Okay, so you can either use SilverKnights instructions or my new ones.

Stuff you need:
1 Dual stage shock sensor
1 female prong
1 male connector
1 O-ring connector
1 quick splice wire tap
1 double sided velcro sticker
1 roll of electrical tape
5 or more twistie tie or zipties
Razor,scissor,wire splicer optional,11mm socket wrench,screw driver,pair of pliers






First get the dual stage shock sensor,splice both ends of the first and the second stage wires and twist them together. Then tape it in several places so you don't have wire running all over the place.

Then connect the male prong to the end of the blue/white wire(1st and 2nd stage sensor wires). and the female prong to the red wire and the O ring connector to the negative wire which is black.



Now there is two options, first option is to take all the prongs off teh fuse box, take the fuse box half way out like SilverKnight mentioned OR just find the wire directly w/out taking all the prongs out. I'll post my way first.

first lay on your back under your steering wheel so you can see under the dash.
*do this during the day so you can see the wires*
Then look straight up and to the right you will see a white box thats about 10 X 4 inches. find your self to the back of the box. you should be able to see a green prong w/ many wires coming out of it. then look for a solid yellow wire w/ silver dots on it. trace the wire away to from the fuse box so its easier to work with. After you find the yellow wire, splice it w/ a knife and use the quick splice wiretap to tap it. (the wire is so think the quick splice can't splice it). after you connect the wiretap(blue plastic piece ) get the blue/white wire that you connected and plug the male piece into the quicksplice wiretap.
Next plug the positve wire to teh 2nd slot in he back of the fuse box like this.

 

and then hook the negative to the bottom screw in this picture

If all went well you should see the green (first stage) and red (second stage) leds comeon when you tap the sensor or shake it. If not check your wiring again.

Next close your door place the sensor on the floor or anywhere just to test it. Set the knob ALL THE WAY DOWN to the most sensitive since this sensor will ignore 1st stage (weak impact) and trigger the horns/hid when the 2nd stage is triggered(strong impact).
Arm the alarm, WAIT 30 seconds. If you do not wait or impact the sensor before 30 seconds it will not trigger the alarm. when impact /shock is applied.

After you waited 30 seconds lightly hit the window or windshield you should see the green led go off. hit alittle harder and both green and red will go off and the horns/HID's will go off like no tommrow.

Now that you know that it works mount it in a sturdy place, I chose right on the fuse box using a double sided velcro sticker. like the picture above. that way if you wish to adjust the sensor its easiy accessable. now tape all your wires together using electrical tape and then tie itusing twistie tie or zipties to make it clean.

All done congrats.

If you have anyproblem please call me or email me.

Joe

 

Looks cool.. whats the grand total for this HUGE project ??

 

a whopping 15 bucks max and less than 1 hour.

 

where did you get the sensor and where did you get the connection parts such as male and female prong o ring connector and all that stuff>?

 

Hey NOVAwhiteTypeS:

GREAT instructions!!!! I purchased the same sensor that you have from Autotoys.com for $15 including shipping.

Question:
I park my car 10 minutes from where I work. If the sensor triggers the alarm how long does the alarm stay on? It could be a possible nine hours until I return to the car after work. Is there any way for the alarm to go off for 30 seconds and then sensor resets it to off and stays armed again?

Thanks.

Ahoooo

 

Since my licnece is restricted during the weekendin my car just sits in my driveway. (friday 7:00~monday 8:00 am) and yes it can go off multiple times. once the alarm is triggered it goes off for 2 min by default and turns off th hid/horns. I ususally make it go off and can't wait the full 2 minute cause neighbors start to look outside and its annoying as hell but I tested it the other day during the day. made it go off 3 times w/out turning it off my self.

Most parts can be found at track auto or pepboys or any auto store. The hardest part to find is that blue plastic thing (quick splice wire tap) other than that it should be very easy to find.

Sensor can be ordered through autotoys.com its the Dual Stage Shock Sensor 10.95. NOT the OEM ADD ON SHOCK SENSOR which is 30 dollars.
Those fookers at autotoys look like they jacked the price up from 4 weeks ago. It was 7.95 now its 9.95 for single stage. I like the dual stage because it can ignore the first weak shock and trigger only on hard impact. both single and dual shocks have adjustable knobs and 2 leds showing them triggering, easy for testing and adjusting.

