Battery? Alternator? Starter?
Battery? Alternator? Starter?
All,
I'm having a problem starting my '03 6MT CLS. I've done a search but didn't find conclusive information related to my problem.
Basically, I can't start the car. When I attempt to, all I hear is a "CLUNK" and the whole car shuts down - meaning, all electronics shut off. The car does not try to turn over at all.
If I turn the key 3/4, all electrical components work (radio, console lights, etc.). However, I need to re-enter my radio code each time after I try to start.
So, is it the battery? Alternator? Starter?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason
I'm having a problem starting my '03 6MT CLS. I've done a search but didn't find conclusive information related to my problem.
Basically, I can't start the car. When I attempt to, all I hear is a "CLUNK" and the whole car shuts down - meaning, all electronics shut off. The car does not try to turn over at all.
If I turn the key 3/4, all electrical components work (radio, console lights, etc.). However, I need to re-enter my radio code each time after I try to start.
So, is it the battery? Alternator? Starter?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason
Process of elimination
My guess is: battery failure. My '01 died about 18 months ago - so it's your turn!
The fact that you have to re-enter your radio code makes me suspect it's the battery. To check: Get a jump-start (or push-start - you have the 6mt!) and drive to the nearest auto-parts store. They will check your battery for free - and if it's dead, you're right there! The store will be happy to give you a jump if it's not the battery.
I doubt it's the alternator - or you would have seen the battery light on the idiot panel while driving. The symptoms you described would have manifested themselves later - as the battery discharged without the alternator.
Starter? Possible, although it's more likely a solenoid and not the actual starter. The solenoid is attached to the starter (Usually. I haven't worked on the starter on my CLS). It electrically extends the shaft which connects the starter to the flywheel. Failure of the solenoid is common, and if it failed in such a way that it caused a short, it could mimic the symptoms of a dead battery. The battery connects directly to the solenoid through large-gage wiring, so if it's shorted: then basically your battery is too.
So: check the battery first. It's the most likely culprit and certainly the easiest to fix. You can replace it right in the parking lot with only a socket/wrench to remove the battery cover and attach the cables.
If the battery is good, see if the auto parts store can check your charging system. Some can, some can't - but they'll charge you less than the stealership will (probably nothing). If the battery is good and the charging system is good - then I'd bet money on the solenoid.
If you choose to replace the solenoid yourself - it's pretty easy. A service manual would help. I'll bet $5 that an '03 accord manual will tell you how to do it - if you don't feel like shelling out $60 for the Helms. Just remember to disconnect the battery.
Touch a hot wire while replacing the stereo = zap! ouch!
Touch a hot wire replacing the solenoid = death. Fail.
The fact that you have to re-enter your radio code makes me suspect it's the battery. To check: Get a jump-start (or push-start - you have the 6mt!) and drive to the nearest auto-parts store. They will check your battery for free - and if it's dead, you're right there! The store will be happy to give you a jump if it's not the battery.
I doubt it's the alternator - or you would have seen the battery light on the idiot panel while driving. The symptoms you described would have manifested themselves later - as the battery discharged without the alternator.
Starter? Possible, although it's more likely a solenoid and not the actual starter. The solenoid is attached to the starter (Usually. I haven't worked on the starter on my CLS). It electrically extends the shaft which connects the starter to the flywheel. Failure of the solenoid is common, and if it failed in such a way that it caused a short, it could mimic the symptoms of a dead battery. The battery connects directly to the solenoid through large-gage wiring, so if it's shorted: then basically your battery is too.
So: check the battery first. It's the most likely culprit and certainly the easiest to fix. You can replace it right in the parking lot with only a socket/wrench to remove the battery cover and attach the cables.
If the battery is good, see if the auto parts store can check your charging system. Some can, some can't - but they'll charge you less than the stealership will (probably nothing). If the battery is good and the charging system is good - then I'd bet money on the solenoid.
If you choose to replace the solenoid yourself - it's pretty easy. A service manual would help. I'll bet $5 that an '03 accord manual will tell you how to do it - if you don't feel like shelling out $60 for the Helms. Just remember to disconnect the battery.
Touch a hot wire while replacing the stereo = zap! ouch!
Touch a hot wire replacing the solenoid = death. Fail.
Jason, you can try jumping it with another car, and if it starts, that eliminates the starter.
Sounds like the battery to me, but it could just be dirty connections to the battery too. The stock battery has a green eye (magic eye, whatever), but those can lie. You can have a load test preformed on you battery if you bring it down to some auto parts stores.
With our 6spds being 5 years old now, I think we are going to start seeing more and more battery type threads. Batteries tend to start going right after the warranty period expires (planned obsolesce).
I had a battery just die all of the sudden on me on my last car, but I was in walmart's parking lot, so I just went back in bought a battery and tools, and returned the tools an old battery for the core charge when I was done
edit: just saw your update, still sounds like the battery... It just doesn't have enough power to turn over the starter. Luckily you discovered it now instead of on a cold snowy morning in the middle of winter
Sounds like the battery to me, but it could just be dirty connections to the battery too. The stock battery has a green eye (magic eye, whatever), but those can lie. You can have a load test preformed on you battery if you bring it down to some auto parts stores.
