joerockt

Ok, so what better way to spend part of your Saturday night then modding your TSX!

Most people who have installed this mod say its quite easy, and it was, but there are a few gotchas and hopefully this will help you to be aware of them.

So, first things first, tools. You will need at least a Ratchet (smaller then the one in the pic, not much clearance when you get under there) with a 12mm socket, 14mm Cresent wrench (or adjustable like in the pic), and a 5mm Hex key:



Now, get the rear of your car up on jackstands and remove the endlink nuts. You will need the Cresent or Adjustable wrench and the Hex key. Insert the Hex key at the end of the thread. If you dont do this, the nut will just spin in place. Repeat to other side.



Next, grab your ratchet and remove the 14mm bolts. NOTE - on the driver's side, one of the bolts is very close to the exaust piping. Your going to need a SMALL rachet for this one.



Remove the bar. This was simple, installing the new bar is a bit more difficult, at least for me it was Comparison of bars:



A bit more thicker eh?

Ok, so now comes the part were I got frustrated cause I just couldnt get the damn bar in the correct way to fit So, no pics here, BUT all you need to do I found eventually is just remove the passenger side rear tire. That made things MUCH eaiser getting over the exaust.

So, once the new bar is in place, get your cracked bushings. This isnt manadatory, but I put silicon grease inside each bushing. Dont want any squeaks :



Just pop them on the bar, put the bracket over, and hand thread the bolts with the supplied washers. Hand thread all 4 and leave them. You will need some play when attaching the end links.

Grab your hex key and wrench and tighten up the end link nuts.

Finally, ratchet the 4 bolts in place. DONE.

So, after the install, I drove around for about 5 or 10 mins to let it settle in. When you get back, re-torque your nuts and bolts and your good to go!

Took me about two hours, but about 1/2 hour was trying to figure out the best way to get the new bar in.

Hope this helps!

virtualbong

Nice write up! I'll need to bookmark this thread so that I can refer to it at the end of summer when I make this mod most likely.

Dan Martin

Nice writeup.

joerockt

Thanks guys...

sauceman

Added to the DIY reference list in FAQ!

Good job, Joe.

xizor

so thoughts?

dzuy

good writeup

joerockt

Just like everyone's says, the car feels "tighter" on turns, swerving, etc. Didnt get a chance to really throw it around yet since I was just letting it settle in. I will soon though...

BusyShifter

Impressive... and the pictures are great!! Do you think the job can be done by a layman?

sleeper

great diy thread. can't wait to see all the cars/mods at the meet.

mg7726

another satisfied owner

Tsx536

Great writeup Joe

Have fun with the new Sway!

joerockt

Ok, so I've been driving with the new sway for a few days now, and I have noticed something.

Dose anyone else notice that the steering is a bit more sensitive now? Almost "floaty" like, which to me is good and bad I guess. I like the new responsiveness, but I've found that on the highway, any sudden move and your going in that direction quick!

I love cornering even more now. Feels so hooked up...

kurt_bradley

I love the increased turn-in at highway speeds. It makes backroads much more fun.

jlukja

Good DIY writeup Joe.

rep points for you.

GIBSON6594

Do you need to lift all 4 four wheels? or just the back 2?

joerockt

Just the back two.

Alin10123

Where exactly do you put the jackstands? Which suspension component do you rest the weight on?
Or, if it's not a suspension component, is there a specific place to put the jackstands?

kaikai114

there are 2 groves for jacking up the rear of the car, right under the side in front of the rear wheels.

-KC

Alin10123

Ok, so if that's the jacking point. I put my jack there? So where do i place the jackstands when i let out the jack?

Dan Martin

If you have a decent jack, you can lift the whole rear at once by lifting at the rear jack point (in the middle behind the rear bumper) and slide the stands in on the side. Don't even think of trying it with the jack that came with the car though. You should have a good 2-3 ton hydraulic jack.

moda_way

Yeah, good job!!

When I did the springs you sold me, I just used my impact to get the end link bolts of. They practically flew across my garage, so I think if you use hand tools, you will need the hex key, but I didn't. I was also able to torque them down without the hex key since it is a very small amount of torque needed.

I can't wait to get mine now.

joerockt

LOL...Yea, I need to get me some air tools. I have a good compressor, just need that IR.

moda_way

It makes everything so much easier. When I did the springs you sold me, I couldn't imagine trying to do it by hand. Here is the order I would get air tools:

1/2" Impact Wrench
3/8" Right angle
Cut off wheel (I have a air power dremel like tool which you can get cutoff wheels for.... VERY HANDY)

SiHawk

In my experience, Teflon tape (as used for plumbing) works better than silicon grease to prevent squeaks. Especially long term, as it doesn't wash out or gather dirt.

Alin10123

No no, no factory jack. I have a hydraulic jack that can lift 3 tons i think. Or 2.5 tons. Something like that. Heck... it lifted my 4runner without fuss, i think it can left the TSX. lol

So... i use the middle jacking point behind the rear bumper. Will there be a flat spot or something that i'll be able to tell exactly where? Then i place the jackstands where the factory jack would lift the car on both sides?

joerockt

Its not a flat spot, it actualy looks like a tow hook point (which it may double as). Its basicaly two rings welded together. You cant miss it...

joerockt

Good suggestion, thanks!

Dan Martin

It's not flat, it looks like two steel loops welded together. Hard to describe, but you'll see it when you're under there. I found some pictures of where it is: http://www.pbase.com/typetsx/inbox

TSXDude

Question regarding the rear jack point. When i put my floor jack and raise the rear tow hook, it hardly lifts the tire up. Is there another point i can use and still be able to put the jackstand in front of the rear wheel?

Dan Martin

You just need to lift as close to one end of the lifting point as possible and slide the jack in next to it.

xizor

I usually jack the rear up by the side points. They're not "jack points", they're intended for hydraulic lifts, but they work perfectly. they're on the front and rear of the side sills, L pieces of metal sticking out.

TSXDude

Do you mean the point right in front of the rear tire?? Yea, i use that point when i swap my wheels, but how can i put a jackstand onto that point if i have a jack supporting it already?

xizor

its in the manual on the next page. just get under the car and look, you'll see it

Alin10123

EEEErrr? Seriously?
I never knew that! Are you serious?
The grease has worked for me in the past. But are you saying with the teflon tape there are NO squeeks and you pretty much NEVER have to apply new tape?
wow!

bigwilliestyle

Interesting, I have squeaks and no grease...

Alin10123

SiHawk

Yes, it really works... I learned this trick from a friend a few years ago, and have used it on my own cars.

Put a few wraps of Teflon tape around the sway bar at the bushings, and you'll be set for a long time with no squeaks.

CJams

I just put my Comptech RSB on this weekend. To my amazement, it handles even better than it did before. Lots less body roll! I likey!

joerockt