First time at the track
#3
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disappointed at the track:(
hey im back from the track and im a little disappointed with what i got. its my first time but i was running consistent the whole night. my best run was a 16.4. i should be able to get better than that.my first run ever i got 16.9 because i got so much wheel hop when i dumped the clutch it was crazy. it wasnt until i shifted till it stopped, vsa was off for the rest of my runs i had vsa on because the wheel hop didnt occur when i had it on. ill get the numbers for you guys. please give me some feedback on how i can get better.
reaction- .2131
60- 2.5646
330- 7.0871
1/8- 10.7787 at 66.87mph
1000- 13.8569
1/4- 16.4987 at 86.41
thats my best run which is very disappointing to me but its my first time so maybe next time. please give me some feedback thanks.
reaction- .2131
60- 2.5646
330- 7.0871
1/8- 10.7787 at 66.87mph
1000- 13.8569
1/4- 16.4987 at 86.41
thats my best run which is very disappointing to me but its my first time so maybe next time. please give me some feedback thanks.
#4
Team Owner
iTrader: (1)
Don't dump the clutch, next time. The TSX doesn't take too kindly to it and gives wheel hop as a result. Consider feathering the clutch a bit instead.
Launch from a lower RPM. Many magazines discovered that they got the best acceleration times by launching from around or below 2000 rpm.
When you shift, do not completely lift off the throttle as you normally would while driving. Several magazines indicated that they got substantially better acceleration times by using a no-lift shifting technique.
Keep in mind that to acheive the best acceleration times, it's gonna be hard on your car so don't be too surprised if something breaks eventually.
Launch from a lower RPM. Many magazines discovered that they got the best acceleration times by launching from around or below 2000 rpm.
When you shift, do not completely lift off the throttle as you normally would while driving. Several magazines indicated that they got substantially better acceleration times by using a no-lift shifting technique.
Keep in mind that to acheive the best acceleration times, it's gonna be hard on your car so don't be too surprised if something breaks eventually.
#5
Special-K
If you launch from 2500rpms to 3000rpms and feather it until you catch traction around 5500 and 6000 that will net you better times and a better feel for the car and your best launch technique. I usually start at 2500rpms and correct myself if any mistakes or if 2500 was too low i'll try the next run at 2800 or higher and keep the same technique throughtout that run and see how i do after.
#6
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by CGTSX2004
Don't dump the clutch, next time. The TSX doesn't take too kindly to it and gives wheel hop as a result. Consider feathering the clutch a bit instead.
Launch from a lower RPM. Many magazines discovered that they got the best acceleration times by launching from around or below 2000 rpm.
When you shift, do not completely lift off the throttle as you normally would while driving. Several magazines indicated that they got substantially better acceleration times by using a no-lift shifting technique.
Keep in mind that to acheive the best acceleration times, it's gonna be hard on your car so don't be too surprised if something breaks eventually.
Launch from a lower RPM. Many magazines discovered that they got the best acceleration times by launching from around or below 2000 rpm.
When you shift, do not completely lift off the throttle as you normally would while driving. Several magazines indicated that they got substantially better acceleration times by using a no-lift shifting technique.
Keep in mind that to acheive the best acceleration times, it's gonna be hard on your car so don't be too surprised if something breaks eventually.
someone on k20a.org got freaking 650 whp out of a K20a2 head, K24a1 block, rsx-s tranny.
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#11
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Originally Posted by outersquare
So little faith in your own car.
someone on k20a.org got freaking 650 whp out of a K20a2 head, K24a1 block, rsx-s tranny.
someone on k20a.org got freaking 650 whp out of a K20a2 head, K24a1 block, rsx-s tranny.
#13
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by sauceman
Obviously, you don't drive a 650hp car the same way you would a stock 200hp with no slicks on.
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Originally Posted by outersquare
my point was, if people are holding 500+ WHP out of almost all stock parts, you're probably not gonna break anything with no power adders.
BTW, 500+whp + stock parts = highly unreliable
#15
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by sauceman
Except maybe burn a clutch if you're not careful with the way you launch, because the technique CGTSX2004 was talking about is indeed the best way to do it, but is also harder on the clutch and if on the line you hold your clutch close to friction point and hold back with the handbrake, if the other guy takes to long to stage, feathering the clutch when you launch may well leave you with a badly scorched, if not a completely useless clutch.
