Checking Timing Belt?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Checking Timing Belt?
One more week of midterms and I’ll be able to take some pics and video of the car and a proper introduction.
I was wondering if anything needs to be replaced when doing a visual inspection of the timing belt? I’m dropping the car off at the mechanic on Monday to have a CV joint serviced and I wan’t them to check out the timing belt in order to verify that it has been done by the PO or if I need to shell out the cash for it.
Passanger side is making the clicking noise. What part # is the CV joint and is it best to replace half or whole or both sides? Enlighten me please. I want to buy the part to prevent getting ripped off and to ensure good parts are going in the car.
I was wondering if anything needs to be replaced when doing a visual inspection of the timing belt? I’m dropping the car off at the mechanic on Monday to have a CV joint serviced and I wan’t them to check out the timing belt in order to verify that it has been done by the PO or if I need to shell out the cash for it.
Passanger side is making the clicking noise. What part # is the CV joint and is it best to replace half or whole or both sides? Enlighten me please. I want to buy the part to prevent getting ripped off and to ensure good parts are going in the car.
#2
3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
iTrader: (7)
You can just remove the front camshaft pulley cover ,(5) 10mm bolts) and then you can turn the motor over with the 19mm crankshaft bolt.
That way you can visually inspect belt for free.
just google acura cl passenger axle with your year car and some replacements will come up.
That way you can visually inspect belt for free.
just google acura cl passenger axle with your year car and some replacements will come up.
#3
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Buying an OEM axle is going to run ~$650 with a discount. The pass side is part number 44305-S0K-C11
You can buy the seperate parts and rebuild them though. Unfortunately, the main part you need to replace (the bearing) is only sold with the joint which sells for $260.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
You can buy the seperate parts and rebuild them though. Unfortunately, the main part you need to replace (the bearing) is only sold with the joint which sells for $260.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Last edited by civicdrivr; 02-26-2012 at 12:19 AM.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
You can just remove the front camshaft pulley cover ,(5) 10mm bolts) and then you can turn the motor over with the 19mm crankshaft bolt.
That way you can visually inspect belt for free.
just google acura cl passenger axle with your year car and some replacements will come up.
That way you can visually inspect belt for free.
just google acura cl passenger axle with your year car and some replacements will come up.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Buying an OEM axle is going to run ~$650 with a discount. The pass side is part number 44305-S0K-C11
You can buy the seperate parts and rebuild them though. Unfortunately, the main part you need to replace (the bearing) is only sold with the joint which sells for $260.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
You can buy the seperate parts and rebuild them though. Unfortunately, the main part you need to replace (the bearing) is only sold with the joint which sells for $260.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
![](http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4945/screenshot20120226at135.png)
#6
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (8)
Where are you located? Some of us can u out with what you need to be done. Timing belt service will cost you in honda/acura shop around 600-800$ and at the dealer 800-1200$ parts itself cost around 250-300$ it should be done every 105k or 7years which ever comes first. If you have some basic tools i can provide some pics or info of how to check the belt.
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Where are you located? Some of us can u out with what you need to be done. Timing belt service will cost you in honda/acura shop around 600-800$ and at the dealer 800-1200$ parts itself cost around 250-300$ it should be done every 105k or 7years which ever comes first. If you have some basic tools i can provide some pics or info of how to check the belt.
![Shrug](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif)
![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
So I called Advance and they said 70 for the shaft assembly. The shaft assembly includes the new CV joint components? haha I’m such a noob ![Yes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yes.gif)
Are the parts from Advance just a reliable and robust as OEM? Will OEM be more or less reliable? A better fit? I am like a sponge just trying to absorb as much as possible lol
I am going to hit up Kaleb (WholeSalePartsGuy) for the timing belt kit if needed. Can you give me pictures to check the Timing Belt? Maybe I should do this myself and get over my NOOB stage ha
SO DIY= 300 (kit) and 70 (axle assembly) = around $400
Mechanic= around $1,200
Dealer= don’t even want to know $$$$
![Yes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yes.gif)
Are the parts from Advance just a reliable and robust as OEM? Will OEM be more or less reliable? A better fit? I am like a sponge just trying to absorb as much as possible lol
I am going to hit up Kaleb (WholeSalePartsGuy) for the timing belt kit if needed. Can you give me pictures to check the Timing Belt? Maybe I should do this myself and get over my NOOB stage ha
SO DIY= 300 (kit) and 70 (axle assembly) = around $400
Mechanic= around $1,200
Dealer= don’t even want to know $$$$
#12
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
In my experience, the Auto Zone/Advance Auto axle quality is hit or miss. They do have a lifetime warranty though.
