and i did it all by myself

here is my review

if you are anywhere near Austin and San Antonio I WILL HELP BECAUSE THIS IS THE HARDEST MOD IN MY LIFE

it took me 11 hours

here is some advice for those who are going to install headers

tools u need
anti seize
gloves
jack stand
jack
different size sockets and wrenches and about 4 extensions two small ones and two long ones
breaker bar
torque wrench
wd40

best procedure

remove stock strut bar: there are a total of 9 bolts 4on each side and a little one that is bolted to the fuse box that is located on the passenger side there are 2 that are visible on each side and the other 2 are hidden in the vent like wall closer to the firewall

they are easy to remove because the vents comes off on each side. Do not completely take out the bar because there is too much to mess around with. instead just cut the blue plastic thing that holds some wires. once u do that just move the bar away as far as it can go.

second

remove the fuse box that is located on the passenger side again u are just going to move the black box so u can reach the rear header. The fuse box is held my a little bracket that u can clip off. u cant see it but u can feel it behind it. if u cant find it u can try to remove the one bolt that holds the fuse box. there is also a black plastic type of bolt just break it off. it took me forever to get off that bolt and once i did that is when i discovered the clips on the back of the box. once u remove that just cut the one plastic tie that is hold a wire on the firewall. Do not attempt to unplug all the stuff because u dont have to. just try to move it as far away as possible so u can access the rear header

third

after getting to the front and rear header and loosening the bolts jack up the car. best place is to jack up the car is the hooks on under the bumper. the same hooks for tow trucks. lift one side and then place the jack stand where the jack placements go. do the other side and make sure the car is stable and dont forget to put up your parking brake. u might want to put stoppers on both sides of the rear tires.

fourth

go under the car and spray wd 40 on the three bolts to the cat. while u let that soak remove the cat heat shield because its going to get in the way. it is pretty easy to remove a total of four bolts on each corner. after that REMOVE THE TOP BOLT FROM THE DOWNPIPE TO THE CAT, it is the hardest one to remove. use whatever u can use to get that thing off. after u get that top bolt off then go tackle ther other two. if u cant get that top bolt ill give u some recommendations later.

fith

remove the o2 sensor with a wrench that will fit.

sixth

now using a breaker bar and extensions remove the a pipe from the headers. this should not be too bad. it took me about 10 mins. just use the breaker bar to get the bolts moving then switch it out with a turny clicky thing. after u are done then take the a pipe off of the cat then the hanger

seven

now remove the front and rear headers and put the comptechs on. DO IT FROM THE TOP OF THE CAR AND NOT THE BOTTOM then put the bolts back on AND DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY OF THE BOLTS just make sure u put them where they will not fall out.

go back under the car and put the a pipe into place make sure to put it on the hanger first and DO NOT PUT IT ON THE CAT line the a pipe with the rear headers and put the bolts on THIS IS REAL TRICKY AND I CAN EXPLAIN U JUST HAVE TO FIGURE IT OUT FOR YOURSELF all i know is if u connect the rear ones first it makes the whole process easier. then do the front. after u have bolted the headers to the a pipe then muscle the cat into the a pipe. re bolt the a pipe and cat then put a little anti seize on the thread of the o2 sensor. DO NOT GET ANY ON THE SENSOR. gently put it back into place and tighten it. then go put the cats heat shield back on and make sure to tighten the bolts or it will rattle while u drive

eight

tighten the headers to the manifold then torque it to spec if possible if u dont have a torque wrench just make sure u dont try to muscle the bolts on. a good tug after the wrench dosent move should be a good indication

nine
turn on your car to check to see if u have any leaks. if u used wd40 on the bolts or headers then there should be a light mist coming from the headers. just look for leaks or anything that dosent sound right. if everything checks out then u are done. turn off the car and re install the fuse box and oem strut bar and lower the car and u are done

troubleshooting

i cant get a bolt off the A pipe to the cat and im starting to strip the bolt.

in this case move further down and remove the cat itself. it still three bolts but they are easier to remove, plus u will get rid of all the trouble of removing that one bolt. remember to use wd40. yes u have to take off the o2 sensor from the cat but its worth it. take off the cat and it will be all one piece the A pipe and cat remove it under the car and work with the trouble bolt in the grass or your garage. since u have a lot more room u can use a breaker bar and it should be easy to take off.

i had a lot of problem with that top bolt. i tried 3 hours to take that damn thing off and i couldnt. took off the cat then the bolt was easy to remove because of the flexiblity. and that whole process took less then 10 mins.

hope this help with install questions

sidemarker

 

i installed intake and exhaust earlier this week and i felt a loss of low end power

with the headers i have gained back that loss of power

i will update more later

sidemarker

 

Yeh, I heard horror stories about the header install, that's why I had my mechanic do it on my AV6. He charged me $70. With the right tools and a lift, he installed my headers in around 45min-1hr.

On the AV6, you get a gain in low end, and the engine revs quicker to redline. My car runs too rich now, so I think I would get better gains if I had some sort of a/f computer.

 

Gawd I'm glad mine were instaled before I bought the car

 

I hope you didnt do this by yourself! PSYCHO!:P

 

WOW.....11-Hours !!!!

I understand the difficulty of doing it yourself, but I didn’t have to go through NEAR that trouble when we did mine last weekend.
The only thing we took off from above was my Neuspeed strut Bar.
The stock strut bar & fuse box stayed on and we removed/installed all the exhaust parts from the BOTTOM.

