DEPRESSED!!! 221WHP with SUPERCHARGER!!!???!!!
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09-07-2007, 02:16 PM
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09-07-2007, 02:32 PM
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09-07-2007, 02:46 PM
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yea I'd get a second dyno somewhere else...from the look of your second video...I think your pulling down more than 216 whp.
Of course if you drive it like you did in the 2nd video all the time I wouldn't be surprised something might be broken...ha.
Kinda does sound funny when it idles. Might just need a good tune.
Of course if you drive it like you did in the 2nd video all the time I wouldn't be surprised something might be broken...ha.
Kinda does sound funny when it idles. Might just need a good tune.
09-07-2007, 03:41 PM
#50
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So which one are you, Starsky or Hutch?
Dont think i could do that to my CL..
09-07-2007, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Paclark01
If you are running the standard pulley the IMRC does not need to be disconnected. Make sure you are running premium fuel (91 octane or higher). If you are putting down numbers like that you need to check to make sure the IMRC is opening at above 3800 rpm. The easiest way to check is by opening the hood, reving the engine and looking at the back of motor to make sure the butterfly opens.
Did you install colder plugs as well?
I forgot to add... Get a set of used Comptech Headers... The stock headers are not going to give you the gains you are looking for.
Did you install colder plugs as well?
I forgot to add... Get a set of used Comptech Headers... The stock headers are not going to give you the gains you are looking for.
.I have an extra set i will sell you for $250. they are the DC sports headers
Two 3-1 Ceramic Headers, One Piece HHC5528 Regular price $446.99
Just bought them this year
Let me know!! You can have them put on by saturday night for the cruise!!
PM me or call me if you want
EDIT: Per forum rules. *BigLizard*
09-08-2007, 01:15 AM
#60
Check to see if any of your intake pieces especially the rubber bellows are disconnected and collapsing within themselves restricting air flow, (seen it happen before).
Also check what kind of ignition timing you are running and what the voltage is coming from the MAP sensor.
Also check what kind of ignition timing you are running and what the voltage is coming from the MAP sensor.
09-08-2007, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by New Image
I just got an AEM EUGO a/f meter with wideband. ill be installing it and checking my a/f ratio.
so i hear it should be in the low 12s?
so i hear it should be in the low 12s?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio
09-08-2007, 02:38 PM
#64
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
my advice: sell your parts and sell your cl.
09-08-2007, 05:47 PM
#65
Originally Posted by New Image
have you checked out the video on page two?
Usually the loss of power in mid band happens when the Emanage or any other tuning hardware, no longer is clamping the MAP voltage properly and is puling timing like crazy. There more reasons obviously why your ECU could be pulling timing but thats one to look at for sure, especially if you have a surge at 5000 which usually indicates that VTEC is correcting the problem as in Siggys case when VTEC adjusted the timing on his car back to where it should be.
09-09-2007, 05:19 PM
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Why would you purchase a mechanical fuel pressure gauge? Are you planning on mounting it on the hood outside the car like an old-school Dodge? You need a electrical fuel pressure gauge.
Although fuel pressure is not the issue here because you are not running lean. What is the voltage clamp (ESM) set to? Is the bypass valve operating normally? Where are you measuring boost from?
221whp is about what a stock 6-speed will put down. Also, the curve on your dyno is showing something is not kosher. It should be very smooth not all over the place. Did you test with a scan tool to check IAT and timing?
Although fuel pressure is not the issue here because you are not running lean. What is the voltage clamp (ESM) set to? Is the bypass valve operating normally? Where are you measuring boost from?
221whp is about what a stock 6-speed will put down. Also, the curve on your dyno is showing something is not kosher. It should be very smooth not all over the place. Did you test with a scan tool to check IAT and timing?
09-10-2007, 12:03 AM
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hummm.. I think you should just give it to me. The supercharger is known to work better on Silver CL-S 
Good luck. I would get it dyno'd somewhere else. a second opinion would never hurt.
Good luck. I would get it dyno'd somewhere else. a second opinion would never hurt.
