Final Mod (this one is pretty cool!) before Dyno & Track
05-31-2003, 05:27 PM
#1
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Final Mod (this one is pretty cool!) before Dyno & Track
Okay... I didn't tell anybody about this mod until I actually was able to get it finished.
Remember all the discussions about unsprung weight and rotational mass? Well, meet my new drag wheels:
15 x 9" Bogart Drag Star weighing in at a hefty 7.5 lbs each
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/gunjan_ra...c=ph%26.view=t
The drag tires will be coming in next week... these weigh in at 17 lbs each... for a grand total of 24.5lbs on each wheel (compared to 52lbs stock).... 50% reduction!!
The only gotcha is that I need to put drag-wheel studs (about 1.5" longer than factory wheel studs)... which I will do sometime soon. The wheel will fit without them... but the tracks have a rule where the wheel-stud must stick out of the lug-nut by 1/2 of the stud-width.
Remember all the discussions about unsprung weight and rotational mass? Well, meet my new drag wheels:
15 x 9" Bogart Drag Star weighing in at a hefty 7.5 lbs each
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/gunjan_ra...c=ph%26.view=t
The drag tires will be coming in next week... these weigh in at 17 lbs each... for a grand total of 24.5lbs on each wheel (compared to 52lbs stock).... 50% reduction!!
The only gotcha is that I need to put drag-wheel studs (about 1.5" longer than factory wheel studs)... which I will do sometime soon. The wheel will fit without them... but the tracks have a rule where the wheel-stud must stick out of the lug-nut by 1/2 of the stud-width.
05-31-2003, 05:31 PM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I made a slight miscalculation, so I have to grind about 1mm on the extreme edge of the caliper... but other than that.. perfect
I don't want to put a 1/8" back-plate... which is another solution.
I don't want to put a 1/8" back-plate... which is another solution.
05-31-2003, 05:41 PM
#5
Senior Moderator
the kids in the ceebics are gonna shit when they see you pull up on slicks and do a gnarly burnout w/ your exhaust unbolted.
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05-31-2003, 08:57 PM
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I need to install the clutch/flywheel... then put the longer wheel-studs and mount the tires so probably within a month or so I can run the car.
I'll be able to better guage my E.T. after I dyno the car.
I'll be able to better guage my E.T. after I dyno the car.
05-31-2003, 09:00 PM
#12
Blown is Best
Allmotor,
Do you have any concerns that the additional traction will load up the drivetrain too much on a launch? As you know, with the additional traction, there will be more torque exerted on the drivetrain.
I'm curious on the impact of the tires and drag wheels. Keep us posted on your progress.
Do you have any concerns that the additional traction will load up the drivetrain too much on a launch? As you know, with the additional traction, there will be more torque exerted on the drivetrain.
I'm curious on the impact of the tires and drag wheels. Keep us posted on your progress.
05-31-2003, 09:13 PM
#13
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while this mod should produce some added result, its kind of a copout...i mean, its not TRUELY making your motor make anymore power, also, its not something that is streetable in a practical manner. its not something youd leave permanently on the car. its not somehting youd have on the car when you have a run in with some rice boy on the highway, or better yet, some real competition.
this just seems like a cheap way out of ACTUALLY producing real power, because the power wont TRUELY be there. everything else youve done to the car is something of value, something that is streetable, something that actually MAKES power. this, on the other hand, does not.
personally, i applaud your devotion to your goal of making a 300 whp NA CL-S, but this is basically as good as cheating. id be much more interested in what times or dyno runs you aquire with some NORMAL and STREETABLE tires/wheels than some cheater, track-only 15s.
this just seems like a cheap way out of ACTUALLY producing real power, because the power wont TRUELY be there. everything else youve done to the car is something of value, something that is streetable, something that actually MAKES power. this, on the other hand, does not.
personally, i applaud your devotion to your goal of making a 300 whp NA CL-S, but this is basically as good as cheating. id be much more interested in what times or dyno runs you aquire with some NORMAL and STREETABLE tires/wheels than some cheater, track-only 15s.
05-31-2003, 09:31 PM
#14
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Jim... I understand your point. The 'track-ready' version of my car won't be comparable to the 'street-only' version of the same car.
However... I am only interested in E.T's. Most avid drag-racing enthusiasts rely on traction and weight-loss as part of their 'performance package'. I am not going to 'gut' the car out... remove interior etc. as that's pretty cheap! But... using slicks or drag tires wouldn't be 'cheating' as I see it. Along that vein, wouldn't forced-induction be cheating? The CL-S doesn't come with a S/C or a turbo or NOS! It does come with 6 pistons, two heads, an intake manifold, throttle-body and a 6-speed transmission!
I am fairly confident of 13.7-13.8 E.T's on a street-setup. It is nearly impossible for our car to run low 13's naturally aspirated without better traction (thank FWD!).
I was very disappointed with my E.T's while being FI. At nearly 112mph... I should have hit mid 12's... but alas, I was 0.5 to 1.0 seconds off... inconsistent and just plain pathetic. We are ready to laugh and ridicule the Comptech CL-S 6spd because it ran a 14.2 with > $25K of mods!
Mods are defined by two methods (you state both actually):
(1) Power Adders (intakes, exhaust, TB's, etc.)
(2) Power Relievers (lighter components etc.)
Traction is another key component of performance, handling etc. You can't say trying to get better traction is cheating!
Another thing you fail to mention is driving ability. Most professional car-owners don't DRIVE their cars... so does the fact that they hire professional drivers... is that cheating?
