phipark

I'm sure these will increase the life of the engine. But will they decrease the life of the water pump?

Hey, I just hit 1K

scalbert

They won't increase the life of the engin nor will they decrease the life of the water pump.

The water pump is mechanical and is always being used regardless. It may decrease the cooling fan motor life as they will cycle more often. But that probably wouldn't be noticed.

phipark

Thanks, Scalbert. That's all I needed to know. My fan hardly ever runs now, so I should be fine with that.

phipark

Ok, now it has me thinking. What is the purpose of the Mugen cooling mods? I know it decreases the coolant temp about 10-20 degrees. Is the main reason to get them to gain the 3-4 peak hp that I saw on Scalbert's dyno?

blader

Actually I think it was more like a 7hp difference, and running the engine cooler will decrease things like IAT's, and the cooler water temp will also let the ECU run more timing without the worry of detonation.

phipark

So, in conclusion, get them without blinking? Worth the $120 or so?

JZ

Wow! If we get an answer to this last question this will be the cleanest Q and A ever to take place on this board!

JZ

phipark

^^That's the point. I don't want to beat around the bush.

blader

I think its worth it. Definetly helps the engine feel a little more peppy and a little less like its struggling when the temps are up. Almost feels like 50 deg temps when its 80s and 90s outside.

Put it this way .. It can't hurt Has been dyno proven to show more gain than the Comptech mufflers and its a 1\5th the price!

scalbert

Yes...

scalbert

I was just thinking, I should be getting some sort of kick back from King Motorsports after nearly two years of sending people their way.

phipark

Thanks for the clean-cut answer, Scalbert.

car_lost

i think you should make your own and make it better than the mugen one, then sell it under Hope Systems

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

which cooling mods are you doing?

Nashua_Night_Hawk

To my surprise, the CAI equiped CLS would love to keep the Intake Air Temp between 105 ann 120. My Sienna has it Intake Air Temp less tha 95F... Why, who knows!

phipark

Fan switch and t-stat.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

ah i see, a lot of people tend to not bother with the radiator cap, oh well

blader

You may as well do the cap, and add a bottle of water wetter. Its not like its that much more difficult to do those two items .. you have to pour all the coolant that spilled out back in anyway, just dump a bottle in and slap on the cap.

Dem1K

iTrader: (1)

where do you go about getting this shit? i'm clueless about this mugen cooling system or whatnot?

blader

King Motorsports. do a search there are a million threads with the link and exact part numbers you need.

Dem1K

iTrader: (1)

thanks blader

darrinb

i need to stop being lazy and figure out how to install this

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

^^ Me too... sometime next week.

NiteQwill

Me three.

I promise a detailed DIY with pictures when I get to it, since there's a million people asking.

phipark

^^Hurry

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Then I might just wait

Rod

Maybe I'll order the parts too then.

blader

Guys believe me .. its not that difficult. Just make sure you have a pan under the car to the left of the drivers tire, all the coolant that comes out trickles down the the exact same spot so you'll be able to see exactly where the pan needs to be once you loosen the thermostat housing.

Take off the plastic engine covers and you'll be able to see the housing with the fan switch sticking out the top, its below the throttle body. Get a 15\16th's open end wrench and loosen the fan switch that sticks out of the top of the thermo housing now, while the housing is still bolted to the block. Makes it much easier doing it this way. Dont forget to remove the wiring harness attached to the fan switch. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the housing to the block, this can be tricky, it will take a minute to figure out where your hands have to be placed to do it. Use a ratchet with extension for this, I forget what size. Once the bolts are out the coolant will start to pour out, you'll lose quite a bit. Make sure the pan is placed in the right spot. Take out the thermostat and note how it faces and how it is placed. Switch the stock rubber gasket to the Mugen one, again, taking care of its position. There is like a nipple on the gasket that has to be facing 12 oclock when placed back in the housing. Put in the mugen one, bolt the housing back on, tighten the fan switch, and plug in the fan switch wiring harness.

If you need an explanation on how to install the radiator cap, you don't belong popping your hood by yourself Dont forget to pour the coolant back in, or a bottle of water wetter first then the coolant, and please, use a funnel

phipark

You make it sound so easy. I guess I'll have a crack at it. Oh, where is the rad cap located? j/k

So, we access the t-stat/switch from the top? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

^^^ Smitty said do NOT use the Mugen gasket, reuse the stock one?

blader

It is pretty easy

You take off the engine covers and under the throttle body you will see the housing. You can get to it by reaching under the throttle body from the top of the engine compartment. None of this work is done on your back under the car.

yes mrsteve you are absolutely right, this is what I said in my post.

Quote from my post:
I guess I could've said this a bit clearer. What I meant was switch the stock rubber gasket from the stock thermostat TO the Mugen one. DO NOT use the mugen gasket.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Ahhhh.... sneaky sneaky sir...

phipark

That's a relief. I was picturing all this coolant dripping on my face. Sounds like it should take only take about 30-60 minutes.

Just ordered the parts.

phipark

One more thing, Blader. Did you have to bleed the system or did you just refill and go?

blader

no I didnt bleed it. just added what was lost back in through the radiator cap, then let it idle up to operating temperature and squeezed the top radiator hose to let out air bubbles.