Door Lock Problem (Sticking)
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: VA
This happened to me as well. I bought the actuator from the dealer myself since I am out of warranty and will attempt to install it as soon as I figure out how to safely remove the door panel.
/Will probably take some work but much better than the $100 per hour dealerships charge.
//This seems to be happening to many people, I'd like to fill out a poll, if available.
/Will probably take some work but much better than the $100 per hour dealerships charge.
//This seems to be happening to many people, I'd like to fill out a poll, if available.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 142
Likes: 5
From: MD
Originally Posted by BW61885
This happened to me as well. I bought the actuator from the dealer myself since I am out of warranty and will attempt to install it as soon as I figure out how to safely remove the door panel.
/Will probably take some work but much better than the $100 per hour dealerships charge.
//This seems to be happening to many people, I'd like to fill out a poll, if available.
/Will probably take some work but much better than the $100 per hour dealerships charge.
//This seems to be happening to many people, I'd like to fill out a poll, if available.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: VA
Actuator replacement instructions
Last weekend I replaced the actuator successfully and everything is working perfectly. I'll attempt to give instructions as best I can for the actuator replacement. I'd be happy to try and answer any questions since I've gotten so much great help from the acurazine community over the years. I must say only to do this if your warranty has expired such as mine and it isn't worth the 1 or 2 hour labor charge from Acura or a shop. I would estimate the job to take about 2-4 hours depending on your familiarity and technical expertise, mine took over 5 because I first attempted it cold without help and went slow. I wouldn't have been able to do it all myself without the help of an acquaintance who was recently a technician at Acura and gave me a step by step explanation over the phone. Once you understand well how it works, it can be done relatively easily. Acura sells a service manual for about $100 which may be useful for this and other tasks, but the cost may negate the benefits. I only had my cell phone camera (which is only 1.3megapixels) to take a couple pictures of the assembly, which I will post- sorry I don't have more available. Here is my version of detailed instructions of how I replaced the driver's side door actuator:
My Problem: Drivers side door lock does not function electronically. It could only be operated by physically moving the lock, which not only affected the locking synchronization of all three other doors but rendered my remote practically useless.
Diagnosis: I diagnosed the door actuator as the problem based on reading the several forums on this problem and noting those that had the same problem were able to correct it by replacing the device. I also spoke with several service technicians who advised me that this was a most likely scenario.
Instructions:
The driver's side door lock actuator is available at the Acura Parts Department, which should cost about $30. I was informed that for some reason, the rear door actuators are more expensive, costing over $100.
It is necessary to have a working knowledge of how to take the door panel off. Since it was my first time, I used the instructions from this website, accessed from an Acurazine A/V thread, which refers to speaker installation:
Door Panel Removal
Important things that site doesn't mention is to be careful of the light on the bottom of the door when removing the panel at the last step. I completely forgot about the light and pulled my wires out of the light, consequently touching together and blowing the 10V fuse which regulates interior lighting and the radio. Both of these problems were fixed easily using an extra fuse acura puts under the hood- but it's still not worth the trouble. Avoid this by removing the lightbulb assembly from the door panel first- it should shap out easily- this should leave a dangling lightbulb near the bottom of the door. ** ALSO leave your window rolled up, contrary to the website instructions, because you will need to later remove the metal piece that holds the window once inside the door panel in order to remove the actuator. This can't be done or at least you risk breaking the window if it's down.
Once the door panel is off, remove as much of the white or black (depending) plastic guard which is rubber cemented around the door frame as you are comfortable with from the LEFT side of the door frame. This rubber cement stuff or whatever is a pain if you get it on your fingers because it is sticky and it gums up your ability to carry out this task. This may be inevitable but gloves could help initially.
You should now see two big holes in the metal door frame on the left side. These are holes you will be using to gain access to the actuator. The actuator is attached a larger white assembly which is what allows your door frame to physically interlock to the main frame of the car. The actuator functions to turn the electric signals from the car into action of the door lock. It is located on the left-most side of the door frame, about mid level on the door.
