Has anyone else had to have their brake rotors trued? My CLS has 15k miles on it and it vibrates badly under braking. This problem slowly became evident over a course of about 3k miles, It's to the point now that I'm going to have to take it in for service. Bummer!

 

I had to have mine done at 9K miles! The dealer was reluctant to do it under warranty but they did. Now I'm at 16K and I think they're starting to get warped again.

 

If you drive like me: 120mph to 50 back up to 90 to 30 in NJ traffic, then your brakes may need a looking at . Did you allow your brakes to ease in when you bought the car or were you rough on them for the first 100 miles?


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01' Acura CL Type-S
Piaa 19169 Bulbs
Valentine1 Pig Detector
XEPHYR CAI (Yahoo!)

01'Acura Integra GSR

 

The primary cause of rotor warpage is hard braking when hot. Aggresive driving (not that anybody will do that in our cars ) will really accelerate this issue. This is a situation that exisists in all types of cars, not just Acura. It can happen at just about any mileage interval. Cross drilled rotors will help- but can be expensive. Its good to hear that your dealer took care of them for you.

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Wayne Gruen
Service Manager
Park Ave Acura

 

I had the dealer look at my car when it had 18K on it (it was only about 6 months old at the time) because the steering wheel shook whenever I braked. They said it was warped rotors, and they did resurface them under the "good samaritan" clause of the warranty, although they tried to tell me it normally wouldn't have been covered, and that I probably "rode" the brakes and then drove through a puddle.

Now I can tell they are warped again, because the problem is back and worse than ever. But instead of haveing them shave more material off or replace them with the original ones, i'm going to look into better quality crossdrilled ones.

(Maybe if acura used thicker rotors to begin with this wouldn't be such a common problem on their cars)

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'99 2.3CL 5-spd, Black.
Spoiler, Pilot Fogs, Wheel Locks, Mudguards, CD & Cass, CoPilot Digital Compass, Michelin Pilot Tires, and an Audiovox Pursuit Ignition Disabler.

[This message has been edited by UDMechE (edited 04-11-2001).]

 

it's common on every car not just Acuras. I had this 4 months after having my Mitsubishi GSX and 8 months back when I had an S-10 Blazer. Cross Drilled are expensive BUT I am sure they do not warp at high temps like standard ones.


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01' Acura CL Type-S
Piaa 19169 Bulbs
Valentine1 Pig Detector
XEPHYR CAI (Yahoo!)

01'Acura Integra GSR

 

Do any companies make rotors out of materials that don't warp like ceramic or something? I'd pay the extra money if i knew they would never warp.

[This message has been edited by frederix (edited 04-11-2001).]

 

The term for it is called .... having your rotors turned.

Yea it happens when ur on the brake too much.
But than again... u guys can't really downshift. j/p



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1997 Acura 2.2 CL (5spd)
rubber tires, windshield wipers, headlights, horn, steering wheel, BRAKE PEDAL, clutch, brake pads, driver seat, passenger seat, back seat, front windshield, rear windshield (with defroster), lumbar support, cruise control, intermitent wiper control, sun roof (tinted), engine, pistons (only 4), emergency brake handle, trunk w/ tools, spare tire

 

Actually, your rotors are more likely to warp when you brake hard with cold rotors. For example, lets say you're cruising on the freeway for 30 miles and never use your brakes at all during that time. Then you have to slam the brakes because a deer jumps out in front of you. Since your rotors were cold from 30 miles of cool air passing over them, the instant heat build up could easily warp your rotors, not to mention glaze your brake pads. It's the differential in temperature that causes warped rotors.



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dead CL-S and M3

 

Brings back bad memories. This was a common problem with LS1 camaros. I was hoping that Honda would not cut corners when it comes to breaks, but maybe it's not the case. My 'lude with 33k on it has no signs of warped rotors, so I'm surprised that a CL would show these signs after just a few thousand miles.

The problem with re-surfacing is that even though it will probably make the problem go away, it is a temporary solution only and the vibrations will come back, since there is basically less material on the rotor.

The real fix is to go with good rotors, which come in drilled or non-drilled form.Comptech has replacement rotors for pre-3.2CL's. Hopefully they will have replacement rotors for the 3.2's soon...



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2001 Acura 3.2 CL TypeS -- White/Ebony, No Emblems
1998 Honda Prelude -- Black/Black, MN5

 

Apparently it happens just in general. My car does 9/10 highway miles. It has never even been braked hard. In fact the ABS has never even kicked in. That reminds me I need to do an ABS test before I take the car in for brake service. In other words there isn't a single reason my rotors shouldn't be true.

 

Wow, I had no idea this problem was so common among CLs. I had the rotors resurfaced yesterday for the same problems: pulsation in the pedal and vibration in the steering wheel. Once the rotors were resurfaced, the problem went away(I'm @ 17,000 miles). It sucks that this problem will be reoccuring! I checked into cross drilled rotors not too long ago and the cost is reasonable (like $120 a piece).

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01 CL TYPE S: BLK/EBONY, NAVI, SITTING ON MASITALY SAGITTA 18'S W/ NITTO 235-40-18'S AND EIBACH SPORT SPRINGS.

 

I complained since day one, because, I was not so lucky to get my car off the truck so to speak, mine located had "50" miles on it, so who know who the fuck ran the hell out of it while "test" driving and prob. hit a pot hole and bent the fucking rotors. They checked them and said everything was fine. I kept hearing a "rumble" noise between 40 and 60 when braking....so at 15K, I had the breaks surfaced...I believe, anyway, where do I inquire about these cross drilled rotors ?
Thanks !

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2001 CL Type S Black/Ebony w/NAVI, PIAA bulbs, Tinted windows, JL Sub-woofer/Fosgate 250 watt amp, otherwise pure stock
1998 Accord Coupe EX-V6
Black Currant Pearl, PIAA bulbs, tinted windows, Fosgate 500 watt amp, Eclipes 6X9's,JL Sub-woofer, otherwise PURE stock !

 

I complained since day one, because, I was not so lucky to get my car off the truck so to speak, mine located had "50" miles on it, so who know who the fuck ran the hell out of it while "test" driving and prob. hit a pot hole and bent the fucking rotors. They checked them and said everything was fine. I kept hearing a "rumble" noise between 40 and 60 when braking....so at 15K, I had the breaks surfaced...I believe, anyway, where do I inquire about these cross drilled rotors ?
Thanks !

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2001 CL Type S Black/Ebony w/NAVI, PIAA bulbs, Tinted windows, JL Sub-woofer/Fosgate 250 watt amp, otherwise pure stock
1998 Accord Coupe EX-V6
Black Currant Pearl, PIAA bulbs, tinted windows, Fosgate 500 watt amp, Eclipes 6X9's,JL Sub-woofer, otherwise PURE stock !

 

It doesn't happen for no reason. I said that hard braking w/cool rotors was the most likely cause. But there are other causes too.

If your brake rotors have heat in them and you drive thru a puddle of cold water, this could also easily cause rotor warpage.



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dead CL-S and M3