I just recently purchased a 2003 Acura CL Type-S 6 speed. I've noticed something that seems strange to me with the parking brake. If I park on a slight incline, and pull up the hand brake before taking my foot off of the brake pedal, then when I release the brake pedal, the car moves about an inch before being stopped by the hand brake. Once it has grabbed, it seems to hold securely, so I don't think it is a matter of needing to be adjusted?

I've never experienced this with any other car, so I'm not sure if it is a problem, or just a peculiarity of this particular brake system.

Do other CL6MT owners experience this same thing?

Thanks.

 

Looks like a mod moved your thread while i was replying

There are 2 drum brakes, one per rear wheel, which engage when you set the parking brake. When you first come to a stop I assume you're using your disc brakes (brake pedal) to stop the car. When you release the brake pedal, the car will move slightly until the drum brakes catch hold and keep your car in place. Nothing to worry about.

If you feel you need to adjust your parking brake, there is a floor-panel inside your center console you can remove to adjust the tension on the parking brake cables.

 

that happens on mine only if I let off the brake peddle prior to pulling up the handle. If I keep my foot on the brake peddle as I pull up the handle, then the car does not move at all.
Manitou; ClS 6speed 107,000miles just replaced two coils for 1&2 cylindors:comptech sways, springs,exhaust and headers, illumina shocks,beefed up brakes, P2R spacer etc.,AEM intake Sun Ground system, Motegi Lites 17X8w/Goodyear assymetrics 235X45.
P2r clutch w/stock flywheel. Runs like a charm.

 

Forgot ....also has UR Crank Pully and AEM pullys

 

Cool, thanks for the explanation.

 

That's the "minor" adjustment... if you use that one MAKE SURE that the rear parking brakes don't drag when the hand brake is in the released position... Dealer fucked up my brakes on the 15K maintenace by incorrectly adjusting the brakes.

The real adjustment is in the rear... see post #3 (or buy the Helms manual).

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/need-help-2-questions-439499/

 

I've never noticed it...

When I park I step on the brake, put the clutch in, set parking brake and put the car in gear.

 

Maybe I am a dumba$$, but I am taking it that adjusting the parking brake on an auto is the same?

 

On my 5AT...

I have the same problem and always feel that the transmission seems to stop the car not the brake!

Think that isn't good!

 

AMEN to that brutha! Hell, I can drive with my ebrake engaged, and it doesn't have any drag what so ever! LOL

 

Same thing happens on mine. It's normal for any manual transmission car.

 

Mine too NF3, it seems like the car moves and then the tranny locks.........

 

My parking brake hardly works at all. I ahh accidently left it engaged one time and it hasn't been the same since.

 

Exactly!



I've driven with it on...and then looked at the dash and been like.

Hmm...parking brake is on...whoops!

But yeah...no drag...kind of ridiculous!

 

^ tranny being used as a parking brake = tranny MELTDOWN lol

 

My other manual transmission cars have not done it. I suspect it is what others pointed out, related to the seperate drum brake for the emergency brake. Other cars I've had have either had rear drums for the hydraulic and parking brake (the old "normal" method), or have had the deal where the disc brake calipers are activated by the parking brake cable (and you have to turn the caliper's piston to back it off for changing pads, instead of just compressing it with a c-clamp).

Anyway, I just wanted to confirm that others with the CLs have experienced it, lessening my concern that it is an indication of a problem.

Thanks.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I searched and this is what I found. So is everyone saying that when it does finally grab it is the brake, not the trans engaging from being left in gear?

Mine does the same thing, and every time I am thinking the trans is engaging, causing it to stay still. I was going to take it to see if the parking brake needed adjustment, but if this is normal I won't bother.

On mine, I can pull the e-brake all the way up, let off the brake and roll a tiny bit, then get another click or two on the e-brake and it stays still.

 

6-10 clicks. If it takes more then that it needs adjustment & I strongly recommended the major adjustment done at the rear wheels.
I think even 6 clicks is too many. I really hate the parking brake on this car.

 

Yeah me too. I just did the major adjustment two weekends ago and it's solid finally. E-brake locks in about halfway up (6 clicks or so). Prior to that, I could pull it all the way up and on steep enough inclines it didn't hold

 

Okay, that seems to be what I am experiencing. I think I need to get mine adjusted, because I really have to crank on it to get it to hold, way more than 6 clicks.

 

i never let my car rest completely on the parking brake. i apply the parking brake and throw the car into a low gear.

ive seen parking brakes come loose and cars go bye bye

 

yeah 6 clicks is a liitle much, most cars are around 3-4 clicks

and yeah it would need to be adjusted at the rear brakes, too puch play before the shoes actually engage


for others to adjust, pull off the rear wheels (and have parking brake disengaged once the wheels are off)(also helps if the adjustment at the handle is loosened up too, then use that to just take the slack out of the cables), pull out that little rubber plug in between the wheels studs, make sure it is towards the bottom (adjuster is down towards the bottom), look in with a flashlight for a little star wheel, once found stick a medinum/small screw driver in and turn the outside of the star wheel up (so screw driver handle goes towards bottom) (i may have my directions reversed idk, i do too many different cars at work) adjust till there is a ever so slight drag on them (they just need to be barely touching, just want to get the play out), do other side, check brake handle, if correct then put plug back in and wheels on and lower the car back down


btw starwheel is #10:
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit

 

Yeah you had it right, you turn the wheel so that it spins downward. You can also do it with the rotors off which will make it a lot easier. You can also get a better idea for when it's tight because if you can't put the rotor back on that means you adjusted it too tight.

 

i prefer to only do the coarse adjustment if i happen to have the rotor off, because some cars might have a rust band lip (not normally an issue with parking brake only drums though, but can definetly be with normal drums) so you can not get them even back on with out being loose

 

So how much should I expect to pay at Acura for this?

I'm a new owner so I'd like to take it in for something simple like this at a local dealership and see how well they take care of me. This would give me a good chance to feel them out before having them do something more complex.

 

Ask around and find a good reputable shop in your area instead of a stealership. The work quality will be just as good if not better and you'll pay a LOT less.

 

soooo..... true


most dealers are butchers and just want your money versus to actually try and maintain your car properly (obvisily (sp?) while still trying to make a living at it too)

and alot of the time at the stealership you are paying extra for the "FLASH"/ of the waiting room and such, unless of course you like your free coffee, tv's and such

 

If I want bling in my shop I can just take in my wife's Mercedes lol. Maybe I will try and call the local Acura performance shop, I've been meaning to put a short-throw and S2K knob on it anyways. The wife would never be the wiser