Here is what you should see as the actuator is being removed, later in the process:
[IMG]01-28-07_1518.jpg[/IMG]
Begin by removing the screw at the top left of the door which holds the push-button lock to the door. Removal of this is necessary to have enough cable slack to pull out the assembly. Next, on the left adjacent side of the door frame - the part that physically grabs the frame of the car: use a powerful screwdriver to unscrew 3 silver metal screws, grouped 2 on top in a row, 1 below. These screws are what hold the actuator and assembly to the door frame. Next, looking at the main face of the door frame, there are white and black "alligator clips" holding the assembly to the door frame which can be pushed out using fingers or two flat heads- push in laterally towards the center, then once then enough, push through the hole. There is also one screw that must be removed. This should have removed a black plastic guard from the white actuator assembly.
VERY carefully now, remove another screw on the door frame which attaches to a long metal frame that after inspection and feeling, the rubber-felt indicates that it holds the window when it's rolled down. I say to do this carefully because if it is bent or secured wrong could ruin your window or motor. This shouldn't be a problem as it shouldnt break and is easy push out of the way, but care must be taken. Even a small adjustment to the positioning at the top or bottom end could have a profound impact on the thin glass.
Now the actuator and assembly should be relatively loose, you should notice that it's connected to 2 metal rods at the top of the assembly. The thinner rod on the far left is what connects to the key lock on the outside, while the thicker one on the inside operates the function of the outside handle. Similar to removal of the cable connecting the inside door handle to the door panel, these rods are attached to clips which are easily removed with your hand or a screwdriver. The rods are "S-shaped" at the ends and after removing the clips. My friend who was a technician assured me that these clips and rods can be taken out at the end the attaches to the actuator or the ends which attach to the outside door lock and handle at the top of the door, whichever your most comfortable with. If you are going to remove the rods from the top end, which I did, note the presence of a small hole near the top left of the door which is covered in plastic. The plastic can be punched out with a finger, which greatly aids in viewing or removing the clips/rods. Either way, just remove one end of the rod.
Here is a close-up of the actuator and assembly. The actuator is small part sticking out on the bottom, with the green circle on it:
[IMG]01-28-07_1519.jpg[/IMG]
The white actuator and assembly should be able to slide out now from the inside of the door frame. Note the presence of the smaller actuator to the larger assembly, this is only where you will need to work. Carefully remove the two wire plugs that plug into the actuator. To remove the actuator from the assembly, two small phillips head screws must be removed which may be difficult to find at first, one is sort of hidden. After careful inspection, this should become apparent. One screw opens the assembly to access and view the actuator while the other screw removes the actuator from the assembly. The replacement is relatively easy and should also be fairly intuitive.
Putting the whole assembly back together was unfortunately more difficult than taking it apart, but it can be done by reversing the process through memory. I used a small flashlight to aid putting the rods back together which can be ergonomically difficult. A problem I encountered was that I wasn't able or frankly did not want to put the black plastic guard or whatever that goes around the white actuator and assembly back on. After analyzing the functionality of all the parts, I did not see a need for it, which may prove foolish because surely it must have some purpose, perhaps organizational or protective- but knowing that everything would function fine without it, I didn't attach it because of lack of time available. I saved the part and if anything indicates its necessary or I end up with more time, I'll put it back on.
I hope these instructions have been helpful to those considering the replacement themselves. I'm certainly glad I did it considering I may have saved over $200 and I can use my remote and power locks again. I hope this hasn't been too long of a post, I wanted to be as clear as possible since I wasn't able to take pictures of the entire process. Feel free to reply or PM me with any questions. Good luck!
My Problem: Drivers side door lock does not function electronically. It could only be operated by physically moving the lock, which not only affected the locking synchronization of all three other doors but rendered my remote practically useless.
Diagnosis: I diagnosed the door actuator as the problem based on reading the several forums on this problem and noting those that had the same problem were able to correct it by replacing the device. I also spoke with several service technicians who advised me that this was a most likely scenario.
Instructions:
The driver's side door lock actuator is available at the Acura Parts Department, which should cost about $30. I was informed that for some reason, the rear door actuators are more expensive, costing over $100.
