I looked at some DIY pictures from other forums/users, I looked at the parts that came with the Progress RSB, and I looked at the parts on my car (mounts & endlinks) that I had to remove... but things aren't going properly.

So far, I broke an allen key while trying to remove the endlink nut and I broke a bolt that goes in one of the mounts. Obviously, I'll need to replace that bolt. It also appears that I stripped the end-link bolt while trying to remove the nut.

I'm reviewing my options as far continuing this on my own. It seems like I may need to get new end-links since I stripped the allen key end of the end-link bolt. If that's true, would anyone recommend any particular set?

Have other folks come across these issues when upgrading the rear sway bar?

 

This is a very common experience, exacerbated by the fact that your car is at least 6 years old. The OE end links are hard to remove even under the best of circumstances. The whole allen wrench thing is a major pain in the butt. My suggestion is to do whatever you have to to get them off, then use aftermarket replacements. I used (and recommend) Moog replacement end links. They're available at a few places; I used Amazon (as cheap as anyone I think and they'll ship for free). If you need them right way though, you'll have to find them (and pay the full boat price) locally. The parts numbers are: K90342 (RH), $21.06 at Amazon, K90343 (LH), Amazon price is $24.10 (go figure on the different prices). They're a much beefier unit, easier to install (just wrenches), and they have grease fittings too.

 

Thanks for this advice.

I see the Moog listings on Amazon. I haven't checked auto-part stores, but that doesn't seem unreasonable. I don't think I need them with any urgency; I drove the car today and it feels basically the same. That makes me question the OEM bar and end-links though since I was expecting worse handling in turns. I think I can hear the bar moving around a little though since I did loosen the end-link connections and broke that bolt.

 

I had the same experience, and was very happy to find out that my local parts store had the Moog's in stock!

 

I ordered those Moog end-links from Amazon. Hopefully I can install this next weekend. I think I should continue removing the bar (maybe tomorrow evening) to make sure I'll have the right size bolts to re-install (thinking about replacing the other three bolts when I get to that point) and drive without the OEM bar entirely. The noise is quite annoying and the bar isn't doing anything now anyways.

 

The Moog end-links arrived yesterday so I dedicated time to work on the bar again.

Step one was to remove the old bar. I couldn't work with the old, stripped, end-links so I used a Saws-All to cut through them. Then, to get the remaining halves out, I removed the plate they attach to which involved removing the main strut bolt (to a point where the plate was loose), an attaching bolt, and the bolt holding the brake line in place. I used a hack-saw to cut through the old end-link. I accidentally shaved the plate a little bit with the saw but sprayed an anti-rust compound to coat the exposed metal. I had to do this for both sides.

Step two was to drill-out the broken bolt. This was a pain. Thankfully, the mount is open on the other end and I could just drill with bits of increasing size. It took a chisel to actually break out the remaining pieces.

Step three was to finally install the new end-links and bar. This was much easier than removal and the Moog end-links are a 'god-send' to work with. Unfortunately, I have to get new mounting bolts as I could only use one in each mount for now. I kept the third (of four) to take to a hardware shop to get four new ones.

This whole process took 4.5hrs and my arms are beat from drilling up-ward for a long time to get the broken bolt out.

I can't give a solid reflection on the bar yet as there are two bolts missing. I'm driving a bit carefully so I don't ruin anything. I hear the bar clank a little when the struts go up/down due to road conditions. Laterally, though, it feels great.

 

You probably want to make sure you have the proper grade of bolt, too, as I can see those taking a fair amount of stress from the torsion in the bar.

 

Definitely. And maybe applying a little anti-seize upon installation, granted though that I don't think I'll be removing it any time soon.

 

When I installed my RSB two weeks ago, I bought new endlinks and all new hardware from Acura before attempting. I'm really glad I did because, although not as bad as your experience, getting mine off was a total PITA. The old links were completely destroyed. I put tons of anti-seize on the threads when I reinstalled.

After you get your bolts, make sure to re-torque everything. In the service manual, it says to attach the links and tighten them up with a jack under the knuckle to apply the proper weight to the suspension. Then it says after everything is tight, drive the car for 5-10 minutes, then re-torque everything.

 

This is a good read. I'll be installing the a-spec suspension and progress rsb on my buddies TSX in a couple weeks. From previous rsb installs on different cars, the problems the OP had were what I was expecting on the TSX (2004 with 80k+ miles).

 

Well, I bought four steel bolts that were a few millimeters longer than stock to account for the increased size in washer (only a hair but the body mount allows bolts to pass through to an extent). When I went to install them into the mounts, I found that my mounts were nearly FUBAR due to the torsion applied over two days. I had to use a vice and hammer to mend them back into proper shape. After that, while installing the bolts, I noticed I knicked the sides of the hole where I had to drill-out the broken bolt. While driving a new bolt into place, I noticed the threads are pretty garbage. Thankfully, there's space above the hole so that I can put a nut on the other side if this scheme won't hold. I have the bar set to the outer hole to be a little less aggressive. I also added grease to the end-links since they have grease fittings.

There wasn't any clunking while driving to work today. It still feels tight when turning at different speeds. I'll check it after driving it for a bit to check the mounts and maybe try the more aggressive bar setting.