Does the threading matter or is buying a 10mm from car shop pretty universal. Thanks again, I'm in the process of fabricating my own brackets right now.

 

Louie... just a standard 10mm from any bolt supply shop will do. One thing that you will probably notice is that when you remove the original bolt the PS pump will drop down slightly due to belt tension. So in order to re-thread the new bolt, you will need to have a helper pull up on the pump... it is damn near impossible to do it yourself.

Post some pics when you are done... I am interested to see your custom bracket.

 

Finally finished my brackets. I used the same pump point but with a bracket on it to raise the dampner to a level position with the engine. I am only using the neuspeed stb like 02av6 so I made a bracket for there too. I made them out of 1/8" steel. I have to get myself registered at a site before I can host pics. They will be coming soon. I have to take the car to the track to see if it got rid of that blasted wheel hop.

 

Looking forward to seeing the pics... photobucket is no hassle.

 

Me too, considering I have the Neuspeed STB too.

 

Don't mind the green felt. I put that there as a precaution against vibration since I made the bracket so close to the STB. I will be changing it black and trimming it the shape of the bracket. So far 3 days of driving and no problems as far as vibrations or anything. The acceleration feels nice. Yesterday launched pretty hard and all I got was tire squeal with no wheel hop.

 

very nice. I see you had to get the stiffy from ingals. I am trying to get it cheaper on the net. I think it is the same part. I will be doing the same thing soon.

 

I thought I would go with the real deal since I was making the brackets myself. I think I bought the stiffy from summit racing or Jc whitney for $125. The steal was $12 from home depot. I think 02av6 said he paid 45 for the dampner and 100 for the bracket and install. So I still came out ahead since I did it myself.

 

Nice job Louie... I like the idea of going to the strut tower and you were able to solve some of the alignment problems by adding a bracket to the PS pump. It looks like a complicated pattern to notch around that horizontal piece that sticks out. Would you be willing to share specs / drawings for the brackets? I still have a small vibration noise form connecting to the brace.

 

It did take alot of trial and error. I actually started out with some abs plastic to start the design. Even with making them first with plastic I still had to do alittle more cutting here and alittle grinding there to get it right. It still isn't as right as I wanted it to be though. Looking at it from the front of the car it is still alittle cocked to the left. I wanted it straight. Since it is slightly cocked The jam nut on the dampner is ever so slightly touching the bracket on the strut tower. In the morning since it's been cold I have been getting a very slight hum from the PS pump. Ecspecially when I turn the wheel. That's only when the car has been sitting around awhile and cold, but if you have the radio on even a slight bit you don't hear it. At hard throttle there is a slight metal on metal rattle which I think is the same problem of the jam nut touching.

I might put a slight shim of 1/8" steel on the block side of the PS bracket and have the dampner mount from the other side which will straighten the dampner and pull it away from the strut tower bracket and stop it from touching. I also could just grind some more off the bracket and call it a day, but i don't want to make that neck to thin since it takes all the torque from the engine. I don't know how much 1/8" steel can take.

Either way I have to take it off to get rid of that green felt and make it look nice and when I do I'll trace the brackets and give you some measurements with it so you or your shop can try.

 

Thanks Louie... would appreciate a scan of the template with some dimensions.

The noise you are hearing is likely the same as what I have... and I don't think that it is a rattle, but a noise vibration trasmitted through metal to metal contact. I was hoping that going directly to the strut tower (and not the brace) you would not have that problem.

The results are pretty amazing though aren't they? Well worth the effort!

By the way... here's an idea...instead of felt you may want to try rubber (from an old truck tube)... it is a color that won't stick out and the rubber may give you some isolation of sound transfer from the PS pump.

 

Wow this sounds like a great mod I went to look at the ingalls it was 160 bucks man thats kind of $$$. I am really considering about doing this mod and it sounds fairly simple only prob is noise and correct angle for mounting plus the bracket.