Im also thinking of adding the motion sensor(for someone shaking the car or jacking it up) and may be even adding a glass breakage sensor.

Like I said, call me if you need help.

 

oh i think i kinda forgot to answer your question. The reason for the 30 seconds is, the STOCK alarm doesn't arm until 30 seconds so anything attached to the stock alarm will not work. and when the alarm does go off it goes off for a full 2:00 unless you press unlock on your remote or stick the key in. also the alarm stays on until you unlock your car.

 

Dude, the only part I dont understand is this:

"splice it w/ a knife and use the quick splice wiretap to tap it. (the wire is so think the quick splice can't splice it). after you connect the wiretap(blue plastic piece ) get the blue/white wire that you connected and plug the male piece into the quicksplice wiretap."

Can you be more specific please?
Does male prong fit into quick splice wiretap??
so whats the schematics,
Wire tapping blue & white wire into yellow wire?

Sorry, I am just confused about this part.
Thanks

 

Yes, the blue/white taps into the yellow wire. you can just splice right into it but the quick splice wire tap makes it a cleaner install. its the blue piece in the 3rd pic. it folds in half and snaps on, then the male piece slides in.

 

[ 08-25-2001: Message edited by: NOVAwhiteTypeS ]

 

Does anyone know how come I can't see the pictures anymore and only the icons where the pictures used to be?

Thanks.

 

Why would you also add a glass break, won't the force of the broken glass also set off the shock sensor?

And the red wire, are you plugging it into a general power slot, or is that slot only for the alarm?

If its a general power slot, is there also a slot available that is ignition-on only? Would be good to hook by V1 into.

 

Will this void waranty???
Lets say something goes wrong with car's electric stuff, as soon as they see something connected to wires, they will say its your fault even though it is not?

 

heres another pic to clear things up. the blue thing smack in the middle of the page shows how the quick splice taps in. all you do now is just plug teh male connecter in to that.

 

its a general power slot.

and for the v1 or any radar dectector i tapped in to the actual fuse, the heated side view mirror to be exact. I got a flat metal piece stuck it between the fuse and just plugged the fuse back in to its slot. then used the same ground as the shock sensor.

 

I just found out what to look for to know if the alarm armed or not. Close the door and press lock on your remote. Look at the security LED on the driver door. Right after you press lock, the LED blinks slowly. After about 30 secs, it blinks faster. That's when the system is armed.

Joe, great instructions. you filled everything that I left out. Maybe I'll leave the templates to you from now on . Hey dude, when I looked at the pics, I thought you just purchased a Radio Shack store . You dont need that many things. just a screw driver, 10mm socket, wire stripper and some e-tape.

 

okay...i got my dual shock sensor today. i'm not sure if it's DEI...there's no label or maker on it but i ordered it from autotoys.com.

got a couple of questions. first, the wires are red, black, green, blue. red for power (i know where that goes), black for ground (i guess in can connect to the chasis), green and blue for the sensors...which i connect to the yellow wire nova was referring to. that's where i need help. i looked under the steering wheel and there's a whole boat load of wires...sevral yellow ones with grey dots too. can someone tell me which one i tap into. or let me know from what bundle of wires. i noticed that most of the wires go into those green plastic connectors. can someone tell me which one i use. or what green connector to take the yellow wire from. NOVA...SILVERKNIGHT!!! thanks!

 

Im gonna snap pics right now but don't have time to post it up. it'll be up by tommrow morning latest.

 

FAQ'd

 

Hey i was just on that site and I could not find the $15 shock sensor, instead this one for $10 was the only one I saw.
http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront

Will this one work with our cl-s's?

 

if u look under the dash you will see a big group of wires tied w/ electrical tape. you might have to cut this to find it. I found it very easily on SpeedRacers ride. Ignore the BIG red wire that's my wire for my amp.
Once u cut the black electrical tape you should find a solid yellow wire w/ silver dots on it. after u find it kinda trace it to make sure its going back to the back of the fuse box. You won't be able to trace it all the way back but as long as its going up to the rear then its the right one.

If u need more help or can't find the yellow wire go w/ silverKnights instruction and take the fuse box and all the prongs out.

 

BUMP ^^^^^^^

Well, Does anyone know the answer to my Shock Sensor purchasing question?
Thanks

 

that's the one i got....total was $15 with shipping. i haven't installed it yet but will try to do it this weekend.