Hey guys,

I have a 2006 TSX 6MT which I bought in around September and up until recently it was perfectly normal. Recently I've noticed that whenever I hit the gas while I'm in a higher gear at low RPMs, the car seems to act like I'm pushing the clutch in and the revs start to increase until it balances out with the gas and then drives like normal. I don't really remember when it started doing it because up until just today when I drove home from work and really noticed it, I thought I was accidentally pushing the clutch in while my foot was resting on it. My house isn't too far from work so it could be that it wasn't warmed up enough but it never used to do it before and i continued to drive it around and had the same results after thinking the car was warmed up enough. The only recent mod that I have done to the engine was adding an Injen CAI and it seems weird that this problem started happening after the install. I did the install myself, and I'm pretty sure I did it right, but as far I know it could be the reason for whatever is happening. I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer to get it checked out but I'm worried about my warranty in case the intake did cause the problem. Any ideas?

 

Whenever I turn my car off after a 10 minute or longer drive, my engine has a burning smell...not good!!! Someone please help!

 

Hard to say, but the burning smell might be from the clutch. It sounds like the clutch isn't fully released somehow... I'd definatly get it checked out by your dealer.. the sooner the better... If you're worried about warrenty take the CAI off first and install the standard intake...

 

I think that is a result of your engine being an iVtec (i),...they are a load sensitive form of their predecessor the VTec, mine does the same, because you selected a higher than normal gear it caused that result, the burning is your clutch, the "odd sensation" is just the car labouring to increase the output appropriate fot that gear.

 

n1ke5h... don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal. They make a dead pedal for that. Resting your foot on the clutch pedal could lead you to pushing it in slightly and engaging the clutch. That could be the cause of your burning smell. You could also be smelling some left over coating for the trip across the sea.

I'm still not sure I understand what the original issue was. It almost sounds like you're hitting the VSA controls.

 

Almost certainly a slipping clutch. If you make a habit of leaving your left foot on the clutch pedal it's no wonder it's worn out.

 

Even if I have my foot resting on the dead pedal it still does the same thing and I'm pretty sure whenever I used to have my foot resting on my clutch it was never enough to actually engage it. It feels like the clutch is still engaged until it catches revs and balances out with the gas, even if my foot is completely off of the pedal and resting on the dead pedal. Also, the clutch does not feel as "springy" as it used to be and it is a lot easier to push than it used to be. When I step on the clutch it doesn't seem to feel like there is any resistance until about half the distance to the ground - it was definately not like that before. I think it may be a worn out clutch by I wouldn't know because it's my first manual car, and it only has 4650 miles on it. I just took it to the dealership and he said it may be a worn out clutch especially since the smell but its odd that its happening this early. I took the car back because he said the tech that can look at it wont be available until 2 and I needed a ride back to my campus. I'm taking it back soon but I'm worried about my warranty and stuff. Will my intake have anything to do with this problem?

 

It won't matter if you have an intake on because a worn out clutch isn't covered by warranty anyway.

 

These two statements say it all. Once you push the pedal down to it's freeplay point, you are beginning to release the clutch and causing wear.

Maybe you'll get lucky and Acura will warranty the clutch under goodwill. It's still most certainly abuse and not a defect.

Lesson...don't put your foot on the clutch pedal unless you actually want to release or engage the clutch.

 

I took it back to the dealership and he said (obviously) the clutch isnt covered by warranty, and to have a diagnostic done it would be $95 and then if it is the clutch needing to be replaced, along with the flywheel if needed, the estimated total with parts and labor comes around to $1600 I took the car back from him and talked to a couple of people who have recommended to me that I should take it to a transmission shop like AAMCO and have them do a free diagnostic (which I doubt there exists a free diagnostic for a clutch) - any recommendations for a transmission shop that would do this for fairly cheap around the Dallas/ Ft. Worth metroplex in Texas? Anyway, the dealer also recommended that so I wouldn't have the same problem in the future from aggressive driving or what not, that I should think about aftermarket parts Any recommendations on what the best parts are that I should get (daily driver friendly, but still wouldn't mind some fun)?

 

Oh also, one of my friends who worked on cars before said something about it possibly being a clutch release cylinder or something since it sounds like that clutch isn't being released from being pushed in halfway. Anybody have any ideas?