BTW, 500+whp + stock parts = highly unreliable
BTW, 500+whp + stock parts = highly unreliable
#16
Team Owner
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Originally Posted by outersquare
if anyone had bothered reading the thread, he's had it at 500 whp for a couple months. he did compression checks along the way and it's still fine.
I don't disagree that the engine internals could probably take the beating, but the drivetrain components, like clutches, bearings, half-shafts, etc, are going to take a lot of stess and can break. I'm not saying they will 100%, but it's something for anyone who is drag racing regularly to consider.
#17
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by CGTSX2004
Dude...learn to READ!! We're not necessarily discussing engine internals. The drivetrain does include several things like the CLUTCH, and related parts, that can wear or even break due to the high stress of a drag launch.
I don't disagree that the engine internals could probably take the beating, but the drivetrain components, like clutches, bearings, half-shafts, etc, are going to take a lot of stess and can break. I'm not saying they will 100%, but it's something for anyone who is drag racing regularly to consider.
I don't disagree that the engine internals could probably take the beating, but the drivetrain components, like clutches, bearings, half-shafts, etc, are going to take a lot of stess and can break. I'm not saying they will 100%, but it's something for anyone who is drag racing regularly to consider.
If my car started breaking parts from a 16.5 second run, I'd throw it away and get something not built like trash.
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Originally Posted by outersquare
If my car started breaking parts from a 16.5 second run, I'd throw it away and get something not built like trash.
Ignorance is bliss.
#20
Jesus you guys piss and moan at each other alot.
16.40's @ 86'ish mph isnt that bad at all for your first time out. At least you can be thankful you're not running 17.0 @ 82 mph like my stock '05 5AT ran....6 tenths and 4 mph is a BIG difference in the 1/4 mile world. Your car's got extra weight in it too with all that stereo crap in the trunk. You'd probably pick up another tenth if you took all that out.
You definitely dont want the wheels to hop like that when you leave the line...very bad on the driveline hard parts (tranny, diff, CV axles, etc.) You're much better off slipping the clutch (releasing it a little slower than normal) and keeping traction. dropping the tire pressure will also help kill the hop.
Theyre right though, racing is pretty hard on most cars, especially if its a manual tranny. Not something you should do often if you would like you car to hold up.
16.40's @ 86'ish mph isnt that bad at all for your first time out. At least you can be thankful you're not running 17.0 @ 82 mph like my stock '05 5AT ran....6 tenths and 4 mph is a BIG difference in the 1/4 mile world. Your car's got extra weight in it too with all that stereo crap in the trunk. You'd probably pick up another tenth if you took all that out.
You definitely dont want the wheels to hop like that when you leave the line...very bad on the driveline hard parts (tranny, diff, CV axles, etc.) You're much better off slipping the clutch (releasing it a little slower than normal) and keeping traction. dropping the tire pressure will also help kill the hop.
Theyre right though, racing is pretty hard on most cars, especially if its a manual tranny. Not something you should do often if you would like you car to hold up.
#21
Originally Posted by sauceman
Yeah, you should get something solid like a WRX, better yet an STi. I bet those would handle clutch dumps a whole lot better. After all, they're built to be raced aren't they?
Ignorance is bliss.
Ignorance is bliss.
I've seen more STi's blow out some expensive driveline part on a drag launch than i care to remember.
#22
Port & Polish Everything
Originally Posted by sauceman
Yeah, you should get something solid like a WRX, better yet an STi. I bet those would handle clutch dumps a whole lot better. After all, they're built to be raced aren't they?
Ignorance is bliss.
Ignorance is bliss.
#23
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Sure, then just add a plain old A4, a whole bunch of Accords and many other good cars.
The point is, (also the point of this thread) you won't find any cars stock that are specifically built to drag race. If you do chose to race your car, don't be surprised if something goes, especially if you're careless, because you are effectively abusing it.
No need to make a big fuss about it, it's just how things are. That shouldn't prevent you from having fun with it if you are ready to assume it.
The point is, (also the point of this thread) you won't find any cars stock that are specifically built to drag race. If you do chose to race your car, don't be surprised if something goes, especially if you're careless, because you are effectively abusing it.
No need to make a big fuss about it, it's just how things are. That shouldn't prevent you from having fun with it if you are ready to assume it.
