2001CL

Does leaving the cruise control button drain the battery?

I did that once before and my battery died, but i bought the car used so i dont know.

Since then i've left it on a couple times and it took a little longer to start?

Feedback is welcome.

kensteele

I don't believe so. Mine has been on for over 50,000 miles and I still have the same OEM original battery.

wayneg

No- it won't kill the battery.

JasonT

I don't see how. It's turned off when the car turns off.

kensteele

Spoke too soon. Not the cruise control but all the other junk I have in my car.

My battery died this morning...suddenly. Early first thing when I got up and started my car it was a bit sluggish (to start up) cause I thought it was cold. Make one stop, came back outside, click click click click click..... $75 for a new battery at the Acura dealership.

EricL

Did you know that the Delcos (used in the stock Acuras) came in last or close to last in Consumer Reports (10/02) recent car battery tests?

CHECK THE GREEN DOTS!!!!

(They didn't test group 24 batteries)

Group 75
Diehard WeatherHandler #1
...
ACDelco Professional dead last


Group 65
Diehard Gold #1
...
ACDelco Professional dead last


Group 35
Diehard WetherHandler (South) #1
...
Durlast Gold (North) dead last

Group 34 (A 1" spacer will allow this to "fit" nicely))
Motorcraft Test Tough Max #1
Optima Red Top #2
DurlaLast Gold (North)
...
ACDelco 2nd to the last

The "green eye" (charge indicator) is nice. However, it's not so nice if the car is dead!

"Which battery will go the distance in your vehicle? Our new battery-life test, (see the Ratings), can help you find out. The first published anywhere for consumers, our test measures how many drain-and-recharge cycles a battery can handle in hot conditions before it cannot produce its rated output for 30 seconds. While more demanding than highway use, the test mimics the way in which many cars are driven, and is revealing:

The longest-lived batteries lasted nine times as long as those that failed early.

Sears' Diehard batteries lived up to their promise in our tests, consistently providing long life across sizes. Shortest-lived: the size-35 Champion and Duralast Gold models, despite Champion's long total coverage and Duralast's compelling ads.

The Optima Red Top 34/78-1050 was another long-lived battery. As we found in a previous battery test, Optimas use a spiral-wound cell design said to provide longer life than conventional cells. But at $140, this model costs roughly twice as much as most.

Larger batteries tended to outlast smaller ones in our tests. But because batteries are sized for different vehicles, choices are limited to those that fit what you drive--a key reason our life-test and other scores are relative to others within group sizes.

Several other factors make some auto batteries a better bet for your vehicle.

THE TESTS, THE RESULTS

We evaluated 34 auto batteries in five group sizes that cover many of the cars and trucks on the road. Group size 75 fits mainly four- and six-cylinder General Motors cars, while group size 65 applies to most large six- and eight-cylinder Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars and trucks. Group size 35 fits newer Hondas, Nissans, and Toyotas. Group size 34 fits most Chrysler vehicles, while group size 34/78 can replace size 34 batteries in Chrysler cars and size 78 batteries in GM vehicles, thanks to two sets of terminals. Because some brands sell northern and southern variations of a model for cold and hot climates, we tested both when available. While each version is sold only in its region, our tests found lots of strong choices that are available everywhere.

Going the distance. We placed the batteries in 167' F water to approximate and maintain the hot underhood environment where most car batteries live. Then we cycled them back and forth between 4 minutes of 25-amp discharging and 10 minutes of 25-amp recharging for 100 hours total to simulate the demands of stop-and-go traffic. After a 60-hour rest, batteries were checked to see whether they provided their rated cold-cranking amps for 30 seconds at 167' F. Batteries whose voltage dropped below 7.2 volts--an industry standard--failed, while others endured additional discharge-recharge cycles until they also failed. Batteries in this condition would register as dead and would not start a car.

Longest-lived was the group size 75 Diehard WeatherHandler (South) 30375, which averaged 9 cycles compared with just 1 for the group size 35 Duralast Gold (North) 35-DG. That doesn't mean the Diehard will last 9 times as long on the road, since what, where, and how you drive all affect battery life. But you can boost your odds of buying a long-lasting model by choosing a top performer from within your car's group size.

Added backup time. Reserve capacity is also important because it reflects how long a fully charged battery can run your vehicle's electrical system if the alternator stops working. It also determines how long your car can endure idling with the air-conditioner and stereo going--or with the lights on and the engine off--before the battery runs down. Our test, performed at 80' F, measures how long batteries provide 25 amps before their voltage drops below 10.5 volts, the industry test standard.

