The thermostat question made me wonder if the 1.3kg/cm3 Mugen radiator cap made a noticeable difference? (I know it describes it as raising the boiling point of the coolant.) Anyone using it?

 

I want to, but not sure if it will fit. Keep us all posted.

 

not mugen but see sig does it work sure it works...does it make a difference not sure but error on the side of caution i always say

 

woops

 

Are you the one in the Sunset that I raced before on Sunset???

 

I have it, it works, and it fits.

 

How much did you pay Astro? Where did you get it?

 

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/produ...n/accessories/

Email these guys..they have it..and great cusomer service too.

im going to order one too

 

I got it from my friend Eric in Vancouver....

 

can you hook us up?

 

got mine from nopi 1.38 its a euro typeR cap....25$

 

I will find out how much.

 

the original receipt shows it for $49.00 CDN.

it was bought thru www.aj-racing.com

 

thanks astrol for the link!!

 

Oh yea...I tried to PM you one time...the Tein I have is the same model as the Accord and the TL.

 

What is it listed under?

 

thanks! Still waiting for another group buy for the Teins

 

What does this mugen cap do(in layman's terms)? How is it beneficial to the car?

 

It fits and it works...but the question is "how significant is the effect?"

 

Think of it like a "pressure cooker"...

Increase the pressure and water boils at a higher temp AND, it keeps the "bubbles" around the engine passeges in the block and head from forming (well, from forming as easily)..

A Mr. Wizard experiment would show something like this:

Take a pot with a clear, high temp plastic plate to view water boiling at the bottom of a "plain old" metal pot sitting on a stove with a gas burner underneath. There would need to be a adjustable pressure cap (like a pressure cooker) that you could set from 0lbs to xxx-lbs.

The pot is filled with water and the water stats to bubble at the bottom of the pot (you will see tiny bubbles only at the bottom). At this point in the experiment, there is no pressure since the "pressure limiter/valve" is NOT set (no pressurization is possible at this point as the steam is free to leave with out any impediment).

Now, the flame is left alone, but the pressure valve is turned up to allow pressure to build up. AS the pressure builds up, the bubbling at the bottom stops.

Now, we can turn up the heat (with the current pressure setting). AS the heat is turned up, the water starts forming small bubbles at the bottom (again). AS the pressure valve is turned up, the bubbling stops (again). (This process can be repeated until the maximum pressure of the pressure valve is reached…)

Those bubbles at the bottom create a "layer" of gas that prevents good heat transfer between an engine's walls (or the pots bottom) and the rest of the water. By turning up the pressure, the bubbles do not form and it allows the water (in a liquid state) to remain in contact with the metal surface. Liquid water conducts heat better than water in a gaseous state. By increasing the radiator cap's pressure, it allows for 1) a higher water temp to be reached before it turns to vapor AND 2) it allows the better conduction of the heat away from the engine.

More heat being removed from the engine and heads == cooler engine surfaces and denser air and more HP/TQ!

And, if HP is not a concern, the increase temperature of the water (or glycol/water mix) allows a higher temperature to be reached and this allows a higher difference in temperature between a radiator and the surrounding air; this increase in temperature differential leads to increased cooling (the amount of cooling or heat that can be moved is influenced by the temperature of the radiator and the surrounding air. (THIS is not the reason most of the people here are looking at this fix...)

BTW, the product, "Water Wetter", by Redline also helps to prevent "foaming" inside the engine. It along with a high pressure radiator cap can help to improve heat transfer from the engine and cylinder head.

Downside --> if a system can NOT take a particular pressure, it is possible to blow stuff up -- like hoses and gaskets (among other things).


LINKS:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm...t/techtip2.asp

 

Look at Redline's Water Wetter page -- it has a similar "effect."

LINK: http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm

As to how effective -- it depends on how hot the junction of the head (or engine) surfaces are relative to the water. AND, once you get some heating started, and bubbles form, it can create a "thermal runaway" situation, where you can overheat an engine (stay away from that thought for day-to-day engine operation -- ok?)

So, it depends... (And before pressurized cooling systems came into being, engines just couldn't put out much power and would overheat like crazy).

And, the less bubbles, higher pressure without breaking/bursting – the better…

 

Hey astro, the link doesnt work for some reason..
is that a canadian site?

 

werks fer me

 

shit could it be because im behind a firewall at work?

 

just got an email from them
they are asking 63 CDN+shipping

 

It's $29 at this site.

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/produ...tl/engine.html

 

Yep, they got them in stock...


Who's going to be the "pioneer" in the thermostat department. They said you have to "look" to see what thermostat you need (there are two possibles for the Accord...)

Aaargggghhh....

 

eric L what are you talking about? stat or cap im cunfused ive had a 1.38 cap for a year and im all over a stat and fan switch

 

I already have a cap quote -- I wanted to get the correct part numbers on the STAT and FAN SWITCH.

(BOTH 80-degree C versions).

Do you have the part #s and can you reply here?

When I called http://www.kingmotorsports.com/ by phone today, the sales guy said that he didn't have the exact part #s even for Accords (He said that they came in two flavors and he recommended taking out the OEM part to make sure they could get the right piece out to me).

Here's what I got -- could you comment and give me the parts that you know work:

CAP:
This is supposed to be a no-brainer (and is the cap):

Radiator CAP (same as TL) ==> 19045-XGER-0000 $29.00 (1.3Kg)

Right/wrong???

80-degree C Fan switch
37773-XGMR-0000 $45.00 --> 80-degree C switch for the Accord (CL/CLS???)

Note: two switches are shown on the Accord page, but he said this should work on the CLS.


80-degree C thermostat:

The thermo is NOT shown on the Accord page and I was told that I would need to look at mine to make sure I got the right one. He said the Accord use two different ones. I'm just repeating what he told me and was hoping someone would KNOW the right part # for the THERMOSTAT...

-????-

 

So, if I replace the OEM cap with the Mugen one, will it marginally prolong the longevity of my engine/car...since I don't really drive it hard? Or is it just significantly effective from a performance standpoint?

 

I drive pretty easy (90% of the time) and haven't been burned yet by putting slightly higher pressure radiator caps on my cars.

Cap alone? Hard to say... if you never drove the car hard, I'd say "forget about it..."



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