With our 6spds being 5 years old now, I think we are going to start seeing more and more battery type threads. Batteries tend to start going right after the warranty period expires (planned obsolesce).
I had a battery just die all of the sudden on me on my last car, but I was in walmart's parking lot, so I just went back in bought a battery and tools, and returned the tools an old battery for the core charge when I was done

edit: just saw your update, still sounds like the battery... It just doesn't have enough power to turn over the starter. Luckily you discovered it now instead of on a cold snowy morning in the middle of winter
Thanks for the responses guys.
I'm going to try and jump the car first, when the fiance gets home from work. I'm thinking more and more that it's the battery, since it's still the original (I'm at 90,000 miles on it - not too shabby!). The green eye still is reporting as green, but like you said Greenie, it lies.
If the jump doesn't work, I'll try the hammer trick on the starter. I'll report back later tonight.
As a sidenote, sorry I haven't been around lately. We had a re-org at work, I got put into a team lead role, where internet surfing has become minimal. I'm also starting my MBA next week at Boston College, so downtime will become even less. I usually only refer to this site for problems/fixes now - last month I replaced my brake pads myself for the first time, and also started doing my own oil changes with Mobil 1.
I'm going to try and jump the car first, when the fiance gets home from work. I'm thinking more and more that it's the battery, since it's still the original (I'm at 90,000 miles on it - not too shabby!). The green eye still is reporting as green, but like you said Greenie, it lies.
If the jump doesn't work, I'll try the hammer trick on the starter. I'll report back later tonight.
As a sidenote, sorry I haven't been around lately. We had a re-org at work, I got put into a team lead role, where internet surfing has become minimal. I'm also starting my MBA next week at Boston College, so downtime will become even less. I usually only refer to this site for problems/fixes now - last month I replaced my brake pads myself for the first time, and also started doing my own oil changes with Mobil 1.
Originally Posted by mc_yanzo
I just tried again after cleaning the battery terminals, and now I get the "RAT-A-TAT-TAT" noise when trying to start the car, which I believe is the starter.
Either a bad battery or dirty connection.
Update
UPDATE
I changed the battery, and the car started up fine. I left the car sitting in the garage for two days, then tried to start it again. Now, the same thing happens as before. Is something draining my battery? What could it be?
TIA
I changed the battery, and the car started up fine. I left the car sitting in the garage for two days, then tried to start it again. Now, the same thing happens as before. Is something draining my battery? What could it be?
TIA
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Originally Posted by mc_yanzo
UPDATE
I changed the battery, and the car started up fine. I left the car sitting in the garage for two days, then tried to start it again. Now, the same thing happens as before. Is something draining my battery? What could it be?
TIA
I changed the battery, and the car started up fine. I left the car sitting in the garage for two days, then tried to start it again. Now, the same thing happens as before. Is something draining my battery? What could it be?
TIA
To check that it is the battery turn on the headlights and see if they dim or go out when you try to start. If they do that tells you the starter is drawing current but not getting enough to spin the motor.
do you have a volt meter? check the battery voltage with the car off and with the car running. the batt will read 12.x volts and it will read 14.x when the car is running. if it reads 14.x, the alternator is working fine.
i just went through all this and had to change the stock battery in my 01 cls a couple of weeks ago because it failed to hold a charge. the battery lasted exactly 7 years.
did you add any accessories like lights or maybe stereo equipment? any work done to the car lately?
i just went through all this and had to change the stock battery in my 01 cls a couple of weeks ago because it failed to hold a charge. the battery lasted exactly 7 years.
did you add any accessories like lights or maybe stereo equipment? any work done to the car lately?
The only work that was done on the car recently was an oil change and rear brake pads. The car is stock and I have the stock system in the car, so no stereo stuff could be the culprit. I'm gonna use a few guides I found online to measure the current while pulling some fuses to see if I can at least nail down where the battery is getting drained from.
Fixed
Turns out it was the battery cable terminal. Some corrosion had built up on the inside of it which was causing a bad connection. I used some baking soda/water and a wirebrush to throughly clean it. I also tightened up the connection a lot. Car turned over without a hitch.
Once again, thanks for the help!
Once again, thanks for the help!
mc_yanzo, I 've had a similar problem, exept my CL won't turn over after I pump gas, go into a store, etc. It seems to happen at random times. I also have to input the radio code every time it happens, too. So I hope corrosion might be my issue as well. When you say the battery cable terminal-where exactly do you mean?
Originally Posted by bhurlbut
thanks, I cleaned them up and still have the problem. when I look at the little circular window in the battery, it's not green like it should be. It might be a dead cell?
Sounds like it's not charging or not holding a charge. Get a volt meter and check the battery votage with the car off and with the engine running to see if it's charging.
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