TSX Starter Replacement Guide
02-03-2016, 09:29 AM
#81
Hi TexasHonda. Could you send me the TSX starter replacement thread with pictures if you still have it. My email in q_gaskin@yahoo.com Thanks.
regards
09-18-2016, 11:04 AM
#83
Looks like it might be one of the bolts holding a wiring harness down. Shank is designed to bottom out and prevent crushing of harness.
YouTube has numerous videos on Accord and TSX 2.4L starter replacement.
good luck
YouTube has numerous videos on Accord and TSX 2.4L starter replacement.
good luck
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DTM (10-13-2016)
10-13-2016, 03:12 PM
#84
I just wanted to give an update and share my lessons learned so that others may learn from my mistakes.
First of all, thank you TexasHonda, I was able to locate the correct placement of the bolt from that youtube vid that's going around. It was indeed to mount a wiring harness down and it is located behind the coolant reservoir.
Now, for my lessons learned...
When I first put back the intake manifold I wanted to make sure I torqued the bolts back to spec. I believe the correct spec is 16ft/lb. The lowest my torque wrench went was 20 ft/lb, so me being overly cautious I wanted to avoid any chance of cracking the manifold at 20 ft/lb so I decided instead to tighten by hand.
Immediately when driving, I knew something was wrong. When accelerating, especially in 1st and 2nd gear (I have a 6 spd) the car would have a noticeable rough acceleration, particularly when the RPMs went over 4k or so. The feeling was similar to a bucking horse. Best way to describe it. It would make me nauseous so I would always have to keep the RPMs low. Either way, it made driving extremely unsatisfying for lack of better words.
The embarrassing part was I drove around like that for a good couple weeks. I procrastinated. The thought of the intake manifold not being torqued correctly popped up in my head but I also dismissed it as it really couldn't possibly make THAT much of a difference could it? Also, the fact that my engine was always too hot to work on when I had time to look at it plus the fact I did not have the correct tools.
So finally today I bit the bullet and worked on a semi-hot engine..I loosened all of the intake manifold bolts. Then retightened them to 20ft/lb using this patter: Center, Left Outer, Right Outer, Left Inner, Right Inner.
Started the car and drove around town...
Let's just say the issue is completely fixed now and the car PULLS HARD all the way to redline, no hesitation whatsoever.
Amazing how a little thing like that can mess things up so much. So something to keep in mind when putting your manifold back on.
First of all, thank you TexasHonda, I was able to locate the correct placement of the bolt from that youtube vid that's going around. It was indeed to mount a wiring harness down and it is located behind the coolant reservoir.
Now, for my lessons learned...
When I first put back the intake manifold I wanted to make sure I torqued the bolts back to spec. I believe the correct spec is 16ft/lb. The lowest my torque wrench went was 20 ft/lb, so me being overly cautious I wanted to avoid any chance of cracking the manifold at 20 ft/lb so I decided instead to tighten by hand.
Immediately when driving, I knew something was wrong. When accelerating, especially in 1st and 2nd gear (I have a 6 spd) the car would have a noticeable rough acceleration, particularly when the RPMs went over 4k or so. The feeling was similar to a bucking horse. Best way to describe it. It would make me nauseous so I would always have to keep the RPMs low. Either way, it made driving extremely unsatisfying for lack of better words.
The embarrassing part was I drove around like that for a good couple weeks. I procrastinated. The thought of the intake manifold not being torqued correctly popped up in my head but I also dismissed it as it really couldn't possibly make THAT much of a difference could it? Also, the fact that my engine was always too hot to work on when I had time to look at it plus the fact I did not have the correct tools.
So finally today I bit the bullet and worked on a semi-hot engine..I loosened all of the intake manifold bolts. Then retightened them to 20ft/lb using this patter: Center, Left Outer, Right Outer, Left Inner, Right Inner.
Started the car and drove around town...
Let's just say the issue is completely fixed now and the car PULLS HARD all the way to redline, no hesitation whatsoever.
Amazing how a little thing like that can mess things up so much. So something to keep in mind when putting your manifold back on.
09-17-2018, 10:37 PM
#85
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Just replaced my starter. All of the sudden, car would not crank over, but all lights would come on as normal. Tapped Starter with metal rod, but did not help. Using multimeter, Starter terminal was getting 12 volts, and ground was good. Upon replacing, the new starter cranked and turned over just fine, and car started. The starter was only 18 months old when it died, but Autozone replaced for free with limited lifetime warranty. when I disconnected the bad starter, I hooked it up using the battery cables and it turned over/cranked just fine. However, it was apparent the starter was going bad. I have some photos if needed.
03-21-2021, 03:10 PM
#86
Thx Robert Rodriguez...that's actually good to know about your old starter..how it worked just hooking it to battery but not on car.
I too have come to the point where all of a sudden my car won't crank. The signal wire is getting battery voltage while cranking so it obv needs a starter. I haven't quite made it to getting the original one off the car yet. (I'm stuck on the bolt under the intake manifold..it's really corroded and hard to get to..I can feel it with my left hand but it took 4evr to get a wrench on it using my right hand. Prob would have helped had I remembered the right size wrench..I also got stuck when I got to the wiring harness right in front of the bolt so it was awhile between removing the other bolts and this last one). I decided to put a couple of bolts back to hold the front manifold on better and realized it was 12mm rather than the 10mm I had been trying to use!
Anyway, I plan to go back out and spray WD40 on the bolt and try again here shortly.
My bf thinks I'm gonna tear my car up trying to replace the starter myself (& doesn't even trust that it's the starter that's the prob) but it's gotta be..either that or something mechanically preventing the starter motor from turning. I mean if it's getting voltage it should run, ya know?! Anyway, I know I'll feel a sense of accomplishment once I get the thing running and get to be like "told ya so" to my bf.
I too have come to the point where all of a sudden my car won't crank. The signal wire is getting battery voltage while cranking so it obv needs a starter. I haven't quite made it to getting the original one off the car yet. (I'm stuck on the bolt under the intake manifold..it's really corroded and hard to get to..I can feel it with my left hand but it took 4evr to get a wrench on it using my right hand. Prob would have helped had I remembered the right size wrench..I also got stuck when I got to the wiring harness right in front of the bolt so it was awhile between removing the other bolts and this last one). I decided to put a couple of bolts back to hold the front manifold on better and realized it was 12mm rather than the 10mm I had been trying to use!
Anyway, I plan to go back out and spray WD40 on the bolt and try again here shortly.
My bf thinks I'm gonna tear my car up trying to replace the starter myself (& doesn't even trust that it's the starter that's the prob) but it's gotta be..either that or something mechanically preventing the starter motor from turning. I mean if it's getting voltage it should run, ya know?! Anyway, I know I'll feel a sense of accomplishment once I get the thing running and get to be like "told ya so" to my bf.
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