AEM Pulley Problems
Thread Starter
Prez & GC, .Net
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: MD
AEM Pulley Problems
AEM Pulley's are possibly destroying our alternators and draining our batteries.
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=49224
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=18762
Just wanted to get you folks updated. How many have the AEM pulley's installed? How long? Do you have an aftermarket audio system as well?
On the Accord V6's the AEM alternator pulley is presently wreaking havoc on our alternators. Already, at least 8 SHO members have had to replace their alternators AND battery when the alternator pulley doesn't produce enough power to run the acessories.
For all Acura-CL folks. Check your the volatages coming from your alternator, before AND after installing the AEM alternator pulley. The Accord V6 uses a Delphi (GM TRASH) alternator.
If you haven't installed your AEM pulley, please measure the voltages going into your battery. That way, the folks who already have their pulley's can measure there's and we can figure out if the pulley is generating enough energy to recharge the battery. On the Accord V6....w/ the pulley in, it doesn't recharge enough....hence, batteries die within 6 months.
As a moderator for superhonda Accord V6 forum, I'm giving a negative recommendation on purchasing AEM Pulley's until AEM finishes their investigation. Too many folks have had their alternators and batteries die on them and there are series product liability issues now. Complaint letters/emails have already been sent to AEM and they replied that they are investigating the problem.
Dizzy
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=49224
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=18762
Just wanted to get you folks updated. How many have the AEM pulley's installed? How long? Do you have an aftermarket audio system as well?
On the Accord V6's the AEM alternator pulley is presently wreaking havoc on our alternators. Already, at least 8 SHO members have had to replace their alternators AND battery when the alternator pulley doesn't produce enough power to run the acessories.
For all Acura-CL folks. Check your the volatages coming from your alternator, before AND after installing the AEM alternator pulley. The Accord V6 uses a Delphi (GM TRASH) alternator.
If you haven't installed your AEM pulley, please measure the voltages going into your battery. That way, the folks who already have their pulley's can measure there's and we can figure out if the pulley is generating enough energy to recharge the battery. On the Accord V6....w/ the pulley in, it doesn't recharge enough....hence, batteries die within 6 months.
As a moderator for superhonda Accord V6 forum, I'm giving a negative recommendation on purchasing AEM Pulley's until AEM finishes their investigation. Too many folks have had their alternators and batteries die on them and there are series product liability issues now. Complaint letters/emails have already been sent to AEM and they replied that they are investigating the problem.
Dizzy
Suzuka Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,773
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From: PA
Originally posted by Dizzy:
<STRONG>AEM Pulley's are possibly destroying our alternators and draining our batteries.
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=49224
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=18762
Just wanted to get you folks updated. How many have the AEM pulley's installed? How long? Do you have an aftermarket audio system as well?
On the Accord V6's the AEM alternator pulley is presently wreaking havoc on our alternators. Already, at least 8 SHO members have had to replace their alternators AND battery when the alternator pulley doesn't produce enough power to run the acessories.
For all Acura-CL folks. Check your the volatages coming from your alternator, before AND after installing the AEM alternator pulley. The Accord V6 uses a Delphi (GM TRASH) alternator.
If you haven't installed your AEM pulley, please measure the voltages going into your battery. That way, the folks who already have their pulley's can measure there's and we can figure out if the pulley is generating enough energy to recharge the battery. On the Accord V6....w/ the pulley in, it doesn't recharge enough....hence, batteries die within 6 months.
As a moderator for superhonda Accord V6 forum, I'm giving a negative recommendation on purchasing AEM Pulley's until AEM finishes their investigation. Too many folks have had their alternators and batteries die on them and there are series product liability issues now. Complaint letters/emails have already been sent to AEM and they replied that they are investigating the problem.
Dizzy</STRONG>
<STRONG>AEM Pulley's are possibly destroying our alternators and draining our batteries.
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=49224
http://superhonda.org/board/showthre...threadid=18762
Just wanted to get you folks updated. How many have the AEM pulley's installed? How long? Do you have an aftermarket audio system as well?
On the Accord V6's the AEM alternator pulley is presently wreaking havoc on our alternators. Already, at least 8 SHO members have had to replace their alternators AND battery when the alternator pulley doesn't produce enough power to run the acessories.
