Anyone had this happen, while driving along the doors just periodically lock? Just started yesterday, kinda weird.

 

Any chance it's an 04?

 

Early '05. Why?

 

were you able to replicate the problem?

sure it's not an elbow lol?

 

The 04 models seem to suffer from a growing (naturally, as they age) list of problems (of all sizes and types), so I was just curious. Judging by some of the threads on this forum, they seem to suffer from a major case of the first year blues. (And to all you 04 owners out there with trouble free (relatively) cars, please don't take it as a burn, just an observation).

 

Not yet deliberately. It replicates on its own however.

 

I have an 04 with no problems yet.

 

No rhyme or reason? E.g. always at highway speed, or only when I'm driving alone (the usual ghost sighting phenomenon), only on weekdays....

 

Yes, random as in random.

 

What does this have anything to do with the original question? Unless you have a TSB that relates to the 04, it shouldn't matter. It's like you just said it to bash the people who own 04's (like they were stupid to buy something that would have the first year blue's).

Your door lock actuator may be dying. Take it to the dealer if you still are under warranty.

 

Just a WAG - it happens at the same location, right? If not, please provide more information. Maybe some outside RF source is interfering with the key fob receiver.

 

Figures, I passed the 50k mark about two weeks ago. Could be the actuator, as has been described in other threads, I've noticed that the driver's door is slower to unlock than the rest, but it doesn't stick or not work. And it's all doors that lock, haven't taken a look at the schematic - it just started two days ago - but if the all-doors-lock circuit can be triggered at the actuator it might be worth further investigation.

No, no pattern I've been able to discern. Time of day, geographic location, in motion, at rest, nothing reproducible so far.

 

It wasn't an unreasonable question. And he explained his question later. Simmer, dude.

I don't think the key fob locking button will work when the key is in the ignition. (I tried this, but don't ask me why.)

All doors are locked one of three ways, the master lock switches (driver and front passenger doors), the driver's door lock pin/post, and the keyless entry remote. I'm suspecting a circuit related to one of the first two. You might try just wiggling the switch or the post and see if they're loose, or if just wiggling will do it. Could be that a bump or vibration while driving down certain roads is triggering it.

(Don't laugh, years ago, my avionics shop spent several days trying to figure out why an HH65 helo's mission computer would reject a LORAN input in flight, but everything checked out on the ground, and the problem persisted even after replacing every box/unit we could. Finally, on a hunch I checked wiring. Sure enough, this was a relatively new airframe, and an antenna BNC connector was missing a bushing, so the conductor was shorting to the shielding during flight (with major vibrations). On the ground, everything worked fine. We partied the night we fixed that puzzle.)

 

I've had good luck with Acura (and Honda for that matter)(yes, I know they're the same) covering warranty items after the expiration of the original warranty. It would appear that the dealer has allot of discretion concerning what they can cover under "good will" post warranty (this is one of the bigger reasons I use the dealer for regularly scheduled maintenance although I'm fully capable of doing most of it myself). If your warranty has expired, and when (or if) you discover a problem that should be covered, your servicing dealer may be able to cover it anyway. If they don't, contact Acura and express your displeasure and disappointment at having to pay for something that should have lasted longer than it did. This may work for repairs made shortly after expiration (within reason; my guess is a 6 year old car with a gazillion miles need not apply). It never hurts to ask.

 

Oh, and a fourth way.... I forgot The driver's door keyhole. But I don't think that's the specific problem here.

 

Okay, I'll quote you on that...I'll ask the OP of each thread if they own an 04. I guess I'll start compiling a database to prove most of the problems here are from 04's.

He asked "any chance it's an 04?" which implies that 04's have that problem. His successive threads still don't help the OP by providing more information related to the problem.

 

The door lock actuator is the motor that locks/unlock the door. You say your driver's door locks slower than the other doors. Tell me, if your driver's door is unlocked, and you push the stick down to lock the driver's door...do all of the other doors lock? If so, then the driver's door lock actuator sends signals to the other doors...if it's faulty, it might be sending signals to the other doors to lock themselves. There might be a short in the actuator's relay.

Now, if your driver's door lock doesn't affect the other doors, then disregard my idea. (I never lock/unlock my doors manually, so I don't know.) I assume though, that if I were to lock the driver's door with my key, it'd cause the other doors to lock as well....

 

I just don't see Simba's curiosity as a response that merits sniping at him like that. Maybe you felt I was shushing you, too. Nolo contendere.
Please DO NOT make fun of me personally in your sigline. That would the the height of immaturity.

 

Could someone please confirm whether or not locking the driver's door with the key will lock all doors. I can unlock the driver's door with the key on one turn and then unlock all doors with a second turn. However, I can only lock the driver's door with the key, two turns does nothing.

