6spd Transmission Problems

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Old 12-22-2005, 09:17 PM
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6spd Transmission Problems

Has anyone had any problems with their 6spd Transmission in the TSX. I bought the car this past June and after driving it 3500km from Toronto - Nova Scotia and back, the main shaft bearing went. My local dealer torn open the transmission and replaced a few bearings and a ton of gaskets. Ever since this fix, my shifting between 1 & 2 has been very notchy. Since this happened so quickley, I haven't been able to enjoy the 6spd that everyone is talking about. The shifting just doesn't feel right. I suppose I should test drive another TSX at a dealer to compare.....I might be supprised.
Old 12-22-2005, 09:25 PM
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What year TSX?
Old 12-22-2005, 09:33 PM
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2005 TSX bought in June 2005. Now has 18,000k
Old 12-23-2005, 12:31 AM
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^^Sorry to hear about your problem. I've had mine two years and it's been flawless ('04).
Old 12-23-2005, 12:34 AM
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At my last oil change (20,000) I got my tranny fluid changed to this stuff called Redline. It's synthetic. I had been noticing notchiness for the last 2000 miles or so. They said my tranny fluid had gone bad, guess it happens around 15,000. Maybe you should try changing fluid. It made a world of difference for me. Now I love shifting again!
Old 12-23-2005, 06:59 AM
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I have read elsewhere on AZ that the Acura's manual tranny oil is fairly specialized -- not exotic, just specialized. Is the Redline a legitimate alternative to the Honda MT oil? How does one know? In other words, what are the specs on the Honda oil -- like, the engine oil is 5W-30 so you can use any brand of that viscosity. How do you compare one MT oil to another to see that you're using the right stuff?
Old 12-23-2005, 09:46 AM
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It could also be that they didn't put the car back together just right - or is it just the cold weather?
Old 12-23-2005, 10:31 AM
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The acura dealership recommended and put in the redline fluid for me so I figure it's ok.
Old 12-23-2005, 10:47 AM
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Hmm I've been noticing slight notchiness sometimes when I shift into first gear. I've only noticed it recently. Sometimes it doesn't click in so I have to pull it back and push it in again.. or force it in. This also has been the case with my reverse gear. Ever since I bought my car at times when I throw it in reverse, while my car is not moving, it either won't go straight in or I hear a NASTY gear grind and have to pull it out and engage it again.
Old 12-23-2005, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by PixelHarmony
Hmm I've been noticing slight notchiness sometimes when I shift into first gear. I've only noticed it recently. Sometimes it doesn't click in so I have to pull it back and push it in again.. or force it in. This also has been the case with my reverse gear. Ever since I bought my car at times when I throw it in reverse, while my car is not moving, it either won't go straight in or I hear a NASTY gear grind and have to pull it out and engage it again.
I would say it could be because of the cold weather. I park my car outside and it usually takes my car a few minutes before the transmission warms up and the synchros will really work smoothly. When I park inside or I warm up the car first there isn't usually much of an issue. If your car is getting up near 15,000miles I would say see about changing your tranmission fluid to synthetic redline.
Old 12-23-2005, 10:54 AM
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Right before I changed my tranny fluid I was going at WOT in first to redline, I tried to shift into 2nd and I actually bounced off of 2nd gear.
Old 12-23-2005, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
At my last oil change (20,000) I got my tranny fluid changed to this stuff called Redline. It's synthetic. I had been noticing notchiness for the last 2000 miles or so. They said my tranny fluid had gone bad, guess it happens around 15,000. Maybe you should try changing fluid. It made a world of difference for me. Now I love shifting again!
Your MT fluid went bad at 15,000 miles? That sounds way too low. Even AT's only call for fluid changes every 30,000 or so, depending on driving conditons, and manuals usually go much longer than that. Acura recommends 60,000 under the severe schedule for the MT.

Something is amiss here.
Old 12-23-2005, 12:00 PM
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yeah I was kinda surprised it went bad too. It made a huge difference when I changed though. One factor could be that I do love to row through my gears and I downshift through the gears at every stop. Do you think that downshifting would wear out the fluid faster if I downshift through every gear except 1st?
Old 12-23-2005, 12:33 PM
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^^^I'd say so. Downshifting through the gears at every stop is a little much I'd think. You know the old adage, replacing brakes is cheaper than replacing a tranny.

