How to Replace Spark Plugs
06-28-2009, 08:51 PM
#41
still plays with cars
06-28-2009, 09:07 PM
#42
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nope, your plugs come dry. Your torque specs are also designed for dry threads. If you put an anti-seize compound on them, you should reduce your torque when installing them since they'll actually be tighter if you don't.
10-21-2009, 03:20 PM
#43
I just replaced the plugs on my 05 (w/ 107K miles) and thought I'd add my two cents. These instructions are good (though I get nothing but a red X for pictures; maybe they're gone) but overall I found the job nowhere near as involved or complicated as these seem to make it out to be at first blush. First, remove the bolt holding the clamp that holds the power steering hose that runs over the engine. Then remove the black plastic cover that's bolted over the coil packs. There are two studs and two nuts that screw onto studs that hold two of the coil packs, but it's self explanatory and no big deal. Remove the fasteners that hold the coil packs (one fastener for each; two with bolts, and two with the aforementioned studs). I drew a little diagram for the fasteners just to make reassembly easier. I unplugged each coilpack as I moved from right to left (facing the engine) and removed the coilpacks and replaced the plugs one at a time. I left the coilpacks out until I had all the plugs replaced and then re-installed all the coilpacks at the same time. I used a 5/8" plug socket with a rubber insert to remove the plugs (so it would pull the plug out with the socket) and a 5/8" plug socket without a rubber insert to tighten the plugs (I was afraid the socket would get stuck on the plug and I'd have trouble getting it out). I should have torqued the plugs, but I forgot. I question how critical that step is, but I'm not going to advise against it. I'm confident they'll be OK though. Basically just put everything back together and you should be good to go. I used NGK Iridium plugs (that's what was in there) part number NGK 6994. I found them on Amazon for $48.43 delivered (for 4) and that was best deal I found.
10-21-2009, 06:28 PM
#44
Someone stole "My Garage"
For the torquing of the plugs, NGK says to hand-tighten until its seated (using no ratchet, just the extensions, is the safest way). Then once you reach the seat, attach the ratchet and turn 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn. NO MORE, NO LESS. There are torque specs if you have a torque wrench and I believe they are 18 - 21 ft-lbs.
The above is for a plug with gasket (metal), non-conical shape, in an aluminum head. This is exactly what the TSX has and uses.
FWIW, I found the plugs at Advance Autoparts (in Ogdensburg, NY, just across the border from me) for $9.99 each. That's the OEM NGK iridiums like you quoted. IZFR6K-11 (6994).
The above is for a plug with gasket (metal), non-conical shape, in an aluminum head. This is exactly what the TSX has and uses.
FWIW, I found the plugs at Advance Autoparts (in Ogdensburg, NY, just across the border from me) for $9.99 each. That's the OEM NGK iridiums like you quoted. IZFR6K-11 (6994).
10-22-2009, 09:10 AM
#45
For the torquing of the plugs, NGK says to hand-tighten until its seated (using no ratchet, just the extensions, is the safest way). Then once you reach the seat, attach the ratchet and turn 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn. NO MORE, NO LESS. There are torque specs if you have a torque wrench and I believe they are 18 - 21 ft-lbs.
The above is for a plug with gasket (metal), non-conical shape, in an aluminum head. This is exactly what the TSX has and uses.
FWIW, I found the plugs at Advance Autoparts (in Ogdensburg, NY, just across the border from me) for $9.99 each. That's the OEM NGK iridiums like you quoted. IZFR6K-11 (6994).
The above is for a plug with gasket (metal), non-conical shape, in an aluminum head. This is exactly what the TSX has and uses.
FWIW, I found the plugs at Advance Autoparts (in Ogdensburg, NY, just across the border from me) for $9.99 each. That's the OEM NGK iridiums like you quoted. IZFR6K-11 (6994).
10-22-2009, 07:56 PM
#46
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Here's a TB from NGK regarding the Gapping of plugs..
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...sparkplugs.pdf
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...sparkplugs.pdf
04-14-2010, 11:02 AM
#47
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Make sure engine is cold!!!!!!. or...you run risk of stripping threads during removal.
Didn't want to start a new thread but since I didn't find the info on here I wanted I thought I'd write it up. Reading this ahead of time will save you time doing it believe me.
Remove the 4 capbolts on the coilpack cover. Note that the 2 center bolts hold 2 coil packs underneath. When you remove these two there is a stud threaded at both ends. The whole thing may or may not come out of the block. In any event it doesn't matter. This could happen to the two others as well. Wrench size 10mm.