For all Acura-CL folks. Check your the volatages coming from your alternator, before AND after installing the AEM alternator pulley. The Accord V6 uses a Delphi (GM TRASH) alternator.
If you haven't installed your AEM pulley, please measure the voltages going into your battery. That way, the folks who already have their pulley's can measure there's and we can figure out if the pulley is generating enough energy to recharge the battery. On the Accord V6....w/ the pulley in, it doesn't recharge enough....hence, batteries die within 6 months.
As a moderator for superhonda Accord V6 forum, I'm giving a negative recommendation on purchasing AEM Pulley's until AEM finishes their investigation. Too many folks have had their alternators and batteries die on them and there are series product liability issues now. Complaint letters/emails have already been sent to AEM and they replied that they are investigating the problem.
Dizzy</STRONG>
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 82
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From: Southern NJ
Why would it suprise that the battery isn't charging?? the whole concept of pulleys is to reduce parasitic power losses from the drivetrain. If you reduce the power required to charge the battery you get more power to the wheels. Of course the downside is you ruin your electrical system. The is always a tradeoff between speed and comfort. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 807
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
I haven't noticed any problem with mine. I also haven't measured any sort of electrical currents. I was wondering though how the pulleys reduce the power loss (is it thier diameter or is the belt they use different) thanks
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,373
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From: Chicago, IL USA
The diameter.
Originally posted by MtBikR:
<STRONG>I haven't noticed any problem with mine. I also haven't measured any sort of electrical currents. I was wondering though how the pulleys reduce the power loss (is it thier diameter or is the belt they use different) thanks</STRONG>
<STRONG>I haven't noticed any problem with mine. I also haven't measured any sort of electrical currents. I was wondering though how the pulleys reduce the power loss (is it thier diameter or is the belt they use different) thanks</STRONG>
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S/C'd Accord Coming Soon!
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Lafayette, LA | Houston, TX (Weekends)
I don't know about the amperage, but the voltage is way too low when the car is at idle. I've had my pulleys for almost 1 year with almost 20,000 miles and no probs BUT I also spend a lot of time on the freeway where my battery has a chance to be fully recharged. People that drive a lot of short trips or spend a considerable amount of time in stop and go traffic are definitely at risk.
You can buy a voltmeter for 20 bucks and check your voltage at the battery with the car turned off (should be close to 12.5 volts) with the car running at idle (should be b/w 13.8 - 14.3 volts) and with various accessories enabled. Your voltage should always stay in the 13's but with my car at idle with NO accessories turned on, I'm at 12.7 - 12.8 volts. Just turning on the A/C can drop my voltage down to 12.4 - 12.5. Turn on the headlights and I'm down to the 12.2 area.
Don't assume your car is ok because your battery hasn't died yet, CHECK IT OUT!!! We need to let AEM know if they were a little too aggressive with their under driving of the alternator.
You can buy a voltmeter for 20 bucks and check your voltage at the battery with the car turned off (should be close to 12.5 volts) with the car running at idle (should be b/w 13.8 - 14.3 volts) and with various accessories enabled. Your voltage should always stay in the 13's but with my car at idle with NO accessories turned on, I'm at 12.7 - 12.8 volts. Just turning on the A/C can drop my voltage down to 12.4 - 12.5. Turn on the headlights and I'm down to the 12.2 area.
Don't assume your car is ok because your battery hasn't died yet, CHECK IT OUT!!! We need to let AEM know if they were a little too aggressive with their under driving of the alternator.
Thread Starter
Prez & GC, .Net
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57
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From: MD
U'd probably want to check the voltages to make sure. Since the CL alternator seems to be stronger, it should be properly recharging the battery. I drove about 3500k before my alternator died.
A properly designed pulley should give you the gains and STILL produce just enough power to recharge your battery. Like I said before, the only way to be 100% sure is to check the voltages.
Dizzy
A properly designed pulley should give you the gains and STILL produce just enough power to recharge your battery. Like I said before, the only way to be 100% sure is to check the voltages.
Dizzy
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,373
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From: Chicago, IL USA
I like aggressive =)
Originally posted by BNut:
<STRONG>I don't know about the amperage, but the voltage is way too low when the car is at idle. I've had my pulleys for almost 1 year with almost 20,000 miles and no probs BUT I also spend a lot of time on the freeway where my battery has a chance to be fully recharged. People that drive a lot of short trips or spend a considerable amount of time in stop and go traffic are definitely at risk.