Downshifting during spirited driving, yes, downshifting at every stop, no.
Old 12-23-2005, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
yeah I was kinda surprised it went bad too. It made a huge difference when I changed though. One factor could be that I do love to row through my gears and I downshift through the gears at every stop. Do you think that downshifting would wear out the fluid faster if I downshift through every gear except 1st?
that's a lot of downshifting.

on any given drive, i'd probably downshift about 30% of the time to a complete stop.
Old 12-23-2005, 03:50 PM
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Yeah I guess I probably shouldn't always downshift, but I love doing it. My dad, who had his first MT Legend for 7 years and then his second MT Legend for 8 years, taught me to do it and he's never had to replace a clutch. Maybe I'll try to break the habit though. Suppose it could save my synchros which might be worth it.
Old 12-23-2005, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
Yeah I guess I probably shouldn't always downshift, but I love doing it. My dad, who had his first MT Legend for 7 years and then his second MT Legend for 8 years, taught me to do it and he's never had to replace a clutch. Maybe I'll try to break the habit though. Suppose it could save my synchros which might be worth it.
Proper downshifting to a stop (w/o going to 1st gear) WILL save your transmission wear out prematurely.
Old 12-23-2005, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Power1Pete
Proper downshifting to a stop (w/o going to 1st gear) WILL save your transmission wear out prematurely.
Exactly how will this happen? If you're comparing proper downshifting versus improper downshifting, then you didn't make that clear.

But the transmission will suffer less wear if you don't downshift at all when coming to a stop, relying only on the brakes.
Old 12-23-2005, 06:56 PM
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yeah how can downshifting save my tranny?
Old 12-25-2005, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
yeah how can downshifting save my tranny?
when your car is going more than 30 mph and the transmission is in neutral, your tranny doesn't get any lubrication at all.

No lube = bad for transmission.

Therefore, proper downshifting (rev match) is the best way to slow down.

In addition, some states actually outlaw coasting in neutral (i.e. New York).
Old 12-25-2005, 02:49 AM
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I don't know about not getting any lubrication in neutral -- doesn't sound right but I don't have that much expertise with manual transmissions. What I have found, though, is that leaving the car in gear (clutch out) until 12-15 mph (while braking coming to a stoplight, say) and depressing the clutch at that point provides some engine braking. I've had to get used to it as my habit was to just press the clutch when I started braking, and then rowing through the gears (except 1st) with the clutch in. Don't ask me where I got this habit, I don't know. The engine doesn't buck or stammer or anything at 15 mph and I think it's much better for the tranny, sychros, and (a little) the brakes.
Old 12-25-2005, 12:33 PM
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35,000 miles not one problem.
Old 12-25-2005, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by peter_bigblock
I don't know about not getting any lubrication in neutral -- doesn't sound right but I don't have that much expertise with manual transmissions. What I have found, though, is that leaving the car in gear (clutch out) until 12-15 mph (while braking coming to a stoplight, say) and depressing the clutch at that point provides some engine braking. I've had to get used to it as my habit was to just press the clutch when I started braking, and then rowing through the gears (except 1st) with the clutch in. Don't ask me where I got this habit, I don't know. The engine doesn't buck or stammer or anything at 15 mph and I think it's much better for the tranny, sychros, and (a little) the brakes.
i agree...

this is what i do. up until the rpm's hit below 1000, i'll leave it in gear. once it touches < 1000 rpm's, pop it in neutral...
Old 12-25-2005, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
Yeah I guess I probably shouldn't always downshift, but I love doing it. My dad, who had his first MT Legend for 7 years and then his second MT Legend for 8 years, taught me to do it and he's never had to replace a clutch. Maybe I'll try to break the habit though. Suppose it could save my synchros which might be worth it.
i don't know if you shouldn't always do it. your dad seems to have done it for a long time, and hasn't had a problem with it. the only downside i can think of to this is maybe the use of more gas.

