AlterZgo

If the dampers are fully turned all the way clockwise to the stop (there is a definite stop - don't force it beyond this point), then you have adjustability of two full 360 degree counter-clockwise turns. Adjustments are done at 180 degrees at a time.

After some experimenting, I've gone back to 1 full 360 degree counter-clockwise turn (starting from full clockwise). This gives improved handling and near stock like ride quality on my set up.

virtualbong

Alright, I'll use this setting as well when I finish up the install tonight...hopefully.

virtualbong

Alright, need some more help. I remove the bolts on the rear shock, but I can't push away the stabilizer link after removing the nut bolt. So right now the shock doesn't want to budge. I need help asap, thanks!

xizor

personally I always remove the black bracket from the knucle, its only 1 bolt.

AlterZgo

You remove the stabilizer link bolt and the stabilizer link pivots away.

You remove the bolt going through the bottom of the shock.

You remove the 2 top bolts holding the upper shock mount.

At this point, the key to getting the shock out is to lift the rear shock up slightly, then out. See JTso's post #22 in his A-spec install thread. The shock is held in place by a little groove in the shock support. Therefore, it will not come out unless you lift the shock up a little bit to clear the groove in the lower shock support. You can also push the shock support down as you lift the rear shock up.

virtualbong

Went back down and figured it out on my own. The stabilizer link was at an angle so I just jacked up the suspension a little until it was parallel and I was able to pull it out of the bracket.

My next issue was where to freakin' put the spring compressors. I did the whole thing to find out that when I decompressed, it didn't give enough room to remove the spring compressors, so I had to take the whole thing out again and put the compressors lower on the springs and then had my mom screw in the top bolt with me pushing down on it. This has been a good learning experience so far, but damn is this agonizing at times.

Oh yeah, after installing the rear right suspension back in, I remember that I forgot to change the dampening, so I had to remove the freakin' suspension so that I can adjust the dampening. That's where I'm at now. I came up here to verify the dampening setting then I'm going back to finish up the rear right and start the rear left. The rear left should be cake hopefully.

This is the last thing, the seat cushion bolt...now if I stripped it, is it really needed? I actually tightened it when I was trying to loosen it and I accidentally stripped it. I'm hoping that its not a huge necessity. I'll get it fixed at some point but it won't be a major hazard right?

virtualbong

This install just won't end. I just installed the first setup in the rear and when I let the jack down, the suspension doesn't compress, so I have this 3-4 inch wheel gap. Man, someone just come over here and do this for me, LOL

Please help me finish this install

xizor

which seat cushion? the side bolsters, I don't even have mine screwed on so I can pop them out easily and adjust my tein's, so if that's the one I'd say its safe.

xizor

pics? I have no idea how the suspension wouldn't compress, something has to be under a ton of pressure and it should be the spring

virtualbong

The bolt that holds the seat cushion in place. The seat bolster bolts are fine.

AlterZgo

That 1 bolt should not be a major issue b/c the hook will still be there to hold the back of the seat cushion in place and the front of the seat cushion is still held in place by the two front clips.

AlterZgo

Virtual,

Check your PM.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Post some pics of where the problem area is...

virtualbong

Just replied to your pm. It was definitely the spring seat. I reviewed my steps and saw the dumass mistake I made. Fixed everything, finally got everything installed, put the seat cushions back and went for a quick drive around the block. Everything seemed great, acceleration didn't have that horrid lurch and handling improved. I still need to go for a longer drive, but overall

I thought I was all good and done until I started cleaning up. I ran into some washers and I was like, what are these for...low and behold I read the paper that came with the washers in the bag and they're the washers that go outside of the rear shocks. FUCK! Do I really need these washers? I don't know if I can get the side bolsters out again. When I was putting it back on, I tried to take it out just to see if it could, but it wouldn't give. So I'm screwed if I need to loosen the top bolts. I can though try to get the bottom out of the shock supports and try again, but I really don't know how those washers would fit. It was a really tight fit without the washers. I couldn't imagine getting them on the outsides.

virtualbong

I just noticed that there's differences in adjustment listed. One says that clockwise is softer while another says clockwise is firmer. What's the difference? And is this for all four shocks?

I currently have all four set to 360 degrees counterclockwise (after full clockwise turn). The ride this morning felt a little bouncy on the highway. It seemed like I could feel every little bump on the road, but it did rebound nicely. I don't know if its because I need to get used to it or I adjusted the dampening incorrectly. What are people's thoughts?

xizor

well it doesn't sound like your ride is "bouncy" if the rebound is good. You can feel bumps because of the stiffer spring rate, there's no way to get around that, the springs wont soak up every bump anymore.

virtualbong

Yeah, I reread my post afterwards, but I couldn't edit it anymore. But do people get somewhat nauseous after awhile from the constant bumps? I'm pretty sure I have everything set at the same setting, so why does it still feel kinda weird on flat roads? Even my Integra with just lowering springs and close to blown out shocks feel better on flat roads. I don't know, maybe its me. I'm going to keep driving it this week and see how everything goes. If people have other suggested settings, please let me know. Thanks!

AlterZgo

With respect to adjustment of the Koni shock, turning the adjustment knob results in one direction results in adjustments to both compression and rebound damping in opposite directions.

