Any interest on HOW TO for removing ABS/TRAC wo/lights?

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Old 09-30-2012, 03:14 PM
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Any interest on HOW TO for removing ABS/TRAC wo/lights?

Just did a quick search on disabling both ABS/Traction Control for the 2G CL/TL and didn't see anything so just wanted know if there's any interest on permanently removing/disabling these system from our cars without indicator lights on the dash. And I don't mean by just removing the LEDs inside the cluster. I'm about to be doing this to my TL-S and would be happy to take some pictures, draw out some diagrams and get as detailed as possible in doing this.

FYI- this entells removing the ABS module/pump and it's associating brake lines from the engine compartment and hydraulically modifying the existing brake system. Also, complete details on modifying all harnesses/existing as well as all related components to keep indicator lights off. I say this just so people know how much is actually involved when doing this and so the assumption of it being an 'easy' task isn't made.

Let me know...
Old 09-30-2012, 06:59 PM
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Definitly would like to see how you do it.
I just pulled my bulb.
Old 10-01-2012, 02:43 AM
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I think it'd be nice to have the bulb and car opposite. Get in the car, traction control off, no light. light flickers when breaking traction but no power loss .
Old 10-01-2012, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by yungone501
Just did a quick search on disabling both ABS/Traction Control for the 2G CL/TL and didn't see anything so just wanted know if there's any interest on permanently removing/disabling these system from our cars without indicator lights on the dash. And I don't mean by just removing the LEDs inside the cluster. I'm about to be doing this to my TL-S and would be happy to take some pictures, draw out some diagrams and get as detailed as possible in doing this.

FYI- this entells removing the ABS module/pump and it's associating brake lines from the engine compartment and hydraulically modifying the existing brake system. Also, complete details on modifying all harnesses/existing as well as all related components to keep indicator lights off. I say this just so people know how much is actually involved when doing this and so the assumption of it being an 'easy' task isn't made.

Let me know...
Meh. I rather keep the systems that help keep me safe on the road. I've used ABS more than once before when I really needed it. Might as well remove the airbags and SRS module while your at it.

But if this is what you want, it's all you then. Make sure to have the service manual or electrical manual on hand to help you out and see where those systems connect to and know what wires to snip.

Originally Posted by mikebikelife
I think it'd be nice to have the bulb and car opposite. Get in the car, traction control off, no light. light flickers when breaking traction but no power loss .
Sounds like you want traction control off all the time.
Old 10-01-2012, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aznboi2424
Meh. I rather keep the systems that help keep me safe on the road. I've used ABS more than once before when I really needed it. Might as well remove the airbags and SRS module while your at it.
Maybe I should've mentioned the fact that this is going to done during a wire tuck and will be done for the soul purpose of cleaning out NON-ESSENTIAL components that not only clutter the engine compartment but also will hinder/affect any performance out on the road.

Originally Posted by mikebikelife
I think it'd be nice to have the bulb and car opposite. Get in the car, traction control off, no light. light flickers when breaking traction but no power loss .
By simply removing the secondary throttle body (the one furthest from the intake manifold) this could easily be accomplished. You will, however, be required to install a high load resistor into the connector that control the motor of the flap and also keep the TPS plugged in (removed from TB) to 'trick' the system into believing that it's still wired in. The high load resistor will need to have a 2.3 ohm value at 25W...and I'm referring to the resistors that are made of white porcelain too btw.
Old 10-01-2012, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by yungone501
Maybe I should've mentioned the fact that this is going to done during a wire tuck and will be done for the soul purpose of cleaning out NON-ESSENTIAL components that not only clutter the engine compartment but also will hinder/affect any performance out on the road.
Yea, I assumed you were going for the clean/minimalist approach. Looking forward to what it looks like. I recently saw a 6th gen Accord with the J30 and they removed the ABS and PS.
So if he could do it, I'm sure we could too.
Old 10-02-2012, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by yungone501


By simply removing the secondary throttle body (the one furthest from the intake manifold) this could easily be accomplished. You will, however, be required to install a high load resistor into the connector that control the motor of the flap and also keep the TPS plugged in (removed from TB) to 'trick' the system into believing that it's still wired in. The high load resistor will need to have a 2.3 ohm value at 25W...and I'm referring to the resistors that are made of white porcelain too btw.

Orly ? and write ups on this ?

And btw, I like abs, not the vsa or whatver brings up the yellow light .
Old 10-02-2012, 12:36 PM
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I am interested in abs delete and how it affects your daily driving. Would be nice to delete abs and set up a proportioning system so you could adjust front to rear bias from the cockpit. That stuff is over my head tho.
Old 10-02-2012, 06:37 PM
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^^^
That was my initial direction on the brake hydraulics but after taking a quick glance at both the master cylinder and ABS pump, it appears that the master cylinder acts as a proportioning valve already. The rear port (closest to firewall) on the master cylinder looks as though it loops through the ABS pump and then to the rear brakes...and then the front port loops as well back then to the front brakes. That was done very quickly without much in depth review on the matter. BUT, I'm pretty certain of that evaluation. Saying that, in order to use an aftermarket brake proportioning valve, we may have to swap the master cylinder to one that is not internally proportioned.

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong...
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