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Originally Posted by Brandon24pdx
The only AWD'er I've ever heard of that can stand up to heavy dragstip abuse without serious modification were the old Skyline GT-R's.
I've seen more STi's blow out some expensive driveline part on a drag launch than i care to remember.
I've seen more STi's blow out some expensive driveline part on a drag launch than i care to remember.
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Originally Posted by sauceman
Yeah, you should get something solid like a WRX, better yet an STi. I bet those would handle clutch dumps a whole lot better. After all, they're built to be raced aren't they?
Ignorance is bliss.
Ignorance is bliss.
#27
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went back to the track again
hey guys just got back from the track. my best times before was a 16.4 today my best run was a 15.8 at 88.7mph this better time was dude to a better launch my 60ft was a 2.4 and also thanks to my new reflash from hondata. all the runs after the 15.8 was 16.1 was all i was getting. hows that sound to you guys?
#28
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Originally Posted by outersquare
So little faith in your own car.
someone on k20a.org got freaking 650 whp out of a K20a2 head, K24a1 block, rsx-s tranny.
someone on k20a.org got freaking 650 whp out of a K20a2 head, K24a1 block, rsx-s tranny.
Anyway, that motor went boom the other day. We even have the video
http://media.putfile.com/Onix-blown-motor
and here some pics of the car
#29
Motor:
K24a1 crv STOCK block
K20a2 rsx STOCK head
K20a2 rsx STOCK 6spd Trans
Precission 1600cc Injectors
CM Twin Disk Clutch
Walbro Intank 255lph Fuel Pump
One-Fab GT35R custom Turbo Kit
646.90whp - 522.40tq @ 7600rpm
K24a1 crv STOCK block
K20a2 rsx STOCK head
K20a2 rsx STOCK 6spd Trans
Precission 1600cc Injectors
CM Twin Disk Clutch
Walbro Intank 255lph Fuel Pump
One-Fab GT35R custom Turbo Kit
646.90whp - 522.40tq @ 7600rpm
#30
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by WlcTL
hey guys just got back from the track. my best times before was a 16.4 today my best run was a 15.8 at 88.7mph this better time was dude to a better launch my 60ft was a 2.4 and also thanks to my new reflash from hondata. all the runs after the 15.8 was 16.1 was all i was getting. hows that sound to you guys?
#31
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Originally Posted by dom
This integra that run 9.5 seconds with an exit speed of 165mph is using it. I believe at around 10500 RPM he is getting 165mph with 5th gear...lol on drag slicks It is a destroked k24a motor with the best components the industry has to offer...
Check it out on the finals against a WRX
http://www.intrinsicperformance.com/...reet-Final.wmv
Of course, I am not suggesting that you guys make your TSX like this... It is always nice to see FWD cars like this though
#32
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Originally Posted by CGTSX2004
Don't dump the clutch, next time. The TSX doesn't take too kindly to it and gives wheel hop as a result. Consider feathering the clutch a bit instead.
Launch from a lower RPM. Many magazines discovered that they got the best acceleration times by launching from around or below 2000 rpm.
When you shift, do not completely lift off the throttle as you normally would while driving. Several magazines indicated that they got substantially better acceleration times by using a no-lift shifting technique.
Keep in mind that to acheive the best acceleration times, it's gonna be hard on your car so don't be too surprised if something breaks eventually.
Launch from a lower RPM. Many magazines discovered that they got the best acceleration times by launching from around or below 2000 rpm.
When you shift, do not completely lift off the throttle as you normally would while driving. Several magazines indicated that they got substantially better acceleration times by using a no-lift shifting technique.
Keep in mind that to acheive the best acceleration times, it's gonna be hard on your car so don't be too surprised if something breaks eventually.
- dumping the clutch
- feathering the clutch
Thanks for avoiding the "were you born yesterday?" comments.
#33
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Originally Posted by clearlycanadian
This may seem overly obvious to some, but can someone define the following:
- dumping the clutch
- feathering the clutch
Thanks for avoiding the "were you born yesterday?" comments.
- dumping the clutch
- feathering the clutch
Thanks for avoiding the "were you born yesterday?" comments.
Feathering the clutch means you will throttle as hard, but will let the clutch slip somewhat to reduce the wheelspin and get better grip.
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