Reserve capacity ranged from 60 to 147 minutes overall, with the larger, group size 65 and 75 batteries providing the most. While the 60 minutes we got from some of the small, group size 35 batteries is on the low side, it should be enough to get you to safety.

Beating the cold. Cold-cranking amps (CCA) denote a battery's starting current at 0' F. We gauge CCA by measuring how long a battery can provide half of its rated current before its voltage drops to 7.2 volts. Batteries that scored highest in this test best meet their manufacturer-claimed CCA rating. Even those that scored only fair for CCA should start most vehicles in frigid weather, however. Buying more CCA than specified for your vehicle is a waste of money and can result in shorter battery life.

RECOMMENDATIONS

Our life-test results should make choosing a battery easier, but they aren't the whole story. Check the battery group size and CCA for your vehicle, usually found in your owner's manual or a battery catalog at the store (see How to read a battery). Then choose a battery that scored well overall.

Among group size 75 batteries, the Diehard WeatherHandler (South) 30375, $60, combines lots of reserve capacity with the highest overall life-test score. Also worth considering, and available nationwide, is the NAPA The Legend 75 Professional Line 7575, $60, which scored lower in our life test but higher for CCA and reserve capacity.

Among group size 65 batteries, we recommend the Diehard Gold (South) 33165, $80, for warm climates and the Exide Nascar Select 65-84N, $90, for other parts of the country. While both provide superb CCA performance, the Exide is sold in the cold-weather areas, where cranking power is most needed.

Few of the smallest, group size 35 batteries did well in our life test. But the top-rated Diehard WeatherHandler (South) 30335, $60, and Exide Nascar Select 35-84N, $80, offer a good balance of life-test and other performance.

Among the two group size 34 Sears models, the Diehard WeatherHandler (North) 30034, $60, did well in all three key performance areas. Southern buyers can get similar overall performance with a top-scoring size 34/78 battery, which will fit the same vehicles.

The group size 34/78 Optima Red Top 34/78-1050, $140, was among the longest-lasting batteries in our tests. But the top-rated Motorcraft Test Tough Max BXT-3478, $80, and high-rated Duralast Gold (North) 34DT-DGN, $75, lasted nearly as long and delivered more reserve capacity for far less money.

Once you've chosen a new battery, make sure your old one is properly recycled--now a requirement in most states--by leaving it with the store or service station, or at a hazardous-materials collection center. According to the Battery Council International, an industry trade group, auto batteries are among the most recycled products, with some 93 percent of the lead and plastic from old batteries reused. Finally, play it safe by carrying jumper cables or a battery booster (see our January 2002 battery boosters report)--just in case...."

shaHn78

ACDelco batteries suck. I dont know why anyone would get another one after having experienced it once.

The green light is USELESS. It'll remain green even if ur battery is on its last leg or completely dead. Its SUPPOSE to measure something else in the batter which really doesnt matter if ur car wont even start

EricL

I would prefer a better battery and it’s on my list, but the green eye worked for me. I even watched it change from black to green with charging current and voltage.

It will tell you the current state of charge if you don't have a voltmeter handy. It only measures the charge in one cell, so if you have a shorted or discharged/dead cell elsewhere in the battery , you’re out of luck (there are 6 individual cells in a typical lead-acid battery)

I can give you an "equivalent" test for the green light indicator that I've used for all my cars:

If you turn on all of your electronic gear (seats, mirrors, defroster, lights, high-beams, etc) and start the car, you might be able to get a slight stumble (from a low-battery/"discharged state"). The "green eye" will be black. (I know 'cause I had it happen!!!!)

Charging the battery with a good fast charger takes care of turning the eye back to green and it actually looks partially black/green just before it gets a mediocre charge in it. I speak from experience...

It WILL NOT TELL YOU HOW MANY CYCLES ARE LEFT IN THE BATTERY -- ONLY THE CURRENT STATE OF CHARGE.

So, if you are willing to turn on all of the electrical accessories and start the car and see if the starter will turn over quickly with a cold engine, you don't need the stupid green eye. Otherwise, it will indicate that the battery needs a charge or a good run at 3000+ rpm for an hour or two!

IMO, the battery otherwise sucks...

kensteele

Yeah, the CL battery sucks. The eye was green. The battery was still dead.

But I bought a new OEM battery from Acura anyway.

The new one works just fine. If I can get 3 more years out of it, I'm fine.