I was driving and started to smell something like burning. The radio then stopped producing sound. So I looked at the manual and though maybe it could be the amp fuse. Sure enough it was blown. I followed the manual when replacing the #5 amp fuse and turned the ignition to 0 and left all lights off. Could the amp be fried? Just trying to get everyones thoughts on this. I have tried (4) 20 amp fuses. I unplugged the positive battery terminal and then installed. As soon as I connected my girlfriend heard the fuse blow. Ideas on what could be the problem and how to determine exactly would be great. Also if it is in fact an after market amp what would be a good replacement amp.

I am actually in the process right now of leaving both battery terminals disconnected for half an hour. I will replace fuse and connect and see if that makes a difference.

 

Assuming display is normal but no sound...troubleshooting short version...

Remove center console pocket and disconnect stereo amp connections A (20P) and B (14P). With ignition switch OFF, measure voltage between stereo amp connector A ternminal 10 (white/blue or white wire) and a body ground. Battery voltage and you have an open between fuse and amp...

Ignition to ACC...measure A #9 (Yellow/Red) and body ground. No voltage and you have a open between fuse 32 and the amp...battery voltage then...

Reconnect A and measure voltage from B #7 (Yellow/Green) and body ground. No voltage, open between audio unit and amp...battery voltage then...

Ignition ON...Measure B #14 and body ground...not less than 0.1v, open between amp and ground (G504) or flaw in ground...less than 0.1v then...

Measure A #20 (Black) and body ground...not less than 0.1v, same as above...less than 0.1v means a stereo or amp failure of some sort...

More steps available...post if you want them...

 

I would like more steps cause i want to print these directions out while checking. So I can do it all at once. I would like to add the only work I have had done is having the car aligned at a tire shop. Not sure if they could have disconnected a ground of some sort but just wanted to put this out there.

 

Tire shop, no way...

Next step is remove Audio/HVAC Unit...then it's all checking resistance and continuity...possible faults are grounds, harness between unit and amp, bad speaker, bad amp and bad head unit.

Wire colors are diffferent for 04-05 and 06...I don't have colors for 07 and 08...what year?

 

This is a 2005. I am having so much trouble getting center console off. I already broke the ring around shifter. I followed guides I found on here to pull up with both hands. I have tried and tried my fingers are sore from it and forearms were getting cramps I tried so long. I think I can fix the ring easily with gorilla glue of course. Any tips and advice for getting this console off would be great I searched and searched the forum and found most all posts on getting it off.

 

OK, for an '05...

Center console...write down security codes...remove driver and passenger inner dashboard trim...remove center console (pull from front to back)...remover center upper pocket...remove center lower pocket...remove hazard switch...then it's 3 screws from front and 2 screws from bottom, undo connectors and antenna, then pull off 8 clips around entire perimeter....

More fun begins...disconnect audio connector A (20P) and stereo amp connector B (14P) and check continunity between...

A7 (FR+) - B4 (Green)
A17 (FR-) - B11 (Red)
A8 (FL+) - B1 (Yellow)
A18 (FL-) - B8 (Brown)
A5 (RR+) - B6 (Purple)
A15 (RR-) - B13 (Light Blue)
A6 (RL+) - B3 (Blue)
A16 (RL-) - B10 (Pink)

Lack means short to ground between audio and amp...

Otherwise...

Then Check continuity between amp B (14P) and shield terminals...
B4 - B5
B11 - B5
B1 - B2
B8 - B2
B6 - B12
B13 - B12
B3 - B9
B10 - B9

Lack is a short in harness between audio and amp...

If not found yet, then disconnect amp connector A (20P)

Measure resistance between amp A terminals...all should be 4 ohm

A3 - A13 - Drivers door
A2 - A12 - Front passengers door
A4 - A14 - Left tweeter
A1 - A11 - Right tweeter
A8 - A18 - Left rear door
A7 - A17 - Right rear door
A6 - A16 - Left rear
A5 - A15 - Right rear

Non-4 ohm means replace speaker listed...

Otherwise...then check the same two terminals above for each speaker to body ground...checking for continuity...a lack means a short to ground between amp and speaker listed...

Otherwise sub a known good amp for current unit...if it now works, the amp was bad...if it doesn't the audio unit is bad...

Ready to drink yet?

 

Do I have to purchase this replacement amp. Is there another option to replace this factor amp with something better

 

Check audio upgrade threads...

 

I checked the audio forums but kind of hard to find something on my generation because the audio forum is not really broken down by that. I searched a good while and didn't really find any good recommendations. Could you point me to a thread that has some good recommendations for an after market amp. I took the car to best buy car audio department and they said I could replace with pretty much any four channel amp but would have to run the amp into the trunk.

 

Everything I ever read on the TSX indicated there is no acceptable drop-in stock amp replacement...it's a little POC...