Compression damping is the downward stroke of the shock. Increasing compression damping makes it harder to compress the shock. This reduces bodyroll, but decreases bump compliance. Therefore, if you increase compression damping, you will notice the small bumps more as the suspension will not soak those bumps up. This is true up to a point. If you do not have enough compression damping, then the car will be more prone to bottoming out and going over a large bump will cause the suspension to bottom out and that makes for a very harsh ride. This is why some suspension set ups w/ super stiff spring rates don't feel harsh - b/c the spring rates are high enough that the car does not bottom out. Small bumps are more noticeable, but w/no bottoming out, the car never feels super harsh when hitting a large bump.

Rebound damping pertains to the upward stroke of the shock. When you run a stiffer spring, you need more rebound damping b/c stiffer springs rebound w/ more force than softer springs. If you run a stiffer spring w/o addt'l rebound damping - like say adding aftermkt springs to stock shocks, the ride quality gets bouncey b/c the stock shocks are too weak to control the shock on the rebound (upward stroke).

So, why does Koni make their shocks adjust rebound and compression in opposite directions? If you think about it, it sort of makes sense. Stiffer springs need more rebound damping, but less compression damping. Since the spring starts out stiffer already, there is no sense to *increase* the compression damping which would make the compression stroke of the suspension even stiffer.

IMO, I would much prefer independently adjustable rebound and compression damping. But, I think the Konis can be adjusted to an acceptable trade-off btw ride quality and handling.

Right now, with my Konis set at 1 full turn all around, I think the ride quality w/ my Comptech 155 springs feels very soft and compliant. I'd like to increase compression damping a bit more, but that would require that I decrease the rebound damping which I do not want to do. So, I think I'm at a good compromise.

I don't know the spring rates or characteristics of your Neuspeed springs so I wouldn't be able to point you in a direction that would be best for you. You should check out some of JTso's older posts for some tips as he was running your exact set up for a while.

You should start w/ the front suspension and try various settings - do it methodically and stick with a setting for a few days to see how you like it. Try 1/2 turn at a time. When you have the front behaving in an acceptable manner, try adjusting the rear shocks 1/2 turn at a time. Drive it for at least a couple of days per adjustment and you may be able to hone in on a setting that you like.

virtualbong

AlterZgo, you have been very helpful. Thank you for the explanation. Right now, my ride is near stock. I may have to make some adjustments when I put my new wheels on, but as of right now, I think the 1 full turn all around is working fine.

rmpage

I love this thread.

Hey VB, you gonna do a review with pics? Can't wait to see your ride dude.

virtualbong

I'll be getting my digi cam back from my gf tonight, so I'll have pics by tomorrow night. I don't have that much experience with aftermarket suspension so I'm not sure what to write about. Some of the improved handling factors that I have noticed are:

1. Minimal lurch at acceleration from a stop
2. Minimal nose dive at a quick stop
3. Minimal body roll when taking turns at higher speeds (I'm sure this would be eliminated with the addition of a rear sway bar)
4. Quick rebound after going thru a bump on the highway
5. Close to stock comfort (real close IMO)

Overall, I am a very satisfied customer though I still need more time driving on it.

One more thing, the front seems lower than the 1.5" drop Neuspeed stated for the front. My front wheel gap was at 2.5" before and now it seems like there's only about .5-.75" wheel gap. That is on the stock height setting of the Neuspeed Konis. The rear was set one notch down from the stock setting and there's still close to a 1" wheel gap. Overall, I really like the drop. You'll see what I'm talking about after I take pics and post them.

btw. my TSW Volcanos came in yesterday I'm going to wait until Saturday to put them on after I clean the outside and inside of my car

Oh, I will offer my services for Mass. people who are thinking about installing their suspension on their own. That is, if you offer food, drink and I have time to help out. It took me about 15 hours total for the install, but I think I could spank it out in 4-5 hours (a little over 1 hour per section)

(note: I started using an impact wrench for the springs compressors for the rear which saved my back from more pain)

Hmmm.....maybe I'll take pics of all the tools I used for this install. Someone remind me later.

virtualbong

Here are all the tools I used for the suspension install (didn't use jackstands, but you could):

Hydraulic jack to jack up the car at each spot:


Socket wrench to remove wheels:


Another hydraulic jack to help with removal of suspension:


Smaller socket wrench to help with bolt above lower bolt and upper mount bolts:


Wrench to help remove rear upper bolt:


Another socket wrench to help with lower shock bolt:


Hex Key for disassembling stock suspension:


Impact wrench to make the compression of spring much quicker:


Springs compressors:


Drill to widen the dustboot:


WD-40 to give the rubber mounts a little slickness for the metal rod:


Handsaw to widen bumpstop opening:


And a sneek peak of what I'm putting on this weekend...

taxidriversingh

Is that a scratch on the wheel on the bottom right?

Tsx536

I'm guessing it's just a reflection from the flash or a light.

virtualbong

No, its some gunk that I need to clean off. It does look like a scratch doesn't it, LOL. I would of been pissed if it was!

JPL530i

can't wait to see your whip

racerwannabe

Sorry to bump up such an old thread but I'm in the process of installing the neuspeed kit and I'm not sure which is the left and which is the right front shocks? My car didn't come with stock suspension so I can't use it to match..basically, is the left the driver side? Thanks heaps.