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Whats the consensus on the 2001-2003 3.2 Heml guide? Always had a manual for all the cars I’ve owned. Usually end up using them if I had no money to have the car repaired. DIY is scary to me on this car because I don’t want to eff it up and I’m only used to working on Ford V8’s (such easy cars to work on).
#15
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
These cars are easy to work on as well. A bit daunting at first considering all the electronics, but easy nonetheless.
Get the Helms manual. Its an invaluable resource.
Get the Helms manual. Its an invaluable resource.
#16
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The link below leads to a '99-03 TL manual. It will provide answers if you are able to interpret.
http://home.comcast.net/~amberlani01/ServiceManual.pdf
Good Luck.
http://home.comcast.net/~amberlani01/ServiceManual.pdf
Good Luck.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
The link below leads to a '99-03 TL manual. It will provide answers if you are able to interpret.
http://home.comcast.net/~amberlani01/ServiceManual.pdf
Good Luck.
http://home.comcast.net/~amberlani01/ServiceManual.pdf
Good Luck.
#19
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
There's a reason the aftermarket ones are cheap there are some differences & some things like a balance weight they don't have & a OEM one does.
BTW stop stressing the timing belt. Your not at the mileage. The car will be fine. It's not something that's going to be a problem for you yet.
Last edited by fuzzy02CLS; 02-26-2012 at 10:10 PM.
#20
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
It isn't. My advice spend the dime on good parts. Or you will have to replace the axles again in 50K miles or less.
There's a reason the aftermarket ones are cheap there are some differences & some things like a balance weight they don't have & a OEM one does.
BTW stop stressing the timing belt. Your not at the mileage. The car will be fine. It's not something that's going to be a problem for you yet.
There's a reason the aftermarket ones are cheap there are some differences & some things like a balance weight they don't have & a OEM one does.
BTW stop stressing the timing belt. Your not at the mileage. The car will be fine. It's not something that's going to be a problem for you yet.
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
Dropped the car off today. Does one need to remove the valve cover in order to inspect the timing belt? The mechanic told me today that he might have to.
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Dropped the car off and got it back today. They said they could not reproduce or see and issue with the front axle assembly/ CV joint. Maybe since the car was sitting for a couple months this issue occurred but healed itself. Something I will keep an eye on. Not satisfied with the timing belt inspection. Car went in and out way too fast to check anything. Anyhow, what do I know. THe said it also need a front engine mount.
Quote is $500 on labor only for:
Waterpump
Hydraulic Tensioner
Pulley (?)
Pulley (?)
Timing belt
Camshaft seal
Seal(?)
Engine Mount replacement
Quote is $500 on labor only for:
Waterpump
Hydraulic Tensioner
Pulley (?)
Pulley (?)
Timing belt
Camshaft seal
Seal(?)
Engine Mount replacement
#26
3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
iTrader: (7)
Dropped the car off and got it back today. They said they could not reproduce or see and issue with the front axle assembly/ CV joint. Maybe since the car was sitting for a couple months this issue occurred but healed itself. Something I will keep an eye on. Not satisfied with the timing belt inspection. Car went in and out way too fast to check anything. Anyhow, what do I know. THe said it also need a front engine mount.
Quote is $500 on labor only for:
Waterpump
Hydraulic Tensioner
Pulley (?)
Pulley (?)
Timing belt
Camshaft seal
Seal(?)
Engine Mount replacement
Quote is $500 on labor only for:
Waterpump
Hydraulic Tensioner
Pulley (?)
Pulley (?)
Timing belt
Camshaft seal
Seal(?)
Engine Mount replacement
500 is not a bad deal.
as long as their not jackasses.
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
I called Cartek and spoke to a guy there who gave me a quote of $950 for all the items I mentioned. He said they ONLY use OEM parts which makes me happy. Any other parts/ service that I should have done while thy are doing the work? Also, you think I can go better than OEM parts for extra reliability?
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