 

I am having a few brackets fabricated by a machine shop for sale to you guys for cost + a dime. my stiffy is in the mail and then I will be getting it done. I will update when complete. I will be using the 172mm-186mm elastomer.

 

jproy hey how much would this bracket cost and what is it made of would it make any noise or viberations??

 

I really dont want to highjack this thread. I created a thread about it two months or so ago. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180535

I have been slow getting the elastomer and it is finally in the mail. we will r&d it untill there are no problems. I am working with a machine shop and two top certified honda/acura mechanics. I have no idea at this pint what the cost will be but I would guess between $40-100

 

Louie, don't we need a STB that connects to the firewall? How's the handling now that all you have is the Neuspeed STB? I currently have both the stock and Neuspeed.

 

I don't think that there is a"correct" angle... this is only a matter of esthetics. It is really just an anchor point for the engine, and unfortunately noise transfer from the PS pump is a bit of an issue... I am pretty sure we can fix the noise issue.

 

I asked his question a while back and was told that connection to the firewall was necessary to maintain rigidity. Isn't the Neuspeed bar intended to be use in conjunction with the stock one?

 

I would certainly be interested once you get that developed. Please let me know ASAP when it is finished and put me down on the list for 1.

 

Yep.

 

The source of my problems is that the actual dampner is touching metal to metal. Not that it is attached to the shock tower. From the picture I made a slight notch for the nut to clear, but only if it was straight. Since the dampner is cocked towards it there is like a mm space. Instead it was supposed to be at least an 1/8" or 1/4" space. There's not supposed to be any metal to metal contact from the dampner to the brackets thats why ingalls gives o-rings to put between the dampner and the brackets. Once I stop the stiffy from touching everything should be good. PLus the felt should be fine , but cutting an inner tube of a tire is a good idea.



As for the STB, yes attaching it to the firewall is more than likely more rigid, but there is no harm in just having tower to tower tie in. It still helps, plus there are many aftermarket manufactures that only make a tower to tower STB. Like CUSCO for our cars. As for the feel it didn't really change much eccept that it feels as though the back end comes around alittle easier now and not as much understeer.

Hey jproy no worries about a hijack man we are all trying to acheive the same thing in this thread.

 

Louie... I can't see your pic...

I hope that you are right regarding the metal to metal contact. What material were the "O" rings that Ingalls gave you? are they not metal? The knuckle on each end (eye) of my damper is metal... and connecting to the engine block with anything other than metal wouldn't work as it gets bloody hot.

I only suggested the inner tube rubber as I thought it may be more weather proof than felt... which may get wet and detiorate over time.

By the way... I agree with your earlier post that you might not want to grind the neck on the bracket down too much... I suspect that the engine puts considerable force on the bracket. I saw a post from another forum where the bracket got bent.

 

Sorry something happened with the pic on photobucket

 

At the request of goredcar,
here is what we are doing. First we are going to do the exact same thing 02AV6 did for his set up. However we will use a much stronger piece and most likely powder coat the final product. We are also going to try two new brackets that have not been tried yet using more than one bolt for bracket attachment to the block. Possibly using both the bolts holding the power steering pump to block. Whatever ends up giving the best results at the lowest cost is what we will use as the final design. Any additional cabin noise, besides that sweet exhaust note, is unacceptable and will be kept to a minimum. Anything we do could be powder coated in any color for looks and rust protection unless we use an alloy that doesnt rust. I have a friend who does wheels and he will probably do this for me for just materials. My mechanics are young guys who have been hopping up every kind of car in there shop. We have become friends. They are both top certified Honda mechanics. They have already expressed interest in doing this with me. They have a close buddy who owns a machine shop. One of the owners (the two top mechanics) brother used to own a race shop. So my guys tell me they can have this thing machined for nothing as well. I am plenty capable of doing this with my own tools so with this little think tank I have put together we should end up with something nice. As far as a location for mounting the other bracket to the strut tower, I see no reason a piece of 1/8" steel could not be placed under the stock STB. Even so, I think we can rig some way for it to attach to the top of the STB if need be. My car is a 6-speed and I have the stock STB. I see no reason why this won’t work for 5ATs as well. Any thoughts are welcome.

