My friend and I plan to install my RSB tonight. I bought the energy suspension poly bushings to use instead of the rubber Comptech ones. My question is this: To eliminate creaking/clunking caused by poor lubrication of the bushings, should I use the Formula-5 Pre Lube (Energy Suspension - came with the bushings), OR, should I use teflon tape (plumbers tape), OR, something else, OR, both??

The bushings are the non-greaseable type (no Zerk fittings).

Also, should Loc-Tite be used on the endlink 5mm hex bolt threads to prevent it seizing up in a few years' time, or is this a bad idea?

Anything else I should keep in mind / consider?

Thanks!
Eric

 

I have always used the Formula-5 pre-lube without any problems. I guess it won't hurt to also try the teflon tape if other people are having good results. You don't want to use loc-tite on the thead, use anti-seize instead. To make the job easier, loosely mount the endlinks on the RSB first so the bar is supported and easier on the D-bushing centering.

 

I recommend using teflon tape. I used it and have had no noise issues over the past year.

 

can anyone recommend which energy bushing should i buy?
what's the part #?

 

I think you'll find your answer in this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28215

 

Son-of-a-bitch...

We got one side off no problem. Ran into major problem with the drivers' side endlink. Both of them were starting to rust ,and any 5 or 5.5mm hex wouldn't fit - it just spun. No matter what we tried (extractor bits, Torx bits, etc...), nothing could work. We had to resort to cutting the endlink bolts, as the nuts were already 1/2 off when we ran into the seizing problems.

So now I have to get a new endlink (NOT CHEAP!! ARGH!).

Driving around without any sway bar is, well, understeer-friendly. LOL. I just look forward to going from NO swaybar, to 22mm swaybar. Should be a drastic improvement.

 

I was in the same situation as you were. Go purchase the endlinks at Honda, not Acura. They have the same part number (for both sides), but at Honda, it was half the price.

 

I planned to call both Honda and Acura, and I also know someone at a Honda dealer that might get a 20-25% discount, too.

Part number for the BEEFED UP Accord stabilizer kit is: 06523-S84-A00 -- is this right?
(The part number for the original TSX endlink, left, is 52325-SEC-A01, correct? This is according to a Honda parts site. I don't know if the Canadian part numbers will be the same, but the links are the exact same, right?

 

HOLY CRAP. Called a few dealers in the area (and one in the States), and they now only sell the endlinks in PAIRS, for $85 USD or $95 CDN. This is getting to be one freakin' expensive mod...

Anyone down in the US have the ability to check if they can get just one (drivers' side) from a dealer in the area (part number 52325-S84-A01) and have it mailed to me? Maybe some dealers have the singles still in stock.

 

^ Yea, that's what i paid. If you call Acura, is going to be double the price...

 

Strangely enough, Acura always seems to be exactly the same price as Honda, for common parts. At least here in Ottawa it seems.

I called my aftermarket parts supplier and he has AllTrim replacements for the 98-05 Accord (same as TSX) for $37.00 each. 1 year warranty, and he says they should be the exact same as (or stronger than) the OEM endlinks. I'm going that route.

 

Got the bar installed today... WOW, what a difference. I was looking for the most twisty route home from my friends' house, just to test the limits on on/off ramps and tight corners. The bar makes such a difference... FLAT cornering, really nice feel, and you just feel so connected to the road now.

 

Congrats on the final install! Did you end up getting the aftermarket end links? Are they stronger than the OEM ones? Any pics?

 

Didn't take pics, sorry.

The aftermarket end LINK *only needed one) was made by AllTrim, and according to my always-reliable and trustworthy parts supplier, is OEM-quality or better. It seemed the exact same as the OEM one but w/o the 4 "dots" on the backside of each small ball joint. The endlink bar itself looks strong, and the weld perfect.

For $35 CDN, well worth it. I might change the stock one on the passenger side to the same aftermarket one at some point, but I think it's fine as-is.

 

Exactly my problem, however I had it stuck on both sides. I was scared to tear the threads so I took it to a shop. They just took a clamp and got the bolt off. Didn't even use the hex slot. Took them about 30 minutes so it only ran me $32

Saved me a lot of stress and I love the RSB.

 

Put my progress sway on this past weekend. Had a slight problem with the rusting endlinks. Alot of liquid wrench and the control arm trick..took out the bolts from the endlinks in 20 min.

The control arm trick is to extend the hex key so that it lies on the control arm. I used a long socket and just turn the nut with a wrench.

Hardest part was putting the car on ramps (couldn't find anything to prop the ramps up against)

 

I wish it was just rusting endlinks... mine were rusting 5mm hex hole, meaning any kind of force in there just disentigrated the hex, making it a round hole...

Only solution was a hacksaw (and grade 10 bolts aren't easy to cut w/ a regular hacksaw, LOL)

 

wher can i oreder these energy suspension poly bushings?

 

www.summitracing.com, I believe, has them.

I called my local parts guru and he got them for $20 CDN + tax, which is really good considering they're like $15 USD online + shipping, or thereabouts.

 

kool thanks,,,, also, what is the bracket size?

 

You want these:

Energy Suspension part number 9.5126G

Cross-reference at www.energysuspension.com if you want the size, but that is the exact set of bushings you need (black in color, graphite impregnated, perfect size bracket).