Another tip.....
There is a central point under the car where you can lift the entire front from ONE point.
It’s just behind the lower plastic shield and just forward of the engine.
Then we put the jack stands behind the front wheels where the factory jack lift points are.

Enjoy the EXTRA power......I know I am.

Shawn S

 

Having installed the headers and now having un-installed them I can say that I didn't go through all of that to accomplish it. In fact the only other part moved was the HO2S1 which is obviously required. Other than that it was just the headers. But it is all in the manner you go about it, the tools (I definitely suggest air tools which it appears were not used in this case) and how flexible your arms are...

But in both instances, the headers took just over two hours for the swapping. Heck, I found these headers to be more straight forward than changing the plugs on my old Typhoon, which was also a two hour job.

BTW, just as an addition, try using some penetrating spray such as PB instead of WD40. Coat all nuts and bolts and let it sit for ten minutes and they will come off much easier.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shawn S
[B]WOW.....11-Hours !!!!

I understand the difficulty of doing it yourself, but I didn’t have to go through NEAR that trouble when we did mine last weekend.



Hummmmm You had 3 people and it took 3 hours soooo 9 hrs labor. 11 hrs for one person and the first time doing the job seems about right. Next time it can be done in half that time.

 

I'd really like to do this. I have access to a lift, & air tools, so it should be easy for me. Just have to convence myself to spend a grand on it.

 

Sidemarker,

I’m wondering how the heck you tightened the bolts going from the Header to the A-Pipe by yourself.
You must have come up with something creative to hold the NUT or BOLT in place while tightening.

Shawn S

 

I used an open ended wrench leveraged aginst the firewall. That worked out fine once you got it in place. For the new install I was actually considered JBWelding the bolt in place...

 

my original plan was to wait for my room mate to help me out but i used a open ended wrench and adjustable turny clicky things for the top. it was hard to get them but it was like a maze trying to get the tools up there. i used a turny clicky thing with two long extensions and one short one to tighten it from the bottom then i switched it out with the torque wrench.

sidemarker

 

actual work time might have been like 9 and a half hours

i had a few breaks in between

it was that top bolt from the cat to the A pipe i could not take off. so i messed with that for like 3 hours. then i removed the cat and that bolt was easy to remove when u are not under the car.


with all honesty if i was to do the install again it will take me about 4-5 hours

sidemarker

 

Sidemarker you did not mention anything about your compression rings being placed inbetween the headers and A-pipe and A-pipe to Cat.... I hope you put them in...LOL...


Smitty

 

sorry didnt think of that one cause they were already in there

i bought my headers used

sidemarker

 

THAT brings up an interesting question.
Shouldn’t those be replaced on a used set ???

Shawn S

 

IMO, YES!!! I'm supplying new ones with the set I am selling. These should always be replaced and it may not seal properly when reused.

 

tisk tisk....don't tell me sorry... I am sorry for you....ouch.... time to work that bolt lose on the A-pipe to cat and unbolt the A-pipe to headers.... alittle anti-seize compound on them and stick them in....it will hold them in place... you didn't read them directions... but i know they were used headers and they came with no directions.... them bastards... go sue the guy who sold them to you..

This should take you only about 8 hours...LOL... sorry I had to say it...

11 hours for a header install is crazy man... but atleast you feel good that you did the work yourself... I know I would of had a hell of a hard time without all of my air tools, Chikai and if I had alot more miles on my car.... but best of luck to you

Smitty

 

damn no one told me or posted about replacing the rings

well after a day of driving i have had no problems

so i guess its ok, but im going to hate to take that shit off again

sidemarker

 

Shouldn't feel bad... it took Amir 11 hours to do his intake with the clicky-clicky thing

haha just fucking with u amir

 

 

Here is one suggestion, go to an emissions station which use a sniffer test and ask (pay) them to snoop around the connection points. This might be able to see if there are any leaks and avoid pulling it off.

 

could it be possible to hear it or smell it under the hood??

if there was a leak, could the o2 sensor pick anything up?

now i am worried about this...

sidemarker

 

Okay, kind of off-topic but I am thinking about doing this mod next year. What are the downsides or negative consequences that occur with adding the headers? I am still baffled as to why Acura put so much restriction into the stock headers. Does gas mileage get worse, are there emissions problems, is the car louder? Thanks...

 

there are real no consequences besides a big hole in your wallet

the headers are less restrictive then the stock exhaust manifold and downpipe. there should be no emission problem since the comptech headers are CARB sanctioned. i dont know if it made the car louder because i have intake and exhaust, but it has diffenetly made my exhuast sound better (it has more of a MMMMMM sound rather a HUMMMMM)

my suggestions is if you are going to do any engine mod first get the headers first, you cant go wrong...

sidemarker

 

Don't be worried, it won't hurt anything. If the leak were severe enough then you would probably set a DTC, but that would have already occured. The main reason to be sure that it is sealing is performance. With a leaking seal you might not get the full benefits.

And, you won't be able to see, or hear anything. But there is a possibility of smelling something...

 

I let the Acura Dearship do it. I bought the headers from them and they did the install. That way if it got fugged up, they were to blame. Labor...3 hours. Cheap insurance.

 

No, No, and only at very high revs. Get Headers