I'm having a couple of problems that I'm hoping someone could help me with.

Last week I installed the Comptech short shifter and it performed great. Last night I installed the metal cable shifter bushings along with the aluminum shifter housing bushings. After installing them I took the car for a test drive and everything seemed great. Shifts were short and solid.

Well driving my car today there is a considerable amount of slop in the shifting, but only in gears 2, 4, 6, and R. 6th gear is especially bad. The 1, 3, and 5 shifts feel exactly like they had before, but when shifting into 2, 4, or 6 it goes into gear easily, but instead of getting the definitive "click" it feels really mushy and even once it's in gear there is a lot of fore/aft movement and some side to side play as well.

The only thing I can think of is maybe the short shifter came loose on the bottom of the stock shifter and it is causing the play, but it seems like there would be some play in all the gears instead of only the even numbered ones.

I just noticed this after I got to work today so I'll check things out when I get a chance, but I was hoping someone else may have experienced a similar problem and would be able to give me an easy fix.

 

I'd say it's worth checking the short shifter. Did you screw in the hex-key bolts on BOTH sides of the shifter extension? And did you make sure you had it wedged down as far as you possibly could before screwing it on? It takes some pressure to really get it on there good.

 

Sounds like the SS fell off or wasn't completely seated to begin with.

 

Thanks for the advice, that's what I figured happened, but I'll have to take everything apart again to confirm. I'll post my results in case anyone else comes across this problem in the future.

 

Also interested in the abovw Q's can sum one answer this thanks.

 

The bushings came with very basic installation instructions that did NOT include information about removing the stock intake. Try searching for intake installation and you should be able to find good instructions on this site. Once the stock resonator is out of the way installation is a breeze.

You can pick up some cotter pins at any auto parts/hardware store. I got a pack with about 15 different pins in various sizes at Autozone for under $2. The stock ones are junk so it's a worthwhile purchase.

 

Oops, sorry, I must have missed your post.

1. No, since the bushings are shared among other models, no instructions are provide on removing the intake. I would suggest searching on this site for intake install. Some people have posted steps to remove the stock intake tube.

2. Any auto parts stores will carry the cotter pins. Just bring the old one to match.

 

I removed the center console after I got home from work tonight and the short shifter is still securely attached. It seems that I broke the part (rod?) that connects to the bushing itself and each time I shift into an even gear it is bending rather than securely engaging the gear. I attached a photo below indicating the part that I broke. Could someone help me out with the part # (or even the actual name) of the part I need to replace?

 

I imagine that would be rather hard to break. I know that when I installed my bushings that peticular bushing was rather tough to install.

Moda_way would be able to hook you up with the necessary part info

 

Heh, not as hard as you would imagine.

When I was prying out the bushing my hand slipped and I pulled it up towards me and actually felt it bend, but wasn't sure if I had broken it or not. Guess I know now.

 

For everyone else's sake,
54310-SDA-L02 - $102 from Sunnyside Acura


It is an assembly of both shifter cables. No way to buy just the one.

 

If weather permits I will be doing the cable bushing install (along with my Injen CAI) over this holiday weekend. I need to stop by AutoZone and hopefully find some cotter pins, because I'd rather not use the ones the bushings come with if they are crap. I also need some of that grease.

I will let everyone know how it goes!

 

So I did this today. It was kind of a pain in the ass because I had a horribly hard time removing the OEM cotter pins. After that it wasn't bad. The bottom cable install went smoothly. As has been noted though, the top cable does not have room to use the OEM washers. As a result the cable has about 1/8" of "slack" where it can move left and right along the connector. Is this normal? I have the bushing and the C-clamp installed, and a cotter pin, but the cable has horizontal play to it.

I have noticed that shifting into 1st gear is not nearly as chukny and solid as it was before I did the bushings. Overall I notice no real difference other than 1st gear. If I could go back and have skipped this mod, I would. I kept the OEM bushings but I'm debating whether it's worth ripping out my CAI to get at the cables again.

Anyone have other suggestions to get rid of 1st gear's mushiness before I put the stock bushing back on the upper cable?

 

mine's not mushy, but I didn't really like the result. and I mutilated my bushing taking it out.

 

I love these bushings

 

Anyone else who's done this mod, and didn't use the washer on the smaller bushing (because it wouldn't fit) - did it leave slack on that bushing? Do you experience any loss of solidity shifting, particularly into first?

