Air Conditioning problem
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2008
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Air Conditioning problem
So recently my air conditioning has been giving me problems. Sometimes it will work and sometimes it won't. When it doesn't work, if I mess with the fan controls and manually kick it off and back on, eventually it will come back on and blow cold.
I have read the numerous different things it could be and I am pretty sure that since when it is on it blows cold, that it is not a problem with the condenser.
I am leaning towards the problem with the relay. Is there any way to test this? Also I looked under the hood in the fusebox, and I am not sure which relay it would be. There are a few that have the A/C symbol on it.
Any help or suggestions?
Thnx in advance!
I have read the numerous different things it could be and I am pretty sure that since when it is on it blows cold, that it is not a problem with the condenser.
I am leaning towards the problem with the relay. Is there any way to test this? Also I looked under the hood in the fusebox, and I am not sure which relay it would be. There are a few that have the A/C symbol on it.
Any help or suggestions?
Thnx in advance!
in the 24th and a half...
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 852
Likes: 38
OK, four things to test in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Of the three big relays nearest the firewall mounted longest direction front to back, the left and center (looking from the front of the car) are the Blower Motor Relay (1) and the A/C Compressor Relay (2). On the furthest from the firewall side mounted longest side left/right, they are the A/C Condenser Fan Relay (left, 15) and Radiator Fan Relay (right, 14).
These are "normally-open" type relays, and are tested by checking for continuity between the terminals as follows:
With power and ground to 3 and 4, 1 and 3 should have continuity.
Without, 1 and 2 should have no continuity.
If you want, the A/C has a diagnostic mode (the techs use this AFTER checking the HDS for multiplex integrated control system errors, but since you can't check that, we may as well try this):
1) Turn ignition switch on (II)
2) Press AUTO button and set temperature to LO
3) Press and hold OFF button. While holding OFF button, press the rear window defogger button five times within 10 seconds. The self-diagnostic will begin.
Ok, here's the fun...the temperature disply will now light certain segments to show the problem, these will alternate every second with the full "88" and "88" display.
Carefully make a note of the segments displayed...and post them here, it's too long to type up.
Suggest you use a format like "drivers side, right number, center horizontal and left bottom vertical"...which would translate into a motor control issue and an evaporator sensor issue.
If there are no problems detected, the screen will go blank in 10 seconds.
4) Turn of ignition or press AUTO to cancel function.
These are "normally-open" type relays, and are tested by checking for continuity between the terminals as follows:
With power and ground to 3 and 4, 1 and 3 should have continuity.
Without, 1 and 2 should have no continuity.
If you want, the A/C has a diagnostic mode (the techs use this AFTER checking the HDS for multiplex integrated control system errors, but since you can't check that, we may as well try this):
1) Turn ignition switch on (II)
2) Press AUTO button and set temperature to LO
3) Press and hold OFF button. While holding OFF button, press the rear window defogger button five times within 10 seconds. The self-diagnostic will begin.
Ok, here's the fun...the temperature disply will now light certain segments to show the problem, these will alternate every second with the full "88" and "88" display.
Carefully make a note of the segments displayed...and post them here, it's too long to type up.
Suggest you use a format like "drivers side, right number, center horizontal and left bottom vertical"...which would translate into a motor control issue and an evaporator sensor issue.
If there are no problems detected, the screen will go blank in 10 seconds.
4) Turn of ignition or press AUTO to cancel function.
10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Concrete Jungle Where Dreams Are Made Of
Did you try running this diagnostic test?
OK, four things to test in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Of the three big relays nearest the firewall mounted longest direction front to back, the left and center (looking from the front of the car) are the Blower Motor Relay (1) and the A/C Compressor Relay (2). On the furthest from the firewall side mounted longest side left/right, they are the A/C Condenser Fan Relay (left, 15) and Radiator Fan Relay (right, 14).
These are "normally-open" type relays, and are tested by checking for continuity between the terminals as follows:
With power and ground to 3 and 4, 1 and 3 should have continuity.
Without, 1 and 2 should have no continuity.
If you want, the A/C has a diagnostic mode (the techs use this AFTER checking the HDS for multiplex integrated control system errors, but since you can't check that, we may as well try this):
1) Turn ignition switch on (II)
2) Press AUTO button and set temperature to LO
3) Press and hold OFF button. While holding OFF button, press the rear window defogger button five times within 10 seconds. The self-diagnostic will begin.
Ok, here's the fun...the temperature disply will now light certain segments to show the problem, these will alternate every second with the full "88" and "88" display.
Carefully make a note of the segments displayed...and post them here, it's too long to type up.
Suggest you use a format like "drivers side, right number, center horizontal and left bottom vertical"...which would translate into a motor control issue and an evaporator sensor issue.
If there are no problems detected, the screen will go blank in 10 seconds.
4) Turn of ignition or press AUTO to cancel function.
These are "normally-open" type relays, and are tested by checking for continuity between the terminals as follows:
With power and ground to 3 and 4, 1 and 3 should have continuity.
Without, 1 and 2 should have no continuity.
If you want, the A/C has a diagnostic mode (the techs use this AFTER checking the HDS for multiplex integrated control system errors, but since you can't check that, we may as well try this):
1) Turn ignition switch on (II)
2) Press AUTO button and set temperature to LO
3) Press and hold OFF button. While holding OFF button, press the rear window defogger button five times within 10 seconds. The self-diagnostic will begin.
Ok, here's the fun...the temperature disply will now light certain segments to show the problem, these will alternate every second with the full "88" and "88" display.
Carefully make a note of the segments displayed...and post them here, it's too long to type up.
Suggest you use a format like "drivers side, right number, center horizontal and left bottom vertical"...which would translate into a motor control issue and an evaporator sensor issue.
If there are no problems detected, the screen will go blank in 10 seconds.
4) Turn of ignition or press AUTO to cancel function.
10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Concrete Jungle Where Dreams Are Made Of
Sorry to hear that. I just replaced mine, but not even sure that was the problem. I purchased mine from Delray Acura, was signicantly less than the list price at my local dealer. Good luck with yours.
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10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: N Cal
Our 04 TSX A/C compressor went out yesterday and is currently at the dealer getting "looked" at. After reading all the posts, It looks like I am about to be taken for a ride resulting from a poorly designed product. I sincerly Hope Acura decides to help out with this.
I would also like to thank everyone who posts on this site! The info is so helpful!
I would also like to thank everyone who posts on this site! The info is so helpful!
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