I replaced the front pads and rotors today (did rear pads last weekend).
The rear one where completely gone.. the front where OK but i had an annoying
vibration when braking for really long time.

everything went well , except one thing that may be just fine but i need to be sure.

there is one part there (you can see in the picture) that felt like it is stuck.
When i pushed the other one , it moved IN freely but this one doesnt.
I tapped on it a bit , took a socket and tried to open and closed it . but nothing its the same. I finished installing , went for a ride. everything seems to be just fine.
So do i have a problem there or is it ok ? i wonder if it is not ok. then maybe that is why i had the vibration with the old Rotors. I'm thinking maybe the pads are not "closing" the same way and that made the rotor warp ....just a theory.

 

its seized. Get the pin out, clean it and lube it back up.

 

thats correct--
may be able to pull that pin and the others out- clean and lube with synthetic brake caliper grease
I dont see any lube on the slider plates--which are also rusty
those must be clean and lubed so the pads move freely

the internal pin thats stuck is preventing the entire assembly from pulling itself together under braking- which is how it works!
you have a major safety issue right now- do not drive!!!
Also did you flush the brake fluid?

those stuck retainer screws are normal

 

clean the crud old grease off piston edge, grease back of pad lightly- not the piston--the pad back
same for the outer pad--light grease where contact is made
ck old pads for wear marks

when its all together right: you can move the assembly back and forth and the pads have slight room to move--all nicely greased!!

 

from my experience, this happens because of a torn boot. If it is torn, highly recommend replacing it (somewhat hard to get a hold of from auto stores) or it will seize up again on you down the road. If the pin has a lot of build up, you can use high grit sandpaper and sand it from the pin. Make sure you have a good amount of lube/grease on the pin and the boot as well.

 

How do i pull those pins out ?

"Slider plates" - you mean and i it is where should i grease it ? :


thanks

 

ok i took the pin out (it wasnt easy at all) . Cleaned it with WD40 then greased it and it's back in.
probably wont be a bad idea to get a new pin .
i inspected the rest (fronts) they all greased and moving smooth.
cleaned the piston edges , should be good.

brakes feels the same by the way

 

more then likely not completely siezed up, but yes very sticky though

 

^^^If it "wasn't easy at all" to remove then it wasnt just very sticky. Probably didnt have any type of grease/lubricant.

danny_isr, it may "feel the same" because you got it fixed before it really messed up your new pads and rotor. Could have caused uneven wear on both pad and rotor. Vibration you mentioned above, could be a high possibility it was because of that seized pin. No real need for a new pin. Like i mentioned above, just really take your time to clean it. Sand it a bit to get all the crap that built up on the pin.

 

yeah i didnt see any lubricant on it. it was completely dry.
it kind of weird because the other three where in perfect shape and greased.
Maybe someone forgot to grease it or something.
I didnt do the brakes on this car before.

i cleaned (no sand paper) just screw drive/WD40 and i had a file near by.
It felt much better when i put it back in.


i didnt try braking hard from high speed yet. i'm giving them some time to "settle together" . At "city speed" i didnt feel any vibration.


thanks for your help , without this forum i woudnt attempt any work on my car.

 

did you clean and grease the slider parts--the 2 metal plates on the bracket- top and bottem part = where the pads end tab fits into-

those must be slick!,,, so the extended `tabs` on the end of brake pads- slide across the plate and contact the rotor when brakes applied--does how it operates make sense?
If those are not right it makes for sloppy braking

and as always- fresh brake fluid never hurt anyone!!

 

i didnt clean them , i guess i have another (short) session next weekend.
it does make sense , i was just really short on time today.

i didnt flush the fluid , i was worried i woudnt do the bleeding correctly and have air in the system.


thanks !


this is the pin :

 

if there is air in the system its called bleeding

if its just dirty fluid- no air because a line was opened, then its called a flush
and very easy to do
simple diy, plenty of info available

 

I have about 2000miles on those new brakes and I start feel how the vibration in my steering wheel starts to build back up when I brake at about 80 mph... Very disappointing ... Not sure what's going on ...?

 

I see a LOT of rust where the rotor slips over the axle hub--that area MUST be free of rust and crud buildup or the rotor wont fit flat!- even if you tightened the retainer screws~
Sand that off and apply brake grease to prevent future problems

You are bringing the wheel lugs up evenly -across from each other in 2 or 3 steps of tightening.. up to 80 spec??
not blasting one on tight,, then the next,, the next,, nascar style??

Did you finally clean the clip in plates/sliders where the pad end tabs fit into- so the brake action can occur smoothly?? most often overlooked thing!

once they got the needed miles for break in- have you done the makers suggested pad bedding procedure with getting them hot-hot and transfer a layer of pad material to the rotors?
what brand parts are you using?

 

did you flush/bleed the brakes till all new clear fluid came thru each caliper?
and you know the special order of LF RF RR LR??