Also... the drag tires I ordered at D.O.T approved... not that I would use them on the street!
However... I am only interested in E.T's. Most avid drag-racing enthusiasts rely on traction and weight-loss as part of their 'performance package'. I am not going to 'gut' the car out... remove interior etc. as that's pretty cheap! But... using slicks or drag tires wouldn't be 'cheating' as I see it. Along that vein, wouldn't forced-induction be cheating? The CL-S doesn't come with a S/C or a turbo or NOS! It does come with 6 pistons, two heads, an intake manifold, throttle-body and a 6-speed transmission!
I am fairly confident of 13.7-13.8 E.T's on a street-setup. It is nearly impossible for our car to run low 13's naturally aspirated without better traction (thank FWD!).
I was very disappointed with my E.T's while being FI. At nearly 112mph... I should have hit mid 12's... but alas, I was 0.5 to 1.0 seconds off... inconsistent and just plain pathetic. We are ready to laugh and ridicule the Comptech CL-S 6spd because it ran a 14.2 with > $25K of mods!
Mods are defined by two methods (you state both actually):
(1) Power Adders (intakes, exhaust, TB's, etc.)
(2) Power Relievers (lighter components etc.)
Traction is another key component of performance, handling etc. You can't say trying to get better traction is cheating!
Another thing you fail to mention is driving ability. Most professional car-owners don't DRIVE their cars... so does the fact that they hire professional drivers... is that cheating?
Also... the drag tires I ordered at D.O.T approved... not that I would use them on the street!
05-31-2003, 09:37 PM
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i hear what youre saying dude, this stuff is meant for track purposes only. and you couldnt be any more correct about the lack of traction the CL-S has at the track, especially with forced induction. i mean, ill admit, if i had a CL-S with a supercharger or turbo, id want to AT LEAST get some drag tires to fit the 17" rims for the front, so thats basically the same thing as what you are doing, but youre taking it to the next level by getting SUPER small and lightweight rims/tires.
i wonder how far off your speedo/odometer will be with that setup installed, i bet your 1/4 mile pass will clock about 3/8 of a mile on your odometer or more!! going from 17s to 15s is bound to throw that off bigtime!! but like you said, its only for the track.
Good luck at the track and dyno, i along with everyone else, anxiously await the result!
i wonder how far off your speedo/odometer will be with that setup installed, i bet your 1/4 mile pass will clock about 3/8 of a mile on your odometer or more!! going from 17s to 15s is bound to throw that off bigtime!! but like you said, its only for the track.
Good luck at the track and dyno, i along with everyone else, anxiously await the result!
05-31-2003, 09:57 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Remember that only the RIM is 15"!!
Stock tire diameter is 25.5" The drag-tire I am using is 26"... so its a minimal correction. The 26" is measured on an 8" wide rim... on a 9" wide rim, its a tad less... so it will pretty much be the stock diameter.
This is also wrinkle-wall construction... so its 'short and fat' while starting off and then 'tall and thin' to build MPH down the stretch!
I could have used a 22" or 24.5" tall tire... but I don't want any more reduction in gearing.... so hopefully my calculations are correct!
Stock tire diameter is 25.5" The drag-tire I am using is 26"... so its a minimal correction. The 26" is measured on an 8" wide rim... on a 9" wide rim, its a tad less... so it will pretty much be the stock diameter.
This is also wrinkle-wall construction... so its 'short and fat' while starting off and then 'tall and thin' to build MPH down the stretch!
I could have used a 22" or 24.5" tall tire... but I don't want any more reduction in gearing.... so hopefully my calculations are correct!
06-01-2003, 03:35 PM
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Originally posted by allmotor_2000
Probably low 1.9's or MAYBE a 1.8x.... but for 1.7's, I need some suspension work (and not just springs!)
Probably low 1.9's or MAYBE a 1.8x.... but for 1.7's, I need some suspension work (and not just springs!)
Lou
Get some drag suspension...
06-01-2003, 05:19 PM
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Originally posted by jimcol711
while this mod should produce some added result, its kind of a copout...i mean, its not TRUELY making your motor make anymore power, also, its not something that is streetable in a practical manner. its not something youd leave permanently on the car. its not somehting youd have on the car when you have a run in with some rice boy on the highway, or better yet, some real competition.
this just seems like a cheap way out of ACTUALLY producing real power, because the power wont TRUELY be there. everything else youve done to the car is something of value, something that is streetable, something that actually MAKES power. this, on the other hand, does not.
personally, i applaud your devotion to your goal of making a 300 whp NA CL-S, but this is basically as good as cheating. id be much more interested in what times or dyno runs you aquire with some NORMAL and STREETABLE tires/wheels than some cheater, track-only 15s.
while this mod should produce some added result, its kind of a copout...i mean, its not TRUELY making your motor make anymore power, also, its not something that is streetable in a practical manner. its not something youd leave permanently on the car. its not somehting youd have on the car when you have a run in with some rice boy on the highway, or better yet, some real competition.
this just seems like a cheap way out of ACTUALLY producing real power, because the power wont TRUELY be there. everything else youve done to the car is something of value, something that is streetable, something that actually MAKES power. this, on the other hand, does not.
personally, i applaud your devotion to your goal of making a 300 whp NA CL-S, but this is basically as good as cheating. id be much more interested in what times or dyno runs you aquire with some NORMAL and STREETABLE tires/wheels than some cheater, track-only 15s.
you spelled truly wrong
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