Pics: Injen CAI full mode install (56 k load might be slow)
#1
Drifting
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Pics: Injen CAI full mode install (56 k load might be slow)
Hey all, we installed the Injen CAI in full mode, which entailed removing the resonator. It was more of a pain than either me or my husband expected, but it's in there, and boy does it sound nice!
Here are some pics to help anyone who is going the non-SRI mode.
Resonator/stock filter removal:
Instead of removing the front bumper, we opted to peel back the splash shield on the driver's side:
We couldn't get it to peel back enough to jimmy the resonator out, so we took off the driver side tire and peeled it back:
A couple of bolts later, it was off.
Intake install:
First, the elbow piece went on the throttle body:
Clamped down the primary intake with the vibra-mount:
another pic with hose (but make sure you use your hose clamps-which are not pictured here):
secondary intake goes on:
and finally cone filter is installed where the resonator used to be:
it has a really neat growl to it. of course, make sure that you remember to put on all of the hose clamps (which we forgot on a couple of pictures. hope these are helpful to anyone considering the full CAI installation of the intake.
edited to add: to get the vacuum hose to go over the nipple on the intake, we had to remove the stock valve-thingy (pardon my french). it was a pain in the a, and that's why you don't see pictures of it--it took the both of us to get it out of there before we could put the hose on the intake.
Here are some pics to help anyone who is going the non-SRI mode.
Resonator/stock filter removal:
Instead of removing the front bumper, we opted to peel back the splash shield on the driver's side:
We couldn't get it to peel back enough to jimmy the resonator out, so we took off the driver side tire and peeled it back:
A couple of bolts later, it was off.
Intake install:
First, the elbow piece went on the throttle body:
Clamped down the primary intake with the vibra-mount:
another pic with hose (but make sure you use your hose clamps-which are not pictured here):
secondary intake goes on:
and finally cone filter is installed where the resonator used to be:
it has a really neat growl to it. of course, make sure that you remember to put on all of the hose clamps (which we forgot on a couple of pictures. hope these are helpful to anyone considering the full CAI installation of the intake.
edited to add: to get the vacuum hose to go over the nipple on the intake, we had to remove the stock valve-thingy (pardon my french). it was a pain in the a, and that's why you don't see pictures of it--it took the both of us to get it out of there before we could put the hose on the intake.
#2
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Very nice pictures and instructions....
so did you find it a better route not to remove bumper?
I will be doing mine this week. And what made you go for the black intake(i have the polished one on order)
so did you find it a better route not to remove bumper?
I will be doing mine this week. And what made you go for the black intake(i have the polished one on order)
#3
Injen CAI Install / Resonator Removal
it wasn't that hard but you'll cut up some knuckles
jack up drivers side front and remove tire
top side remove old stock intake form engine bay including removing the actual intake snorkel that is wedged in front of the battery...yep...the air flow starts at the front top of the battery goes down into the lower front part of the engine bay then into a hole into the bumper then it goes up another hole into the engine bay again to the tb...no wonder the car is so quiet under WOT
undo the forward half of the wheel well splash shield and front bumper screws and plastic clips and pull it back and put it behind the front hub...now pull out on the drivers side bumper and clips just below the headlight and near the wheel well will pop it out
now you can get a hand into the bumper to remove the resonator (have someone pull on the bumper to give you room to get your arm in there)...feel around as the resonator is held in by 2 bolts...1st bolt you'll be able to see is in the rear and easily to remove...2nd one is in the front but you can get your hand and a ratchet there to remove it...use your hand to find the bolt first...then use a normal size ratchet and a 6" extension and with luck you'll quickly get it on the bolt and remove it
now remove the bolt holding the resonator (2 pieces)together...once that bolt is removed you will have to pull really freakin hard to get them seperated...once that is done you can pull out the other part of the snorkel then remove the big a$$ resonator box by having someone pull the bumper back
next install the new one and you are home free...reverse removal to install all the pieces...cheers as it sounds so much more alive...still not a f20c or type r cowl induction switch over when the higher lift lobes activate...but nice and sporty
it wasn't that hard but you'll cut up some knuckles
jack up drivers side front and remove tire
top side remove old stock intake form engine bay including removing the actual intake snorkel that is wedged in front of the battery...yep...the air flow starts at the front top of the battery goes down into the lower front part of the engine bay then into a hole into the bumper then it goes up another hole into the engine bay again to the tb...no wonder the car is so quiet under WOT
undo the forward half of the wheel well splash shield and front bumper screws and plastic clips and pull it back and put it behind the front hub...now pull out on the drivers side bumper and clips just below the headlight and near the wheel well will pop it out
now you can get a hand into the bumper to remove the resonator (have someone pull on the bumper to give you room to get your arm in there)...feel around as the resonator is held in by 2 bolts...1st bolt you'll be able to see is in the rear and easily to remove...2nd one is in the front but you can get your hand and a ratchet there to remove it...use your hand to find the bolt first...then use a normal size ratchet and a 6" extension and with luck you'll quickly get it on the bolt and remove it
now remove the bolt holding the resonator (2 pieces)together...once that bolt is removed you will have to pull really freakin hard to get them seperated...once that is done you can pull out the other part of the snorkel then remove the big a$$ resonator box by having someone pull the bumper back
next install the new one and you are home free...reverse removal to install all the pieces...cheers as it sounds so much more alive...still not a f20c or type r cowl induction switch over when the higher lift lobes activate...but nice and sporty
#4
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jaje=my husband, by the way.
if you have a hydraulic jack handy, it is a bit easier than removing the entire bumper, and prevents you from getting the bumper and grill scratched.
we did try to remove the bumper and got so far as to remove the grill. which did end up getting scratched. poor me! i have to look into aftermarket grill options.
if you have a hydraulic jack handy, it is a bit easier than removing the entire bumper, and prevents you from getting the bumper and grill scratched.
we did try to remove the bumper and got so far as to remove the grill. which did end up getting scratched. poor me! i have to look into aftermarket grill options.
#6
Senior Moderator
Thanks for the pics and info guys. But I have one question. Was it not possible to completely remove the driver's side spalsh guard, instead of just peeling it back?
And going by your description jaje, it seems easier to remove the entire bumber since you had to pull it back anyway. Why did you decide not to remove it altogether?
And going by your description jaje, it seems easier to remove the entire bumber since you had to pull it back anyway. Why did you decide not to remove it altogether?
#7
Originally posted by domn
Thanks for the pics and info guys. But I have one question. Was it not possible to completely remove the driver's side spalsh guard, instead of just peeling it back?
And going by your description jaje, it seems easier to remove the entire bumber since you had to pull it back anyway. Why did you decide not to remove it altogether?
Thanks for the pics and info guys. But I have one question. Was it not possible to completely remove the driver's side spalsh guard, instead of just peeling it back?
And going by your description jaje, it seems easier to remove the entire bumber since you had to pull it back anyway. Why did you decide not to remove it altogether?
only having to remove about 8 screws and pulling the bumper back is much easier and quicker than removing the whole bumper (which means the grill, both front sides of the wheel well splash shields, all bumper cover screws, clips and bolts, etc.)
the less you have to remove the less you have to reinstall = faster installation
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#8
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Originally posted by accsueprstar
lol you own your husband in the post category
j/k
lol you own your husband in the post category
j/k
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