Seat pressure: approx 71 @ 39.9mm
Spring coil bind: 27.6mm
Max net lift: 12.3mm

The kit comes with titanium retainers. They havent updated their site yet, but those are the specs.

 

i didnt press the valve down. i do all my own work so the only thing i would need to pay for is the valve. in which case i would get some custom ones made.

 

whats oem? whats the price?

 

I cant seem to locate the stock specs other then spring lengths. I saw the whole kit for $600 shipped. It is a bit pricey.

 

pricey in deed.

anyway. everything is back together. adjusted valves within specs. put still have the same ticking noise as when i got the car. a friend (acura master tech) told me that he has done many valve adjustment and it still ticks on the 6spd's. my valve adjustments werent off at all (maybe one or two) but they were all within specs.

but i have no loud ticking as before. so off to a quick test drive i go.

 

Good luck. Are you sure the ticking isnt from the injectors?

 

im not sure. it get faster as i rev the engine so it might be the injectors. how would i know?

 

does it sound liek it sounded the other day?

 

u head it on ideal right alex? no loud ticking anymore like when the roller was cracked pulls strong as hell tho.

 

lol roll by. haha

 

If you have an automotive stethoscope you can listen using that to find out where exactly the noise is coming from.

If you didnt bend the valves you should play lotto. Youre real lucky.

 

i think i will buy a ticker. 18million. ill buy all the new acuras and a few nsx's (spoon nsx also)

 

Someones gotta do it

Lol. If I had that kind of money Id buy 2 NSXs. One to keep stock, the other to build into a monster. Along with various motorcycles, a Lotus Elise with a turbo'd K24/20 frankenstein motor, and a built S2000.

I have dreams.

 

^same here, now to go buy some lotto tickets.

 

Did you ever do that compression test if so what were the results

 

Doing the test today evening. I was in a hurry to get the car runnning. So I skiped that step yesterday.


Update:
I drove the car to work today, hauls ass in every gear, but still have that ticking noise, its a tad bit louder than before. Are the specs diff. From a P to an S to 6spd? I think I'm gonna have to readjust my valves again

 

specs on the p and s are different.

 

What are the specs on both?

 

i dont know the S but the tl-p specs are in my DIY

 

well, drove the car home, the ticking isnt as loud as before. its actually quieter than when i got the car. so im thinking its the injectors. anyway, the car pulls hard at about 3200-3500rpm (imrc activating?)and them pulls even harder when vtec engages, havent felt it pull like that before.

so out of this problem i had might have come good out of it.

 

i dunno about anyone else, but that's how my cl-s has been since i started modding it. I love it.

it's all about the v-tec, but the tq is there from 3500-5000, imho

 

Checked my helms manual for ya. Under valve clearance adjustment it doesn't have separate charts for P or S.
However in the valve inspection/removal section they have two charts showing the dimensions for both S and P motors. Turns out the only difference's are on the intake valves of the S motor. (longer & wider). But after reading over the whole cylinder head chapter I see no other mention of different specs for the two motors. So the adjustment specs seem to be the same for both. They are as follows:
Intake 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)

Compression is 135 psi.

Good luck and I hope they are all working fine for ya so you can get back to building the beast!

 

im letting the car cool off after an hour of abuse. the gonna pull out the front 3 spark plugs and check the compression.

 

my comp on all cylinders was 130-132

i thought it was low but the post above shows me why im putting down more power than most

 

am i doing something wrong?
engine was really warm to touch. tested the compression on cylinder 4,5,6 (front)
i kept cranking it till it didnt go any higher. my results:
4- 210psi
5- 190psi
6- 230psi
didnt check teh backs bc its a pita and im tired of working on it, yes somehow im tired of the car for today.
am i supposed to do it when engine is cold?

 

well. i just read the service manual and it says to have the throttle open all the way. i didnt do that, so tomorrow ill recheck the compression at WOT.

 

I believe so.

 

bc i read the service manual and it says to do it when engine is at normal operating temp and crank the car while ur at wot. ill do what it says and see what i get.

 

yup that's how u suppose to do it. i know on the legend compression spec is ~190+-20, u really don't want to ever see more then 20+- variation btwn any single cylinder.

 

let me know if you need a hand, im on leave from work since i had too many vacation days saved up so i took off a month, hit me up if you need some grunt work.

 

its just some minor things that i can handle.

for use is +-28 psi between cylinders

 

well, its been a few days. hows it running? any updates?? there's an autox on the 20th at maywood btw

 

well havent touched the car. car runs great and strong, especially with my new test pipe in. i will be putting in gaskets in for the test pipe, it sounds like u car alex with the header cracked. i will be doing that and valve adjustment tomorrow.

 

dude, my car is SOO quiet now with the header fixed, and the cold air box reduced intake noise, which reduced exhaust noise. it was bearly audible at 80mph with the windows up

 

nice. i need to fix mine, but it sounds mean

 

i used the wrong feeler gauges (fml) so it was ticking. now i used the right feeler gauges and its all quiet except for the ps pump noise. it makes a noise every time i turn the wheel. and makes a loud squeal when i lock the steering wheel from one side to another.

no sound from valves, so its all good.