After removal the coil packs are visible. #2 and #4 coil packs have bolts holding the coilpacks in place-remove them. If the studs for the other 2 don't come out..remove them as well. Bottom line remove all 4 bolts holding coil packs. Next move the coilpacks counterclockwise and clockwise to the extent possible to break bottom of boot lose from the top of plug. This will allow you to pull the coilpack and boot out easier.
Push in the right side of the tab (see below and at the same timd pry off connector with a flat blade screwdriver. Twist it slightly in the space between the connector and the coilpack. This is the most difficult part of the job.
Move the connectors out of the way. Pull up on the coilpacks until they and the lower boot come out.
Next get a flashlight and look in all of the holes. If you see any water or oil in the bottom.-Stop. Put the stuff back together and take it to the dealer. You're done.
Use a 5/8" spark plug socket and a 10" extension. Note: tape the extension to the socket so with duct tape so they don't separate when removing..this can be a PITA. Make sure the socket is fully engaged on the plug!!! Break the plug free proceed slowly and even after the first turn go coockwise a turn..this will make removal easier. Like I said turn slowly so you don't strip threads. Take at least 1 to 2 minutes removing the plug. Inspect the thread on the plug and clean it off. Lubricate the old plug * Run it back into the hole and insure it runs in all the way by hand. Remove it.
Check gap of new plug. Should be about .047" +/ .002". Put dielectic jelly around top porcelain ribs. ** Put antisieze on plug thread *. Install plug gasket. Before putting in plug- check the sealing area of the top of the plug hole and if dirty use rag/extension and clean it up or use vacuum. Make rag slightly damp so that it picks up dirt.
Install plug. Make sure you use only the extension and your hand..no wrench. After it tightens by hand. loosen it a couple of turns and redo it (to make sure it stops at the same place. Torque to 10 ft lbs to make sure you are not overtorquing. Then torque to 13 ft lbs. note: max size click type wrench is 50 ft. lbs. Make very sure you see the "click"..its very slight with a 50 ft. ob wrench.
Put dielectic on bottom inside of boot and around the top where it engages into the valve cover housing. ** Install coil packs/boots and insure they bottom . Install the connectors by pushing it on coilpack til it clicks. Install the coilpack bolts just snug. Note you may have had to separate 2 of the bolts that double as coilpack cover.
Install cover you're done. Note.: I was very careful to clean everything up really good and was careful to cover the holes so nothing could get in the cylinders.
* Otional. Some recommend no lubricant.
** Also optional. I just do it.
Didn't want to start a new thread but since I didn't find the info on here I wanted I thought I'd write it up. Reading this ahead of time will save you time doing it believe me.
Remove the 4 capbolts on the coilpack cover. Note that the 2 center bolts hold 2 coil packs underneath. When you remove these two there is a stud threaded at both ends. The whole thing may or may not come out of the block. In any event it doesn't matter. This could happen to the two others as well. Wrench size 10mm.
After removal the coil packs are visible. #2 and #4 coil packs have bolts holding the coilpacks in place-remove them. If the studs for the other 2 don't come out..remove them as well. Bottom line remove all 4 bolts holding coil packs. Next move the coilpacks counterclockwise and clockwise to the extent possible to break bottom of boot lose from the top of plug. This will allow you to pull the coilpack and boot out easier.
Push in the right side of the tab (see below and at the same timd pry off connector with a flat blade screwdriver. Twist it slightly in the space between the connector and the coilpack. This is the most difficult part of the job.
Move the connectors out of the way. Pull up on the coilpacks until they and the lower boot come out.
Next get a flashlight and look in all of the holes. If you see any water or oil in the bottom.-Stop. Put the stuff back together and take it to the dealer. You're done.
Use a 5/8" spark plug socket and a 10" extension. Note: tape the extension to the socket so with duct tape so they don't separate when removing..this can be a PITA. Make sure the socket is fully engaged on the plug!!! Break the plug free proceed slowly and even after the first turn go coockwise a turn..this will make removal easier. Like I said turn slowly so you don't strip threads. Take at least 1 to 2 minutes removing the plug. Inspect the thread on the plug and clean it off. Lubricate the old plug * Run it back into the hole and insure it runs in all the way by hand. Remove it.
Check gap of new plug. Should be about .047" +/ .002". Put dielectic jelly around top porcelain ribs. ** Put antisieze on plug thread *. Install plug gasket. Before putting in plug- check the sealing area of the top of the plug hole and if dirty use rag/extension and clean it up or use vacuum. Make rag slightly damp so that it picks up dirt.
Install plug. Make sure you use only the extension and your hand..no wrench. After it tightens by hand. loosen it a couple of turns and redo it (to make sure it stops at the same place. Torque to 10 ft lbs to make sure you are not overtorquing. Then torque to 13 ft lbs. note: max size click type wrench is 50 ft. lbs. Make very sure you see the "click"..its very slight with a 50 ft. ob wrench.
