where are the pics, instructions? I cant see any of the pics from the earlier posts. Implicit, that is what it does. very practcal mod for our cars becuse of a crappy damper to begin with. 6speeders already have one from the factory but it is not that strong. I dont know about the autotrans. this is something i really want to get.

 

I am in the same boat. If there is any noticable difference for the autotrans I will buy!!! I don't know where to get this machined anywhere around here but this is definately something I want

 

for you guys who still dont understand what it does, I got this from the ingalls site, the damper can be bought from them for 159 shipped i think. All that we would need to do is fabricat the mount bracket or two:


Ingalls engine damper is a self-contained elastomeric shock that mounts on brackets between the engine and the chassis. It reduces extreme engine movement and dampens the motion, providing many benefits. The “Stiffy” was originally intended for the sport compact market, but can be used for some Hot Rod* applications if it is applied correctly.

Benefits:
*Greatly improved off-the-line acceleration
*Ingalls engine damper will provide reduced wheel hop
*Ingalls engine damper will provide improved vehicle stability
*Reduced shock loads on driveline components
*Ingalls engine damper will provide Smoother shifting
*Ingalls engine damper reduced wear on exhaust system joints
*Less vibration transmission to the driver compared to polyurethane motor mounts.
*Less shock load, compared to torque straps and chains.
*Drifting – helps reduce shock loads when wheels gain traction.
*Ingalls engine damper reduces motor movement – decreases the chance of motor parts rubbing against the hood and frame.

 

the one 02AV6 used is still no the net for $45 also. just search "Universal Engine Torque Damper" on ebay. I just looked at a few of them there. I wonder if the Ingalls unit is better. anyone please

 

Ok, have a new hosting now, here are the pics





And here is a drawing of attachment and how it works

 

Ingalls unit looks identical to the the one I purchased at 1/3 the cost on ebay (search for Universal Engine Torque Dampers 172MM-186MM)

While a more stonger bracket can be constructed, mine DOES WORK fine and it attached to a safe point (see the above drawing). Immediately have noticed the results upon take off with car planted and NO observed vibration in the cabin.

Keep in mind my motor mounts filled with polyurethane and the combo is superior in traction. Before/After video coming tomorrow.

 

Just quote his original post and you can see the links.

http: //www.v 6per forma nce.net /gallery/data/500/489802AV6_tdafter2.jpg

http:// www .v 6pe rformance. net /gallery/data/500/489802AV6_tdafter2.jpg

Or remove the spaces.

Edit: Hah, didn't see the pics above.

 

Correct

 

Also keep in mind I have a decent torque - 260lbs at the WHEELS (330 crank) and it works great, so anyone will see the benefits.

BTW, I have recently lined up my FWD with friend's E46 M3 and we were side-by-side from the light up to 50mph then I lost him. Before, I lost about 1.5 car length due to traction and played the catch up .

 

Does the power steering pump need to be removed for instalation or can you just remove the bolts and set it next to it as its shown in the picture. I am sorry if this sounds stupid, im just trying to figure out who can do the work to get the results. I am mechanically retarted

 

No pump removal needed. Just longer bolt (see above in red) to fit the damper on the mounting point.

 

And here are the couple videos on the dyno - BEFORE (old setup) and AFTER (new setup) with torque damper (see pics above) and poly mounts. Couldnt' find the source from the last year BEFORE those two were installed to compile together, however try to notice there is no or very minimal engine movement in AFTER video

The BEFORE video contains 3 dyno parts, just watch the engine movements in the first part then compare to AFTER.

Click on BEFORE
Click on AFTER

 

Thanks a lot for the videos, those are great.

And nice work hitting the 12s!

 

Nice! And AFTER video shows both torque damper and poly mounts work great

 

First of all I must thank 02AV6 for his great post and pics that inspired me to try this mod. I was trying to fix a specific problem... and that was a sort of resonant vibration that I would sometimes get with "blipping" the throttle when rolling. I also had problems with wheel hop when launching hard, so I was hopeful that this would help.

I ordered the dampner months ago... and finally got it installed today at a local performance shop.




I was pleased with the installation... it is a bit different that that of 02AV6 as I have the stock strut tower brace so I could not use those bolt positions for another bracket... this installation is a bolt welded to the stock strut brace, otherwise the installation is pretty similar. On the drive home I noticed a more more solid acceleration off the line... seems much more solid and planted... more powerful. No sign of my phantom resonant vibration as yet... but, and this is a big BUT... I have an very annoying power steering pump vibration that is now being transmitted into the passenger compartment. The shop warned me about this and could not suggest a way to isolate the P/S pump noise. I agreed to try it for a while to see if this fixed my original vibration problem... secretly hoping that the noise would not be too bad. No luck though as the noise is far worse than I had imagined.

