I don't remember who it was, but somebody on the board posted dyno results showing +15hp at the wheel from upgrading his catalytic converter.

If installing an upgraded one would increase the power by that much, wouldn't it be a better idea just to remove them altogther? Looking for info.........

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01' CL Type-S, Silver, Navigation, Spoiler
4% tint on the backs and 34% on the fronts
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (2" Drop)
AEM Cold Air Intake
2 JL-Audio 10"xW3 and a MTX 6500D Monoblock Amp.

 

That would be illegal. Go for it!

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Sid Vicious
2001 CL Type S w/ NAV in Silver | Wheel Locks | Front Plate (Mounted in the Trunk) | Mobil 1 | Polarg M6 NEW! |
1992 Ford Ranger XLT in Silver | F-150 Springs | 3" Body Lift | K&N Filter | Flowmaster Exhaust

 

I was thinking about gutting my catalytic converter(punching out and removing all of the material inside the cat). This would give the the hp gain of a test pipe but would still look legal on the outside. Would this cause my check engine light to go on???



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Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

I am not too worried about the legality of it. I can get my smog done even w/o a cat (my buddy is a mechanic).

My question is, would i see a significant power increase from removing that cat?

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01' CL Type-S, Silver, Navigation, Spoiler
4% tint on the backs and 34% on the fronts
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (2" Drop)
AEM Cold Air Intake
2 JL-Audio 10"xW3 and a MTX 6500D Monoblock Amp.

 

Not sure about the check engine light, but it won't pass a smog test (if you have those out there.)

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Sid Vicious
2001 CL Type S w/ NAV in Silver | Wheel Locks | Front Plate (Mounted in the Trunk) | Mobil 1 | Polarg M6 NEW! |
1992 Ford Ranger XLT in Silver | F-150 Springs | 3" Body Lift | K&N Filter | Flowmaster Exhaust

 

Good question......anybody got an answer? maybe jens?


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01' CL Type-S, Silver, Navigation, Spoiler
4% tint on the backs and 34% on the fronts
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (2" Drop)
AEM Cold Air Intake
2 JL-Audio 10"xW3 and a MTX 6500D Monoblock Amp.

 

What does your buddy say?



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"01" CL Type-S
White\Black
Comptech Springs
Comptech Sways
17x7.5 BBS RX Rims
Navigation System
Burlwood Shifter
Guards+Fenderwell Trim
PIAA16969
Smokers Package
My Car

 

take it out, buy mil eliminators for the check engine light, end of story

 

My buddy said that he can take care of smog for me, but he was not sure about the check engine light. Also, he does not know if our cars are THAT restrictive to see the point of removing them...


------------------
01' CL Type-S, Silver, Navigation, Spoiler
4% tint on the backs and 34% on the fronts
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (2" Drop)
AEM Cold Air Intake
2 JL-Audio 10"xW3 and a MTX 6500D Monoblock Amp.

[This message has been edited by Quick Silver (edited 05-16-2001).]

 

Down here in Florida we have no emissions tests. =) And waht is a mil eliminator???
If the dynos of the random tech cat were true, then we should get the same amount of hp with gutting the cat. The only problems would be a slight loss of bottom end torque due to the removal of some back pressure, and for some, emissions tests. But with that kind of hp gain for a free mod , I'm for it. My only question is whether or not it will set off my check engine light.

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

Ok gotcha. I don't remember the post about 15hp but your reasoning sounds OK. I wish I can check out the dyno.

 

Even by clearing the SES light there will still be stored DTCs indicating a emissions control failure. Secondly, these DTCs set within minutes after warm up. You would be constantly reseting it. If you decide not to reset it and live with the code, how do you know if something else is messed up since the light is already on.

 

Yes, without the catalyst the HO2S2 signal would be nearly identical to the HO2S1. It should switch slower and have a lower peak to peak. With the signal being the same the PCM will set a DTC in minutes.

 

The second dyno session showed only a few HP gain. This is excatly in line with what was thought.

You pick up about 1 HP for ever 1" H20 drop in static pressure. The stock unit has only about 6" static pressure at 400 CFM. Even if you dropped it to 2" that is still only a 4 HP gain while you are driving an illegal vehicle.

Put on a 50 HP shot of nitrous, that'll give you much more power.

Just my $0.02...

 

check out my dyno, and track results. It looks like it might be a good idea to leave thr cat, as it is. Unless my bad times were from the weather.

Spiro

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Black/Black 2001 CL-S
Random Technology Cat
RED AEM CAI
Polarg M6 Roadlamps

 

No Cat = Less Torque
No Cat = More Horsepower

Is this a trade off your willing to sacrifice?


Chris


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2001 Nighthawk Black CLS Type S - Xephyr Performance CAI, PIAA 19173(Yellow) Road Lamp Upgrades, Full Wood Trim, Spoiler, 1/4 Mile in 14.424@97.23 MPH Atco Raceway 3/10/01 Best GTECH Sprint 5.554/28/01 with Poobah watching Xephyr Performance Intakes