It is necessary to have a working knowledge of how to take the door panel off. Since it was my first time, I used the instructions from this website, accessed from an Acurazine A/V thread, which refers to speaker installation:
Door Panel Removal
Important things that site doesn't mention is to be careful of the light on the bottom of the door when removing the panel at the last step. I completely forgot about the light and pulled my wires out of the light, consequently touching together and blowing the 10V fuse which regulates interior lighting and the radio. Both of these problems were fixed easily using an extra fuse acura puts under the hood- but it's still not worth the trouble. Avoid this by removing the lightbulb assembly from the door panel first- it should shap out easily- this should leave a dangling lightbulb near the bottom of the door. ** ALSO leave your window rolled up, contrary to the website instructions, because you will need to later remove the metal piece that holds the window once inside the door panel in order to remove the actuator. This can't be done or at least you risk breaking the window if it's down.
Once the door panel is off, remove as much of the white or black (depending) plastic guard which is rubber cemented around the door frame as you are comfortable with from the LEFT side of the door frame. This rubber cement stuff or whatever is a pain if you get it on your fingers because it is sticky and it gums up your ability to carry out this task. This may be inevitable but gloves could help initially.
You should now see two big holes in the metal door frame on the left side. These are holes you will be using to gain access to the actuator. The actuator is attached a larger white assembly which is what allows your door frame to physically interlock to the main frame of the car. The actuator functions to turn the electric signals from the car into action of the door lock. It is located on the left-most side of the door frame, about mid level on the door.
Here is what you should see as the actuator is being removed, later in the process:
[IMG]01-28-07_1518.jpg[/IMG]
Begin by removing the screw at the top left of the door which holds the push-button lock to the door. Removal of this is necessary to have enough cable slack to pull out the assembly. Next, on the left adjacent side of the door frame - the part that physically grabs the frame of the car: use a powerful screwdriver to unscrew 3 silver metal screws, grouped 2 on top in a row, 1 below. These screws are what hold the actuator and assembly to the door frame. Next, looking at the main face of the door frame, there are white and black "alligator clips" holding the assembly to the door frame which can be pushed out using fingers or two flat heads- push in laterally towards the center, then once then enough, push through the hole. There is also one screw that must be removed. This should have removed a black plastic guard from the white actuator assembly.
VERY carefully now, remove another screw on the door frame which attaches to a long metal frame that after inspection and feeling, the rubber-felt indicates that it holds the window when it's rolled down. I say to do this carefully because if it is bent or secured wrong could ruin your window or motor. This shouldn't be a problem as it shouldnt break and is easy push out of the way, but care must be taken. Even a small adjustment to the positioning at the top or bottom end could have a profound impact on the thin glass.
Now the actuator and assembly should be relatively loose, you should notice that it's connected to 2 metal rods at the top of the assembly. The thinner rod on the far left is what connects to the key lock on the outside, while the thicker one on the inside operates the function of the outside handle. Similar to removal of the cable connecting the inside door handle to the door panel, these rods are attached to clips which are easily removed with your hand or a screwdriver. The rods are "S-shaped" at the ends and after removing the clips. My friend who was a technician assured me that these clips and rods can be taken out at the end the attaches to the actuator or the ends which attach to the outside door lock and handle at the top of the door, whichever your most comfortable with. If you are going to remove the rods from the top end, which I did, note the presence of a small hole near the top left of the door which is covered in plastic. The plastic can be punched out with a finger, which greatly aids in viewing or removing the clips/rods. Either way, just remove one end of the rod.
Here is a close-up of the actuator and assembly. The actuator is small part sticking out on the bottom, with the green circle on it:
[IMG]01-28-07_1519.jpg[/IMG]
The white actuator and assembly should be able to slide out now from the inside of the door frame. Note the presence of the smaller actuator to the larger assembly, this is only where you will need to work. Carefully remove the two wire plugs that plug into the actuator. To remove the actuator from the assembly, two small phillips head screws must be removed which may be difficult to find at first, one is sort of hidden. After careful inspection, this should become apparent. One screw opens the assembly to access and view the actuator while the other screw removes the actuator from the assembly. The replacement is relatively easy and should also be fairly intuitive.
