This is my first post here. I posted this on the other forum but I'm looking for maximum feedback. Anyway,
I've noticed mostly on colder morning (but otherwise every morning in general) my car starts but barely. It cranks a bit then, right before it fires up, it hesitates/chokes/struggles. This happens almost exclusively after sitting for a while (i.e. overnight) and normally won't ever happen throughout the rest day after the initial weak start in the morning. Battery is relatively new (less than one year old and the voltmeter shows it's good), spark plugs were done about 15,000 miles ago along with the air filter so I'm not sure where to look.

Check the video out (turn the volume up high and listen to it struggle right before starting; it's worse in person)

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Not having knowledge with these cars, does the starter sound strong? To me it seems a little sluggish but figuring out why it's worse in the morning and why it struggles is the problem.

It's not giving any other weird symptoms (such as fuel pump, it drives and idles fine) so I'm not sure what to look for. Starter? Alternator? I'm really lost but I'm close to replacing the starter which would start it up quicker I'm sure but would that fix the struggle? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks. I look forward to the site.


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I can't watch the video (need Flash installed), but from reading your comments, it looks like the same issue I had. I ended up replacing the starter. There is a thread here on stater replacement and it also includes some of the symptoms others enable experienced prior to the starter going bad. Good luck.

 

Thanks. The cranks seem strong but it needs many cranks to start and then right before starting, it hesitates. The starter doesn't show obvious signs of failing other than the many cranks required to start it. Why does it only happen after sitting for a while/overnight?
Either way, that's my hope and I'll be doing the starter within the next month. Honda dealer wants about $250 in labor for the starter. Not sure if that's really worth saving me the headache of doing it myself.

 

Try starting by first "priming" fuel rail. Turn keyswitch to On and let Check Engine Light go off. Repeat twice. Attempt to start.

If this improves starting problem is fuel pressure related; fuel pressure regulator, check valve in pump, weak pump, blocked inlet screen.

good luck

 

^thanks, I've already done that. Any other suggestions?

 

Shop manual says check battery, check fuel pressure, and clean throttle body to address hard starting.

Just checking battery voltage is not enough to confirm battery is good. You need to test after loading w/ headlights for 1-2 minutes. Voltage should be > 12V.

If priming test did not affect starting fuel pressure check may not be worth effort.

Clean throttle body by opening throttle plate w/ gas pedal and keyswitch On. Don't force throttle plate open.

Suggest also checking battery cables for voltage drop. Voltage drop under starter load should be <0.5V. If greater, replace or repair cables.

good luck

 

Thanks for the detailed response!
I'll take it to the shop for them to check electrical stuff and voltage during starting- for what it's worth, my battery is relatively new so I can pretty much rule that out.
I still want to think its the starter but I'm open to other suggestions of course.

 

Mechanic I know said it's one of two things:
1. Fuel Pump/Check valve - he said prime it with key before starting a couple times, I did that and it didn't help so I can pretty much rule this out
2. ECT sensor; makes sense but I don't have a CEL and mine was replaced about one year ago with a CEL so having it go bad or faulty already doesn't make sense.
Any other thoughts? It's starting to piss me off now so any other suggestions would be appreciated before I start wasting money.

FWIW, I'll replace the ECT again because it's so cheap but I don't expect that to work. I'm really lost because battery, plugs, filter, starter all seem good.

 

Starter current draw is 80A or less at 11.5V battery voltage (under load). This test might ID low current draw (high resistance battery cable), however voltage drop test earlier suggested would do same.

good luck