Put dielectic on bottom inside of boot and around the top where it engages into the valve cover housing. ** Install coil packs/boots and insure they bottom . Install the connectors by pushing it on coilpack til it clicks. Install the coilpack bolts just snug. Note you may have had to separate 2 of the bolts that double as coilpack cover.
Install cover you're done. Note.: I was very careful to clean everything up really good and was careful to cover the holes so nothing could get in the cylinders.
* Otional. Some recommend no lubricant.
** Also optional. I just do it.
Thanks
06-16-2010, 06:07 PM
#49
06-17-2010, 11:45 AM
#50
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thanks for your concern but, i've just never done it before.. i've done many maintenance jobs on my cars... i just wanted to make sure there's no special techniques i should know about...
06-17-2010, 05:36 PM
#51
Nothing special. I outlined what I did and why in an earlier post. I found that to be the easiest and allowed for the least potential for problems. You can decide if you want to do something different. You'll need spark plug sockets and metric sockets (maybe just one, I can't remember if the fasteners were all the same size)(is so, probably 10MM like most). Also a fairly long 3/8" drive extension (I used a 10") and a ratchet of course to remove and replace the spark plugs. I didn't devote as much care as perhaps I should have when tightening the plugs (though it's been 20K miles without a hint of trouble, so I'm guessing I'm OK). There are a couple of posts in this thread that explain a more careful way to do that though. It really is a pretty simple job.
06-17-2010, 05:59 PM
#52
A couple of other things you may want to consider. I would suggest that you install the new plugs dry. There seems to be a little contoversy over this, but I was always led to believe (I actually did this stuff for a living years ago) that unless otherwise stated, all fasteners should be installed and torqued dry. Wet fasteners will not tighten to the proper spec. And there's really no reason (other than it feels good) to lube the plugs before they're installed. That said, if you do decide to use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs (though there also seems to be some question what the torque setting should be), I'd suggest using a torque wrench that has settings in inch pounds. The 13-21 ft. lbs. discussed in this thread is very near the low end of a torque wrench that measures ft lbs. Torque wrenches, like many devices that measure things, work best in the middle of the range (and the 13-21 ft lb range is much closer to the middle range of a torque wrench that measures inch lbs)(for inch pounds, take your ft lb figure and multiply it by 12)
06-22-2010, 01:00 PM
#54
A couple of other things you may want to consider. I would suggest that you install the new plugs dry. There seems to be a little contoversy over this, but I was always led to believe (I actually did this stuff for a living years ago) that unless otherwise stated, all fasteners should be installed and torqued dry. Wet fasteners will not tighten to the proper spec. And there's really no reason (other than it feels good) to lube the plugs before they're installed. That said, if you do decide to use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs (though there also seems to be some question what the torque setting should be), I'd suggest using a torque wrench that has settings in inch pounds. The 13-21 ft. lbs. discussed in this thread is very near the low end of a torque wrench that measures ft lbs. Torque wrenches, like many devices that measure things, work best in the middle of the range (and the 13-21 ft lb range is much closer to the middle range of a torque wrench that measures inch lbs)(for inch pounds, take your ft lb figure and multiply it by 12)
"Trivalent Metal Plating for superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing"
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...m.asp?mode=nml
06-27-2010, 11:07 AM
#55
I just did the spark plug change myself this morning and I thought it went well. This is coming from someone who has pretty much no experience mechanically. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread and this forum! Saved myself some dough for sure.
08-26-2010, 08:35 PM
#57
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I replaced the spark plugs for my 2004 TSX (@ ~64K miles, I know, pretty low for a 2004...) following instructions from this thread. Thanks to all who provided tips.
One thing I did notice was that my original plugs were Denso. I've put in new NGKs to replace those Densos.
One thing I did notice was that my original plugs were Denso. I've put in new NGKs to replace those Densos.
10-31-2010, 06:32 PM
#59
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Just replaced plugs in this vehicle. 129K miles on the clock. The Autolite APP 5224 (double plats) were in extremely good condition after 60K miles. It was a waste pulling them out. I put Autolites back in. I have used Autolites in a number of applications. They are a top shelf plug. 4 bucks each.
Sorry that the pics got deleted. I was using http://www.b15sentra.net/ as a host and the new regime got rid of hosting. I'll try to dig them back up.
Sorry that the pics got deleted. I was using http://www.b15sentra.net/ as a host and the new regime got rid of hosting. I'll try to dig them back up.