 

Louie11 Hey the ingalls you get how big are they and where did you get it from is it neccessary to get neuspeed STB need advice really looking into this mod I found it on ebay but are going for at least 160 to pricey I thought 02AV6 found one for 40 bucks and got a bracket?????

 

I got one for 45 for a civic. it is the same part. 172mm-186mm elastomer. everything else will have to be fabricated.

 

Hey JP... it sounds like you have access to some great resources. Thanks for all you efforts in getting this available to all members at a reasonable cost. The results are truly worth it... The cabin noise is a pain... and I would gladly pay to get rid of it totally.

I look forward to your production powder coated model.

 

I cant wait to do it either. I should have the NRG elastomer by Wed. We will start to work on it then. I have no idea when we will finish it. 1-3 weeks maybe.

 

The issue is that you will need the two front shock tower bolts which is where the stock STB bar connects.

 

On the Ingalls site, if you look in the instructions for some of the installs, you will find that even Ingalls placed a 1/8" bracket under the end of the STB where it connects to the shock tower. There is as least another 1/8" of thread left over the nuts holding my stock STB to the shock tower so I can’t see why this will cause a problem unless you have serious phobia about symmetry. It will not affect any of the driving dynamics of the car.

 

OHHHHH so youre saying I dont need a STB

 

I decided to grind alittle more off the STB bracket and I moved the mounting point of the Dampner on the PS bracket. Now the Dampner is clearly not touching anything metal anymore. I'm going to Wisconsin this weekend so it will be a good test to see if I eliminated the noise completly. I will update on monday!

 

I bought mine from Summit Racing. It is 7" from eye hole to eye hole. They have it for $129.99 plus free shipping over 75 dollars. Then I paid $13 for the 2" x 1/8" steel at Home Depot and made the brackets myself. So a total of $143 for everything.

 

I don’t understand how your bracket attached to the power steering pump is not rocking even a little under changing load. If you are using the flange that sticks out about an inch or so above the bolt for the power steering pump, how do you know it won’t break? How did you stabilize that bracket? I don’t think you just tightened the hell out of that bolt and it stayed. ????
Curious.

 

I just bought mine of of ebay arrives on wed I have the EGR damper on the civic and will fabricate the braket soon but it will take some time so I'll post pics as soon as possible though thanks for the info Louie11

 

The slit in the bracket is the exact size of the flange that sticks out. The bracket is flush up against the block as far as stabilization. Plus I only hand tightened the PS bolt to about 20-30 ponounds. Since the slit is so perfect even without the dampner attached you couldn't even by hand rock it back and forth. As far as it breaking I have no clue, only time will tell. It is part of the engine hoist loop so I would think that it is made strong.

 

I sold my bracket to someone with NA AV6 and had fabricated the beefier version. Same concept, just stronger. I'm out of town and going to post pics tomorrow.

Louie your version looks like as it not strong enough (too narrow) at critical points and it might break upon consistant hard take off.

 

We'll see if it holds. I'm not a structural engineer so I don't know what 1/8" steel can withstand at a certain width. I might be making them out of 1/4" just for the hell of it. I just made it to do what is needed and at parrall lines to the engine movement. I just didn't like the crazy angles you guys were running the dampner at. So far I took it off once and it hasn't even flexed a slight bit. Not like that guys on the tsx forum. I will be going to Benson soon to get a dyno so I can watch it in action and see what type of stress is being put on it at load.

 

I must say though that this dampner sure helps us front drive guys. I finally got to test it in the rain. I would always get wheel hop with a 1/4 or more throttle when the ground was wet. Today I went half throttle and I could feel the car wanted to hop once, but instead it just planted and spun with no hop. Plus I'll have to take a picture, but the other day I did a nice burnout coming out of my parking spot at work with a bunch of smoke. Childish I know, but I was never able to do one before this mod.

 

awwwww..........the smell of rubber......