09-10-2007, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Yeah I have its hard to see if anything is occuring with the intake system.
Usually the loss of power in mid band happens when the Emanage or any other tuning hardware, no longer is clamping the MAP voltage properly and is puling timing like crazy. There more reasons obviously why your ECU could be pulling timing but thats one to look at for sure, especially if you have a surge at 5000 which usually indicates that VTEC is correcting the problem as in Siggys case when VTEC adjusted the timing on his car back to where it should be.
Usually the loss of power in mid band happens when the Emanage or any other tuning hardware, no longer is clamping the MAP voltage properly and is puling timing like crazy. There more reasons obviously why your ECU could be pulling timing but thats one to look at for sure, especially if you have a surge at 5000 which usually indicates that VTEC is correcting the problem as in Siggys case when VTEC adjusted the timing on his car back to where it should be.
I checked my intake plumbing and all is fine.
09-10-2007, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Why would you purchase a mechanical fuel pressure gauge? Are you planning on mounting it on the hood outside the car like an old-school Dodge? You need a electrical fuel pressure gauge.
Although fuel pressure is not the issue here because you are not running lean. What is the voltage clamp (ESM) set to? Is the bypass valve operating normally? Where are you measuring boost from?
221whp is about what a stock 6-speed will put down. Also, the curve on your dyno is showing something is not kosher. It should be very smooth not all over the place. Did you test with a scan tool to check IAT and timing?
Although fuel pressure is not the issue here because you are not running lean. What is the voltage clamp (ESM) set to? Is the bypass valve operating normally? Where are you measuring boost from?
221whp is about what a stock 6-speed will put down. Also, the curve on your dyno is showing something is not kosher. It should be very smooth not all over the place. Did you test with a scan tool to check IAT and timing?
Tonite I will be removing the valve covers and adjusting my valve gap clearance. If anyone knows what the gapping is for intake and exhaust valves please let me know. If the gapping is the same across the j30 and j32 motor, then I have the numbers. I would just like to double check b4 starting tonite.
09-10-2007, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
Why would you purchase a mechanical fuel pressure gauge? Are you planning on mounting it on the hood outside the car like an old-school Dodge? You need a electrical fuel pressure gauge.
Although fuel pressure is not the issue here because you are not running lean. What is the voltage clamp (ESM) set to? Is the bypass valve operating normally? Where are you measuring boost from?
221whp is about what a stock 6-speed will put down. Also, the curve on your dyno is showing something is not kosher. It should be very smooth not all over the place. Did you test with a scan tool to check IAT and timing?
Although fuel pressure is not the issue here because you are not running lean. What is the voltage clamp (ESM) set to? Is the bypass valve operating normally? Where are you measuring boost from?
221whp is about what a stock 6-speed will put down. Also, the curve on your dyno is showing something is not kosher. It should be very smooth not all over the place. Did you test with a scan tool to check IAT and timing?
I have no idea what the voltage clamp is set to. I didnt check it, and figured it was pre-set. Bypass is functional and I am measuring boost from the vacuum line coming from the blower to the IM
09-10-2007, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NightRider
09-10-2007, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Check to see if any of your intake pieces especially the rubber bellows are disconnected and collapsing within themselves restricting air flow, (seen it happen before).
Also check what kind of ignition timing you are running and what the voltage is coming from the MAP sensor.
Also check what kind of ignition timing you are running and what the voltage is coming from the MAP sensor.
09-10-2007, 03:12 PM
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09-10-2007, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SPoolinspOON
I always thought that around 11.5 was idel.
If you were at 11.5 at idle your car would be throwing codes and stalling like crazy.
In closed loop you will be at/around 14.7 (stoichiometric).
EDIT: Just realized you meant to say "ideal" and not "idle."
An ideal AFR would be 11.5-12.2
09-10-2007, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by New Image
I have no idea what the voltage clamp is set to. I didnt check it, and figured it was pre-set. Bypass is functional and I am measuring boost from the vacuum line coming from the blower to the IM
Probably a good idea for you to check the voltage clamp.
Doing a run with a scan tool connected to the OBD-2.