You can buy a voltmeter for 20 bucks and check your voltage at the battery with the car turned off (should be close to 12.5 volts) with the car running at idle (should be b/w 13.8 - 14.3 volts) and with various accessories enabled. Your voltage should always stay in the 13's but with my car at idle with NO accessories turned on, I'm at 12.7 - 12.8 volts. Just turning on the A/C can drop my voltage down to 12.4 - 12.5. Turn on the headlights and I'm down to the 12.2 area.
Don't assume your car is ok because your battery hasn't died yet, CHECK IT OUT!!! We need to let AEM know if they were a little too aggressive with their under driving of the alternator.</STRONG>
<STRONG>I don't know about the amperage, but the voltage is way too low when the car is at idle. I've had my pulleys for almost 1 year with almost 20,000 miles and no probs BUT I also spend a lot of time on the freeway where my battery has a chance to be fully recharged. People that drive a lot of short trips or spend a considerable amount of time in stop and go traffic are definitely at risk.
You can buy a voltmeter for 20 bucks and check your voltage at the battery with the car turned off (should be close to 12.5 volts) with the car running at idle (should be b/w 13.8 - 14.3 volts) and with various accessories enabled. Your voltage should always stay in the 13's but with my car at idle with NO accessories turned on, I'm at 12.7 - 12.8 volts. Just turning on the A/C can drop my voltage down to 12.4 - 12.5. Turn on the headlights and I'm down to the 12.2 area.
Don't assume your car is ok because your battery hasn't died yet, CHECK IT OUT!!! We need to let AEM know if they were a little too aggressive with their under driving of the alternator.</STRONG>
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,493
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL
Originally posted by NOVAwhiteTypeS:
<STRONG>You also got to realize the TypeS has a stronger alternator than teh cl-p and accord.
and plenty of people hadn't had a problem.</STRONG>
<STRONG>You also got to realize the TypeS has a stronger alternator than teh cl-p and accord.
and plenty of people hadn't had a problem.</STRONG>
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,373
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL USA
Yes I do. I had pulleys on my GS-R for over 20k miles with a system, and had only 1 incident. I was bumping the music on idle, and I turned the car off. When I tried to restart it, it didnt have enough power. As long as you rev up your car you will not have any problems. I'm still waiting for my pulleys to come in, on my Type S. RED AEMs are backordered for 4 weeks.
Spiro
Spiro
Originally posted by Infamuz:
<STRONG>SPIROH, you have a system in your car?</STRONG>
<STRONG>SPIROH, you have a system in your car?</STRONG>
Retired Post Whore
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,901
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From: Matawan NJ
You guys better tell me soon. I have a 1400 and 800 watt amp in my car with 2 1 farad capacitors. Should I still change the alternator pulley in the car? I also put a Sears Die Hard Gold in my car too..any suggestions?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,373
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From: Chicago, IL USA
Are they class D or class ab amps? Class Ds are more effecient, and wont drain as much as AB would. I have a 600w, and a 1200 w amp in my car. One being class D, and the other class ab. I am gettign the pulleys installed in my car. I dont think I will run into any issues. I cant guarantee anything until I get them installed though.
Spiro
Spiro
Originally posted by Infamuz:
<STRONG>You guys better tell me soon. I have a 1400 and 800 watt amp in my car with 2 1 farad capacitors. Should I still change the alternator pulley in the car? I also put a Sears Die Hard Gold in my car too..any suggestions?</STRONG>
<STRONG>You guys better tell me soon. I have a 1400 and 800 watt amp in my car with 2 1 farad capacitors. Should I still change the alternator pulley in the car? I also put a Sears Die Hard Gold in my car too..any suggestions?</STRONG>
S/C'd Accord Coming Soon!