maybe if i wasn't as lazy, i'd probably be downshifting 24/7 too...
Old 12-25-2005, 08:09 PM
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I read somewhere on this forum that when downshifting you aren't using any extra gas. Guess I'll ask my service guy about it when I go in on tuesday. Probably won't know that much, but it's always worth a shot.
Old 12-25-2005, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
I read somewhere on this forum that when downshifting you aren't using any extra gas. Guess I'll ask my service guy about it when I go in on tuesday. Probably won't know that much, but it's always worth a shot.
When you downshift, the accelerator is in the closed position and the fuel injectors won't inject any fuel to the combustion chamber because of that. Therefore, downshifting uses LESS gas than coasting in neutral / idle.
Old 12-27-2005, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by stewie20068
I would say it could be because of the cold weather. I park my car outside and it usually takes my car a few minutes before the transmission warms up and the synchros will really work smoothly. When I park inside or I warm up the car first there isn't usually much of an issue. If your car is getting up near 15,000miles I would say see about changing your tranmission fluid to synthetic redline.
Hmm, maybe warming up my car is the case. I do recall this happening during the warm summer with my reverse gear.

I really wonder what the deal is, can anyone explain why when I am at a complete stop, I press the clutch all the way, and attempt to put my car in reverse it sometimes gives a nasty gear grind and won't go in? This happened from day one I got my car and is still happening at 19k miles. It doesn't happen often, I'd say maybe 10% of the time.

Also, is changing the tranny fliud straightforward and simple?
Old 12-27-2005, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by PixelHarmony
Hmm, maybe warming up my car is the case. I do recall this happening during the warm summer with my reverse gear.

I really wonder what the deal is, can anyone explain why when I am at a complete stop, I press the clutch all the way, and attempt to put my car in reverse it sometimes gives a nasty gear grind and won't go in? This happened from day one I got my car and is still happening at 19k miles. It doesn't happen often, I'd say maybe 10% of the time.

Also, is changing the tranny fliud straightforward and simple?
I've never had the reverse gear grind when at complete stop, but mine will grind 100% if my car is rolling backwards and I attempt to put it into reverse. Anyone else get this? I was able to roll and shift into reverse in my bro's civic, but not my TSX.
Old 12-28-2005, 06:32 PM
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I got my dealer to change my transmission fluid so I don't know if it is very difficult or not. It seemed like they changed it in about 5 minutes.

I can't roll backwards and then put it in reverse. I have to come to a complete stop.
Old 12-28-2005, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HoRRo
I've never had the reverse gear grind when at complete stop, but mine will grind 100% if my car is rolling backwards and I attempt to put it into reverse. Anyone else get this? I was able to roll and shift into reverse in my bro's civic, but not my TSX.
Reverse is not synchronized, hence you get the grind when trying to put it in gear. I can't explain why your brother's civic did not do this, but this is fairly normal for MT's.

To avoid doing damage to your tranny, make sure you are at a full stop before attempting to engage reverse, regardless of if you have the clutch in or not.
Old 12-28-2005, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by PixelHarmony
Hmm I've been noticing slight notchiness sometimes when I shift into first gear. I've only noticed it recently. Sometimes it doesn't click in so I have to pull it back and push it in again.. or force it in. This also has been the case with my reverse gear. Ever since I bought my car at times when I throw it in reverse, while my car is not moving, it either won't go straight in or I hear a NASTY gear grind and have to pull it out and engage it again.
Sometimes you get a "teeth on teeth" situation in 1st and reverse when stationary. This is normal.

But never a grind in reverse when stationary. This points to your clutch plate not fully disengaging.
Old 12-28-2005, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HoRRo
I've never had the reverse gear grind when at complete stop, but mine will grind 100% if my car is rolling backwards and I attempt to put it into reverse. Anyone else get this? I was able to roll and shift into reverse in my bro's civic, but not my TSX.
TSX's reverse gear has no synchros. But I know of other cars with synchros in reverse and can go into reverse gear while moving.
Old 12-29-2005, 08:01 AM
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Thx Eeyore and aaron, I figured it was something along those lines.
Old 12-29-2005, 11:52 AM
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One way to avoid the reverse gear grind is to go from neutral, to 1st, and then directly to reverse. This trick worked on my 1991 Integra like magic (never failed) and it's habit that I go 1st-reverse now with the TSX, and I've never had a grind in reverse with this car, ever.
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