11-01-2010, 07:47 AM
#60
I performed my spark changed a couple week ago at 48100 miles. I am aware the manual states 100K but I changed mine nonetheless.
I chose not use the NGK ones, I used Bosch platiniums which I picked up from Walmart for approx $18 for 4. Each pack also included a $3 dollar rebate. So total price = $12 for the sparks after rebate.
IMHO the only difference between the NGK Iridium and the Bosch Platinums are the longetivity, since I plan on changing out my sparks approx every 30K miles I didnt really care to spend that much.
I found that I didnt have to remove the bolt holding the clamp that holds the power steering. Worked my previous cars and learned a long time ago never to overtighten
Indeed hand tighten, then 1/4 or half a turn at the most.
I chose not use the NGK ones, I used Bosch platiniums which I picked up from Walmart for approx $18 for 4. Each pack also included a $3 dollar rebate. So total price = $12 for the sparks after rebate.
IMHO the only difference between the NGK Iridium and the Bosch Platinums are the longetivity, since I plan on changing out my sparks approx every 30K miles I didnt really care to spend that much.
I found that I didnt have to remove the bolt holding the clamp that holds the power steering. Worked my previous cars and learned a long time ago never to overtighten
Indeed hand tighten, then 1/4 or half a turn at the most.
11-01-2010, 02:05 PM
#61
I performed my spark changed a couple week ago at 48100 miles. I am aware the manual states 100K but I changed mine nonetheless.
I chose not use the NGK ones, I used Bosch platiniums which I picked up from Walmart for approx $18 for 4. Each pack also included a $3 dollar rebate. So total price = $12 for the sparks after rebate.
IMHO the only difference between the NGK Iridium and the Bosch Platinums are the longetivity, since I plan on changing out my sparks approx every 30K miles I didnt really care to spend that much.
I found that I didnt have to remove the bolt holding the clamp that holds the power steering. Worked my previous cars and learned a long time ago never to overtighten Indeed hand tighten, then 1/4 or half a turn at the most.
I chose not use the NGK ones, I used Bosch platiniums which I picked up from Walmart for approx $18 for 4. Each pack also included a $3 dollar rebate. So total price = $12 for the sparks after rebate.
IMHO the only difference between the NGK Iridium and the Bosch Platinums are the longetivity, since I plan on changing out my sparks approx every 30K miles I didnt really care to spend that much.
I found that I didnt have to remove the bolt holding the clamp that holds the power steering. Worked my previous cars and learned a long time ago never to overtighten
Indeed hand tighten, then 1/4 or half a turn at the most.To each their own on the replacement plug used, though if the OE NGK's were used, you wouldn't have to replace them every 30K miles (and you'd actually save money). The OE plugs I took out at 110K were still in outstanding condition, and I must admit that I haven't noticed any difference in performance (starting, mileage, running conditions, etc.) with the new plugs. I suppose it might feel good (kind of like changing the oil and filter every 3K miles, even though there's now a mountain of evidence that says that every 7500 miles or more is the new normal), but I learned along time ago that when it comes to high performance stock engines, I'll stick with what the manufacturer recommends.
11-01-2010, 08:00 PM
#62
my manual says 72k for change, i find the ngk last longer then the denso,my first set lasted the 72k no problem 2nd set didnt to be fair v power 98 octaneby shell was taken of market plus car was idiling a lot more in heavy traffic 60 k on that set
11-01-2010, 08:07 PM
#63
sorry 1 fill point on top of the box 17 size bolt, drain on the bottom right side and check bolt up from that have done this so many times now i dont bother with the check bolt just add 1.8/1.9 liters of fully synt gear oil, or what i have found better is 1 liter of castrol smx fully syn gear oil 1 liter atf, changes are so smooth and with 250k on the original box still changing like new, service again 70k for normal highway driving but 30 k for stop go heavy traffic driving
Last edited by nigelboyne; 11-01-2010 at 08:12 PM.
11-01-2010, 08:30 PM
#64
I'm curious what manual you're referring to. The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual clearly states spark plug replacement at 110K miles (it's strictly a mileage interval, there's no time element) and it's become common knowledge in the various spark plug threads that are available in the forum.
11-01-2010, 10:21 PM
#65
Someone stole "My Garage"
I'm curious what manual you're referring to. The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual clearly states spark plug replacement at 110K miles (it's strictly a mileage interval, there's no time element) and it's become common knowledge in the various spark plug threads that are available in the forum.
11-02-2010, 11:08 AM
#66
I'm curious what manual you're referring to. The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual clearly states spark plug replacement at 110K miles (it's strictly a mileage interval, there's no time element) and it's become common knowledge in the various spark plug threads that are available in the forum.
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