 

I believe that locking with the key in the driver's door locks all doors. Check your manual, "Door Locks," around page 128 or 129: "All doors can be locked from the outside by using the key in the driver's door." Unlocking with the key, the first twist unlocks the driver's door, second twist within a few secs opens the rest. This is changed with the "door lock mode" (p. 111).

Another thing you can try is the power window function ("Opening/Closing the windows with the key," around page 149). With the car locked, turn the key once to unlock. Turn the key a second time and hold, and all doors unlock, AND all four windows start down. They continue down as long as you hold the key in the turned position. NOW ... turn the key the other way to lock. Turning and holding the key a second time, all the windows will close (p. 129).

If you're not seeing these behaviors, DEFINITELY something screwy. Bear in mind that I've got a 2006, not 2005, and I've only looked in the 2006 and 2007 manuals.

Hope this helps....

 

I tried it. All doors lock on the first turn. The second turn is only needed if you want to close the windows.

This makes sense...if the driver wants to lock his door, he probably is about to leave his vehicle in a parking lot or wherever. Thus, the car should lock all the doors along with the driver's door. It would be silly if only the driver's door locked, and the car left the other doors unlocked.

 

I already know something is screwy, hence the thread.


Thanks for the manual ref. and thanks SoCaliTrojan for trying it out. The behavior seemed wrong but I don't recall ever (un)locking the door with the key so I wasn't really sure. And just because it seems wrong don't make it so, like the inner door latches not unlocking the door. Seems wrong to me, two years now and still haven't gotten used to it.

 

Yeah, no shinola. I was referring to the specific behaviors I was describing to you. If you take it in for service, having documented any and all discrepancies in these functions (the "all doors lock" and "all windows down"/"all windows up" behaviors) will probably ensure you get it fixed completely, first time.
Check the "Easter eggs" thread, there are a lot of neat features about the car that an owner wouldn't know without either reading the manual (as I did when I got the car, greedily soaking up neat things I could doink around with), or stumbling over them. Even after reading the manual, there are things I didn't know that other members here have clued me into.

 

Pulled out the service manual on Saturday to isolate the bad component. Went thru the diagnostic checks with my multimeter and oddly everything worked out. Somewhat disappointing actually, as something is obviously wrong, but all doors locked with the key or lock knob - which wasn't working two weeks ago. Since Saturday the car hasn't locked on it's own, very strange. Glad it's a non-issue, presently, but skeptical it will last.

 

Sometimes problems disappear after troubleshooting, because you've jiggered things about a bit. Used to see it on avionics frequently, the very act of removing and reinserting black boxes cleaned contacts and chased the gremlins away.

 

On a related note, the last week or so I've noticed that once I remote unlock my car, I have much less time to get the door open before it re-locks itself. We're talking under five seconds at this point. I know that can't be right. Any idea what's screwy there? I'm getting a heated seat backlight bulb changed some time in the next week or so and I plan to ask my dealership to take a look then, but I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this.

 

Check your relock interval in MID (not sure what year you have). It's adjustable. Maybe you're using a different remote key fob? If they're liniked, you could be using "Driver 2" where before you've been using "Driver 1."

 

I'm pretty sure the problem is with the actuator. My dad had a similar problem on a Jeep Grand Cherokee some years back. The problem is that when you unlock the doors in a manner that uses the actuator (fob, "master lock" switch on either the driver or passenger side) the lock isn't pushed up all the way. I haven't seen the TSX actuator but the Jeep used some sort of electro pneumatic solenoid. There was a rubber diaphragm involved and the thing is, this diaphragm just naturally wanted to be either all the way in or all the way out. It didn't like being in the middle. In that case, there was an air leak in the pneumatic part of the actuator that would cause the diaphragm not to move the full travel leaving it in the middle. Sometimes it would pop back in locking the doors, and other times it pop out, unlocking them.

I currently have a faulty actuator in my front passenger side door and what I'm getting is the lock not popping all the way up or down when I use the fob. It hangs in the middle. If the same thing was happening on the drivers side, it's probably hovering right around the point where the switch engages to lock or unlock the rest of the doors when you pull up or push down on the peg.

Solution: tell the dealer you need a new actuator put in. You may be able to get them to do this for free despite your mileage. I'm currently scheduled to have mine fixed on Monday. I just called and told them "I need a new actuator" and they said ok. I didn't even bother explaining why I thought that. I assume they've seen quite a few of these at this point and just figured I was probably right.

 

I have a 2004, so no MID. No memory seats, either.

 

Yeah, that's what sucks. Intermittent problems are the worst. Although it's been a week now and no issue, so I can't really complain.

 

Could be, I don't know. I never had a problem with the lock sticking, always up and down definitively (front appears slower than the rears though), and it would re-lock repeatedly. Hasn't done it for a week now, so I'll have to wait until it occurs again or something completely dies.