Putting the whole assembly back together was unfortunately more difficult than taking it apart, but it can be done by reversing the process through memory. I used a small flashlight to aid putting the rods back together which can be ergonomically difficult. A problem I encountered was that I wasn't able or frankly did not want to put the black plastic guard or whatever that goes around the white actuator and assembly back on. After analyzing the functionality of all the parts, I did not see a need for it, which may prove foolish because surely it must have some purpose, perhaps organizational or protective- but knowing that everything would function fine without it, I didn't attach it because of lack of time available. I saved the part and if anything indicates its necessary or I end up with more time, I'll put it back on.
I hope these instructions have been helpful to those considering the replacement themselves. I'm certainly glad I did it considering I may have saved over $200 and I can use my remote and power locks again. I hope this hasn't been too long of a post, I wanted to be as clear as possible since I wasn't able to take pictures of the entire process. Feel free to reply or PM me with any questions. Good luck!
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: VA
Sorry, I don't think my pictures of the actuator replacement displayed previously. If anyone could offer assistance in how to post them, I'd be glad to do so. I am using a Mac Powerbook and iPhoto to view them if that matters. I can also email them if anyone would like. Just let me know. Thanks, Bryan (BW61885)
7th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Anyone have problem with garage door opener. Mine never worked. I guess my door decided to go on me now. My remote doesn't open nor close with my remote. I can't even use the switch attached to the door. I have to do it manually. Bringing it to my dealer ASAP. Hope it's a quick process.
Licensed Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Hanover, MD
Add another one to the list...
Mine just died a couple weeks ago... Got an appointment to have it fixed under warranty... I thought I was the only one...
It's even more annoying that others are having the same problem since it seems to be a quality issue rather than a freak occurance...
Mine just died a couple weeks ago... Got an appointment to have it fixed under warranty... I thought I was the only one...
It's even more annoying that others are having the same problem since it seems to be a quality issue rather than a freak occurance...
Out n about
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale
I just changed mine last week. I thought it had to do with the alarm, but it turned out to be the door actuator. Good thing it was under warranty. I didn't know *that many* people had this problem.
OEM plus!
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
From: Chicago area
Just had mine done on the passenger side of my 05 with 24K on the clock.
The funny thing is that the door doesn't close as smoothly now. It requires a little more force to shut. It only seems to be like that when the window is up. when the window is open all the way down it shuts just like brand new.
The funny thing is that the door doesn't close as smoothly now. It requires a little more force to shut. It only seems to be like that when the window is up. when the window is open all the way down it shuts just like brand new.
does the lock/actuator make a wheezing noise before it dies?
b/c i've noticed that my back-left passenger door lock makes this wheezing sound after i lock the doors from the inside. it's kind of annoying. haha.
b/c i've noticed that my back-left passenger door lock makes this wheezing sound after i lock the doors from the inside. it's kind of annoying. haha.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 1
From: BaY ArEa
Originally Posted by xjohnkdoex
does the lock/actuator make a wheezing noise before it dies?
b/c i've noticed that my back-left passenger door lock makes this wheezing sound after i lock the doors from the inside. it's kind of annoying. haha.
b/c i've noticed that my back-left passenger door lock makes this wheezing sound after i lock the doors from the inside. it's kind of annoying. haha.
At least I have an 07 TL loaner 
boost owns
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,367
Likes: 3
From: CT
So I dropped my car off this morning for this problem, and picked it up an hour ago. Now, my lock/unlock switch works for all doors, but my remote lock/unlock buttons on the remote still don't do anything! And I know it's not the remote itself, because the parking lights still flash when I push unlock.
I don't know what's up now, but I'm taking the car back to Acura tomorrow morning and they're going to look at it.
This is getting very frustrating.
I don't know what's up now, but I'm taking the car back to Acura tomorrow morning and they're going to look at it.