I love the improvements from the dampner... but the P/S pump noise is something that I can't live with. Any ideas on how to get rid of the P/S noise would be greatly appreciated.

 

looks a bit awkward being welded on to the stock strut bar...

 

The strut brace is drilled with the bolt welded on both sides... it actually looks stock...like it belongs there. I also think that this is more solid than a bracket that has a bend in it.

 

Any way to insert a rubber or urethane bushing to isolate the bolt mounted to the strut bar?

 

nice

 

That's a good suggestion... I was also thinking that there might be some way to use bushings to isolate the connection of the strut tower brace to the firewall. I actually wonder if the connection to the firewall is necessary to maintain rigidity.

 

Tying the strut bar back to the firewall definitely is necessary for rigidity. Strut tower to strut tower alone won't provide enough support.

 

I was kind of afraid of that... thanks for the confirmation. I am going ot pick up some rubber washers / bushings today and will do some experimenting.

 

Looking good Nice Mod.

 

Well I spent a couple of hours today finding and installing nylon washers at all contact points. The stock strut tower brace is a pain to remove and when I removed the bolt for the PS pump it slipped down a little (of course - belt tension) and it was a bitch to get it lined up again to thread the bolt on.

After all of that there is no improvement in the noise transmitted to the passenger compartment. I was curious to know if the sound was also audible outside, so I had a buddy stand outside while I drove by... no noise audible outside. Maybe the solution is to keep the window down and drive with my head outside

At the moment I can't think of any ideas except some kind of fancy bracket that attaches only to the strut tower and NOT the brace. The bracket that 02AV6 used will not work for me as I have the stock bar that uses the two bolt positions that he used and there is no room to piggy back on. I would be worried about vibration transfer anyway.

I am open to any ideas... the benefits to this mod are really significant, so I don't want to give up on it.

 

did you put any nylon washers where the strut tower bar connects to the firewall?

 

Were the specs for this damper the same as the one 02AV6 used?

 

I did put washers (large plastic and smaller diameter but thicker nylon) on all four points where the bar connects to the firewall. But I am thinking that this is really where the vibration from the pump resonates as it is almost like a little sealed resonating chamber (like the box on a guitar). The only true way to isolate it would be by using bushings as well as washers and it would need to be some rubber like material that would not transmit the vibration... I think that plastic and nylon may be too hard. this would mean having to drill out the holes to accomodate the extra width of the bushing. Not exactly easy access to drill... especially on the passenger side.

Allout suggested that the bar needs to be anchored to the firewall for rigidity, but I am curious to know if after market bars (Cuso, Comptech) also connect to the firewall.

I believe the dampner is identical to the one 02AV6 used... I got it from the same source on ebay and it looks identical.

 

the comptech one does, thats it

 

[]the comptech one does, thats it[/QUOTE] Thanks for the info...

 

Thanks for the info shinybluecls...

 

Comptech one does and the Cusco one is a supplement to the stock bar and installs over the top.

 

This might sound mighty ghetto, but what if you covered it with a couple layers of Brownbread or Dynomat to absorb the vibrations at the bolt contact to the strut brace.
Thats the only thing that I can think of....

 

When are you going to the track we want to see the 60ft.
times ,looks good

 

Yeah goredcar, post 60' time after a track visit. You should notice a difference and fill the motor mounts with polyurethane .

 

And BTW, I asked 02AV6 regarding his bracket and he said he's going to fabricate a much stronger one soon.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys... it goes back in the shop today to see if they can come up with any creative ideas to block the vibration. I sure do like the difference in performance... it is far more noticeable that the UR pulley mod. I have never been to the track... but if I do go, I will post my times.

 

Well they finally fixed the problem with the PS pump noise... they drilled out the holes in the firewall where the strut bar bolts on and installed rubber bushings and rubber washers. They confirmed that the point of entry of noise into the passenger compartment was the firewall connection of the strut bar by disconnecting those bolts and the noise dissapeared. It took them 4 hours and they charged me for 2... a deal in my opinion.

Even with paying the extra labour, this is a great mod... especially for 6 speeders. Highly recommended.

 

Could you ask your mechanic who did the dampner install what size bolt and threading the power steering bolt is that needs to be lengthened. Thanks!

 

Louie call him your self it Ben from Garage Kwai 1-847-259-6960

 

The bolt is 10mm and the replacement length is pretty close to 2 inches. I had it out myself and I recall it being pretty long. If you are planning an install just pick up a few bolts of varying lenghts (1.5, 1.75, 2.0).

I am still amazed at the difference that this mod made for me... I can still hear the PS pump a little bit in first gear... but the performance improvement is well worth it. Good luck