I just realize that I cannot just change the brake fluid "correctly by-the-book" by pumping the brake as usual. The car has anti-lock brake. If I just pump the brake, the old brake fluid inside the anti-lock brake unit will just stay there.

I think I need the Honda diagnostic computer to set the anti-lock brake unit to open the valve... right?

hmmm... I think I will just take the car to the dealer and have them do it correctly.

 

The service manual instructs pumping the pedal and mentions nothing about using HDS. The dealer would do it the same way, perhaps using a brake bleeder instead of pumping.

If you look at the ABS unit closely, you will see two large dia lines going in from the brake master cylincer. Then four smaller lines out of the ABS unit to the brake calipers. If you have fluid coming out of each caliper when releasing the bleeder valve, the fluid has gone through the ABS unit.

 

I changed mine 2 weeks ago using the method in the Helm's (basic pumping method w/ 2 people - one at the corner, one in the car).

Do you have a Helm's manual? If not, the proper procedure (paraphrased from Helm's) is:

a: Always use Honda Heavy Duty DOT3 brake fluid (any good DOT3 or DOT4 will work. I used Prestone synthetic DOT4 and like it so far).
b: Do not use brake fluid from a previously-opened container. It is hydroscopic (sp?) meaning it self-contaminates with moisture in the air. Always use a new bottle of fluid.
c: Don't get brake fluid on paint. It will ruin the finish and can strip paint. Wash immediately with water if you do get some on the paint by accident.
d: The resevoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add new fluid as required.

1. Make sure resevoir is at MAX
2. Attach a length of clear drain tube to the bleed screw.
3. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
4. Loosen the brake bleed screw to drain. Add fluid to resevoir when it is low. Repeat 3 and 4 until the fluid is clear-ish (new fluid).
5. Tighten bleed screw to 7 ft-lb (not very tight, really).
6. Repeat procedure for each corner and for each, make sure no bubbles appear and the fluid looks similar to the new fluid you are pouring in.
7. Ensure that after each corner is bled, that you top off the master cylinder to the MAX level.

BLEEDING SEQUENCE:
1. Front left (driver)
2. Front right (passenger)
3. Rear right (passenger)
4. Rear left (driver)

 

^^Did this as well, no problems.

 

TSX's ABS is a low pressure system. So you don't have to set anything or bleed the ABS unit separately. What you are thinking off applies to the early model DC2 Integras.

 

So... The cheapest way to change the brake fluid is number 2) down there.


1a) Take the car to the dealer = $100
1b) Watch free movie = -$2.00
1c) Drink free coffee = -$0.99
1d) Eat free breakfast = -$2.00

2a)Buying 2-3 bottles of brake fluid = $15
2b)Buying my friend's lunch and diner for him to help me out = $20
2c)make a mess = $0.99
2d)drive to the recycle center to dump the brake fluid = $0.20

3a)Buying 2-3 bottles of brake fluid = $15
3b)Buying a self brake kit to pump it myself = $35
3c)make a mess = $0.99
3d)drive to the recycle center to dump the brake fluid = $0.20

 

You only need 2 bottles. I would NOT recommend getting the largest (1L?) bottles, as it makes the job a bit harder (disposal, etc).

Also, have a glass mason jar to catch the old fluid as it comes out. Then transfer this to the now-empty bottle that the new fluid came in.

 

In a matter of fact, I have had the hand pump ever since I have my first car many year ago. But my lazy gen is acting up right now. I think I will just take it to the dealer and have them have my cash.

 

I though you were supposed to do the furthest away first? Maybe I've got it backwards...

 

^^
That's how it is for most cars. The procedure for the TSX is a little different.

 

Normally, yes, as JTso says. But the manual (and my dealer) confirmed the TSX is different.

 

Last time I replaced the brake fluid in my last car I used a rubber mallet to tap on the brake calipers to lossen up any remaining bubbles. Then have your friend pump up the brake pedal and _quickly_ open and close the valve at the calipers to get the last bit of air out. You'll see what if any come out in the drain tube. Make sure your friend doesn't let up on the brake pedal during the process. The pedal will depress slightly but not a problem.

 

I know I am a idiot.

I paid $100 for them to change the brake fluid. I changed the brake fluid for all my previous cars all by myself before. (I used a hand pump to do it) But I was getting very lazy lately. So, what the heck.

The dealer said that they hooked it up to a machine to "flush" the system.

I have no idea whether or not they really did it as they said but after forking up the dud, I feel like the brake is a little bit firmer.

My friend told me to see if the brake fluid change color after a month or so.

If the brake fliud stays clean, the guy have done as promised. If the brake fluid turns dark after a month or so, the guy may have cut the corner.

 

This thread is missing the most important first step - empty the old fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster and refill with fresh fluid. Then begin the bleeding procedure. Call it step 0. Otherwise you are mixing old and new fluid and it takes longer to get new fluid to the brake cylinders.

My favorite brake fluids are ATE Blue and ATE 200; one is blue and the other is amber.
You use blue first, then amber, then blue ... The colors make is easy to see when you have completely changed the fluid. BMP Designs is one source.

 

Make that BMP Design - I don't know if I'm allowed to post a link if they aren't a sponsor.