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 908
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From: Lafayette, LA | Houston, TX (Weekends)
All I ask is that you guys check your voltage at the battery when your car is at idle... with and without accessories (stereos, headlights, AC, defroster, etc) turned on.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,601
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From: VA
Originally posted by BNut:
<STRONG>All I ask is that you guys check your voltage at the battery when your car is at idle... with and without accessories (stereos, headlights, AC, defroster, etc) turned on.</STRONG>
<STRONG>All I ask is that you guys check your voltage at the battery when your car is at idle... with and without accessories (stereos, headlights, AC, defroster, etc) turned on.</STRONG>
Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 701
Likes: 2
From: Maywood, NJ
Guys- its not the voltage you need to check- its the amperage. The oem system is designed to supply enough amps at idle to handle the full electrical load. When you change the pulleys, the output drops at idle because the speed decreases thus reducing the output. You can read 13.0 volts and still only have less than 5 amps out. We have installed the pulleys and I personally did see see a performance increase that you could feel. They are probably best for racing applications- for the street with amps,systems,lights and cruisn'- who knows?
Banned
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 9,151
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From: Somewhere between here and there, yet neither.
Originally posted by wayneg:
<STRONG>Guys- its not the voltage you need to check- its the amperage. The oem system is designed to supply enough amps at idle to handle the full electrical load. When you change the pulleys, the output drops at idle because the speed decreases thus reducing the output. You can read 13.0 volts and still only have less than 5 amps out. We have installed the pulleys and I personally did see see a performance increase that you could feel. They are probably best for racing applications- for the street with amps,systems,lights and cruisn'- who knows?</STRONG>
<STRONG>Guys- its not the voltage you need to check- its the amperage. The oem system is designed to supply enough amps at idle to handle the full electrical load. When you change the pulleys, the output drops at idle because the speed decreases thus reducing the output. You can read 13.0 volts and still only have less than 5 amps out. We have installed the pulleys and I personally did see see a performance increase that you could feel. They are probably best for racing applications- for the street with amps,systems,lights and cruisn'- who knows?</STRONG>
Also...if you guys are worried...get a dry cell battery.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,014
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From: Hellertown, Pa. USA
Just for reference, I DON’T have the pulleys, but when I am sitting at a RED light idling at night with the tunes CRANKING my headlights & dash lights tend to dim to the BASS beats.
I have a single KICKER 400 Watt AMP.
I don’t have any power Caps, but I probably should get one.
I wouldn’t even think of putting pulleys on this car if you are running any kind of system with even a single AMP.
Shawn S
I have a single KICKER 400 Watt AMP.
I don’t have any power Caps, but I probably should get one.
I wouldn’t even think of putting pulleys on this car if you are running any kind of system with even a single AMP.
Shawn S
![[VTEC]TL's Avatar](https://acurazine.com/forums/customavatars/avatar9297_1.gif){kind=avatar}
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Originally posted by [VTEC]TL:
<STRONG>What type of alternator do the regular TL/CL's have?
Allan</STRONG>
<STRONG>What type of alternator do the regular TL/CL's have?
Allan</STRONG>
CLS -- 120 AMP max
Comment:
The charging system is more complicated than some people think. What may work well on one configuration of car, may not work too well on another.
Some of the newer alternators are combined with "smart logic" to charge the battery during deceleration (if you are going to slow down, why not let the alternator help out...). These systems will try to boost the charge at idle IF there has not been enough deceleration to give the battery enough of a charge.
If someone has an older battery (a marginal one) or a ton of electrical load above factory specs, they are probably asking for trouble if they are playing their 400-Watt amps at full volume for extended idling periods.
[ 08-03-2001: Message edited by: EricL ]
S/C'd Accord Coming Soon!
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Lafayette, LA | Houston, TX (Weekends)
Currently I have TWO amps, a 350 watt sub amp, and a 240 watt mids/highs amp. I've never had problems, but I haven't tempted fate either... I turn the radio down when I'm at a stop light, or off if I get stuck in a traffic jam. If I'm in the middle of a really bad wreck where traffic isn't moving, I'll occasionally slip the gear into neutral and reve the engine to 1,500rpms to make sure the battery is getting some juice.
Wayne how can we measure the amperage that our our alternator is producing? My volt meter can only measure up to about 10 amps.
Wayne how can we measure the amperage that our our alternator is producing? My volt meter can only measure up to about 10 amps.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Originally posted by BNut:
<STRONG>Currently I have TWO amps, a 350 watt sub amp, and a 240 watt mids/highs amp. I've never had problems, but I haven't tempted fate either... I turn the radio down when I'm at a stop light, or off if I get stuck in a traffic jam. If I'm in the middle of a really bad wreck where traffic isn't moving, I'll occasionally slip the gear into neutral and reve the engine to 1,500rpms to make sure the battery is getting some juice.
