Hello everyone. I own a 2001 CL-S, and have a Eibach ProKit (springs & shocks). I love the stance and performance. However, i noticed the inner side of my tires are wearing slightly faster than the rest of the tires.

Im going to buy a camber kit, just dont know which one to go with. What kits are you guys using? Any other feedback would be greatly appreciated?

 

Go with the Eibach Alignment kit

 

Ingalls.

 

Get someone that knows how to do alignments really well to set your toe properly...that should make the uneven tire wear pretty minimal.

 

My reasoning for Eibach is that they designed their camber kits specifically for their Springs and Shocks.

 

any camber will be fine.

 

Thanks for the info. I will probably get the eibach kit, sometime over the winter. until then, i will have the alignment checked & have the toe adjusted.

 

Ingalls. It gives you the ability to adjust camber and toe in the rear, plus it replaces the lower arms so it easier to adjust while on the rack.

 

Just make sure wherever you take it KNOWS how to adjust a two arm camber kit...I had major issues.

 

Are you looking for a front or rear camber kit? Do you need toe adjustment in the rear?

 

I have the same setup <500mi, just got in for a 4w align, my rear camber is about -2 each side, am looking to get the rear ingalls links,

xlr8, any deals on p/n 38720?

I've got to say cornering, back road twisties and taking exits off 90/93/95 have never been more fun

 

id go with ingalls. the camber adjustment and toe adjustment in the rear are worth it

 

I want both front & rear camber kit. im not sure if i need toe adjustment in the rear. but, the rear tires arent wearing that fast. Its mostly the front tire wear, im concerned about.

 

im in the same predicament as you...I need a rear camber kit bad...been through too many tires by now...let me know what you find...plus i see you around the way...

 

technically, twisties and cornering are more fun with no camber kits

PS...with just a front camber kit, I have -1 up front and no rear camber kit I have -2.3 So, with the addition of one degree of neg camber, I am at the same as stock proportionally front to rear. Car handles great and tire is wearing just fine. Read some of Heeltoe's articles on camber for better understanding of the need for it.

Also, if you're sitting pretty flush, even with fender rolled, there ain't much room to straighten the camber.

 

...right...which is why I said it is fun right now, with my current negative rear camber. I want the camber kit to correct close to -.5

 

must have misread it.

i'm guessing your offset isn't too aggressive or you rolled the rear very flat to be able to get it to -.5 camber. It's not even that straight from the factory.

 

We have them in stock and discounted on the website:

http://store.excelerateperformance.c...0/i-60219.aspx

You need a qty of 2 to complete the rear of the car.

Without knowing how much your camber is off it's hard to say what you will need for sure in the front but here is what I would recommend if you're slammed. You need a qty of 2 of each.

Front Adjustable Ball Joints

http://store.excelerateperformance.c...1/i-60160.aspx

Rear Camber/Toe Arms

http://store.excelerateperformance.c...0/i-60219.aspx

 

I went with Ingalls in the rear and nothing in the front. I have the H&R springs that sit a little lower in the rear. The front tires do show some additional wear, but they are rotated to the back and wears back to fairly even.

 

Ive got nothing in the front and was able to get the camber within spec.

 

what are the recommended camber specs for f/r?

 

Factory is about -.3 front and -1.2 rear, or something like that. They set the fronts pretty straight if you just look at it (i guess a little negative cause it's not perfectly zero) and if you look at all rear tires they have about 1 negative degree of camber.

I'm the opposite, I'm running a front camber kit and have about -1 front and -2.5 rear with no camber kit so technically, proportionally I'm keeping it in spec (front vs rear)...car handles awesome that way and tires are wearing normally.

and I'm pretty low.

 

That's odd. Most people need the rear and not the front setup.

 

i thought rear spec was -.7 lol w/e

I personally only like -1 on the rear and fronts to look fairly straight.

I hate when u see those ppl with a crazy offset and then camber is at -4, -5 degrees... what ricepatties

 

^^^I agree with that.

 

ah thanks for the info,

I think negative camber done right looks cool, (practical or not) and I'm sure they have a lot of fun with it, here's a pic of one of the TL's we cruised with at CanAm this year. Driving behind him I think his rears looked -5 or so, from this angle it doesn't look too bad, I didn't get any rear pics but his car and stance was very nice. btw that's my dog roxie

 

Roxie is awesome...
that car doesn't have -5 camber from any angle...he has narrow tires and a rolled fender!

 

I will ask him, member MEM3, but from driving behind him, it looked like a lot of neg camber, maybe not -5 but def more than -2. I'm sure he had a staggered setup, like 9/10 those BBS wheels were big.

 

here are some better pics:



this is not a good pic of his car but thats me behind lol:

 

yeah, you're probably right...those other pics show the angle better. I stand corrected

 

lol I think we kind of thread jacked, but still relevant, sorry OP.

to get back on track, I think I will get the kits for rear and try to pull within spec, less than -.1 will update you guys with the results.

I was quoted 120 for the install, does that sound reasonable? I would tackle myself but I feel like jackstands aren't suffucient and I'm sure they are frozen, at least my driverside for sure =(

 

Just something to look out for that myself and several others have ran into if attempting yourself: my rear lower arm bolts were frozen to the bushings. I had to cut them and order new camber bolts from the dealer. Kind of a pain in the ass, so you might want to get under there first, see if yours are also stuck and then you'll know you have to order the camber bolts before you go any further.

 

I would throw some pb blaster on it for 2 days in a row...let it soak through, then get under there with your jackstands and give it a good ole college try. It is pretty easy work and might be able to save yourself $120.

 

that good to know. i will order before i get them installed

 

Front camber: -1.0* to +1.0*
Front caster: 1.8* to 3.8*
Front toe: -.04 inch to +.04 inch

Rear Camber: -1.0* to 0*
Rear toe: 0.00 inch to .08 inch

 

front camber can be +1 from factory!?!?
dang...that would be sucky handling!!!

so my rear is the only one that's really "out" and it's only by a degree or so.