This is getting very frustrating.
ok so i went to autozone to borrow their code reader to try to erase my airbag check light deal... it said no codes found so i went ahead and erased all codes...
now when i lock my doors. the car wont beep. and the driver door refuses to lock.. but if i sit inside and push the lock button. all four dooors lock.. guys got any ideas how i fix this!?
now when i lock my doors. the car wont beep. and the driver door refuses to lock.. but if i sit inside and push the lock button. all four dooors lock.. guys got any ideas how i fix this!?
welp.. turns out. today mine went out TOOOO.
sigh not sure if it was cuz i was rewiring stuff for the navi again the other day...
but pretty sure..
it doesnt go up at all even when i push the buttons inside the car..
sometimes it moves a little up..
checking my voltage recently im at 13.8ish..
but i doubt thats it..
works fine with key... and if i lock it and press lock agian on the remote
it'll beep like normal.
i'll call the dealerships tomorrow to see if they can replace..
i hope they dont say anything about my window up module.. one touch sunroof module.. or heck even my navi swap=X
edit]:: 2006 tsx asm [stock non-navi] in the middle of navi swap... almost 30k
sigh not sure if it was cuz i was rewiring stuff for the navi again the other day...
but pretty sure..
it doesnt go up at all even when i push the buttons inside the car..
sometimes it moves a little up..
checking my voltage recently im at 13.8ish..
but i doubt thats it..
works fine with key... and if i lock it and press lock agian on the remote
it'll beep like normal.
i'll call the dealerships tomorrow to see if they can replace..
i hope they dont say anything about my window up module.. one touch sunroof module.. or heck even my navi swap=X
edit]:: 2006 tsx asm [stock non-navi] in the middle of navi swap... almost 30k
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Mines been like this for about 2 months on the passenger for 04 5AT @49,650 miles. Gunna go get it repaired under warranty for my final check up before it expires. Sounds like they need a recall!!
Senior Moderator
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 47,710
Likes: 801
From: Toronto, Canada
Well, mine worked fine this morning. Must have something to do with humidity because it was very humid the last couple of days when it didn't work and not humid at all this morning. Not sure if that means the actuator still has to be replaced.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 837
Likes: 5
From: Sacto
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Happenned to me too man. It was my F passenger side.
I got it fixed under warranty. I'm out of warranty now though
I got it fixed under warranty. I'm out of warranty now though
its an easy fix. if u install all those stuff on ur car .. this is doable. parts only about 30 bucks retail price.
happenining to me right now. im just lazy to fix it. didnt have dealer do it cuz i have dynomatt on my doors and i didnt want to take a chance that the tech willl blame it on the dynomatt. since it pushes the door panel by a 1/4 of an inch causing preasure on the rod itself. and might cause the acutator to go out. the gear inside actuator is made of plastic.
they said its 100 bucks or so for taking the door panel apart and to inspect the actuator. another 30 bucks for parts. another 150 for the repair labor. if this were to be the dynomatt that caused it.
so 30 bucks vs 300ish .. i'll just buy the part and fix it myself.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Pictoral guide to Front Driver-side Door Actuator Replacement
Hi everyone,
Just did this today on my '04 TSX, following BW61885's original directions. Took lots of pics of the whole process plus some pages from the actual service manual.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&id=502851915
The Acurazine forums have always been a great source of help for my car. I'm hoping that this helps someone out there.
Cheers,
djpinoy
Just did this today on my '04 TSX, following BW61885's original directions. Took lots of pics of the whole process plus some pages from the actual service manual.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&id=502851915
The Acurazine forums have always been a great source of help for my car. I'm hoping that this helps someone out there.
Cheers,
djpinoy
Originally Posted by djpinoy
Hi everyone,
Just did this today on my '04 TSX, following BW61885's original directions. Took lots of pics of the whole process plus some pages from the actual service manual.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&id=502851915
The Acurazine forums have always been a great source of help for my car. I'm hoping that this helps someone out there.
Cheers,
djpinoy
Just did this today on my '04 TSX, following BW61885's original directions. Took lots of pics of the whole process plus some pages from the actual service manual.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&id=502851915
The Acurazine forums have always been a great source of help for my car. I'm hoping that this helps someone out there.
Cheers,
djpinoy
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
THANKS!!! to djpinoy and BW61885!! I replaced the actuator ($38) Saturday and it took about an hour thanks to the instructions and pics from these guys! You covered all the potential hang-ups and mistakes... I had no issues and managed not to break anything during the process.
Dealer's quote when I called was that it could be around $300-$400... so you all saved me quite a bit of cash!!
Thanks!!
Dealer's quote when I called was that it could be around $300-$400... so you all saved me quite a bit of cash!!
Thanks!!