Wayne how can we measure the amperage that our our alternator is producing? My volt meter can only measure up to about 10 amps.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Currently I have TWO amps, a 350 watt sub amp, and a 240 watt mids/highs amp. I've never had problems, but I haven't tempted fate either... I turn the radio down when I'm at a stop light, or off if I get stuck in a traffic jam. If I'm in the middle of a really bad wreck where traffic isn't moving, I'll occasionally slip the gear into neutral and reve the engine to 1,500rpms to make sure the battery is getting some juice.
Wayne how can we measure the amperage that our our alternator is producing? My volt meter can only measure up to about 10 amps.
</STRONG>
Look up current shunt!
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Originally posted by BNut:
<STRONG>Currently I have TWO amps, a 350 watt sub amp, and a 240 watt mids/highs amp. I've never had problems, but I haven't tempted fate either... I turn the radio down when I'm at a stop light, or off if I get stuck in a traffic jam. If I'm in the middle of a really bad wreck where traffic isn't moving, I'll occasionally slip the gear into neutral and reve the engine to 1,500rpms to make sure the battery is getting some juice.
Wayne how can we measure the amperage that our our alternator is producing? My volt meter can only measure up to about 10 amps.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Currently I have TWO amps, a 350 watt sub amp, and a 240 watt mids/highs amp. I've never had problems, but I haven't tempted fate either... I turn the radio down when I'm at a stop light, or off if I get stuck in a traffic jam. If I'm in the middle of a really bad wreck where traffic isn't moving, I'll occasionally slip the gear into neutral and reve the engine to 1,500rpms to make sure the battery is getting some juice.
Wayne how can we measure the amperage that our our alternator is producing? My volt meter can only measure up to about 10 amps.
</STRONG>
BTW -- most of the newer amps are either class D or use very little power at low volumes. If anyone is running a class-A amp, then all bets are off...
They "good" amps have efficient switching power supplies and will NOT use a lot of power unless your ears are bleeding (or hurting).
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Here is a link for anybody who wants to make a dirt cheap current shunt using some #8 wire...
link to (Making and Using a High Current Shunt):
http://members.tripod.com/~Wrenchbender/shunt.html
link to (Making and Using a High Current Shunt):
http://members.tripod.com/~Wrenchbender/shunt.html
S/C'd Accord Coming Soon!
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
From: Lafayette, LA | Houston, TX (Weekends)
Originally posted by EricL:
<STRONG>Here is a link for anybody who wants to make a dirt cheap current shunt using some #8 wire...
link to (Making and Using a High Current Shunt):
http://members.tripod.com/~Wrenchbender/shunt.html</STRONG>
<STRONG>Here is a link for anybody who wants to make a dirt cheap current shunt using some #8 wire...
link to (Making and Using a High Current Shunt):
http://members.tripod.com/~Wrenchbender/shunt.html</STRONG>
I'd rather spend $70 at radio on something that can "safely" measure the amps than have my non-engineering azz trying to rig up something.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Originally posted by BNut:
<STRONG>
Thanks for the info, but I'm not that brave. I'd rather spend $70 at radio on something that can "safely" measure the amps than have my non-engineering azz trying to rig up something. </STRONG>
<STRONG>
Thanks for the info, but I'm not that brave.
I'd rather spend $70 at radio on something that can "safely" measure the amps than have my non-engineering azz trying to rig up something. </STRONG>
The picture of the shunt, is a what you will find around:
Picture:
"MKA-100-100: 100 amp 100 mv shunt"
This would give you a .01 Volt reading for every 10 amps of current draw (up to 100 amps)...
link: http://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html
[ 08-03-2001: Message edited by: EricL ]
Suzuka Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,388
Likes: 1
From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
Originally posted by Infamuz:
<STRONG>How can you tell what class is your amp? Whether it's an A or D class?</STRONG>
<STRONG>How can you tell what class is your amp? Whether it's an A or D class?</STRONG>
The class D design is a PWM (Pulse width modulator/switching) design and is very efficient. Unless I am mistaken, most of the class D makers will let you know, since the units are very efficient.
The "bulk" of the mainstream amps will use AB class operation.
An article on audio power amps/op amps:
http://www.edtn.com/analog/c018.htm
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