't hurt a thing.

Davidstingray

Back to the drain plug.

It's very likely that who ever over tightened the drain plug did not replace the crush washer.

To save the threads on the pan, you need to replaced the cruch washer each time the plug is removed. If I recall they are under a buck a pop from Acura.

The drain plug torque is 29' lbs.

CLean 3.0

also... always use 6pt. socket to loosen and tighten drain bolt. 12pt. sockets especially cheap quality ones will strip the bolt again.

mefromuic

Oh really, i always thought the 12 pt would be better. But thinking about it, it does make sense. The points on the 12 pt would be closer to the bolt points and thus strip it easier. I actually started with a socket wrench so that made the situation worse. I know better now.

The washer was still there. But the replacement plug i got came with its own washer and it was plastic instead of metal. They called it a gasket. I think its better becuase it will seal better and make it harder to freeze the bolt in again.

Again, thanks for everyones input.

Now, help me with the Idle Air Control Valve in my other thread

Roady

After an oil change at the dealer and subsequently finding (via a drip) that the drain plug was left fastened hand tight, I have since taken the approach of insisting at each oil change that the drain plug be torqued as per the OEM manual (29 lb-ft). The error got me a gratis oil change, but the thought of the plug falling out during a red line run is rather terrifying. Bottom line always is: If you want it done right, do it yourself. However, that is not always the most viable option, so you have to insist that the service provider you choose does it right.