Ok, well just like the title states, I wanted to do a compression test on my car and decided to make a video.

A couple side notes. The compression of all cylinders should be within 10% of each other. The baseline of the J32a2 (Type S) is a max of 240 I think, if someone can verify this for me I'd appreciate it.

The compression gauge was purchased from Advance Auto Parts for $26.

If you have any questions just let me know.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5gy8UcW5YM

 

Great post. Good way to find out if you have a healthy engine.

 

Great vid. If any members have a rough running engine and you have proven every cylinder is getting fuel, spark and correct time (timing belt) then this is the next step. Low compression values can mean burnt valve, blown head gasket, hole in a piston, bad ring or even a cracked block. The six compression values can be written down and compared. Hope I didn't forget too much.

 

Thanks, Ive been having engine problems and found my compression to run from 200-210 on all cylinders so I'm kind of baffled.

Oh ya, don't forget to watch the video in HD too, this way you can see how dirty my engine actually is.

 

Nope, those were all good additions. I was going to show how the compression increases if you would add a little oil to the spark plug area but I didn't have the patience to do that.

 

Great DIY! Thanks!

 

Nice vid pits... Those numbers seem within normal limits and consistent. Maybe one of the other members like NVA-AV6 can chime in with their experience in this regard. He may be able to point you in a direction not considered to this point. Hell, depending on how far he is from your location, it might be worth it to pay him a visit for an accurate diagnosis.

 

Ohh, no I didn't mean Im baffled that the readings are low. The 210-220 ratings are very consistent and exactly what you should be looking for on an engine with over 200k on it.

What I meant I am baffled about is I am having a loud loud tick from the engine after it was rebuilt a few months ago. I am baffled that I am getting such good compression readings when I am guessing that I have a head issue.


I just didn't clarify properly.

 

I gotcha

That's what I'm saying. In lieu of your reasonable compression results and the repair work performed earlier, the presence of the ticking noise may point to a loose/cracked rocker arm assembly, rocker arm shaft, spring etc. IIRC, you mentioned that your MPG's on the highway went down to a number you have'nt experienced prior to the rebuild. Or it may be, as you mentioned the dealer stated, that the engine has 200K and it, the noise, should be expected. However, I want to believe that these J engines are just getting broken in with 200K, especially with non-abused highway miles. hehe.

Email NVA-AV6, he's a J-series oracle and could benefit your cause.

 

Ahh, one thing I forgot to mention in the video is that you want to hold down the gas peddle all the way down while you crank the engine. Not sure if the mods can include this in my first post on this thread.

Thanks

 

Nice vid

BTW, the measurements are PSI

 

Haha, ya you caught me when I went blank at the end of the video and my mind was thinking foot/lbs cause I was thinking of my torque wrench.

Damn, I was hoping no one would have noticed, lol.

 

Its cool.

 

Can you do a compression test w/o an intake? I have a supercharger blocking 3 of my sparkplugs.

 

You can do the rear bank but will need to pull the blower to compression test the front bank.

 

Ya, I was a little confused too. But I don't have a SC so I didn't want to chime in and give the wrong answer.

 

if I pull the blower out, there will be no connection to an intake which is why I ask.

 

OK - I understand the basis for your question better now - my fault.

The purpose of opening up the throttle all the way is to provide unrestricted intake into the cylinder. With the blower removed, you get that by default.