im going to get it but i wonder if i dont port the intake manifold would i really get any gains from it?i mean your making the opening bigger to allow more air but your intake opening is not larger please respond guys

 

Types1967,
Theoretically, yes, although nobody has had their car on a dyno to show the gains.

 

Where can you get a bigger throttle body from? Who makes it?

 

mugen makes one.

 

go to kingmotorsports.com and look under cl big bore throttle body.you have to exchange yours and they send it back to you.its 4mm bigger bore

 

How about HKS?

 

What size is ours stock?

 

I have a billet TB (> 70mm) and a ported/extrude-honed intake manifold. When I dyno it... you will see if it makes any gains.

The King motorsports TB only enlarges the stock one.. ~63mm.

 

It will not help unless you fi ,i did it on my wifes prelude there was no diffrence but it was smother running i dynoed before at 144hp and after it still was the same also there was no diffrence at the track.
MY Truck was super charged before T/B was done i ran 12.56@109.56 after 12.30@111.00 so it did work.

 

allmotor, can't wait to see a dyno for this, might be my next mod.

 

There's a guy on www.v6performance.net who did this. He went through King Motorsports too. He also got the spacer too. He's gonna dyno it but he has other mods so it won't really help. He did say he noticed noise changes.

 

One has to take into Account the NA with Free-flow enhnancing Bolt-ons have limits. You can't make an Engine burn more than max cfm of O2 at redline.

Simple fact, Headers alone could add 25 WHP, CAI can Add 10 WHP... Both can net you 30 WHP but not 35 WHP!... If the TB is not a limiting factor in the free flow of air, it will not help you by making it bigger.

 

It's actually the other way around. A CAI, Header, Exhaust makes the engine breathe easier. Yes, it flows more air than stock because of less restrictive flow. However, the volume of air the motor inhales and exhales (directly proportional to its volumetric efficiency) is gated by the TB!!

More air (plus fuel) = more power... plain and simple. The maximum gains from these mods might only be realized if the ECU is reprogrammed... but the stock ECU can correct for most things except under WOT.

Of course, all this has yet to be dyno-proven, but that will be available shortly.

 

if it does increase efficiency then its worth it 4mm larger is pretty good for a stock tb.ill wait allmotor till you prove this theory hopefully soon.steve was working on the imrc but dont have any updated info from him.

 

dont take too long...im counting on the new TL ECU to be flashable ...changing fuel curves vtec and rev limits

 

It will make more power... period. The unit I have is >6mm larger.

Our ECU is not flashable... but it is programmable!

 

programable in what way? i need a lower vtec point and raised redline

 

allmotor programable?how could you explain.i wonder how big the inlet pipe is going to the supercharger right past the throttle body?if its bigger than the throttle body then the upgrade sounds good but need info on size.

 

6mm...from where? KMS.com only inlarges it by 4mm.










Juker008

 

Only the outside lip is enlarged 4mm. The TB is tapered and the point where the butterfly sits is only enlarged 2-3mm.

My unit is custom made of billet aluminum... enlarged >6mm everywhere.

 

allmotor, do you think the one from Mugen might not be worth the money for our cars?

what about for autos?

Thanks!

 

im sure youll at least get better throttle response.

 

im looking foward to your dyno results allmotor when are they going to happen?

 

Is it possible for us to get a TB like urs as well?












Juker008

 

I can have one made I suppose... but it might be cheaper if there are minimum two!

 

The custom one you have.. didn't you say that it makes the car idle a bit rough?

 

Drawbacks are:

(1) No Idle Air Control valve (hence it doesn't really idle right when the motor is cold)
* Way to get over this is to set your idle at around 1100RPM, so when its cold, its at around 600RPM
(2) No Cruise Control (weight savings)
(3) Sometimes idle tends to go up and down... I think I have a little leak, so this might not really be an issue

Benefits are:

(1) Good performance gains from 3.5K RPM onwards
(2) Lighter weight (doesn't really make a difference, but!)
(3) > 6mm over stock (tapered cylinder but still 70mm)
(4) Billet aluminum (1-piece of aluminum - except throttle-plate of course!)

Price is ~$450 for one or $425 for two (includes new gasket and
brass connector for coolant bypass)

 

hey allmotor can you get a 70mm throttle body with cruise for our cars?

 

I will have to find out about the cruise-control, but you see this is the problem. The throttle-plate assemby and cylinder are from some other throttle-body the guy makes... so if I have to go ask him to make one, it will get expensive.

Just swap out the stock one for long trips! Wait... you are S/C'd, that might be a bit of a pain!

 

How are your other mods comming along? (clutch/flywheel) I am itching for your dyno!

 

I have the clutch/flywheel... just not installed yet. I am waiting on one more thing.... I'll post pics when I get them!

 

I'd be interested in joining with others to bring the price down. Allmotor, I love reading about your projects and feel that everything you've been working on will be the next stage of my modification because of all of your hard work and due diligence. I have ordered and received my lower T-stat and Fan Switch (you said that you'd definitely advise on doing this being in the desert. Could you please walk me through the install or should I take it to a shop? Thanks and keep pioneering!

 

It's very straightforward... just be sure to refill the coolant and check for air-bubbles once you are done.

 

I can do $410 which will include the gasket if I can get three folks to buy it!

Keep in mind that King Motorsports charges you $150 to modify your stock one... a brand new stock one costs > $300. A TB from the junkyard is ~$175. So, to get a 4mm overbored TB, you are spending around $325 or more. I think another $80'ish is okay for a 70mm one!

Problem with something like this is that it has to be paid for up-front...

 

I just did this mod and I had some trouble. The removal and replacement of the parts is extremely simple although with the S/C, it might be a little tight. When I refilled the coolant, the radiator just filled up and not the block so when I drove it around and the t-stat opened, and the coolant dispersed throughout the block and the car overheated and I freaked. I do not know the best way to get the "bubble" out. Hopefully allmotor can help.

 

allmotor,
can you get the TB with a idle control and cruise control???? I would be interested but only if those two issues can be addressed.

 

Well, I usually start the car and keep filling the radiator until the T-stat opens. There is a bleed valve somewhere (proper way to bleed the system), but I personally haven't used that approach yet (and I have done the T-stat swap twice).

Oh yeah, check the coolant level when the car is cool... and the next day!

 

It might cost more!

 

Idle control valve is already there... just not a COLD START Idle Air Control valve (idle when the car is cold).

I can look into IAC and cruise... but might cost more!

 

Allmotor,
How much more This would be a piece which would stay on my car all year round. It wouldn't be a track-only mod.