 

take it to the dealership and let them diagnos it. if it's a bad cylinder or misalignment thent hey should cover it under warranty. if it's just a bad worn clutch, then they won't cover it. clutches are like brakes, they are wear and tear items.

sorry you had to learn this the hard way.

edit:

the clutch has a sand paper like surface. if you push the clutch pedal just slightly it will be close enough to grab the fly wheel, but seperated enough to wear.

talk to the dealership and see if they will replace the clutch/flywheel if the diagnosis determines that something caused the premature wear.

 

Make sure that the repair is not just a clutch face/flywheel replacement. The problem will just resurface. They have to find the cause of the slipping clutch. The clutch pedal should have some freeplay, so even if you rest your foot on the clutch, it does not deliver enough pressure to move the clutch plate.

 

One far-fetched possibility: the throttle plate staying open?

Occasionally, the K&N filter has been notorious for letting in too much debris and having the throttle plate stick open. If this is the case, be prepared for warranty NOT to pick up the tab as the dealer will blame it on your CAI.

 

well...here's an update:

I was driving my car back home from campus on friday before work and the clutch progressively got worse - imagine keeping your clutch pushed in almost all the way to the point where you can barely accelerate and stepping on the gas at the same time and trying to drive on the highway like that, all the while trying not to cry because the burning smell from the clutch was depressing you...until finally the clutch completely gave out. The springyness of the clutch felt normal again and I could feel resistance all the way down when I stepped on the pedal, but I couldnt accelerate at all. I gradually slowed down as I moved to the right lane and exited off of George Bush turnpike until I completey stopped and started rolling backwards - even with the clutch out and the car in gear it felt like it was in neutral. There was no shoulder on the service road so I had to push the car backwards with my left leg and holding the door slightly open until i got to a small shoulder space the size of two car lengths and parked it. Long story shorter, I was lucky the dealership I went to the day before was near where I broke down and I got Acura Total Luxury Care roadside to tow the car there. The guy I talked to this time seemed alright and said that he had never heard of a car not doing anything while in gear with the clutch completely out - normally it would stall or not go into gear at all. He gave me the I can't tell you for sure the warranty is going to cover it but it seemed pretty fishy especially for a pretty much brand new car for this to happen. My dad got an RDX loaner (very nice but turbo lag sure does suck) and was told I'd get a call back the next day. I get the call the next morning and the guy tells me they think its the clutch and it will need to be replaced and gave the the figures of the clutch and flywheel if need be replaced (around $1,400), and told me to tear it down now to give an official diagnostic will be like 380 for 4 hours of labor. He said if they find something wrong Acura will cover it with the warranty but if not I will have to pay, and had me give the go ahead for them to start the tear down. So, now I'm praying they find something wrong and then it would be covered and I wouldn't have to dish out about $1600. If I do have to pay though, I will probably go the aftermarket route most likely with an Exedy Stage 1 kit, unless I hear any recommendations of something closer to stock, if not stock itself from the dealer or acuraoemparts.com. But I hope there won't be a need for that...

 

They would have to tear it down for a clutch replacement anyway, so why are they charging you an extra $200 over the $1400 if they are sure about the clutch replacement!?

 

sorry I didn't make it clear earlier, but the approx. $1400 is going to include the tear down. He said that they were going to tear it down and then look at the problem and go from there. The clutch needs to be replaced regardless but I need to have them find out what caused it - I'm pretty sure I was not driving it so badly that the clutch would give out in a brand new car, but we'll see

 

If I read your OP correctly, you rest your foot on the clutch pedal when you are not using it (riding the clutch). This is a sure-fire way to rapidly accelerate clutch wear, and it's a really bad habit to get into, as you just learned.

Sorry to hear about your woes. That's kind of an expensive lesson.

 

Well here's where I stand right now: the warranty isn't covering anything. Should I call Acura and investigate a little more before I have the work done to the car? Sucks I had to learn the hard way

On the lighter side of things, I got a pretty good deal after calling ebay seller gripforce-clutches (Speed Solution International) on an Exedy Organic Stage 1 clutch kit and Exedy Racing Flywheel (Exedy part numbers 08806 and HF02) at $688 total for next morning shipping (tomorrow 11/21) to Irving, TX. Not too bad considering the dealer quoted around the same just for the Acura OEM parts. I talked to the dealer earlier and he said it would be okay for me to provide parts, they would just charge the normal $95/hr labor charge for it, and it's already apart and sitting in their bay right now (that's why I had to overnight it) so all they need to do it pop the sucker in and the car will be ready Wednesday. I did drive a little to aggressively before (still don't believe enough to actually heat the clutch up so much that it "blued" the flywheel and melted to it or whatever they said happened, but I'll look at it tomorrow when I take my clutch kit to them), but I've learned my lesson and for sure this will never happen again.

