curls

So I was on the last of the 4 corners, installing my new Tokico shocks, and I ran into a brick wall -- stripped left endlink @ the suspension (not at the swaybar). I got it about 1/2 off but can't get it any further because the hex, which is normally a 5mm, is probably about 5.25mm now and spins somewhat -- enough that the hex cannot hold the force it requires to remove the nut.

Aside from replacing the endlink and having to cut it off w/ a hacksaw, I have already tried using penetrating oil and it didn't help (obviously the nut isn't fully seized, so that's why the oil didn't help.

I had an idea to use a rotary tool (Dremel-like) to cut a slot in the top where the hex currently is, making it possible to use a large flat screwdriver to hold the bolt while I get the nut off of there. Has anyone tried this? It'll be hard to work in such a tight area but it's probably the only chance I have of finishing this install by Monday (since finding a new endlink @ a decent price on a Sunday is going to be impossible).

scheißterhöffer

I stripped the hex head on the sway bar side. I was able to get it to work with the 5mm hex key by putting the key in and pulling it a bit to alter the angle that it grabs at. The best way I can explain it is to have you picture putting the hex key into the RSB side of the end link. Then put the handle portion of the key parallel to the part of the sway bar that attaches to the end link (not parallel to the long part going from one side of the car to the other). Then basically put your hand around both the hex key and sway bar and try to squeeze them together. This somehow allowed the key to grip enough on the non-stripped portion of the hex head to turn the bolt. If the head is not stripped to bad, perhaps a similar thing will work for you. Good luck.

DixonTSX

A little off topic, but did you blow your OEM shocks? Or just swapping them out just because?

jihan3

I had the same problem - I didn't think of cutting a slot at the end of the bolt, that's a good idea and worth a shot.

Worst case, you can always cut the end link off and take the sway bar out until you find new end links - the car won't corner as well, but it'll still drive fine.

aaronng

Why do you need to take off the endlink to change your shocks? I did coilover installs without touching the endlinks. Get someone to push then the hub with their foot while you slide the shock in.

curls

They're bouncier than I like, and because of an insurance claim from some lady hitting me and destroying the RF shock, I got 4 new Tokico's and 4 new General Exclaim UHP'f for about $500 out of my pocket. Worth it, IMO.

curls

Helm's says it's necessary, and after doing the RR shock, I can see why -- nearly impossible to get the clearance req'd to get the assembly out w/o having the sway bar link out of the way.

curls

Got 'er fixed. Ended up using a mini-hacksaw to cut off the link and using vice-grips to get the rest of it off once the hacksaw had cut about 1/2 of it. Had to take the angle grinder to the swaybar side of the endlink as that one was seized too. I managed to find a TRW brand endlink @ Canadian Tire for a decent price - $26.65. It has a MUCH better system, where it uses a 14mm socket and a 14mm wrench (no hex bullcrap!). I thought about replacing the other side endlink as well, but maybe another day.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the repair. Now that it's fixed, make sure to apply some anti-seize on the end-link threads so you won't have the same problem again.

aaronng

Nearly but not impossible. I have installed a set of Tein SS and Airrunners without having to remove the endlink. You do have to get a mate to use his whole bodyweight to stand on the hub though. Not a 1 man/woman job.

curls

I was doing this solo today. My wife was tending to our daughter, so she wasn't able to come help. I managed to brace myself against the wall and use my shoe on the hub/lugs to push down while my two hands bumped and manouvered the assembly in there. It's not an easy job WITH the endlink off, I wouldn't even want to try w/o removing the endlink. Probably would have scratched the shocks more than I already did on the L side. Superficial scratches, not down to bare metal, so it's not worrisome in the least.

curls

Good thinking. I'll do that this week for sure.

visuelz

Use a wrench to grab the other side of the endlink and then just use the ratchet.

curls

You didn't read the thread did you? The OEM endlinks leave nothing to grab, making the use of the 5mm hex basically all but mandatory.

I ended up cutting it w/ a mini hacksaw and an angle grinder, and replacing it w/ one that uses a better design (wrench and socket, no 5mm hex!).

LukeaTron

For future reference, you can get these things called bolt extractors that would have worked perfectly. It's a hardened steel bit that's square on one end and looks kind of like a tapered drill bit on the other with very aggressive flutes. The flutes run counter-clockwise. The idea is you drill a hole in the end of the stripped bolt and tap the bit in with a hammer. Then you put a wrench on it and unscrew the bolt. Because the flutes are reverse thread it makes the bit want to bite into the metal so it can a grip. In this case you wouldn't have even needed to do the drilling.

Those things are a life saver and for $10, totally worth having in your tool box.

EDIT: The turning it into a giant flat head screw can be effective too but a lot of the time getting the angle it make the cut is difficult.

jumpmanbsktbll

Heres the solution: a nut cracker. Crack the nut holding the endlink on, and buy new MOOG endlinks which are much better than stocks. Search for a thread I made on this exact point.

LukeaTron

What makes them so much better? Just out of curiosity.

aaronng

It is an endlink centre thread, not a bolt. The threaded part does not come off, but has a ball joint connecting it to the endlink.

visuelz

I stripped my hex but I was still able to use my method.

Knifey

It's out congrats. But for what it's worth, I've had some success - not on an endlink, but in general - with using an Allen key ever so slightly larger than the now stripped hole and hammering the hell out of it. If the key is a stronger metal than the bolt/screw/whatever, the bolt will deform to the key and it will come out.