Looking for feedback here... really appreciate any.

 

Yes, I had to leave that end washer off. There is a little extra play, but made no difference what-so-ever in the solid feel, which I still have.

 

I'm actually sort of worried now, because this morning I had to re-try to get into 1st - much like many cars have you try R a second time to get in. And this is only occuring in 1st gear - 2 thru 6 are good to go. I'd be concerned at having bent one of the rods, like the previous poster, but wouldn't that affect more than one gear?

 

That happens in 1st as well. Just not as often as Reverse. Don't worry.

 

I guess I should've posted the results of my cable replacement earlier. The part that I broke (not bent) was actually a plastic sleeve that is underneath the rubber cover connecting to the larger bushing. This plastic sleeve has a ball on one end that allows it to pivot a slight bit while still keeping the cable straight.

What happened in my situation is that I broke this sleeve right at the bracket where the ball sits and it was no longer keeping my cable straight, making the 2, 4, 6, and R shifts very sloppy. I ended up replacing both shifter cables with no problems, even with no instructions.

It probably doesn't help you at all, but when I broke this piece I still had no trouble getting into 1st.

 

If you are concerned, we can meet up this weekend and I can take a look since I'm probably 10-15mins away from you.

 

I've decided to re-install the OEM bushings. I am just really not liking the feel of these metal ones. My shifter (Comptech SS, metal shifter housing bushings, Skunk2 knob) felt completely perfect to me before I did this mod, and I now really regret messing with a good thing. I just hope putting the OEM's back in fixes this.

 

That's a first I think I've seen. Someone going back out of dislike. I wonder if your cables are misaligned or if something else is broken.

 

I seriously hope not! I'll find out today... I'm going to take out from work a little early to get this done with daylight on my side. All I know is everything was perfect before I put the metal ones in - ideally, I did not bend/break anything during the installation, and putting the rubber bushings back in will restore everything to its once glorious state.

I don't like fishing for 1st gear. I also find that the shifter itself has more play, even while in gear, now.

 

I hope it fixes it. I've had this setup for a while and wouldn't trade it for anything. This sux you having the issue. Again, I hope nothing else is wrong. Good luck!!

 

Ok, I have good news, and I have bad news.

The good news is I think I know what's wrong with my setup.

The bad news is I don't know how to fix it.

I went to remove the metal bushings today. Starting with the top, smaller bushing, I removed the cotter pin and C clamp and found myself completely unable to budge the cable from the bushing. Then it hit me: I only lubed the pin when I initially installed them. I did not apply any lube to the outside of the bushings themselves, which are surrounded by the metal ring attached to the cable. The metal ring and the bushing appear to be locked together now. I was completely unable to seperate them. I'm stuck with the metal bushings.

Is there any possible way I can loosen them? And do you think this lack of lube is what's causing me problems in the first place?

As long as the car continues driving as it has been, I'm content to leave well enough alone. I just hope this won't lead to problems down the road.

 

whoa... I'd try some spray lube and see if you can remove the bushing to properly lube with grease.

Be warned though that if you are messy with the lube, you won't have any grip to hold on to the linkage with.

 

I'd try warming the assembly. We're 25 F here in Ohio and that is never good to pull metal apart. If that doesn't work, then try the lube.... not the reverse or you may find yourself in a real pinch.

 

If I get time this weekend, I may try to play with it. I'll have to pick up a hair dryer.

While I had the cotter pin off, I did lube and install the thinner (think almost white paper) bushing off the OEM top bushing. The thicker one wouldn't fit but I figure, it's better than nothing. I also lubed the pin again, where the slack on the cable would allow me to. Subsequent driving has left it feeling much better than it did before. I'd almost go as far as saying it's back to its old self - 1st gear is more solid again.

Do I really need to worry about lubing the bushings now? The mental picture I have of the cable motion doesn't have the bushings moving or rotating much if at all within the circular metal couplings. If there's not risk for damage I may leave it be.

 

The lube is totally necessary. Though you may not think the friction is anything, metal to metal wear gets loose over time as the bushings wear down. Next thing you know they are so loose you get more play. Just take the time to lube them up. Its worth it.

 

Do you have to have the short shifter to install the brushings? I want a better feeling when Im changing gears. Will this work? Thanks