Kolbeeg

Hello I have a 04 TSX with 127k miles that is throwing p0325. Originally thought it was going to be a simple fix by just replacing it but that hasn’t been the case. Originally put in a dualast replacement, code was still being thrown so went and got an OEM, code is still being thrown, replaced the wire from the sensor to the harness with a heat shrink but joint, once again still getting the code, went back and got a new pigtail and did things the right way by saughtering it in, and still haven’t been able to fix the issue.

with that I have also replaced the battery ground along with the ground that comes off the transmission mount. Brand new alternator, battery and starter done as well. Code was thrown before doing the starter so I don’t think anything was harmed there.

I’ve done absolutely everything I can think of and read just about every thread I can find on forums so please any realistic ideas or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Jonv05

2008 tsx following. same boat as well. Replaced sensor and bought new connector and wire. Was suggested to bypass the wire harness and connect straight to the plug. Code disappears after a time but comes back.

John from PA

Where did you get your replacement sensor?

Is the P0325 code being cleared from the ECU after you did the remedial work? I can't speak to the need on an Acura, but many cars have to have this code cleared, or the code notification just repeats. It can be cleared with most OBD II readers or simply disconnecting the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes. Good info on the P0325 code at P0325 Code – Causes, Symptoms, and Fixes

Proper gas too can be a factor. I think the 2004 TSX requires 93 octane. If you are getting that, and from one particular station, try a different source. It wouldn't be the first time a station was attempting to rip off the consumer.

Good luck!

curyfury

How does one differentiate a knock sensor code meaning something is wrong with the knock sensor circuitry vs. a knock sensor code meaning your sensor is working and detecting a knock condition? Is it possible you’re chasing the wrong root cause?

John from PA

I believe the P0325 code means specifically a fault in the sensor or sensor related circuitry. Perhaps the code in combination with a CE light means the engine truly has a knock, or “Ping” as it is often called. I’ve only experienced the situation once, and it was audibly noticeable, but I had no code or CE light. In a day or two it was gone, likely as a result of buying different gas.

Some good content about the P0325 code at P0325 code

Kolbeeg

Curious have you replaced your alternator with a non oem? Recently started having issues with my speedometer and tachometer dropping to 0 and VSA light coming back on, both will come back after a second with the VSA light staying on.

Kolbeeg

So I’ve been thru quite a few at this point, duralast, followed by part # Atm8472926 from Napa and actual Honda OEM from Honda Las Vegas. All of which have been tested with a multimeter and showing they were functioning properly.

Im on the west coast so 93 isn’t an option, highest I have and have been using is 91. I did do a Techron addative and drive thru the tank, I really didn’t see much of a difference to be honest maybe a couple more miles till E but it wasn’t night and day difference. I’ve been going back and forth between different Shell and Chevron stations so I can’t say I’ve gotten a bad tank of gas

At first I was disconnecting the battery for about 20-30 minutes and it would go away, sometimes I’d drive 1/4 mile and it would come back, sometimes I could do 20 minutes of city driving, 40 on the highway and think it’s gone for good, go home and the next time I turn it on within the 1/4 mile or so it’s back on. After a couple heartbreaks from dealing with that I picked up a obd2 reader that can clear codes as well as some live data. Even with that it’s still back on within no time.

Kolbeeg

Funny you say that, when I first had the codes read I saw the knock bank 1 and thought it was that without looking into it. The car still needed a cat and both O2 sensors plus a handful of other “Tune up” stuff so I ignored it till last figuring it could go away being a false knock, wasn’t till someone said “That’s not your engine possibly having knock, its the sensor” and I reread it and had a good laugh.

Kolbeeg

Since originally posting this I have also changed the ground connection underneath the intake along with spark plugs. I was actually impressed with how clean the plugs I pulled out were and felt a bit wasteful even putting the new ones in but trying to check off anything that could be causing the issue.

Figured to give driving the car a try and see if that would be able to get rid of it. After 560 miles in a week of city and highway driving with trying my hardest to follow the steps posted on here to get rid of a cel light it didn’t work for me at least.

The only thing on the car that’s not OEM is the alternator being a duralast but it’s reading at 14.33 so I want to hope that’s the issue but part of me doesn’t think it actually is causing any problems and not to throw more money at a OEM or even rebuilt OEM