Door Lock Problem (Sticking)
#283
Safety Car
Add me to the list; my rear door is starting to do this. 2005 TL, 58K miles.
Debating on taking it to the dealer to fix it, will probably be about 250 - 300 dollars for labor on a $25 part. Not worth it in my opinion. If it turns out its around $100, then yeah I'd probably get it fixed.
This marks the 2nd issue I've had with this car that is not worth the cost to fix. My cruise control switch broke last year, and while it still works fine, you have to keep it held down because the catching mechanism broke. Dealer wants $230 to fix it, and I told them no. Now I just stick something in the opening to keep it held down when I'm traveling on the highway.
Last month my power steering rack needed replacing (@57000K miles) and this would have been a $1300 job since it was out of warranty, but the service adviser hooked me up big time and was able to get the district manager to do a goodwill repair free of charge.
I would have liked to keep this car for the long run, but now that its out of warranty there are just too many nagging issues and I'm strongly considering getting rid of it before it needs another $1300 repair.
UPDATE: Just called the dealer and they quoted me the price of $308 parts+labor. No thanks, I won't get it fixed then. What a rip off.
Debating on taking it to the dealer to fix it, will probably be about 250 - 300 dollars for labor on a $25 part. Not worth it in my opinion. If it turns out its around $100, then yeah I'd probably get it fixed.
This marks the 2nd issue I've had with this car that is not worth the cost to fix. My cruise control switch broke last year, and while it still works fine, you have to keep it held down because the catching mechanism broke. Dealer wants $230 to fix it, and I told them no. Now I just stick something in the opening to keep it held down when I'm traveling on the highway.
Last month my power steering rack needed replacing (@57000K miles) and this would have been a $1300 job since it was out of warranty, but the service adviser hooked me up big time and was able to get the district manager to do a goodwill repair free of charge.
I would have liked to keep this car for the long run, but now that its out of warranty there are just too many nagging issues and I'm strongly considering getting rid of it before it needs another $1300 repair.
UPDATE: Just called the dealer and they quoted me the price of $308 parts+labor. No thanks, I won't get it fixed then. What a rip off.
Last edited by WdnUlik2no; 04-14-2011 at 03:32 PM.
#284
Dang I'm having the same problem with my passenger door. I went to a shop and it says that the "passenger door-door lock mechanism" is what needs to be replaced. Not sure if this is the same as an actuator..??? but I have no warranty on mine anymore because it's an 04 tsx and 80k miles on it already.
#285
7th Gear
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York
Age: 48
Posts: 7
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actuator
Finally went to the stealership and got the actuator replaced... $225 plus tax... He said he doesn't get too many repairs for this, more for TL's.... I guess a lot of people fix it themselves!
#289
Advanced
#292
Passenger side automatic door lock not working
I have the same issue with my 2005 TSX, with the actuator not working, is there any instructions on how to replace it yourself? Thanks.
#294
#295
***2004 tsx with same door lock problem***
I feel so ripped off! 4 years ago, I chose to buy an Acura for its reliability and performance. Recently, I have spent about 2000$ and based on all these posts, it looks like I can tack on another $300+ to that amount because my driver side door is also dysfunctional because of this default actuator. Nice job....
This spring I was forced to have the computer changed due to water and salt infiltration into the computer which shorted it out (why would you manufacture and sell a vehicle which is sensitive to water and salt in a country where ice,water and salt prevail)The problem would cause the car to JUST STOP in the middle of the highway. Sometimes it was possible to restart other times it would remain idle for days. I finally left the vehicle and had it towed to Acura telling them to keep it until they could identify the problem because I had taken the vehicle in several times for this problem, always with the same result.. No one could detect the anomalie. Acura kept the vehicle until the anomalie could be reproduced then informed me of the leak into the computer compartment. They informed me that unfortunately my warranty having expired, was not covered,. However; they would encase thew NEW computer component in plastic in order to prevent a recurrence.
Now...WHY no recall on this? considering the danger involved in a car stopping without warning on a highway where trucks are travelling at 120k an hour?
and now this....another Acura poorly manufactured Acura component ,the fact that so many incidents AFTER warranty has expired means that this issue should definately be considered as a recall.
Will definately send this in to the BBB.
This spring I was forced to have the computer changed due to water and salt infiltration into the computer which shorted it out (why would you manufacture and sell a vehicle which is sensitive to water and salt in a country where ice,water and salt prevail)The problem would cause the car to JUST STOP in the middle of the highway. Sometimes it was possible to restart other times it would remain idle for days. I finally left the vehicle and had it towed to Acura telling them to keep it until they could identify the problem because I had taken the vehicle in several times for this problem, always with the same result.. No one could detect the anomalie. Acura kept the vehicle until the anomalie could be reproduced then informed me of the leak into the computer compartment. They informed me that unfortunately my warranty having expired, was not covered,. However; they would encase thew NEW computer component in plastic in order to prevent a recurrence.
