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Back on December 12 of last year, I helped my girl out on here 6 Speed by replacing her brakes and rotors. She did half, I did the other so she could learn.
We originally did it because one corner was scraping against the rotor, but also because we hadn't done them since she bought the car. So it was a good time to get it done. Removing the pads, the one that was scraping had no meat on them at all. Everything got replaced and was all good.
Now, 4 months later, that same corner has worn down the pad completely again. It's making the same noise it did before, just scraping against the rotor.
Before reinstalling, we did push the cup all the way back into the caliper. Have to to fit the new pads anyways. Aside from just replacing the entire caliper, I was wanting to see if y'all had any idea why this might be happening. What to look for, or what to fix. Thankfully I've got some spare used pads from junkyard runs and from when I upgraded my CL to the RL calipers.
The wear appears pretty uneven; inboard pads look worn less than the outboard. I would take a look at the caliper pins; they may need to be cleaned & lubricated.
these appear to be the rear calipers? strange that they would wear this quickly; you may also want to inspect the caliper and soft line leading into it as it may not be returning to open position as quickly as it should; increasing wear. There's a helpful youtube video on how to check this (on an integra) from eric the car guy; basically check how easily the wheel spins immediately after releasing your foot from the brake.
The wear appears pretty uneven; inboard pads look worn less than the outboard. I would take a look at the caliper pins; they may need to be cleaned & lubricated.
these appear to be the rear calipers? strange that they would wear this quickly; you may also want to inspect the caliper and soft line leading into it as it may not be returning to open position as quickly as it should; increasing wear. There's a helpful youtube video on how to check this (on an integra) from eric the car guy; basically check how easily the wheel spins immediately after releasing your foot from the brake.
I'll give this all a check possibly next weekend, so I'll let you know what I find. Appreciate the info.
Just a suggestion and you may have already looked into it, but in the past there was one time for me where I had my brakes making some scraping kind of noise and it turns out the shims between the caliper and the pads came out a bit so I guess the pad had barely been making contact with the rotor with no pressure from the caliper piston. Maybe take a look at those shims if you haven't already..?
Just a suggestion and you may have already looked into it, but in the past there was one time for me where I had my brakes making some scraping kind of noise and it turns out the shims between the caliper and the pads came out a bit so I guess the pad had barely been making contact with the rotor with no pressure from the caliper piston. Maybe take a look at those shims if you haven't already..?
When I went to go and remove the caliper, it was on there tight. The pads were definitely making contact.
This is a pretty old post, but I've had to put two new rear calipers on my cls brakes. One was vibrating the rear on the fwy. Turned out to have locked up and was dragging and smoking. The second blew out the piston seal and i was losing fluid, but not very fast.
If you have a spare car, I would suggest ordering them online as local stores use the same rebuilds and charge about double the price. You have to deal with the core charge, but that's typical in store as well.
This is a pretty old post, but I've had to put two new rear calipers on my cls brakes. One was vibrating the rear on the fwy. Turned out to have locked up and was dragging and smoking. The second blew out the piston seal and i was losing fluid, but not very fast.
If you have a spare car, I would suggest ordering them online as local stores use the same rebuilds and charge about double the price. You have to deal with the core charge, but that's typical in store as well.
I still have yet to tackle this issue. Are you saying to replace the entire caliper, or buy a rebuild kit?
Did you ever get around to fixing this issue? I found an old thread where someone said to lubricate the floating pins. Not sure how you would do that... unless I'm looking at the wrong thing on my calipers
Sounds like the caliper is seized/ and or not retracting when you let off the brake.
This is a common issue in infiniti/nissan read passenger calipers. Fix is to get a another one. junkyard perhaps. They are the same as TL 2G arnt they?
Did you ever get around to fixing this issue? I found an old thread where someone said to lubricate the floating pins. Not sure how you would do that... unless I'm looking at the wrong thing on my calipers
Not yet, been lazy.
Originally Posted by Acura TL Builder
Sounds like the caliper is seized/ and or not retracting when you let off the brake.
This is a common issue in infiniti/nissan read passenger calipers. Fix is to get a another one. junkyard perhaps. They are the same as TL 2G arnt they?
I mean, the caliper retracts when I use my C-Clamp, but I can't say how it's performing the other way around. Car hasn't been driven as much lately due to an exhaust leak i've been attempted to fix multiple times. Almost had it fixed, but I need to do more copper gasket maker on the front P2R header. Being a real pain in the ass.
Funny enough, i'm having an isue with the same exact caliper on my CL. I pocketed some brake pads from the junkyard, and i've been meaning to swap them out because they were low. I've just been lazy and busy with other things.
sounds like a seized caliper to me.. do a drive around and then get an infrared themometer pointed at the caliper and see if it's hotter than the others.
sounds like a seized caliper to me.. do a drive around and then get an infrared themometer pointed at the caliper and see if it's hotter than the others.
How reliable is this? One of my rears started making scraping noises *sometimes* when braking. However when I did a heat check the fronts were much hotter
How reliable is this? One of my rears started making scraping noises *sometimes* when braking. However when I did a heat check the fronts were much hotter
Fronts are going to be doing more of the work than the rears, so they're going to be hotter.
I've still been too lazy to fix the caliper on my girl's car. But I accidently ordered the wrong dust boot twice for a second set of TL-S brembos that I pulled, and I believe one of them are the same dust boot that's used on the rear calipers. So I should be fixing hers soon.
Recently fixed the same issue on my car though. Rear driver side was making a scraping noise, but the pads were still good. Thought maybe it was the wheel bearing; it wasn't. I noticed when I put the rotor on and turned it, it would make the scraping noise. Rear rotors haven't ever been replaced since I've owned the car. Lots of rust accumulated on them. So I took a wire brush to them and got as much rust off of them as I could, then painted them black, then wire brushed where the pads meet the rotor surface. Put them back on, and not only do they look much better, but no more scraping.
New rear rotors are on the list of things to do on my car. This is only a temporary fix for now.
03-06-2022, 12:01 PM