 

Unless you have working experience with those aftermarket clutch/flywheel components off ebay, it might be better to just stick with OEM parts knowing they will fit and work fine. You can get OEM parts online at much lower prices and still can get them overnight to you.

 

Once the clutch begins to slip from wear, it creates a huge amount of heat. If you drove the car until it would no longer move it's no wonder the flywheel is blue (probably badly heat-checked as well).

I doubt calling Acura will further your cause. Likely just delay getting your car back because it will usually have to sit there for the Acura District Service Manager to inspect it on his next visit to your dealer. That and they will no-way install your aftermarket clutch if Acura is footing the bill.

Have to agree I'd stick with the stock clutch. If a damper spring fails in your aftermarket clutch disc (or any other issue for that matter), it's gotta come all back apart on your dime. Trans/clutch replacements on these cars are no quick and easy task. The front subframe/suspension has to come out completely (on a special holding fixture to support it) before you can even think of getting to the trans.

 

agree with JTso.. get the OEM stuff and change your driving habit

 

Too late now for that, I ordered the parts yesterday morning. As for the issue of it fitting, why wouldn't it? It's not a knock-off of Exedy products, it is Exedy and from what I understand they make setups for the TSX and the one I ordered is the right one that fits the TSX (also the RSX). I am definately going to change my driving habits, though, and I probably should have put more thought into warranty for the clutch, but then again I figure if it happens again, I should deserve to have to dish out the extra money to get it fixed again for sucking at driving . As far as warranty on the rest of the vehicle is concerned, I talked to the service department and they said the usual - as long as the part is not proven to be the cause of the problem, the rest of the powertrain is still covered.

 

With Exedy clutch, the only issue with fitment is that it doesn't match the Acura flywheel. If you got the Exedy flywheel, then you'll be alright. Let us know how it drives with the lightweight flywheel compared to stock.

 

I have the same year model and trans. I noticed a similair situtation when I tried to take off from a light and race someone. I dont know what it is but I havent messed around to get it to do it again. I want to try turning off VSA, maybe the traction control is kicking in? Not sure though hit me up if you figure it out.

 

All I have to say is that I'm glad im not 18 anymore.

My entire clutch assembly was recently replaced under warranty. However, my clutch was not slipping, it was just making a loud noise when engaging.

While I'm guessing it's probably your driving habits (resting your foot on the clutch pedal is a big no-no), you should still get Acura Customer Serivce involved. You dont have much to loose at this point. You need a 2nd opinion and you should be talking directly to the District Service Manager because he makes the call of doing a repair under warranty...

And I gotta say, either some dealers take advantage of kids or they just suck in general. It was hardly even a question when my dealer did the work. No money ever changed hands, even to just check it out...

 

Yep being a kid sucks...oh well.

I got my car back today and couldn't stop grinning the ride back hope. The clutch will probably take some time to get used, but it's not at all that much different from stock. The revs pick up so much faster with the flywheel, and the shifting is smoother than ever. I've learned my lesson by burning the clutch out due to terrible driving habits though and hopefully nothing like this will ever happen again. Putting in the Exedy kit was a bonus from the lesson learned though...the service consultant I was dealing with and the technician that was working on it both even complimented on how nice the car ran now. Going the aftermarket route costed me about $40 more than if they had provided OEM parts themselves. Hopefully the clutch won't give out again for the rest of the car's life though because I spent all of the money I wanted to save up for coilovers and other mods right there - at least it went into another mod though.

To sum it all up-

Towing to dealership: covered by Acura Roadside
Exedy Organic Clutch kit and Racing Flywheel overnight shipped: $689
Labor cost at David McDavid Acura in Plano, TX: <$800

 

now that you have the new clutch and flywheel, I hope you properly break them in. you can't just put in a new clutch and start beating on it. it needs about 500 miles of easy city driving to mate properly to the flywheel.

 

Yea that's what I thought so I haven't pushed the car yet. I'm still too afraid that whatever happened before might happen again, but I should be okay However, you can still tell the difference even with normal driving and boy is it nice

 

Wow, killing a clutch in under 5k miles? That must be a record of some sort.

Anyway, good thing you got it resolved.