Now...WHY no recall on this? considering the danger involved in a car stopping without warning on a highway where trucks are travelling at 120k an hour?
and now this....another Acura poorly manufactured Acura component ,the fact that so many incidents AFTER warranty has expired means that this issue should definately be considered as a recall.
Will definately send this in to the BBB.
#296
Safety Car
I feel so ripped off! 4 years ago, I chose to buy an Acura for its reliability and performance. Recently, I have spent about 2000$ and based on all these posts, it looks like I can tack on another $300+ to that amount because my driver side door is also dysfunctional because of this default actuator. Nice job....
This spring I was forced to have the computer changed due to water and salt infiltration into the computer which shorted it out (why would you manufacture and sell a vehicle which is sensitive to water and salt in a country where ice,water and salt prevail)The problem would cause the car to JUST STOP in the middle of the highway. Sometimes it was possible to restart other times it would remain idle for days. I finally left the vehicle and had it towed to Acura telling them to keep it until they could identify the problem because I had taken the vehicle in several times for this problem, always with the same result.. No one could detect the anomalie. Acura kept the vehicle until the anomalie could be reproduced then informed me of the leak into the computer compartment. They informed me that unfortunately my warranty having expired, was not covered,. However; they would encase thew NEW computer component in plastic in order to prevent a recurrence.
Now...WHY no recall on this? considering the danger involved in a car stopping without warning on a highway where trucks are travelling at 120k an hour?
and now this....another Acura poorly manufactured Acura component ,the fact that so many incidents AFTER warranty has expired means that this issue should definately be considered as a recall.
Will definately send this in to the BBB.
This spring I was forced to have the computer changed due to water and salt infiltration into the computer which shorted it out (why would you manufacture and sell a vehicle which is sensitive to water and salt in a country where ice,water and salt prevail)The problem would cause the car to JUST STOP in the middle of the highway. Sometimes it was possible to restart other times it would remain idle for days. I finally left the vehicle and had it towed to Acura telling them to keep it until they could identify the problem because I had taken the vehicle in several times for this problem, always with the same result.. No one could detect the anomalie. Acura kept the vehicle until the anomalie could be reproduced then informed me of the leak into the computer compartment. They informed me that unfortunately my warranty having expired, was not covered,. However; they would encase thew NEW computer component in plastic in order to prevent a recurrence.
Now...WHY no recall on this? considering the danger involved in a car stopping without warning on a highway where trucks are travelling at 120k an hour?
and now this....another Acura poorly manufactured Acura component ,the fact that so many incidents AFTER warranty has expired means that this issue should definately be considered as a recall.
Will definately send this in to the BBB.
1. Axle needed replacement (replaced under warranty), this had to be done twice on two different occasions.
2. Acura batteries are crap, had two die on me very prematurely; didn't even make it two years, put in a duralast, a couple of years ago, no problems since.
3. 3rd gear continuously would pop out after shifting, it took multiple trips to the dealer for them to replace it under the TSB
4. Cruise control button on steering wheel no longer catches so cruise control won't stay on unless I stick something in between it to keep it on. Acura wants $225+ to fix. I would do it myself but I'm don't want to mess around with the air bag.
5. Side marker light on driver's side just stopped working, sometimes it comes back on, other times it doesn't at all. Acura wants $80+ labor to fix. Something I could do on my own, but haven't bothered to fix it it.
6. So called leather seats are crap. They are not supposed to be shiny like mine it and front seats are starting to show cracks.
7. The center retractable cover over the cup holders split in 5 different places.
8. Needed a new steering rack; a $1300 repair but luckily the lady at the service center got the General Manger to give me a goodwill repair and replaced it for free.
9. Two lights on the dash next to the navi that indicate temperature up and down occasionally go out for no reason, and I have to hit the dash to get them to come back on.
10. Popping clutch pedal dealer finally fixed.
12. The speakers in the back have an annoying rattle anytime I have the volume up past 9. Hopefully its just some screws or something I have to tighten.
11. In general, a lot of rattles while driving.
I'm not currently in the market for a new car as this one is paid off. But my original plan to keep my TL for well over 100,000 miles is no longer the case. I am done with Acura once I get rid of this one. And while its a nice looking car and fun to drive, Acura has shown quality is not important to them. There is no way in hell I would drop 35 - 45 grand on another car that have so many quality control issues.
#298
This site is helpful - http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
They're also a forum sponsor.
They're also a forum sponsor.
The following users liked this post:
2jiggy4u (07-12-2012)
#299
Instructor
This site is helpful - http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
They're also a forum sponsor.
They're also a forum sponsor.
Dealer quoted me $50 for the part $221 for labor... per door
My windows went out as well, dunno if its the motor/track/regulator
#300
Advanced
rounded screw
Hey guys, I couldn't get off those 2 of the 3 screws on the side of the door and brought it to a shop. They managed to round off both of them and sent me on my way cause they didn't have replacement screws for me. What can I do to replace those? Should I drill them out and buy new screws? I should be able to extract the screw once I drill off the head right?
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